Category Archives: Whisky Reviews & Tasting Notes

Amrut…Secrets Of The East

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Amrut…Secrets Of The East

One night, not so long ago, a secret conclave of some of the world’s greatest minds gathered to discuss the secrets of the Far East…

This insufferable bunch of mad geniuses was led by mystic guru, Jonathan Bray, on a flight of spectacular design.  Though some secrets are meant to kept…some are meant to be shared amongst a few of the more esoteric and learned among us.

Welcome to the inner circle.

From the majesty of the Himalayas to the monument of the Taj Mahal.  From the birth of four of the world’s major religions to the rise of the Kama Sutra (pun intended).  From the Ramayana to all of the stunning Hindu deity statuary.  From the eye-meltingly beautiful Tabu to the irrascible charm of Apu Nahasapeemapetilon.  India’s contributions to all that we love simply cannot go unrecognized.  And now…whisky.

To me there is simply no other distillery as exciting as Amrut.  Over the past few years they have ratcheted it up to a level of quality and innovation far surpassing almost all of their Scottish contemporaries.  Not content to simply find a winning recipe and stick with it, the folks at Amrut have repeatedly shattered preconceptions by releasing one glorious expression after another.  Fusion, Intermediate Sherry, Portonova, Two Continents, etc.  Each retaining the distillery’s characteristic spicy and doughy, orange and chocolate backbone but dressed up in its own shimmeringly expressive elegance.

When the opportunity arose to host Jonathan Bray at my place and have him roll out some of these whiskies for The Collective’s benefit, it was a chance to jump at.  We gathered…we learned…we drank…then, well…some things are best left unsaid.

First up…we started with a wee glass of Old Port Deluxe rum, Amrut’s contribution to the ‘cane crowd.  Not being a rum guy, it was tough to really get my teeth into this one, but as an educational experience…s’alright.  From there straight into a couple of quirky as hell cask samples.  Not even whisky these, and in one oddly green-tinged case, an absolutely mindboggling concoction.  Curiouser and curiouser.  None of us, no matter our level of experience could come even close to pegging these ones.  The thing is…Amrut does so many unique things you simply don’t know where to begin.

At this point, we began lining up the real stars of the evening.  The single malts.  Jonathan led us through the range while revealing nifty little tidbits about the distillery and sharing some wicked little anecdotes.

This was not just a virtual tour of one of the world’s great distilleries.  This was an immersion into Amrut.

 

A final note:  We sampled seven malts from Amrut on this night.  I have taken the liberty of including a couple extras; for no other reason than to let you see the depth and breadth of this marvel of the East.

Enjoy.

 

Amrut Single Malt

46% abv

70/30 ex-bourbon/virgin oak

Nose:  Doughy.  Barley.  Sweet mild nutmeg.  Cocoa powder.  Orange rind.  Spices grow.

Palate:  Chocolate.  Barley.  Creamy.  Still slightly grainish.  Slightly firey and youngish…but not underdeveloped.

Thoughts & Impressions:  What a brilliant entry level malt.  If only all distillery’s had a flagship like this.

Amrut Two Continents

50% abv

Matured in India and Scotland

Nose:  Cherry.  Spices (cinnamon?).  Vanilla.  Chocolate.  Mint.  Honey.  Dough.  Lime.  Baking spices.  Hot cross buns.  Exotic dried fruits.

Palate:  Hot chocolate.  Zest.  Cinnamon.  Cereal…maybe cream of wheat.

Thoughts & Impressions:  Integration.  Such flawless integration.  Simple but at the same time so complex.  Love this malt.

 

Amrut Herald

60.8% abv

Nose:  Typical Amrut spice profile.  Creamy.  Almond.  Swiss milk chocolate.  Raspberry.  Botanicals.  Vanilla.  Spruce tree.  Yellow sugars.  Lime.

Palate:  Cinnamon and almost rum notes.  Deep ribbons of chocolate.  Sweet.

