Author Archives: antihero7

Isle Of Jura Boutique Barrels 1993 Review

Isle Of Jura Boutique Barrels 1993014

54% abv

Score:  89/100

 

Jura Vintage ’93.  Bottle says Sherry JI Cask Finish.  If anyone can share what the JI means…please do.

I have to confess right up front here.  I did read Serge’s of this whisky over at his site Whisky Fun.  Occasionally the power of suggestion can be overwhelming, and we find ourselves being subconsciously led without even really knowing what we’re following, let alone why.

Where I’m going with this one is…

Serge mentions raspberries, and I simply can’t wrap my head (or nose) around this one without being drawn back to that note.  It’s a very unique nuance, and incredibly defining in this whisky.  Not only that…it’s really quite lovely.  Kinda makes me marvel this isn’t a Speyside malt from one of the sherry heavyhitters.  Either way…I could drink this frequently.  Very frequently.

Big, big, big sweet Oloroso is stamped all over this one.  The effects of this sort of maturation or finishing on malts are often irresistable to me.  From the nose to the palate, these whiskies leave me salivating.  Other sherries work, of course, but Oloroso and single malt were meant to be together.  Bonnie and Clyde…Mickey and Mallory…Sid and Nancy.  That sort of story.  Each walked their own path through this world, but when they finally came together…nothing was the same afterwards.

Nose:   Sweet honeyed florals and a touch of dunnage.  Jammy notes.  Raspberry, by the buckets.  Quite some fresh fruit here.  Freshly ground dark roast.  Hay…like following the swather on the farm.  Match (but not sulphur), and maybe even a faint waft of smoke.

Palate:  Juicy, but slowly dries along the back sides of the tongue, like arid ground swallowing rain.  A lot of honey, and quite some spicy bourbon-ish notes.  Oak and barley follows all in a rather dry finale.  A little too hard a thump on the landing here.  Takes us into a dry herbal territory, not far off the finish of somethign like an anCnoc.  Would prefer a more refined ebb and fade, but beggars can’t be chosers.  This is a really good dram.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Isle Of Jura Mountain Of The Sound Review

Isle Of Jura Mountain Of The Sound085 (2)

46% abv

Score:  84/100

 

Hmmm…Cabernet Sauvignon wine finished single malts.  Not sure how to weigh in here in a politically correct manner, so let’s not even try.  These two libations, while often delicious in their own rights, are not good bedfellows.  There may be a correct balance to be struck between them, but in the few instances I’ve tried whiskies finished (matured?) in this manner the distillers have missed the mark.  Hate to generalize, but at this point I’m gonna go on record and say it really doesn’t work.

Having said that…I went into this whisky rather blindly.  Hadn’t read a label…seen a proper picture…or heard anything about the age/finish/strength/what have you.  I knew it was Jura, and one of three releases in the ‘Paps’ collection.  That’s really about it.

The paps, if you’re not fully aware, are the three peeks on Jura right near the Sound of Islay.  You can stare down their rather imposing physiques from the Northeast side of Islay, preferably with a dram of Caol Ila or Bunnahabhain in hand.  Trust me…I’ve done so a couple of times now.  ‘Paps’ is quite literally a reference to what you’d think it is.  Boobies.  Yep.  You’re smiling now, ain’tcha?

So…to recap:  limited release Jura…15 years old…finished in ex-Cabernet Sauvignon barrels.  I have to admit that what we ultimately end up with is not a bad whisky, it is simply outside my favored profiles (of which I have many).  Pick this one up (and the other two) for the story…for a neat range tasting…for a quirky offshoot from the Jura range, but do come in with eyes open that this is not typical of the distillery.

By the way…full disclosure:  I have not tried the other two in the series.  I’ve tasted this against other Juras, but not the Mountain Of Gold or The Sacred Mountain.

Found this on the Jura Info site:  “There has been many a dram fuelled discussion about the witch of Jura causing the deep glacial scar that runs down one fell.  And many debate whether it’s true that the Paps are the burial chambers of giant Norse warriors.”

Cool shit, huh?

Nose:  Oddly enough…buttery.  Fruity (yes…quite some grapes…and pepper!).  Salty tang.  Very vaguely, distantly, minutely, just hintingly lightly sweaty (but NOT in a bad way!).  More pepper and a bit of very fresh black tea.  Vanilla.  Gingerbread.

Palate:  Wine-ish.  Maybe some peat.  Can’t quite put my finger on it, but reminds me of another whisky I’ve tasted in the last couple of years.  Most probably a Bruichladdich of some sort.  Quite drying.  Puckers me a fair bit.  Also somewhat bitter, but mellows after some time.  In all honesty, that mellowing takes a fair bit of time.  Denouement into sugar cookies and fruit.  Very nice back end.  Again…salty, then into plum skins.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Isle Of Jura Superstition Review

Isle Of Jura Superstitiontoday 024

43% abv

Score:  83.5/100

 

This is sort of the ‘moderately peated’ Jura in the range.  The packaging says ‘lightly peated’, but I can’t help but wonder…is that simply based on acknowledging some of the ridiculous acrobatics of a few of the Islay heavyweights in recent years?  Not sure, but I believe this whisky has a legitimate claim to step up and declare itself a wee bit beefier than it’s letting on.  Hey…let’s face it…peat sells.  Ask Ardbeg.

Superstition is apparently a vatting of fiery young peated malt and some slightly older (though I’d be surprised if older than 12 or so) standard Jura.  Could be.  If so, it certainly integrates the two styles well.  I had assumed it was just a lid-level peating of the everyday Jura malt.

I’ve said it before, and will do so here again….these sort of entry level positioned Jura releases would benefit from bottling at a slightly higher abv.  Just seems a tad weak-ish when it comes to delivery.  Jura is still a wild, rugged and untamed island.  Let’s see some of that primeval might bottled in these releases, with which the distillery likes to play to some of the island’s lore.  (Do some research on Jura.  Neat stuff there and around).

If you dig this whisky, I would suggest taking the leap of faith and grabbing a bottle of Jura’s ‘profoundly peated’ Prophecy (their marketing, not my adjective prowess).  It’s most definitely a phenolic heavyweight, but not only the next logical step in the range, but also a damn fine dram in it’s own right.

Nose:  Malt-heavy and quite organic.  Some feinty new make notes still detectable, but that’s just the whisky showing its scrappiness, and shouldn’t much detract.  A mate said this was a peated version of the Origin (well…my words, his sentiments).  I see where he’s coming from, as some of the fruit melange and honey come through here, with a bit of a spicy and nutty character.  It does have a slightly old school vibe too.  I’d almost (I say ‘almost’…don’t crucify me) peg this as a w&M blend.

Palate:  Slightly off-kilter (but no more so than many of the rather charming oddballs that come out of Bruichladdich), though fruity and pleasant.  Somewhat slightly grassy.  Some of those young feisty feint notes here as well.  Not quite as good as the nose, but quite drinkable with a lot of individual character.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Isle Of Jura Boutique Barrels 1996 Review

Isle Of Jura Boutique Barrels 1996086

56.5% abv

Score:  90/100

 

Yes!  Here we go.  A Jura to seriously build a long-lasting relationship to the distillery with.

Jura and I never really cozied up together at first.  I found ‘er to be a little snarky and unpleasant.  She probably found me somewhat aloof and stand-offish…maybe even snobby.

We’re working on it though, and day by day (ahem…dram by dram) putting our differences behind us.  Let’s not call it love yet, but we’re certainly ‘in like’.  A very pleasant experience with a 25 year old Jura while touring Islay a few months back helped.  A recent bout of make-up sex with the 10 y.o. Origin moved us closer still.  And finally…a revisiting of the heavily peated Prophecy (of which I am a fan) brought me to the point of being ready to sit down and work things out.

This 1996 Boutique Barrels expression was one eighth of a recent Jura tasting I and a mate did.  It was a top three finisher of the eve.  Being as I believe this one is still relatively accessible on the open market, it seemed a great time to share a few thoughts on what is a rather impressive outing from Jura.