Thoughts & Impressions:  “It’s not fighting me” – Gord.  Couldn’t a said it better m’self.

Amrut Kadhambam

50% abv

Kadhambam means ‘mixture’:  Rum, sherry and brandy casks

Nose:  Marzipan.  Melon.  Cantaloupe.  Zippy.  Cocoa.  “Amrut” (yes…that is now a flavor profile).  Cinnamon, nutmeg and clove.  Grape.  Spicy bread.

Palate:  Apple.  Bread.  Gorgeous delivery and smooth development here.

Thoughts & Impressions:  Great nose, but phenomenal palate.  The way this one unfolds is magic.

 

Amrut Intermediate Sherry

57.1% abv

Ex-bourbon into Oloroso into ex-bourbon.  Sandwich maturation. 

Nose:  Beautiful Oloroso sweetness.  Raw bread dough.  Orange zest and cherry.  Cocoa shavings.  Amrut spice melange…particularly nutmeg.  Wee bits of eucalyptus.

Palate:  Warm chocolate.  Orange notes.  Spicy and sweet sherry juiciness.

Thoughts & Impressions:  One of the absolute highlights of the Amrut range.  This is a stunner.  Pure and simple.

 

Amrut Portonova

62.1% abv

Nose:  Blood orange.  Milk chocolate.  Tiniest bit of tart fig.  Dark, over-ripe fruits.  Heavy black cherry.  Sugar cookie.  Creamy sweetness.  Raspberry puree.

Palate:  Delivery is pure melted chocolate.  Foreign spice market.  Biscuit or raisin scone.  Freshly zested orange.  Raspberry jam here too.

Thoughts & Impressions:  Perfect balance and an absolute explosion on the tongue.  Head-to-head with the Intermediate as my favorite in the Amrut range.

Amrut Double Cask

46% abv

7…almost 8 years old. 

Nose:  Root beer.  Cinnamon.  Ginger.  Grapefruit zest.  Bourbon.  Caramel.  Doughy cinnamon bun.  Pepper.  Apple.

Palate:  Creamy.  Sweet cherry.  A little more oak here.

Thoughts & Impressions:  One of the more unique, while not necessarily eye-popping, of the bunch.  Again, dear Amrut…why aren’t you in general release?

 

Amrut Fusion

50% abv

Nose:  Peat.  clove and cocoa.  Typical orange-ish notes.  Smoked meat-ish.  Thick dense fruitcake.

Palate:  Right back to zippy!  Marmalade and cacao bean.  Peat.  Tightens up and contracts with a bit of drying tartness.

Thoughts & impressions:  A rather preferred malt o’ mine puts in a rather underwhelming showing in this lineup.  Great nevertheless, but…not quite on par with the sweet awesomeness that came before.

Amrut 100

57.1% abv

100l barrels…57.1 is the old British 100 proof…100cL bottles…100 bottles per country…

Nose:  Peat.  Sherry and cherry.  Farmy.  Iodine.  Briney.  Glossette chocolate covered raisin.  Heavy/dense mincemeat.  Sweet cookie notes punch their way through the peat and smoke.

Palate:  Bittersweet chocolate.  High content cocoa.  Anise.  Tannic.  Peat.

Thoughts & impressions:  “That’s got some sh*t goin’ on.” – Jay.  Makes me harken back to BenRiach Solstice.  Is this port-finished?  Nope…jus’ bourbon.  Fruity and awesome.  Peat meets sweet.  Wish this was readily available.

 

Amrut Cask Strength Peated

62.8% abv

100% Scottish barley

Nose:  Peat.  Iodine.  Smoke.  Fruits.  Earthy.  Orange.  Ocean water.  Strawberry.  Mint.  Chocolate.  Dough.

Palate:  Greens and spiced chocolate.  Orange zest.  Smoky.  Heavily smoked barley.