This range of Jura releases is exciting in that it is taking the distillery away from the generally low strength standard releases they are more famously known for, and throwing them up against the heavyweights out there already acquiescing to discerning consumer demand for stronger, better and craft presentation.  Not only are they now playing along…they’re viable and earning accolades.  Rightfully so.

Good whisky.  Good presentation.

Nose:  Slightly synthetic sweetness, but very pleasant.  VERY pleasant.  Some peach and other fruits.  York mint patties.  Nice spices…cinnamon, nutmeg.  Not far off some of those Amrut profile zestynotes.  Some rising bread dough.  Glue/putty/fluor paste.  Stewed tomato.  Very cool…very singular nose.

Palate:  Quite some peach again.  Pepper.  A lot of sweet and spicy vanilla notes.  Fresh vanilla pod.  Stays juicy through full development.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Isle Of Jura 10 y.o. Origin Review

Isle Of Jura 10 y.o. Origin

40% abv

Score:  84.5/100

 

Oh my.  What the heck has Jura done?  A few years back I scored Jura 10 in the low 70s.  Fast forward a year or two, and a revisit showed some marked improvement.  Less heavy-handed on the nutty, malty, oakiness.  A little bigger on sweetness and balance.  Think I had it up around 79 points.  Now…yet another couple years on…here I sit, enjoying a nice dish of crow.  After all the less than stellar things I’ve said about this dram in the past, I have to switch allegiances and admit that it is now at a standard where I would unequivocably recommend on to others.

Yes, of course it is still an entry level malt, but it really is a tasty one.  From failing grades to flying colors, in other words.  Not sure what they’ve done, but my immediate thoughts are a tweak to the spirit cut itself and better wood management.

Much like some of the other malts from the Whyte and Mackay portfolio, this one suffers from too little horsepower.  In this day and age of fierce competition and a seemingly never ending whisky boom, 40% seems like an archaic stance.  Other distilleries have taken note.  Time for Jura to embrace the new minimum standard; 46%…NCF…nae color.  I’m not a stickler over color, but the first two…yes, please.

Either way…we like.  We are now fans.

To me, in earlier incarnations, this malt always seemed over-oaked, yet not mature.  Almost counter-intuitive.  Nice to see the wood being held in check and a nice balance found.  Well done, Diurachs.  A ‘most improved’, for sure.

Nose:  Malty and salty.  Caramel and toffee notes.  Something akin to a young-ish Bunnahabhain.  Honey and orange.  Still some rather youthful (and kinda feinty) notes, but this is, relatively speaking, a young malt.  Candy fruitiness.  Thick veins of vanilla.  Home made playdough (think salty dough).

Palate:  Nutty.  Plastic and waxy.  Slightly drying with a peppery nip.  Some fruitiness, but indistinguishable really.  Imagine a fruit cocktail in syrup thrown in the blender to become a homogenous…BUT NICE…fruit puree.  What’s in it?  Dunno.  Do I like?  You bet.  Grapefruit pith at the end.  Very slightly drying.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Finlaggan Old Islay Reserve Cask Strength Review

Finlaggan Old Islay Reserve Cask Strength

58% abv

Score:  86.5/100

 

Here we have another of those non-designatory malts from Islay.  No indications are given, and certainly none are forthcoming, as to just which Islay distillery is ultimately responsible for the production of this rather tasty cask strength smoke bomb.

The most credible sources I can find seem to suggest this is Caol Ila masquerading as something other than its usual pristine delicate self.  Hmmm.  Could be.  Wasn’t my first guess, but I’ve tried enough indies and odd Caol Ila expressions to see just how chameleonic this distillery can be.  Let’s just assume, for now, that this is indeed Caol Ila.  The strongest argument in favor of this being the case is that the other three distilleries you may be more inclined to guess first  (Lagavulin, Laphroaig and Ardbeg) are running very nearly all distillate into their own expressions and can barely keep up with global demand.  I’m not sure parsing off some of their precious make into another line (guaranteed to sell less than what they already do under their own various labels) would make much sense.