Thoughts & Impressions:  Neat to see such a heft of smoke and peat backing those definitive Amrut flavors.  While I prefer the sweeter end of the spectrum from this distillery, this is great.

Thanks, Jonathan.  Appreciate your coming out, sharing, enlightening and entertaining.  These nights are always a blast when venture down South.

Slainte!

 

– Words and tasting notes:  Curt (with some help from The Collective)

– Photos:  Curt

Bowmore 1972 (Signatory) Review

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Bowmore 1972 (Signatory)

45.4% abv

Overall:  93/100

 

The mystique that surrounds Bowmore is like that of the Macallan.  There is an age-old reputation, bucketloads of history and rumors of magic that surround this whisky from Islay’s oldest distillery.  Much like the Macallan, I find that younger (or perhaps ‘more current’ would be a better choice of words) bottlings of Bowmore are simply not up to much, and certainly do not support the reputation that this distillery rests on.  Veteran drammers insist that older vintages were astounding.

So…if we want to scrape aside the scree and see a little more of the bedrock that Bowmore has been built upon exactly how far back to we have to go?  Unfortunately I can’t tell you that.  I can tell you however, that I had to double the age of the oldest Bowmore I had tried to date in order to find the one that put a spell on me.  This 1972 Signatory independent bottling was 36 years old at the time of decanting.  This…this is not the Bowmore that the younger generation of malt fiends know.

Here age and beauty waltz like old lovers and make something magical happen.  This is like looking back in time and seeing how stunningly beautiful some of the aged Hollywood starlets are that many of us young’uns (relatively speaking) only know in their twilight years.  This is class.  This is elegance.

The nose delivers chocolate, drying fruit, a little orange zest and a touch of lemon pepper.  Vanilla and butter toffee, a touch of aloe, a whiff of smoke and light brine.  I sat with my nose in the glass for about 40 minutes before my first taste, simply unable to believe this was the same distillery that produces the Bowmore expressions that hit the shelves nowadays.

The arrival is silky smooth and the development is as crystalline and unmarred as a lake surface on a windless day.  (My wife sipped without grimace…that is saying something).  First flavors are toasted wood and dry smoke.  Soft chocolate and raisin are next and the citrus develops a little more boldness in peeking out towards the end.  The lingering notes however, are primarily toffee and lightly toasted oak.  Thankfully these notes are the kind that stay ’til the party’s end, and even then you are sad to close the door behind them.

Andrew Ferguson, From Kensington Wine Market, who graciously provided this sample, told me he refers to this as the ‘poor man’s Black Bowmore’.  Hm.  Not far off really.  The Black Bowmore is still untouchable, in my books, but I’ll take this as a substitute anyday.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Shamelessly cribbed from The Whisky Exchange

Port Charlotte An Turas Mor Review

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Port Charlotte An Turas Mor

46% abv

Score:  86.5/100

 

This is actually a tough one for me.  I adore Port Charlotte in all its tongue scalding peat-infused cask strength glory.  The first time PC6 melted my face I thought I had died and gone to heaven (or hell…pretty sure that toasty little locale will be more to my liking anyway).  PC5, PC7 and PC8 were all delectible little fireballs in their own right.

So why then, with a new Port Charlotte in my glass, am I suggesting this is a tough one?  Quite simply because it has been gelded.

I want to be explicitly clear here.  This is still a damn fine drink.  It has all the characteristics that make Port Charlotte infinitely enjoyable.  It is peaty and smoky…buttery, citric and salty…carries a bit of youthful fruit and a load of licorice.  And too…it practically screams Islay.  The problem is…I have a punching bag of a palate.  I love bold strokes of flavor and rich depths in what I consume; be it food, coffee, beer, wine or whisky.  I taste this PC and can’t help but compare it to the big guns in the range.

Having said all of that…for those that take a little more civility in the glass, while still embracing the stormy ferocity of Islay malts…this one is a gooder.

Farmy notes of cowsheds.  Iodine.  Peat and smoke.  Faintly buttery and vaguely medicinal.  A ghostly trace of mixed berry.  Lemon.  Licorice.  Barley.  Swirl gently and…voila!

If you can find (and afford) the cask strength vintages in the PC family, I would nudge you in that direction.  If not…you’re still in for a treat with this one.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Springbank 10 y.o. Review

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Springbank 10 y.o.

46% abv

Score:  87/100

 

Holy hell, this is a monster.  An absolute old school powerhouse of malt that I think may still be fermenting on the way down.  This whisky is deep enough to explore for hours.  Cavernous and complex, it serves up a veritable feast of scents and flavors.  I would strongly recommend taking your time here and slowly becoming acquainted with this young Springbank.

The nose on this dram is freakin’ enormous. Right off there is a sour malt punch backed up by a smoky peat cloud. Then the mishmash of scents start coming from all angles here. There is a salty meatiness, game-y really, that is met with pungent spice and maybe something like smoked fish. A sharp attack from somewhere that seems sort of citric…but not. (Sorry!?!)

The tongue gets a working over too.  Malt, malt and more malt are delivered in waves.  It is salty, peppery and drying.  The oily viscosity of this malt helps it linger for hours.  When I finally got my head wrapped ’round the enormity of this Cambeltown gem…I was completely surprised to find I was left with hints of gentle oak, juicy fruits (citric…rinds and pith) and…less surprising…smoky malted barley.

This is a whisky of backbone and character.  Absolutely amazing and unique.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Springbank Claret Wood Review

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Springbank Claret Wood

54.4% abv

Score:  90.5/100

 

A brief introduction to the Springbank Distillery:

Springbank, one of only three distilleries in Campbeltown, is renowned for its independence and tradition.  All aspects of whisky production – from malting through bottling – are done at the distillery in Campbeltown.

Springbank have never chill filtered, nor colored, their whisky.  Interesting to note as well, that the Springbank Distillery produces, by various methods, three distinct single malts (Hazelburn, Longrow and of course, Springbank).

At one time there were more than 30 legal distilleries in Cambeltown.  Sadly, that number has dwindled to three.  On a positive note however, the Springbank family are doing things to make themselves stand out.  Their fierce independence and traditional methods are heroically admirable in an age of increased automation.  Technique and old world morality mean less than nothing though if the whisky is not up to scratch.  I am happy to say that is nowhere near the case with Springbank.

This particular whisky has moved around a wee bit throughout the course of its maturation.  Born in the stills of Springbank, it was casked for 7 years in bourbon, moved to claret (bourdeaux) casks for 3 years, then into sherry wood for 2 more before finally finding a home in the bottle.  And just as I find that someone well-traveled is often a much more rounded individual, this whisky seems to have greatly benefited form its nomadic existence.

The years in wood have been very kind, imparting a beautiful deep mahogany hue.  Those with a bent to the aesthetic in their whisky will certainly admire this in the glass.  Sexy.

Those with a more…utilitarian approach will be tickled pink at the 54.4% abv, and hefty mouth feel.  It is uber-rich and oily with a beautiful coating quality.

The nose is sweet and redolent of caramel toffee, chocolate and vanilla well met with some smoke and spicy peppers.  There is a bit of fruit, predominantly apple, as well.  Beautiful, really.

The palate is more than pleasing, but can’t quite meet the expectations set by the nose.  The smoke and sweetness are still apparent, and pushed to the forefront through the heavy alcohol.  Delicious, if not quite up to its olfactory counterpart.

One of the great releases in the Springbank line.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Bushmills 10 y.o. Review

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Bushmills 10 y.o.