Not trying to be obtuse here or anything, but these unspecified malts are rather pointless, in my humble opinion.  I’ll still drink ’em.  I’ll still like ’em.  But for the life of me I don’t get the rationale for hiding the lineage.  If you believe it is good enough to bottle and sell, you should also believe it is good enough to have your name on it.  Maybe that’s just me, so let’s move on.

This is a young-ish, and very strong, Islay single malt, taking its name from the historic seat of the Lord Of The Isles on Islay.  I’m guessing the whisky itself is maybe 7 or 8 years on.  It is bigger than big, and much better than I’d hoped for.  I really quite like this, and being as I don’t see it ’round locally anymore, sort of regretting not putting one or two aside for that preoverbial rainy day.

Nose:  Huge Smoke and eye-burning iodine.  Peat and pasture.  Shredded Wheat.  Some sweet salt water toffee.  Chocolate and gooseberry.  Great nose that is very typical of a young Islay cask strength whisky.

Palate:  Tarry and oily.  Smoky and peaty.  Anise and some strong medicinal characteristics.  Slightly nutty.  A lot of heat, not dissimilar to a Caol Ila Natural Cask Strength OB I have.  Credence to the rumours perhaps.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

BenRiach 21 y.o. Authenticus Review

BenRiach 21 y.o. Authenticus

46% abv

Score:  88.5/100

 

Man…so delinquent in getting this review done.  I believe the new BenRiach Authenticus is now being packaged as a 25 year old whisky.  This 21 year old no longer exists as a retail option.

So many whiskies…so little time. 

Anyways…chances are you may still be able to track down a bottle or two of this BenRiach if you’re diligent and keep your eyes peeled.  That ‘thrill of the hunt’ is part of the game, isn’t it?  Every little cornershop ‘ma and pa’ liquor hawker potentially has some yet-unsold gems from yesteryear gathering dust at the back of the shop, right?  This would be a great find.  Especially considering the price was more than fair for a quality dram of this age.

While this 21 year old Authenticus was undoubtedly more affordable than the newer edition, I have no doubts BenRiach will have upped the ante in terms of quality as well price with the 25 year old.  That really is saying something, as the release I am focusing on herein was really quite stellar.  Aged BenRiach meets peat.  How can that not be a winning combination?

I was prepared for a dram both fruity and smoky.  What I wasn’t prepared for however, was such an incredibly farmy nose and depth of iodine.  Very interesting, and certainly adds a unique dimension to this one.  Deeply iodine-rich peat is generally a very coastal, or Islay, characteristic.  It comes from the brininess in the decaying vegetation that makes up the bulk of the composition of the peat (think seaweed and saltwater drenched coastal foliage).  More mainland peat tends to have a heathery, slightly meadowy note to it…softer on the medicinal edges.  Goes to show…there’s always going to be some wonderful unpredictability in our water of life. 

Nose:  Heavily farmy.  Leather and horse stables.  Hay bales.  Peat and smoke.  Iodine.  Damp earth.  Oaky and aging.  Mellow…very mellow notes of tropical fruits.  Simply enormous peat reek and billows of smoke for a 21 y.o.

Palate:  Gummy.  Peat and pepper.  Again…very barnyard-ish, in a good way.  You’ll be coughing smoke rings for hours.  Dried fruits…or maybe just the skins and peels.  Mouth puckeringly drying and bittering.  A little age showing…and that’s a good thing.

 

Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Highland Park Earl Haakon Review

Highland Park Earl Haakonbarry's place pics 090

54.9% abv

Score:  91.5/100

 

Third of the Magnus series.  18 y.o. from 2011.  Limited to 3,300 bottles.

Concluding the saga…

The final chapter of the Magnus series by Highland Park.  Here  we have an 18 year old release, and wow, did this one stir up some consternation.  HP released the Earl Magnus expression in a limited run of 5,976 bottles.  The follow-up was Saint Magnus at 11,994 bottles.  Now, here we are with the third, and final, edition in the series, released in a run of 3,300 bottles.

Yep…you can see where I’m going with this.

So…first release does ok.  More than ok actually.  It sells out quickly, with quite some buzz behind it.  Time for edition two…let’s make more this time around.  Double it maybe!  Well…doubling the batch worked well.  All ~12,000 or so sold out.  Happy guys (and gals) at Highland Park, I would imagine.  Alright…let’s close out this story with a lovely 18 year old and release…a third as many bottles as we did with the second release!  Great idea!  Wait…what?

I saw a video with Highland Park brand ambassador, Gerry Tosh, explaining this very issue, wherein he acknowledged that they upset some people with this release.  He said it was a mistake.  They made too little and realized too late.  Hmmmm.  I don’t buy it.  This distillery produces lots of 18 year old whisky.  There is no reason they couldn’t have vatted another handful of casks in to beef up the production run.

I think there’s more to this one that we’re hearing.  Egregious error in judgement either way, I’d say, when you upset that many collectors and loyal fans.  The worst part of it?  This release is the best of the bunch.  Ok…maybe that is the second worst part of it.  The worst might be the price jacking we saw with this one.  Ouch.

Anyway…enough grousing about what is, in all honesty, one of my favorite brands.  I am a big fan of this distillery.

This particular whisky, Earl Haakon, is a rather exceptional 18 year old, full of beautiful depth and a wide bouquet of sensory treats.  As with the others in the range, this is a big, bold cask strength whisky, rather typical of the Highland Park profile, if not necessarily typical of their usual method of delivery (here we have it natural…cask strength…nekkid…novel).

The story of these ‘Magnus Series’ releases can be found in the review for the Earl Magnus.  I won’t deign to repeat myself and bore you again.  You’re only here for the tasting notes, right?

Nose:  Dusty, but sweet and sexy.  Very big honey notes.  Orange.  Smoke.  Lovely mature peats.  Some dusty grain silo.  Old leather gloves.  Back to honey and cherries.  Wow…what a great nose!

Palate:  Sweet honeyed fruits.  Gawd!…really, really nice fruits.  Maybe slightly orange-heavy.  Some smoke and coal.  A bite of pepper and clove.  Anise.  Graham cracker.  Very nice finish, long on smoked granny smith apple skins and honeyed barley.

 

– Reviewed:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Highland Park Saint Magnus Review

Highland Park Saint Magnus088

55% abv

Score:  88.5/100

 

Second of the Magnus series.  12 y.o. from 2010.  Limited to 11,994 bottles.

Here we have the second release in the Magnus series, following on the success of 2009’s Earl Magnus.  For this edition, we’re looking at a slightly younger malt than that edition, clocking in at a mere 12 years (possibly plus an older cask or two in there for good measure).  The first release was 15+ years old.  Seems like a slightly illogical succession, especially seeing as how the third in the series was an 18 year old.  Hmmmm.

In following the Magnus tale, at this point our hero had taken an axe to the noggin, met his maker and been canonized.  And now, Sainthood seeming to suit Magnus just fine, we find ourselves curled up with a bottle of Highland Park’s 2010 follow-up release…Saint Magnus.  I provided the history lesson in the review for the previous release, Earl Magnus, so let’s skip on ahead to the whisky itself. 

I like this whisky.  I don’t, however, like it as much as I did the Earl Magnus.  I’d venture further to say it is certainly the least spectacular of the three.  What you’ll find here is a much dirtier drink.  More ‘workingman’, by nature.  That, in and of itself, is not a bad thing, but it simply doesn’t seem to have the refinement of the others in the range.  As contrary as this may sound…it is the right selection for the series though.  I simply would have released this one to the market before the other two.

Nose:  This is a maltier and meatier dram than Earl Magnus.  Typical Highland Park flares of honey.  The other HP hallmark, heather floral notes, is quite dialed back.  Some pepper and a hint of matchstick.  Smoky and slightly earthy or peaty.  A bit of mildly vinegary bbq sauce (perhaps this ties back to the olfacory meaty connections I am drawing).

Palate:  Very much in line with what I would expect based on the nose.  Barley.  Very dry smoke and peat.  Certainly the most old school of the three.  Quite reminds me of an older style blend.  Organic and natural in its development.  Quite long on the grains as it fades.