40% abv

Score:  84/100

 

Not my favorite Bushmills, but a solid addition to range nonetheless.  This one takes the sweet caramel barley of the Original, but amps it up with bucketloads of wine-y fruits.  Expect a little dust and oak over deep purple grape and mildest sherry.  There is a bittering berry in there as well, but notes of butter-rich milk chocolate smooth it out and remind of Cadbury’s Fruit & Nut.  The grains at this age are still singing like a plucked piano string, and ten years in oak doesn’t seem to have taken much of the edge off.  Not a bad thing however, just a little sharper than I had expected.

The real beauty of Irish triple distillation is how much it strips the spirit down to purity and allows the barley to take center stage.  This is the heart of a whisky…why shouldn’t it play the star?  Hints of citrus zest round out the nose.

The palate delivers tart dark fruit skin (again…think purple grape) that morphs into apple skin towards the back end of development.  Before we get there though, soft orange fruits and creamy caramel light up the taste buds.

As I hinted at, there are several better Bushmills expressions out there, but the unique character of this one makes it worthwhile if you like your Irish.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Bushmills Original Review

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Bushmills Original

40% abv

Score:  84.5/100

 

This revered old chap will always hold a special place in my heart and a place on my whisky shelf. This is where it began for me. The first whiskey I fell in love with. I’ve climbed mountains with it and drank it on my wedding day. I’ve been sick on it and been more than well on it. I truly cannot remember a time when there wasn’t at least a couple different Bushmills bottles in my cabinet.

So what makes it so special? Well…to be honest…nothing really. It is rather typical Irish fare. Light and clean, fruity and grainy.

It is also utterly delicious, and its simple drinkability is where so much of its charm is wrought.

The nose projects sweet caramel barley and smooth subtle nuances of rye or mild bourbon. The delivery is as smooth as a mature Canadian rye. The notes you’d expect based on this are front and center: Mild vanillins, soft and gentle spices and sweet orchard fruit. Primarily peaches. Chewy as hell and nifty to note that while certainly young and clean…it carries flavor notes of something a little older than its years.

Even at a slight 40% abv and chill-filtered, the finish is pleasantly sustained. As the whiskey limps to a slow death on the palate, the final throbbing notes are of a caramel fade and crunchy apple.

Charming, approachable and affordable. The great news is there are all sorts of places to go from here in the Bushmills range. Next? Most likely the Black Bush.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Johnnie Walker Red Label Review

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Johnnie Walker Red Label169

40% abv

Score:  70/100

 

A blend can absolutely sparkle.  Think about it.  A good master blender is able to create his whisky much as a jeweller creates a ring.  He is able, as his whim dictates, to position a selection of malts in a setting of soft or hard grains to create something truly magnificent.  The sky is the limit really.  Components are hand-picked from a multitude of distilleries and married in an attempt to bring to life the blender’s vision.

A case in point, Johnnie Walker Red Label is a blend comprised of about 35 malts and grains.  Generally in a blend such as this the grains are used to prop up the malts, where most of the character comes from.  Logically one would assume that, like diamonds in the center of the setting, the primary malts would stand out in beautiful relief.  So, do the malts sparkle here?

Unfiortunately…not even a little.  This whisky is drab, lifeless and uninspired.  I hate to say it, but JW Red is the reason that blended whiskies get a bad name.  Unfair, really, as there are some exceptional blends out there.  Some of which are even in the Johnnie Walker line.

Surprisingly, the nose on the Red Label is actually agressive at first.  It smells young and raw.  I would strongly advise letting it rest for 15 minutes or so before touching it, and can guarantee you’ll be smelling an entirely different whisky at this point.  The nose is chalk full of cereal notes and harsh grains.  There is a pungent peatiness which I truly did not expect in here.  It really doesn’t seem to fit.  A few other notes dance among the grains.  Notably, a burnt toffee or caramel and some rather tart fruits.

First sips reveal really brittle grains and cloying peat.  There is a certain vegetal weediness tied to these earthy notes, which is only slightly softened by a bit of vanilla.  It tastes a little better than the nose would lead you to believe, but by no means is it a stand alone drink.  As a mixer…perhaps.  I don’t really drink mixed whisky drinks though, so I really have no need for this in my cabinet.

The finish, though short enough is still too long for my liking here.  The lingering flavors just aren’t pleasant enough to not wear out their welcome.

An absolutely unexceptional blend.  Put the $30 you were thinking of spending on this towards a bottle of The Black Label instead.

One final note on blended whiskies…

They rely on the availability of their components for consistency.  I will revisit this whisky in the future to see if I notice any of the changes a few other souls have mentioned both verbally and in print.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Johnnie Walker Green Label Review

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Johnnie Walker Green Label167

43% abv

Score:  87/100

 

It’s really quite nifty when a blended whisky is more than the sum of its parts.  So how ’bout when a whisky is actually more like an exhibition of its parts?  Kinda like an exploded view wherein you can see the workings and trappings?  Well..in this case that works too.

Green Label is a blended malt, comprised of single malts, none of which are younger than 15 years.  Since 1997 Johnnie Walker have been producing this nifty little gem by marrying Cragganmore, Talisker, Caol Ila and Linkwood.  This polygamous little gathering is a marriage made in heaven.

It comes together nicely in its smooth and rich overarching theme, but is easily dissected into some of its components.  The pepper and spice are reminiscent of Talisker…the smoke and tartness are Caol Ila through and through…while the Cragganmore and Linkwood would logically carry the big purple fruit notes and sweetness.

The smoke on both nose and palate (but particularly the palate) is rich and cloying (in a good way) like a fine cigar, while hints of leather and spice are both charming and complimentary.  There is a little bit of peat distinguishable from the smoke that shows off a little of the Islay side of this one.

The arrival is big and sweet and carries a bit more heat than the other Johnnie Walkers I’ve sampled to date.  It coats the mouth in thick slices of tingly peppers and bold flavors.  Rich, warming and rewarding.

Though not as good as the black label, and not necessarily better or worse than the blue label, this certainly is a worthy addition to the JW stable.  If you can find it…buy one.  Quite highly recommended.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Johnnie Walker Gold Label Review

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Johnnie Walker Gold Label

43% abv

Score:  88/100

 

There is simply no getting around it.  JW make some really nice whisky.  Occasionally these are simply stunning in their complexity and spiraling depths (Black)…and other times they are bold strokes of primary flavors that make a brilliant patchwork whole (Green).

Get your head around the fact that you are drinking a blended whisky (or blended malt with the Green Label) that is going to cost something on par with a single malt.  After all…are you drinking scotch to say you are a malt enthusiast, or are you drinking to enjoy the flavors and aromas?   When you’e certain you can suspend judgement…pull up a seat.  Let’s talk about Johnnie Walker Gold.

I love a whisky that takes me a while to unravel.  I enjoy, not being confounded, but led along a path where the individuals notes continue to reveal themselves in a slow striptease, one after another, until I suddenly realize my tasting notes are a page and a half long.  This tells me that every time I sit down with the whisky it will be a deep and rewarding experience.  I think that is why we do this, isn’t it?

The loudest voices here are certainly the sweet honeyed fruit (think puckered fruit), woody walnut, peppery smoke and light cinnamon spice.  There is a bit of peat dancing around back there too amid a hint of sharp orange zest.   From here the aromas and flavors are like ghosts, hinting at their presence, but when you turn in that direction they fade and leave you wondering if they were there after all.  Was that a hint of pipe tobacco?  Maybe…or not.

Gorgeously elusive and tantalizing.  Even the finish ebbs and flow with curiosity.  One thing certain though…the finish is all pleasant and long lingering.

If you’re curious as to where this stacks up in the Johnnie Walker portfolio…quite well, actually.  You won’t be steering yourself wrong with the Blue, Green or Gold.  Personally though…I’ll still take the Black Label.

By the way…this would be a hell of a dram paired with a nice cigar.  (Blasphemy to some, I know.)

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Lance (Bastardized by Curt)