I should note here…they essentially doubled the production run on this one.  I note this as it will be a talking point in the write-up for the third edition, Earl Haakon. 

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Highland Park Earl Magnus Review

Highland Park Earl Magnus

52.6% abv

Score:  90.5/100

 

First of the Magnus series.  15 y.o. from 2009.  Limited to 5,976 bottles.

Some history from the packaging:

Earl Magnus Erlendsson was born in 1075 when the Orkney Islands belonged to Norway. His Viking ancestors were terrifying warriors whose code of heroism, hatred and honour through vengeance framed their brutal lives. Into this world came Magnus, a man unlike any other Orkney Earl, spreading Christianity.

The peace-loving Magnus was unlike his cousin Haakon who remained imbued with the fighting spirit. Haakon was envious and ambitious, striving for self-glory. Their history is a classic tale of the struggle of good versus evil; the treachery and tragedy of the life of Earl Magnus accounts for his prominence in northern literature.

Magnus reigned jointly with his cousin Haakon from 1108 until 1115 when their followers fell out. Peace was negotiated and the Earls agreed to meet bringing only two ships each. The treacherous Haakon arrived with eight ships and captured his saintly cousin. The Norwegian chieftains decided that one of the Earls must die. After the refusal of his standard-bearer to undertake the task, Haakon ordered his cook to kill Magnus which he did by striking him on the head with an axe.

The life of Magnus is celebrated in two Icelandic Sagas and in the Orkneyinga Saga; he was buried where he died and legend has it the rocky area around the site immediately became a green field.

The fame of Magnus, canonized only 20 years after his death, has been maintained by the stunning cathedral built by his nephew in Kirkwall; St Magnus Cathedral was referred to as ‘incontestably the most glorious monument of the Norwegian dominion to be found in Scotland’ by J. Moodie Heddle, Orkney and Shetland, 1920.

Work began in 1137 and continued over several hundred years. In 1917 a secret cavity was found in one of the columns; in it was a box containing ancient bones including an axe-wounded skull. The influence of Earl Magnus spread far and wide; the forename became popular in Orkney, notably in the case of Magnus Eunson, a man forever associated with the founding of Highland Park distillery in 1798.

 

A little late, but please forgive the long-winded nature of this review.  There is simply too much to compress.

Starting in 2009, Highland Park began releasing the ‘Magnus Series’.  These were young-ish whiskies (between 12 and 18 years, depending on the edition) that were bottled at cask strength in snazzy old school packaging.  The bottle itself is a tribute to days of yore. It replicates the hand blown flawed vessels of the 1800s. It leans, it is bubbled and it is perfectly imperfect. The bottle comes packaged in a hinged wooden frame and sports a suitably archaic-looking label. Stunning visually.

But…here the foray into times of replication comes to an end.  The whisky itself is a fairly contemporary dram, really.  Nothing of the more raw nature I’d expect in an attempt to recreate an old school style of malt.  Having said that…I don’t believe Highland Park intended to create any sort of profile that was an homage to the past.  They wanted to play to marketing and simply release a fine dram.  And they succeeded.

Highland Park brand ambassador, Gerry Tosh, referred to this as being 15 years old, but with some older whiskies in it as well.  Not surprised.  There is a hefty bit of fruit here that I would associate with a few more years in the cask.  Either way…nice bit of cask selection and vatting by our friends at Highland Park.  They’ve created something unique, but still comfortable and recognizable in their stables.

At 52.6% abv this whisky is hefty, but surprisingly mellow.  Nice sipper with a great delivery and very pleasant lift and denouement.

Nose:  Honeyed and floral.  Cowsheds.  Pepper.  A touch of cherry.  A little of both orange and lemon.  Dry smoke…like burning fields.  Herbal and meadowy.  Lovely and quite a bit fruitier than I would have expected from Highland Park at this age.

Palate:  Farmy right off.  Some smoke and apple notes.  Sweet arrival, slightly creamy, then bittering just a bit.  Dries to the sides of the back of the tongue.  Nice sipper, if not as in depth as the nuances on the nose would hint at.

Limited edition.  If you didn’t get one right away…you probably won’t.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt