Author Archives: antihero7

Scotch Malt Whisky Society Canada Open for Business‏

THE WAIT IS OVER – A WORLD OF WONDERFUL WHISKIES AWAITS!

How do I get them? you ask.  Join The Society now, we reply!

The Canadian branch of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society is open for business.  For details on how to join visit www.smws.ca.  But for more instant gratification, here’s a quick overview.

Initial membership is $230.  Upon joining you will receive the exquisitely-designed Membership Pack (pictured above) which includes the coveted membership card personalized with your name and membership number; a handsome lapel pin; a Society handbook; a tasting note book; and best of all – four 100ml bottles of The Society’s extraordinary single cask, single malt whiskies to tantalize your tastebuds!

But more than the Membership Pack, joining The Society puts you in the enviable position of being able to purchase our rare and unique whiskies, not available to non-members.  The Society only bottles single cask whisky which means quantities are limited.  Once an expression is sold out, it’s gone forever, never to be replicated.  But don’t let that deter you!  If you miss the chance to buy one, there’s always another fantastic choice on offer.

Members will receive a monthly bottling list called Outturn which outlines each month’s new bottlings.  Quirky yet informative tasting notes written by our Tasting Panel of industry experts and enthusiasts accompany each bottle description making it easy for you to find the perfect dram.  The month’s Outturn is available on www.smws.ca.

Membership also entitles you to receive our quarterly award-winning magazine Unfiltered – a glossy, colourful, sometimes whimsical look at the whisky industry.

Don’t delay – there’s a space on your shelf for a great new whisky (or two, or…).  www.smws.ca

Here’s just one great example of the whiskies now available:

 

7.70 Naughty Nectar  19 year old Speyside

The nose conveyed elegance and maturity – perfumed honey, dried coconut and exotic fruits.  These impressions carried through to the palate, with vanilla giving overall impressions of tutti frutti or Neopolitan ice cream – ‘Nectar!’  ‘Absolutely fabulous!’ and ‘Decadent and naughty!’ were some of our responses.  The reduced nose, still sweetly enticing, also had intimations of worn leather, canvas, cigarette packets and celery salt.  The reduced palate seemed like a heavenly garden – beehives, flowers, washing on the line and canvas chairs in the sun, with sherbet fountains!  From the distillery next-door to Benriach.

Malt Messenger No. 49 – The Fall Preview Edition‏

Malt Messenger No. 49

Dear Malt Messenger Subscribers,

Wherever you are in the world, I hope you’ve had a great summer. Our Alberta summer was predictably… unpredictable! Spring arrived late and brought with it lots of rain. Summer didn’t arrive until the second week of August, but what little we had was great and we’ve been compensated with a fantastic September. Yes, we’re having Indian summer with temperatures nearing 30oC today and tomorrow. For many parts of the world reaching 30oC in September is probably a given, but at nearly 3,500 feet (a full kilometre above sea level) and just a stone’s throw from the Rocky Mountains, anything can happen! In this light, I thought this would be a good opportunity to recommend a couple of great Indian summer whiskies to toast the waning days of warm weather.

There are of course some new and returned whiskies to tell you about: the An Cnoc 16 Year, Bowmore 1981, Forty Creek John’s Private Cask and some new independent bottlings from Berry’s Own Selection and Douglas Laing. But, the bulk of this news letter will be dedicated to a preview of what’s coming this fall and this is a first for the Malt Messenger. I will focus on some of the new and exciting whiskies to keep an eye out for. We’ve already seen a few of them start to trickle in, like the MacKinlay’s Shackleton replica, the Gordon & MacPhail Generations Glenlivet 70 Year (the world’s oldest whisky) and the Private Collection Glenlivet Decades. But these are just the first of many exciting new product launches we’ll see over the next few months. Here’s an important note, look for “The Scotch Malt Whisky Society” which was just awarded Independent Bottler of the Year 2011 by Whisky Magazine, and some new KWM casks!

It is also worth pointing out that the Kensington Wine Market has launched a new Blog, which can be found at http://www.kensingtonwinemarket.com/blog/ or by navigating from our home page. The Malt Messenger takes a lot of time to write, and our other store newsletters don’t often have the flexibility to tell stories, show photos or go into great detail. For this reason, our new store blog will allow us to do this and publish information in a more timely manner. There is an RSS feed you can subscribe to and we will also be announcing new posts via Twitter. In addition to reading the posts, you’ll be able to click directly to the products and have the ability to leave comments. It’s just another way we can serve and inform our customers. We hope you find it helpful.

Next month we’ll get back on track with the regular Malt Messenger, the 50th full edition of the Malt Messenger. There will be a “Distillery in Focus”, “Collector’s Picks”, “Whisky 101” and the second half of my “Closed Distilleries of Scotland” feature. Look for this in early October.  In the meantime, I hope you enjoy this Fall Preview Edition of the Malt Messenger.

Slainté!

Andrew Ferguson

PS-Don’t forget you can follow me on Twitter at www.twitter.com/scotch_guy !

 

In this edition of the Malt Messenger:

1.       Up Coming Events

2.       Whiskies for an Indian Summer

3.       Bin Ends We’re Blowing Out This Month

4.       Introducing the An Cnoc 16 Year

5.       Three New Releases From Berry’s Own

6.       Two New Whiskies from Douglas Laing

7.       Two New 18 Year Old From Cooley Distillery

8.       Bowmore 1981 28 Year

9.       Amrut Intermediate Sherry Is Back!

10.   Forty Creek John’s Private Cask

11.   Fall Preview

I.            MacKinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt – The Shackleton Replica

II.            Gordon & MacPhail Generations Glenlivet 70 Year and 5 Decades

III.            The Scotch Malt Whisky Society is Coming to Canada!

IV.            Exclusive Casks

V.            Exclusive Whiskies

VI.            Other Whiskies

VII.            Tastings & Events

 

UP COMING EVENTS

1.       Raucus Rums – A roundup of some of the finest sipping rums in the world. We’ll be sampling some old, some rare, and some new rums to the Alberta scene. As a special treat, we will have a preview sampling of some really interesting rums which will be here before Christmas. – Tuesday September 27th – $50

2.       MacKinlay’s Shackleton Whisky Launch – Ernest Shackleton, the great Antarctic explorer, was forced to abandon 3 crates of whisky in 1907 to try to save his doomed expedition. Discovered 100 years later, these rare malts have been painstakingly recreated by the distiller Whyte and MacKay. The presentation package is authentic, inspired by the original crates, the bottle was made with the same imperfections as the original and the lable has been hand drawn to reproduce a now extinct typeface. This is no gimmick; the whisky has been carefully blended to duplicate the original, and is mostly composed of whisky from the original, now closed Glen Mhor distillery. Only 180 bottles of this very limited whisky are coming to Alberta, all of them to Kensington Wine Market. We will be throwing a party to celebrate the launch, with special guests, a commemorative glass and your first opportunity to sample whiskies from the Fettercairn distillery! – Friday September 30th – $30

3.       Rare Malts – Only whiskies 20+ years of age, from closed distilleries or the very rare, need apply for this staple of our tasting schedule. This will be an epic tasting by Rare Malts standards, three of the six whiskies are from closed distilleries, and two of the whiskies are more than 35 years of age and one is more than 40! – Monday October 11th – $75

4.       Kilchoman Tasting with Anthony Wills – Anthony Wills, founder of the Kilchoman micro distillery on Islay, will be in town for a special vertical tasting of whiskies from his cult distillery including a new KWM cask and the 100% Islay bottling! – Tuesday October 11th -$30

 

WHISKIES FOR AN INDIAN SUMMER

1.       An Cnoc 16 Year – Much more information on this below, but in short it is a soft, creamy and toasty whisky with big Bourbon notes. This is one of the most exciting new releases of the summer! – $87.99

2.       Glenmorangie Sonnalta – This whisky is going, going, and very nearly gone. A onetime release from the Northern Highlands, and a store exclusive, it’s been our best seller since March. Since then we’ve sold more than 400 bottles, and at the time of writing, there are but 42 bottles left until its gone! – $74.99

3.       Arran KWM Fresh Bourbon Cask – I’m a sherry cask man through and through, but when came time to select an Arran cask for the store last winter I was torn. Both the best Bourbon and Sherry cask samples were superb and in the end we decided to do both, but faced to make a “Sophie’s Choice”, I’d have to go with the Bourbon! – $84.99

4.       Balvenie 17 Year Madeira Wood – Anyone who’s been in to the shop and chatted whisky with me knows I’m a proponent of whisky being bottled above 46% without any colouring or chill-filtering. But there are exceptions to every rule and this Balvenie is one of them, soft, sweet and spicy. A limited edition bottling, already sold out in most other parts of the world, it won’t be around for much longer. – $137.99

5.       Glenlivet Nadurra 16 Year – I wouldn’t say that The Glenlivet and I don’t get along, but we’ve never really seen eye to eye. The Glenlivet Nadurra though may be the long sought after middle ground in our dispute. It has bags of honey, ginger and natural caramel. I love the fact that it is cask strength (57.7%), that it is non-chill filtered and am presuming that they’ve added no caramel colouring. Now why can we move the rest of the line in this direction? – $77.99

6.       BenRiach 15 Year Madeira Wood – 94pts in the Whisky Bible a few years back, this dram is sweet, soft and gently spiced. Best served around a camp fire with Chips Ahoy cookies. – $82.49

7.       Auchentoshan 18 Year – This bourbon cask matured Auchentoshan is very citrusy with loads of toasted oak. It is a light refreshing dram. – $106.49

8.       Amrut Intermediate Sherry – A small amount of this soft, light, sweetly sherried whisky has returned to the market, more info can be found below! – $114.99

 

 

BIN ENDS WE’RE BLOWING OUT THIS MONTH

1.       Duthies Cragganmore 15 Year – 25% OFF – Only 11 left! – Honeyed and grassy with wet leaves, you don’t often see Cragganmore from Independent Bottlers. – Was $94.99 – Now $74.24

2.       G&M KWM Glen Grant 1966 – 25% OFF – Only 11 left!This nearly 42 year old whisky was selected by and bottled exclusively for our store. It shows great subtlety for a whisky of its age. – Was $449.99 – Now $337.49

3.       Duthies Glen Scotia 17 Year – 25% OFF – Only 18 left! – This whisky won a silver medal in the Whisky Magazine Independent Bottler’s Challenge. What is truly amazing is how impressive this whisky is, given the derelict nature of the distillery which produced it! – Was $101.99 – Now $76.49

4.       Duthies Laphroaig 11 Year – 25% OFF – Only 8 left! – This dram is a bit of an enigma for a Laphroaig, especially a younger one given that it is not a heavily medicinal whisky! – Was $98.99 – Now $74.24

 

 

AN CNOC 16 YEAR

In May of this year I had the honour of being inducted into the Keepers of the Quaich, a by invitation only society founded to recognize those who make significant contributions to the global success of Scotch whisky. The induction ceremony was held at Blair Castle in the Northern Highlands, home of the Duke of Athol, and spiritual home of the Keepers of the Quaich. The great and good of the whisky industry were all assembled for the biannual event, everyone was kitted out in Highland regalia and the Athol Highlanders (the last private army in Europe) were providing a level of pomp and circumstance above that of the 700 year old castle we assembled in.  I didn’t think I’d be, but I was very nervous, most of the inductees were members of the big beverage companies, National importers from around the world or ambassadors of this distillery or that. And there I was a humble self professed whisky expert from a single small retails store in Calgary, the first Canadian retail expert to be so honoured. The generous dram of An Cnoc 16 Year I was handed couldn’t have come at a better time. After a few pulls I relaxed and it dawned on me that this An Cnoc was a lovely little dram, I made a mental note to inquire about it on my return.

An Cnoc for those of you who don’t know is a pseudonym for Knockdhu distillery. When the brand was first launched as a single malt, it was felt that the name Knockdhu might be confused with another not too distant distillery Knockandoo. Even though Knockdhu predates Knockandoo by the better part of five years, the latter had gone to market first with its single malt (both being primarily made for blending until a relatively short time ago) and it was felt that single malt from Knockdhu should have a distinct moniker.

An Cnoc 16 Year – 46% – American Oak – My Tasting Note: Nose: floral, bourbony and citric; dandelions, geraniums and rose petals; barley sugars, firm toasted oak and roasted coconut chips; citrus notes include shades of lemon and lime zest; Palate: is massively bourbony with vanilla icing, shredded coconut and more firm toasted oak; the citrus notes are much more prominent on the palate with lemon drops, candied orange and lemon/lime zest; there is a soft creamy component to it too but the whisky retains a soft character and is far from over the top; Finish: drying and toasty with burnt orange, a late wave of lemon drops and more vanilla icing; Comments: this whisky will be forever linked to Keepers of the Quaich inauguration in May of this year. It was our welcome dram, it was three fingers deep and it cut my nerves just before the ceremony. This is the first An Cnoc which has really impressed me, and I’m sure it won’t be the last! – Exclusive to KWM – $87.99

 

 

THREE NEW WHISKIES FROM BERRY’S OWN SELECTION

Berry’s Own Selection is a line of independently bottled single malt whiskies sourced, selected and bottled by Berry Brothers & Rudd in London. They are one of the world’s oldest wine merchants, and have been trading from the same shop at 3 James Street for more than 300 years. The company began retailing whiskies in 1909 under the “Berry’s Own Selection” label, making it one of the oldest independent bottlers in Scotland. For two successive years, 2010 and 2011, Berry Brothers has been awarded Independent Bottler of the Year by Whisky Magazine as part of their “Icons of Whisky” awards.

       

Kensington Wine Market has carefully selected three bottlings from Berry Own Selection for exclusive sale in Canada! I sat down with my good friend and fellow whisky lover Dr. Jane Cameron and a batch of samples for review some months ago. After the tasting we settled on three favourites which I arranged to bring in to the store.

1.       Berry’s Own Teaninich 1973 – 41.8% – 37 Year – Bottled 2010 – Cask 10418 – My Tasting Note: Nose: fruit flan, shortbread with icing sugar and softly toasted oak; it is so decadent with Crave vanilla cupcake icing, peaches, almond paste and buttery French croissants right out of the oven; there are some green floral and herbal notes but they never manage to dull the lustre of the more decadent ones; Palate: very soft, grassy but buttery with more sweet decadent notes; the oak is firm, thick and oily with roasted coconut chips, vanilla extract and cocoa beans; there are citrus notes to the palate which I didn’t pick up on the nose: like lemon drops and candied orange; Finish: drying and oily, but sweet with rich sugars and warm toasted oak; the oils linger as the sweet oak coating the palate long into the finish; Comments: this is dollar for dollar a better buy than the Daluiane (see below) and the one which will please the greater number of whisky drinkers. – $246.99

2.       Berry’s Own Daluaine 1973 – 50.6%37 Year – Bottled 2010 – Cask 6074/5 – My Tasting Note: Nose: at first warm with caramelized fruit and gentle spices; the spices develop into ground cinnamon, coriander, cardamom and anise; the toasted oak develops next followed by some stewed and poached fruits like apple and pear then figs and prunes; as it opens up the fruits come to the fore and dominate all else with peaches, plum and dried apricots; Palate: the fruits waste no time coming out on the palate, though they are immediately accompanied by sweet spices like ginger, cardamom and liquorice; the oak makes its presence felt with some earthy notes, wet leaves and clove; fresh peaches, strawberries and dried apricots also emerge with some stronger notes of coffee bean, candied orange, moist ginger snap and glazed raisin Danishes; Finish: round and chewy with more notes of glazed raisin Danishes, burnt liquorice and espresso bean; some of the stronger sherry notes like wet leather and tobacco start to show later with some nutty-chocolaty notes. Comments: hands down my favourite of the three, it shows the most growth and the most depth of any of these whiskies. – $286.99

3.       Berry’s Own Bowmore 1994 – 46% – 14 Years – Bottled 2008 – Cask 1682/3 – My Tasting Note: Nose: very herbal with fresh green grass, salty and medicinal notes, cured fish and clean smoke; shortbread with granular sugar topping, candied lemon, something a little rubbery and burning grass; steamed mussels in broth, Salt n Vinegar chips and rubber tubing; Palate: a little ashy with clean burning wood smoke, liquid honey and vanilla; the palate shows more steamed mussels in a very salty broth with a sweet sugary backbone that never really disappears; the whisky has an oily-mouth-coating character and some balancing acidity; Finish: fine cigar tobacco, gently peat oils and sweet toasted oak, with clove and more clean wood smoke Comments: this is a night and day different whisky from the Tempest which is more creamy and buttery, this one is much more salty, smoky and sweet! –$95.59

 

TWO NEW WHISKIES FROM DOUGLAS LAING

Douglas Laing & Co. is a Glasgow based Blender and Independent Bottler of Scotch whisky. Headed by brothers Stewart and Fred Laing the company has some enviable stocks, especially of older whiskies and those from closed distilleries. I have always been a big fan of their Port Ellen bottlings, and the older casks of Glenfarclas they somehow manage to get their hands on. Port Ellen distillery closed in 1983 and its whiskies are getting older, rare and more expensive with every passing year. No one has as much Port Ellen, or is as prolific in bottling it as Douglas Laing. And their Glenfarclas bottlings are especially curious, as they can’t mention the distillery by name, instead giving it an appropriate pseudonym: Probably Speyside’s Finest Distillery.

1.       Provenance Port Ellen 27 Year – 46% – Distilled: Spring 1983 – Bottled: Spring 2010 – Refill Butt – DL Ref # 6101 – My Tasting Note: Nose: creamy, oily and buttery with grassy/heathery notes and clean peat smoke; very soft on the nose and creamy rich with vanilla, citrus and doughy notes; I’m trying to resist calling it sweet, because the nose can’t detect “sweet” as an aroma but it seems very honeyed, sugary and promisingly sweet; Palate: the palate definitely has a sweet honey/barley sugar character but it is also very creamy, oily and soft with gentle peat smoke and a salty tang; there is a lot of depth to this Port Ellen, and while I would suggest the peat and smoke are on the light side for a whisky from this Islay distillery they are made up for by great complexity; melons, peaches and dried apricots dance across the palate through a base of cream with tiny islets of grassy/heathery peat; Finish: drying, salty and cleanly smoked the fresh cream lingers for a long time with tingling traces of grassy smoke, sea salt, leather and sweet oak; Comments: one of the creamier Port Ellen’s I’ve had, this may be from a Refill Butt, but if I had to wager I’d suggest it was an American Oak sherry butt! – $346.99

2.       O&R Probably Speyside’s Finest Distillery 45 Year – 54.2% – Distilled: July 1965 – Bottled: March 2011 – Sherry Butt – My Tasting Note: Nose: Christmas cake, brown sugar, candied nuts and all things “sherry cask”; It is like walking down the bulk candy isle at a grocery store with the aromas of mixed nuts, dried fruit, jujubes and other candies; there is oak presence in the whisky but not dominance, with plenty of room left over for gentle but rich spices, anise and even some notes of fresh mint and marzipan; Palate: the spices and candied fruit don’t take long to develop with the oak emerging later; for my taste it is the spices which are the most dominant and interesting characteristic, with hints of cardamom, clove, ginger sticks, and cinnamon; there are big Christmas cake and candied fruit notes to this whisky along with shades of leather and strong cigar tobacco; Finish: drying, leathery and oaky with some traces of nutty sherry and old oak; spices linger throughout the finish along with some fatty oak notes and soft leather; Comments: there is something about Glenfarclas spirit which allows Glenfarclas to mature longer than most other single malts at a similar age; perhaps it is the spirit or their choice of casks, but I’ve had more good whisky from Glenfarclas than from any other distillery; possibly because next to no-one else has as much mature stock! – $499.99

 

 

TWO NEW 18 YEAR OLDS FROM COOLEY DISTILLERY

Cooley Distillery is one of only 4 distilleries in Ireland, and along with the Kilbeggan Distillery (the 4th distillery) which it is in the process of bringing back to life; together, they are the only independent distilleries in Ireland. At the end of the 19th Century Irish whiskey had a reputation and demand second to none in the world, but the 20th Century put paid to this in just a few short years. First off there was the War of Independence which cut Irish whiskey off from the world’s largest market, the British Empire. This was shortly followed by the bitter Irish Civil War which tore the country apart. As though these troubles weren’t enough, then came the American prohibition, severing the last remaining major market for Irish whiskey. By the second half of the 20th century there were but four remaining distilleries in Ireland, Bushmills in the North and three in the Republic. The three in the Republic banded together to create Irish Distillers, closing their old independent distilleries and moving production to a single massive new distillery, Midleton Distillery. In 1972 Bushmills too fell under the control of Irish Distillers (today it is owned by Diageo), and all distilling in Ireland fell under the control of one firm, which has been owned by Pernod Ricard since 1988.

Cooley Distillery is the brain child of John Teeling who purchased an old industrial potato alcohol distillery in 1987 with the intent of turning it into an independent Irish distillery. The distillery had some difficult early years, including an attempted hostile takeover by Irish Distillers in 1989. But the distillery has stuck to its vision and today produces some of the best whiskies in Ireland. The distillery produces two different styles of single malt whiskey: the unpeated Tyrconnell and the lightly peated Connemara. They also have a blend called Kilbeggan, named for Ireland’s oldest distillery (1757; note Bushmills wasn’t founded in 1608 but rather 1784 making it younger than some operational Scottish distilleries). They are in the process of bringing the Kilbeggan distillery back to life, but in the interim the whisky that bares that name is a blend of malt and grain whiskey from Cooley. The distillery also bottles the only known single grain whiskey in Ireland.

Here are the two new additions to KWM:

Greenore 18 Year – 46% – American Oak – Made from Corn – My Tasting Note: Nose: vaguely Bourbon-like with thick vanilla, robust notes of corn and corn-mash and an aloe-like floral top note; some faint spices: cinnamon and cardamom with Fig Newtons; Palate: very sweet with vanilla and sugary oak notes; the corn makes its presence felt in a big way with soft thin oils and more gentle spice; there are also notes of juniper, grapefruit and orange rind which strike me as being vaguely gin-like; Finish: sweet with vanilla, toasted oak and more of the Juniper-citrus notes; Comments: good but not great, lacking a little complexity, but it will please anyone looking for a soft sweet tipple. – $109.99

Kilbeggan 18 Year – 40% – American Oak Matured – A blend of corn and malt whiskies. – My Tasting Note: Nose: honey, oranges, unmalted barley and other grains; the nose is a tad dusty but very soft and smooth without even the faintest rough edge; grassy floral notes develop with patience with both ripe green grass and geraniums; Palate: the palate is silky soft and sweet with more vanilla and honey than I expected from the nose (a pleasant surprise); the grains show well with both corn and wheat notes which develop into more of the floral and ripe green grassy notes found on the nose; there is a touch of earth and spices too with an orange citrus character as well; Finish: a touch oily and coating, though it is a light touch; the grassy/floral notes take center stage with traces of honey and the oak starting to show some age (but not in a bad way); the finish is of medium length and is drying; Comments: by far my favourite of the two; much smoother and more complex than the Greenore 18 Year and worth the extra $45 and then some. – $154.99

 

BOWMORE 1981 28 YEAR

Sadly, if you don’t already own a bottle of this whisky, there isn’t any to be had! Only 12 bottles of it came to Canada, all of it to KWM, and they were all sold before they even hit the floor. But don’t feel too badly, there is a follow-up 1982 Bowmore coming in, in just a few months, and we will be getting approximately 18 bottles of it. It will also be exclusive to KWM. More info can be found below in the Fall Preview section. But seeing as I wrote one, here is the tasting note for the 1981 anyway:

Bowmore 1981 28 Year – 49.6% – 402 bottles – Only 12 in Alberta, all of them at Kensington Wine Market – American oak matured in the storied No. 1 Vaults – My Tasting Notes: Nose: very soft and creamy white and orchard fruits; there is a faint whiff of something salty and smoky but is the soft fruits that are on the charm offensive; treacle sauce, toffee and Highland toffee back up the whisky’s assault; old brown sugar and bacon fat show up late; Palate: creamy, sweet and complex; vanilla pods and fresh cream with faintly spicy herbs and clean wood smoke; there are notes of melon, apricots and some buttery tropical fruits; this whisky is a little like the Tempest (Batch 1) left in the warehouse to mature another couple of decades; Finish: an extension of the palate it is long, creamy and fruity with more bacon fat and clean salty smoke. – $490.99

 

AMRUT INTERMEDIATE SHERRY IS BACK – $114.99

90 bottles of this whisky came in earlier this year and sold out immediately. Currently we only have 18 bottles so this whisky is limited to 2 bottles per customer. It has been bottled at a cask strength of 57.1%. My tasting note follows below after Jim Murray’s which explains the origin of this whisky. Me thinks he may have had something to do with it…

 

“Amrut Intermediate Sherry – 96.5pts Jim Murray – “Nose: instead of the usual biscuit aroma, we now get moist cake. And my word: is it fruity and spicy!! Love the freshly waxed oak floor, too. Brain-explodingly complex and multi-layered with one of the most intriguing sherry-style-bourbon-style marriages on the market; Taste: cracking delivery and entirely unique in form. The structure is decidedly oak-based, but acts as no more than a skeleton from which the juicy sultana and spices drape. Salivating, too, as the barley kicks in powerfully. But the liquorice-orangey-honeycomb bourbon theme quietly shapes the flavour profile; the spices pulse and glow; Finish: quite a chunk of natural caramel quietens the more exuberant characteristics, long and elegant; Balance: how do you three freshly emptied oloroso butts from Jerez to Bangalore without the casks spoiling, and not use sulphur? Answer: empty two cases of Amrut cask strength whisky into each of the butts before shipping them. Not a single off note. No bitterness whatsoever. And the fruit is left to impart its extraordinary riches on a malt also matured in American oak. Amrut is spoiling us again. 57.1%” – Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible 2011

My Tasting Notes: Nose: good depth, sweet candied fruits, papaya and mango, vanilla milkshake, mixed berry jam, ginger snaps, molasses and caramel aplenty; there is fresh green grassy character; Palate: lots of spice, cinnamon, clove and ginger, sweet sherry notes, firm but not overpowering oak warms the palate; the whisky has a nice weight to it, silky oils stroke the back of my palate while the spice (or the alcohol) leaves it pleasantly tingling; vanilla custard and boiled cream show up late to represent the early Bourbon maturation of this whisky; Finish: drying with more spice and pleasant oak notes; Comments: very good, and very drinkable; the cask strength is nowhere near as overbearing as it is on some of the other Amruts; overall a very pleasant sherried whisky!

 

 

FORTY CREEK JOHN’S PRIVATE CASK – $65.99

Every fall Forty Creek Master Distiller John Hall launches a new Canadian whisky on to the market. Last year it was the hugely successful Confederation Oak, this year it is “John’s Private Cask”. Although the whisky is called John’s Private cask it was actually a marriage of whiskies from 23 hand selected casks which he felt emphasized the traditional characteristics of good Canadian whisky, bringing the spicy rye flavours to the forefront.  The result is a limited release of 9000 bottles available in small quantities nationwide. Kensington Wine Market is expecting at least 60 bottles.

As I haven’t tasted it just yet I will borrow the work of a friend, Davin de Kergommeaux, who runs a website called www.canadianwhisky.org and who has just published a book on the subject with photos by Jane Cameron whom many Kensington Wine Market customers will be familiar called: Canadian Whiskey (the editor chose to insert an “E”).

“Nose: Very fruity and rich, the nose is immediately reminiscent of those old fruity lumber smells of whiskies like Canadian Club 30-year old with its prunes and dry figs and sweet wood and lushness. This dark fruit slowly evolves into fresh fruit – maybe berries, maybe kiwi – while rye spices, ginger and some slight herbal notes simmer away well below the surface. Gradually the rye ripens into cloves and especially ginger with lots of that generic Canadian rye whisky smell. Butterscotch envelopes a sweet Canada balsam woodiness, or is it dry wood strapping in a hot attic? Campfire notes teasingly hint at smoke, leaving more room for wood than char. A certain brightness is cloaked in heavy fruit, muskiness and the muggy weight of a sweet virgin redwood forest. Imagine a damp West Coast Trail on a brilliantly sunny morning. Palate: Bursting blasts of candied ginger quickly overpower a huge surging creamy butterscotch. Oh, it’s hot, but a spicy hot, not peppery. These are real rye spices – traditional rye spices – with ginger at the fore. They immediately take siege of the palate, yet the palate remains broad and rich with constant action from bittersweet citric elements such as candied orange rind. And every here and there a few odd things creep in such as milk duds, gelatin caps and brown sugar, only to scurry quickly away. A warming Christmas-fire glow coats the throat. The rich, mouth-filling, medium-to-robust body, though creamy, is by no means smooth. No: Eruptions of spice take care of that. Hot glowing ginger dominates the middle and as it fades into the finish it tingles like ginger ale. Rich dark fruit permeates supple tannins that pull gently at your cheeks as cedar lumber and pencil shavings linger long on the tongue and in the nose. Finish: Very long; it never really disappears. Spicy and refreshingly citric with lots of ginger and grapefruit pith.” – Davin de Kergommeaux www.canadianwhisky.org

 

 

KWM 2011 FALL WHISKY PREVIEW

This is shaping up to be the most exciting and interesting fall with respect to whisky that Kensington Wine Market has had in the 9 years I’ve been here. We have some really interesting brands and whiskies already here, with many more on the way! Next week we are launching the MacKinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt, a replica of the whisky discovered lying under Ernest Shackleton’s Hut for more than 100 years. The first half of our 300 bottle allocation was sold before it even landed in Alberta, and I expect the same will be true for the other half due in December, especially after next week’s event!

We also launched the Gordon & MacPhail Generations Glenlivet 1940 70 Year late last month, the oldest whisky in the world! We held two packed sold out tastings with the whisky here at the store which raised more than $4000.00 for the Children’s Hospital Aid Society. I’ll have more on that tasting in the next Malt Messenger, including my tasting notes on the 70 year old, as well as the five decade bottlings (1954, 1963, 1974, 1980 and 1991) which accompanied it.

One of the most exciting product launches this fall is the arrival in Canada of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society. “The Society”, as it is known to members, is the world’s largest whisky club. It selects and bottles single cask, cask strength whiskies exclusively for members. In partnership with the Canadian branch of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, the Kensington Wine Market is very excited to be able to exclusively offer memberships and Society bottlings to beginning in mid-October.

But as if this were not enough, we have much more planned for this fall including a couple of casks. We have selected a second bottling from Kilchoman(this one from a sherry cask), and we’ve gotten our hands on a spectacular 1972 Glendronach sherry cask. The Glendronach was a serendipitous discovery of my May Speyside whisky tour. While touring the distillery we were given the opportunity to sample a couple of casks, and one of them completely blew us away. It is one of the most complex, fruitiest whiskies I’ve ever had, and I know it will be a huge hit with all of you!

There are so many interesting whiskies coming in this fall that I couldn’t possibly fit them all into this Malt Messenger, but I’ll try. Here’s a taste of what to expect over the next 3-4 months:

I               MacKinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt – The Shackleton Replica

·         More than 100 years ago Ernest Shackleton’s South Pole expedition chose to abandon 3 crates of MacKinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt to the frigid Antarctic climate. For more than 100 years the bottles lay forgotten, packed with straw in wooden crates under the expedition’s hut. Discovered by the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust two of the bottles were given to the owners of the brand Whyte and MacKay. Their Master Blender Richard Patterson, “AKA the Nose” using meticulous sensory and chemical analysis has recreated the whisky’s profile, even going so far as to include whisky from the original distillery Glen Mhor which has been closed nearly 30 years. The whisky, in the words of expert Dave Broom is: “absolutely bang on,” and Malt Advocate Magazine has scored it 92/100 pts. In Alberta this interesting little dram is exclusive to the Kensington Wine Market!

·         We are having a tasting  on Friday September 30th to celebrate the launch at which we will also be showcasing the soon to arrive Fettercairn whiskies and some other Dalmore/Jura whiskies. The event is only $30, includes a unique Glencairn glass created just for the event and will feature a Shackleton expert Susan Eaton and penguin photos by amateur photographer and whisky connoisseur Dr. Jane Cameron. For more info refer to Up Coming Events above.

·         Only 300 bottles are coming to Alberta, all of them to the Kensington Wine Market.

·         144 bottles arrived in August and have already sold.

·         156 bottles due in December, 10% of which are already spoken for.

·         $194.99 + GST

 

II             Gordon & MacPhail Generations Glenlivet 1940 70 Year and Private Collection 5 Decades

·         The whisky, filled into cask in 1940 at the height of the Battle of Britain, has been bottled at its natural cask strength of 45.9% after maturing 70 years in a single First Fill Sherry Butt. The hand blown crystal decanters are in the shape of a tear and have a British Hallmarked silver stopper. The decanter is cradled in a sterling silver base, in a bespoke Scottish Elm box handmade in Scotland.

·         Gordon & MacPhail Generation Glenlivet 70 Year – 45.9% – 100 Numbered Bottles – My Tasting Note: Nose: peaches and cream, mulled fruits, hard candies and fruit leather with some deft Christmas Cake notes; it is like opening a fresh bag of assorted jujubes on a new leather sofa, and there is something vaguely smoky (it was after all the war years and coal was in high demand); Palate: soft and so, so delicate, surprisingly some soft smoky notes to start with more peaches and cream and the softest-warming-buttery fruit imaginable; it becomes richer as the palate develops with brown sugar and spices: cinnamon, cardamom, clove and ginger; leather and tobacco notes also develop but remain delicate and smooth; there are so many layers to this whisky: citrus, smoke, soft coating oils and much, much, more; nutty tones and vanilla; I can’t believe how gentle this whisky is, and how soft the oak; Finish: long and warming, sweet with subtle spice and nutty oak, my palate is moist, damp and coated with soft oils; Comments: much more than I ever expected a 70 year old whisky could be and more complex and far less oaky than expected!

o   Only 2 700ml bottles of the 70 Year Old are available to Canada, both exclusive to KWM, $21,999.99.

o   10 200ml bottles of the 70 year old are available for $5,999.99, also exclusive to KWM.

·         Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivets: 5 different vintage Glenlivets were released along with the 1940 70 Year Old, available individually, as part of the 5 Decade Boxed Set and as 5 Decade Loose Set:

o   Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 5 Decade Boxed Set – 50 Sets Available World Wide– The 1st one in Alberta sold immediately, we have 2 more coming. – 1 bottle each of the following vintages: 1954, 1963, 1974, 1980 and 1991. – $5664.99

o   Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 5 Decade Loose Set – I put this together at the shop, because there were only 3 bottles of the 1980 vintage to come in. – Only two of these are available, with each vintage individually boxed. – 1 bottle each of the following vintages: 1954, 1963, 1974, 1980 and 1991. – $5664.99

o   Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 1954 – 56 Year – 135 bottles – Only 6 bottles to Alberta – 50.6% – First Fill Sherry Hogshead – Tasting Notes to Come in a Future Malt Messenger – $2193.99 – A few left in stock, we are getting a few more.

o   Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 1963 – 47 Year – 169 bottles – Only 6 bottles to Alberta – 40.6% – First Fill American Oak Hogshead – Tasting Notes to Come in a Future Malt Messenger – $1325.99 – A few left in stock, we are getting a few more.

o   Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 1974 – 36 Year 189 bottles – Only 6 bottles to Alberta – 50.1% – First Fill Sherry Hogshead – Tasting Notes to Come in a Future Malt Messenger – $923.99 – A few left in stock, we are getting a few more.

o   Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 1980 – 30 Year – 61 bottles – Only 3 bottles to Alberta – 48.5% – Refill American Oak Hogshead – Tasting Notes to Come in a Future Malt Messenger – $496.99 – SOLD OUT – Unable to get any more…

o   Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 1991 – 19 Year – 203 bottles – Only 6 bottles to Alberta – 54.4% – Refill Sherry Hogshead – Tasting Notes to Come in a Future Malt Messenger – $202.99 – Currently we are sold out but getting more…

 

 

III            The Scotch Malt Whisky Society is Coming to Canada!

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society is coming to Canada, and Kensington Wine Market will be its exclusive Canadian embassy. “The Society”, as it is known, traces its origins to the 1970’s and the passion of one man, Philip “Pip” Hills, who travelled around the Scottish Highlands sampling whiskies straight from the cask. Eventually he convinced a group of friends to pitch in for a cask of whisky from Glenfarclas distillery. The first cask was a huge hit and a syndicate was formed which began buying and bottling casks for members. From there the organization grew, attracting new members and then establishing venues for members first in Edinburgh and then in London. Today the Society has branches in more than 15 countries, , including its newest in Canada!

This curious Society selects and bottles whiskies only for its members, relying on a panel of experts to make the selections. The distillery of origin is assigned a number; for example, as Glenfarclas was the first whisky bottled by the Society, it is distillery number 1. A second number is then assigned according to how many casks from that distillery have been bottled; the 159th cask of Glenfarclas bottled by the distillery would be referenced as 1.159. Each of these single cask bottlings, bottled at their natural cask strength and without added colouring or chillfiltering, is also given a colourful tasting note and quirky name like “Lively and Explosive” (which incidentally is the name given to 1.159). This specific bottling from the Society will be available in Alberta in the next few weeks (not to mention “Naughty Nectar”, cask no. 7.70)! And if those teasers aren’t enough to tempt your taste buds, The Society was just named Independent Bottler of the Year by Whisky Magazine.

 

Starting in the second half of October Scotch Malt Whisky Society Memberships and bottlings will be available exclusively from the Kensington Wine Market. Memberships include a membership pack, including 4 x 100 ml bottles of Society whisky, a coveted membership card, which will gain entrance to the members’ rooms in Edinburgh, London and elsewere, and a subscription to Unfiltered, The Society’s award winning magazine for members only. We are also informed that The Society aims at releasing five new bottlings EVERY month! Because these are bottlings of single casks, each is completely unique – once they’re gone, they’re gone forever – so members need to stay at the top of their game and act fast to grab the ones they like.

 

For more information on The Society and its Canadian arm, and to be kept in the loop regarding Society news pay a visit www.smws.ca , or send an e-mail to curious@smws.ca..

 

 

IV            Exclusive Casks

1.       Glendronach 1972 KWM Cask – As mentioned above this whisky was discovered purely by luck while visiting the distillery in May of this year. It is exceptional, and we will be getting 300 bottles, of which we’ve managed to pre-sell no fewer than 85. I haven’t had the opportunity to write a proper tasting note yet so I am a quoting the “Malt Monster”:

o   “1972 CASK # 711 39 YEAR OLD  ABV – CASK STRENGTH ,  ADVANCE SAMPLE KENGINGTON WINE MARKET  , OLOROSO SHERRY BUTT – NOSE: Fruit explosion.. Pineapple , bananas , mango , melons , cherries and oranges.. Cocoa and mint TASTE : Melons and prunes.. Tannins from the sherry.. Raisins , coffee and cinnamon  FINISH : Long and fantastic..Begins creamy & spicy , then warms up and fades gently.. little briny at the back end ASSESSMENT : Complex and balanced older sherry fruit bomb.. What a nose.. Would put this whisky right between the Black Bowmore and the Glenfarclas 40 year old.”

   The cask.     The sampling.

2.       Kilchoman KWM Sherry Cask – Our first Kilchoman cask, from a fresh ex-Bourbon barrel, was a huge hit this past year, and of the 267 bottles we have just two left! I have been very impressed by their whiskies since they started releasing three year olds just a few years back and I’m not alone. There is something about their raw spirit and the casks they’re filling which has allowed Kilchoman to bottle excellent whiskies, even at a young age. While visiting the distillery in May I asked the founder Anthony Wills (who’ll be here for a tasting October 11th—while I’m at Kilchoman coincidentally) if there was any chance we could do another cask. He said we could, and we’ve selected a Sherry Cask, 322/06.– $114.99

3.       Glenfarclas 1997 KWM Cask – The first to my knowledge, private cask of Glenfarclas in Canada! This won’t be available until the New Year and will be launched at our Robbie Burns Supper on the 25th of January 2012, with special guest George Grant. – $TBA

 

V             Exclusive Whiskies

1.       GLENFARCLAS 175th ANNIVERSARY CHAIRMAN’S RESERVE – 46% – A combination of 4 of their best Sherry Casks with a combined age of 175 years, the youngest of which was 42 years of age. – 1296 bottles have been released worldwide complete with glass, water jug and certificate. – Only 60 bottles to Canada, exclusively for Kensington Wine Market – My Tasting Note: Nose: brown sugar and beer nuts; espresso roast, rich buttery sherry notes; roasted marshmallow with musty/earthy dunnage floor notes and dark aged rum; spices aplenty with ginger, cinnamon, cardamom and other sweet spices; there is a tropical fruit backdrop to the whole thing but they are hidden behind the burnt sugar and other caramelized notes; burnt butter and coffee cream; Palate: rich, bold and yet very soft with silky buttery sherry notes; sweet spices with mocha and espresso; burnt fruits, melons, and then the tropical fruits start to emerge, and fruits aplenty though they remain tempered by the burnt sugar and sherry notes; there is a chocolaty element to the whisky too, including cocoa nibs, Terry’s Chocolate Orange and Cadbury milk chocolate with fruit and nuts; Finish: more sweet spices with dried tropical fruits, burnt brown sugar and fading tones of chocolate; long and oily the oak spices and fruit linger; Comments: needs a little time to open up, but once it does its full of layers, depth and complexity. As rich as the 40 year old, but perhaps a little darker! – $TBA ($700 range)

2.       BenRiach Firkin 1978 Only 40 bottles of this whisky are available in the world and just one if coming to Canada. This unusual whisky was matured 32 years in an unusual cask. “Firkin casks were traditionally used for the maturation of fine ale and the name is derived from the Middle Dutch word ‘vierdekijn’, meaning ‘fourth’ – in other words, a quarter of a full-size barrel.”  Would love to have bought one of these for myself, as I share the vintage, but its a little out of my range and I’ve already found a buyer! – $2599.99

3.       Fettercairn Fior – 42% – Heavily peated single malt from one of the eastern Highland lesser known distilleries. I will write my own tasting note sometime soon, but in the meantime: “Official Tasting Notes: Dark chocolate, coffee beans and peat smoke, with nutmeg, mint, citrus fruits and truffle. A finish of sherry trifle, marzipan and pineapple.” $TBA

4.       Fettercairn 24 Year – 44.4% – 1984 Vintage – Only 6000 bottles worldwide. – Distiller’s Tasting Note: “Honey gold in colour, with aromas of crushed pear, toffee apple and hints of cinnamon and vanilla. A kiss of peat smoke with hazelnuts, orange rind, ginger and coriander complete the nose. Taste is of bold dark chocolate, roasted coffee beans and peat smoke fused with nutmeg, mint, citrus fruits and truffle. The lingering finish proffers sherry trifle, marzipan and pineapple. “ – $TBA

5.       Fettercairn 30 Year – 43.3% – 1978 Vintage – Only 3000 bottles worldwide. – Distiller’s Tasting Notes: Nose – Warm and inviting. Sweet juicy grape pulp, crushed apples and soft pear with subtle hints of cinnamon. This pleasurable experience is quickly followed by oatcakes, freshly baked bread and creamy caramel, with nuances of lemon grass, pineapple and sensual jasmine. Taste – Firm and positive. Elegant and distinguished. The warmth of American White oak has nurtured this Highland classic single malt and moulded its noble character to perfection. Luscious soft fruits of apple, pear and Cape gooseberries linger long on the palate before the next wave of ecstasy follows on. Nutmeg, peaches and spice brings this fanfare of flavours to a pleasing finish. – $TBA

6.       Fettercairn 40 Year 40% – 1969 Vintage – Only 463 bottles worldwide. – Distiller’s Tasting Note: Nose – Rich and pleasing. Marmalade, ground coffee with whispers of crushed almonds, marzipan and spice open the initial bouquet of complex aromas. Matured for 30 long years in the finest wood, you can easily taste the influence of our Spanish Oloroso sherry butts. Taste – A treasure chest of flavours gently unfolds on the palate and exposes its many hidden secrets. Warm, sensual and inviting. Citrus fruits, sweet mango and wild berries tease the tongue with their tantalising flavours. Enjoy subtle hints of freshly cut pineapple, tangy grapefruit and cranberries. This fruit bowl of abundance truly rewards the palate providing it with a long lasting memorable after taste. As the saying goes ‘ all good things come to those who are prepared to wait.” $TBA

7.       Bowmore 1982 – 29 Year47.3% – 501 Bottles Released – 18 of them are coming to Canada/KWM – Matured in the No.1 Vaults – Distiller’s Tasting Note: Nose: On the nose, the Bowmore 1982 reveals barley sugar and gentle peat smoke coupled with delicious Peach Melba ice-cream and vanilla pods. Taste: On the palate, anticipate fresh lemon pepper followed by warm, earthy smokiness. Finish: The sweet, fruity finish lingers on perfectly. – $TBA

8.       Glen Garioch 1978 – 30 Year – 57.8% – 1320 bottles worldwide – 24 to Alberta/KWM – Distiller’s Tasting Note: Nose – The nose is filled by the fresh and fragrant aroma of pear drops, orange fruit loaf, dark chocolate and toasted oak. Palate Poached pears and sweet red apple fill the mouth before nuances of smoked oak begin to emerge. The aftertaste is of Seville orange zest with a pleasant wood spiciness. $TBA

9.       Bowmore Laimrig – This is a cask strength version of the 15 Year Darkest, originally created for the Swedish market and will be exclusive in Alberta to the Kensington Wine Market. We are expecting 300 bottles beginning this fall! $TBA

10.   Premier Barrel Highland Park 10 Year – Further details and tasting notes to be provided upon arrival. – $126.99

11.   Old Malt Cask Talisker 10 Year – Further details and tasting notes to be provided upon arrival. – $129.99

12.   Old Malt Cask Littlemill 19 Year – Further details and tasting notes to be provided upon arrival. – $154.99

13.   Old & Rare Port Ellen 31 Year – Further details and tasting notes to be provided upon arrival. – $699.99

14.   Glendronach 1972 Cask # 712 – 39Yr – Oloroso Butt – Only 6 Coming in to Canada

15.   Glendronach 1992 Cask # 161 – 19Yr – Oloroso Butt– Only 6 Coming in to Canada

16.   BenRiach 1971 Cask # 1947 – 40Yr

17.   BenRiach 1972 Cask # 802 – 39Yr

18.   BenRiach 1976 Cask # 6942 – 34Yr

19.   BenRiach 1977 cask # 1034 ­- 34Yr – PX Sherry Finish

20.   BenRiach 1978 Cask 4387 – 32Yr – Virgin American Oak Finish

21.   BenRiach 1979 Cask # 11195 – 31YrPeated

22.   BenRiach 1980 Cask 2531 – 31Yr – Virgin American Oak Finish

23.   BenRiach 1984 Cask # 7193 – 26Yr – Peated Virgin American Oak Finish

24.   BenRiach 1989 Cask # 4813 22Yr – Sauternes Finish

25.   BenRiach 1989 Cask # 5620 – 22Yr – Virgin American Oak Finish

26.   BenRiach 1992 Cask # 972 – 19Yr – Tawny Port Finish

27.   BenRiach 1993 Cask 7415 – 18Yr – Barolo Finish

VI            Some Other Whiskies

1.       Springbank 21 Year – Back from the dead, finally a new 21 year old…

2.       Longrow 18 Year – If its half as good as the last one it will be terrific!

3.       Hazelburn 8 Year Sauternes Wood

4.       Kilchoman 100% Islay – The first Islay grown, malted, distilled and bottled whisky, possibly ever? At least from Kilchoman who grew the barley themselves!

5.       Big Peat Santa – $87.99 – A ask strength version of the Big Peat dressed up in a Santa’s hat for the holidays.

6.       Really Big Peat – $469.99 – 4.5L of the Big Peat Islay Blended Malt Whisky (Contains at least a drop of Port Ellen!)

7.       Glendronach 1971 Cask # 1436 – 40Yr – PX Puncheon

8.       Glendronach 1989 Cask # 2917 – 21Yr – PX Puncheon

9.       Glendronach 1990 Cask # 1032 – 20Yr – PX Puncheon

10.   Glendronach 1994 Cask # 97 – 17Yr – Oloroso Butt

11.   Dalmore Castle Leod

12.   Dalmore 40 Year

13.   Dalmore Astrum

14.   Dalmore Aurora

 

VII          Tastings & Events

1.       Glenfarclas Family Casks w/ George Grant – George Grant, Glenfarclas’ larger than life ambassador will be back for the fourth annual Family Casks tasting at the Petroleum Club. 319 – 5th Ave Sw..This year we have a special treat, a 40+ year old special bottling, The Chairman’s Reserve, celebrating the distillery’s 175th year. – Mon Oct 31 7pm – $160.00

2.       Scotch Malt Whisky Society Friday I – This is the first of our monthly SMWS tastings. $25 for members and $35 for neophytes. These tastings will highlight 5 new releases every month from the most prolific bottler of single cask, cask strength, single malt whisky. You have to be a member to buy the bottles, but we’ll let you have a taste, and membership is open to all… For more information on the Society visit www.smws.ca or call our Scotch Guy at 403-283-8000 – Fri Nov 4 7pm – $35.00

3.       Jura Distillery with Willie Tait – Jura’s brand ambassador and employee of nearly 37 years, Willie Tait, will be in town to shed some light on the distillery, its whiskies and the mysterious island they come from. – Tue Nov 8 7pm – $40.00

4.       Glendronach 1972 Launch Dinner – Our exceptional new cask will be launched this night during a special whisky dinner with Alistair Walker at Buchanan’s Chop House, 738 3 Avenue, SW. – Wed Nov 9 7pm – $135.00

5.       Fall Single Malt Festival – Our iconic whisky festival is back for another year with a line-up of up to 100 premium whiskies from some of Scotland’s finest distilleries. Don’t hesitate, it sells out every year, and there are only 100 tickets! – Thr Nov 10 7pm – $60.00

6.       Whisky, Women & Chocolate – Nothing pairs better with whisky than chocolate, so gather the gals for a sumptuous ladies only sampling of fine single malt Scotch and premium chocolate. Fri Nov 25 7pm – $50.00

7.       Master Malt – Only the most rare and special whiskies are showcased at this tasting which always highlights some of the most exciting whiskies in the world! – Tue Nov 29 7pm – $99.00

8.       Scotch Malt Whisky Society Friday I – This is the second of our monthly SMWS tastings… $25 for members and $35 for neophytes. These tastings will highlight 5 new releases every month from the most prolific bottler of single cask, cask strength, single malt whisky. You have to be a member to buy the bottles, but we’ll let you have a taste, and membership is open to all… For more information on the Society visit www.smws.ca or call our Scotch Guy at 403-283-8000 – Fri Dec 2 7pm – $35.00

9.       Universal Whisky Experience “Epicurean Scotch Tasting Indulgence” – Is being held in 7 American cities and Calgary. The Calgary event will be held at Buchanan’s Chop House as per my recommendation and you can find out more and buy tickets at http://universalwhiskyexperience.com/events.. This is an ultra-premium whisky dinner which will feature the Dalmore 40 Year Astrum and Dalmore 45 Year Aurora amongst others…

10.   Victoria Whisky Festival – January 20th -22nd 2012 – One of the best organized and most fun whisky events in Canada, with proceeds going to Children’s charities. Visit http://www.victoriawhiskyfestival.com/ for more details.

11.   Kensington Wine Market’s 7th Annual Robbie Burns Supper with George Grant of Glenfarclas Distillery – Tickets will go on sale in mid November. Save the date!

12.   Universal Whisky Experience Nth 2012 – This Super Premium whisky festival in Vegas was a lot of fun last year, and I’ll be going down again this March. – March 2nd-3rd 2012  – Visit http://universalwhiskyexperience.com/ for more info. If you are interested in attending, please contact me for a special Malt Messenger discount code.

____________________

 

If you have any whisky questions or comments concerning The Malt Messenger please contact me by e-mail, phone, or drop by the store. Feel free to forward me any whisky news you feel should be included in a future issue of The Malt Messenger; it might just get included.

 

All of the products mentioned in THE MALT MESSENGER can be purchased in store, over the phone or from our website at www.kensingtonwinemarket.com.. All prices quoted in the Malt Messenger are subject to change!

 

 

 

Thanks for reading the Malt Messenger!

 

 

 

Slainte!

 

 

 

Andrew Ferguson
KWM Scotchguy

Malt Messenger Bulletin – 2011 Fall Tasting Schedule‏

Dear Malt Messenger Subscribers,

I hope this Malt Messenger Bulletin finds you well. The Labour Day Weekend is fast approaching, and I’m sure most of you are focused on your plans for the last weekend of the summer. I know technically the summer doesn’t end on Monday but it kind of feels that way, doesn’t it? Kids go back to school, business starts to pick up and the evenings get shorter. The fall can be a lonely and foreboding time, but it doesn’t need to be that way. The Kensington Wine Market has more than a dozen reasons for you to step boldly out into the cool crisp air this fall; our Fall Tasting Schedule is now online! You can view and register for tastings online at https://www.kensingtonwinemarket.com/tastings/register.php , or give us a call at 403-283-8000. As always, many of the tastings will fill up quickly.

The next full Malt Messenger will be out next week. This Fall Preview Edition will be full of information on the exciting new releases we will be bringing to you from now through December. In the meantime I’ll share a few tidbits below on some of the new whiskies to have come in over the last few weeks. More to follow next week…

And one final piece of business. I don’t want to create a Stampede—though the last few times I announced this that was the result—but we’ve managed to get our hands on a little more of both the Alberta Premium 30 Year and the Highland Park St. Magnus. This is not a case of me “Crying Wolf”, I have been assured by the importer Beam Global that this is the last of both in the Province, and very likely, Canada! We managed to acquire 48 more bottles of the Alberta Premium 30 Year, the world’s oldest straight rye whisky. It retails for $54.99 + GST which is ridiculously cheap for a 30 year old whisky; even if they did sell the 25 year for about half the price (they may just as well have given it away). Many of these have already been sold and the rest won’t last long. And as for the Highland Park St. Magnus, we’ve picked up the last 18 bottles of it, and there is but 4 of them which weren’t already spoken for. It retails for $124.99 + GST.

I hope you enjoy this Malt Messenger Bulletin and take pleasure in the waning days of summer!

Slainté!

Andrew Ferguson

PS-Don’t forget to follow me on twitter @ twitter.com/scotch_guy and check out our new store Blog at http://www.kensingtonwinemarket.com/blog/..

 

FALL TASTING SCHEDULE

1. Classic Single Malts – This is our classic introduction to the world of single malt Scotch whisky. You’ll discover a little history, how it’s made and sample six distinct styles. – Tue Sep 20 7pm – $30.00

2. Raucous Rums – A roundup of some of the finest sipping rums in the world. We’ll be sampling some old, some rare, and some new rums to the Alberta scene. – Tues Sept 27 7pm – $50.00

3. MacKinley’s Shackleton Whisky Launch – Ernest Shackleton, the great Antarctic explorer, was forced to abandon 3 crates of whisky in 1907 to try to save his doomed expedition. Discovered 100 years later, these rare malts have been painstakingly recreated by the distiller Whyte and MacKay. The presentation package is authentic, inspired by the original crates, the bottle was made with the same imperfections as the original and the label has been hand drawn to reproduce a now extinct typeface. This is no gimmick; the whisky has been carefully blended to duplicate the original, and is mostly composed of whisky from the original, now closed Glen Mhor distillery. Only 180 bottles of this very limited whisky are coming to Alberta, all of them to Kensington Wine Market. We will be throwing a party to celebrate the launch, with special guests, a commemorative glass and your first opportunity to sample whiskies from the Fettercairn distillery! – Fri Sept 30 7PM – $30.00

4. Rare Malts – Only whiskies 20+ years of age, from closed distilleries or the very rare, need apply for this staple of our tasting schedule. – Mon Oct 3 7pm – $75.00

5. Kilchoman – Anthony Wills, founder of the Kilchoman micro distillery on Islay, will be in town for a special vertical tasting of whiskies from his cult distillery, including our now sold out Kilchoman KWM Fresh Bourbon Cask and the new Kilchoman KWM Sherry Cask! – Tue Oct 11 7pm – $30.00

6. Glenfarclas Family Casks w/ George Grant – George Grant, Glenfarclas’ larger than life ambassador will be back for the fourth annual Family Casks tasting at the Petroleum Club. 319 – 5th Ave Sw..This year we have a special treat, a 40+ year old special bottling, The Chairman’s Reserve, celebrating the distillery’s 175th year. – Mon Oct 31 7pm – $160.00

7. Scotch Malt Whisky Society Friday I – This is the first of our monthly SMWS tastings. $25 for members and $35 for neophytes. These tastings will highlight 5 new releases every month from the most prolific bottler of single cask, cask strength, single malt whisky. You have to be a member to buy the bottles, but we’ll let you have a taste, and membership is open to all… For more information on the Society visitwww.smws.ca or call our Scotch Guy at 403-283-8000 – Fri Nov 4 7pm – $35.00

8. Jura Distillery with Willie Tait – Jura’s brand ambassador and employee of nearly 37 years, Willie Tait, will be in town to shed some light on the distillery, its whiskies and the mysterious island they come from. – Tue Nov 8 7pm – $40.00

9. Glendronach 1972 Launch Dinner – Our exceptional new cask will be launched this night during a special whisky dinner with Alistair Walker at Buchanan’s Chop House, 738 3 Avenue, SW. – Wed Nov 9 7pm – $135.00

10. Fall Single Malt Festival – Our iconic whisky festival is back for another year with a line-up of up to 100 premium whiskies from some of Scotland’s finest distilleries. Don’t hesitate, it sells out every year, and there are only 100 tickets! – Thr Nov 10 7pm – $60.00

11. Whisky, Women & Chocolate – Nothing pairs better with whisky than chocolate, so gather the gals for a sumptuous ladies only sampling of fine single malt Scotch and premium chocolate. Fri Nov 25 7pm – $50.00

12. Master Malt – Only the most rare and special whiskies are showcased at this tasting which always highlights some of the most exciting whiskies in the world! – Tue Nov 29 7pm – $99.00

13. Scotch Malt Whisky Society Friday I – This is the second of our monthly SMWS tastings… $25 for members and $35 for neophytes. These tastings will highlight 5 new releases every month from the most prolific bottler of single cask, cask strength, single malt whisky. You have to be a member to buy the bottles, but we’ll let you have a taste, and membership is open to all… For more information on the Society visit www.smws.ca or call our Scotch Guy at 403-283-8000 – Fri Dec 2 7pm – $35.00

____________________

If you have any whisky questions or comments concerning The Malt Messenger please contact me by e-mail, phone, or drop by the store. Feel free to forward me any whisky news you feel should be included in a future issue of The Malt Messenger; it might just get included.

All of the products mentioned in THE MALT MESSENGER can be purchased in store, over the phone or from our website at http://www.kensingtonwinemarket.com.. All prices quoted in the Malt Messenger are subject to change!

Thanks for reading the Malt Messenger!

Slainte!

Andrew Ferguson

KWM Scotchguy

403-283-8000

888-283-9004

1257 Kensington Rd. NW

Calgary, AB, Canada

T2N 3P8

scotchguy@kensingtonwinemarket.com

Port Ellen – A Dirty Little Secret

PORT ELLEN —————— A DIRTY LITTLE SECRET

 

Various incarnations of Port Ellen

 

In the snowy month of May, 2011 (remember, this is Canada), I was lucky enough to go back to Scotch Land with a small tour group.  I posed as a hard drinking tourist from Canada with a simple mission: drink as many free drams as offered (over 200), ascertain the total remaining casks of Port Ellen held in trust for me and return to Canada without breaking any bottles in my two suitcases.

Success comes in many forms, but always with consequence.  I was both baptized and enlightened in the lake of single malt that is Speyside, but succumbed to a bad case of liver quiver.  My suitcases proved to be liquid tight, but my Visa seemed to be somehow diminished from the constant friction of use.  The main purpose of uncovering the remaining stocks of Port Ellen was met with only modest success but came at a high cost of fallen friends.  Nothing quite prepares you for the sight of facing your comrades (No last names, Richard, Peter, Andrew and his son) in the morning following the prior day’s itinerary, starting with a morning of whisky sampling, followed by a whisky and lunch pairing, afternoon of whisky sampling, aperitif pre-dinner sharpener whisky, whisky and dinner pairing, after dinner dessert whisky and capped off by a long night of whisky bar scrambling.

Port Ellen Distillery, for the benefit of the great unwashed, was built in 1825, temporarily closed between 1929 and 1966, and then operated up to its demise in 1983.  Diageo, or UDV at the time, decided that Caol Ila was better than Port Ellen and Port Ellen was surplus to demand, so went about converting the distillery into a permanent malting facility, which it remains today.

With Gordon & MacPhail, Diageo and Douglas Laing unwilling to disclose their remaining stock of Port Ellen casks, one will just have to take a shot in the dark at their remaining cask inventory.  The following is a profession BBBG* of the remaining casks of Port Ellen held in Scotland:

1 – Cadenhead.  Asked on the Royal Mile and was told they have none left.

2 – Single Malt Whisky Association.  Edinburgh (yes both locations).  Was told that they have no casks .

3 – Signatory.  During the tour they were more than happy to tell us and even allowed us to take a pictures in their warehouse of their last 2 casks.

4 – All the others (which include Dewar Rattray , Adelphi , Coopers Choice , Duncan Taylor and so on) …………………… BBBG* 4 casks.

5– Gordon & MacPhail (Michael Urquhart).  Asked twice, once on a tour of Benromach, again at a tasting in Gordon & MacPhail offices.  Both times, politely denied.  There was a posting on the internet back in 1995 which suggested that after visiting Gordon & MacPhail’s warehouses, they were told the stocks held by Gordon & MacPhail were diminishing rapidly and Gordon & MacPhail were going to start rationing their remaining Port Ellen inventory.  Given Gordon & MacPhail’s ongoing hoarding ability in being able to put 70 year old casks of single malts on the markets, earns them the number three spot in available casks in the whisky world with an BBBG* 20 casks.

6 – Diageo (The largest drink company on the planet.  At least they can’t advertise the universe (Johnnie Rocket Whisky?)) Diageo has been very secretive and heavy handed about their stocks of Port Ellen.  Just remember, Diageo once had a street named after them, but they had to change the name because nobody crosses Diageo and lives.  There was a posting on the internet claiming to have seen the hidden treasure of remaining casks in a first person vision of 80 casks in May of 2005.  Even though the stated amounts of 80 casks in 2005 (80 casks x 250 bottles per cask is 20,000) have long been used up.  Between 2006 and 2010, 25,368 bottles have been released from their annual releases, another 220 bottles from their 2008 Feis Ile single cask along with an undisclosed amount included in their Johnnie Walker Blue Label special releases.

But here’s the rub…we all know the greatest trick that Diageo (Diablo) ever played was convincing the world that Port Ellen was in short supply.  Given that Diageo is usually short sited in most of what they do, Diageo having more casks than Douglas Laing would mean they would be smarter than Douglas Laing, which I would never concede.  So I would BBBG* their remaining inventory at 40 casks which would be approximately 9,000 to 10,000 bottles, of which I believe they will release in a declining amount over the next five years (2011 to 2015).  I would think their remaining casks to be from 1978 & 1979, which would be consistence with their other releases.

I believe they held onto 1978 & 1979 stocks as they were the oldest stock they had left that didn’t already go to blending, plus they had much invested in time and money in quality bourbon casks.  Diageo most likely sold the 1982 and 1983 stock cheaply to the independents, given the overabundance of whisky on the market at the time.  The 1980 & 1981, the missing stock years, which were just or arriving at the three year minimum legal limit for scotch whisky, were probably put into the Diageo peated blends, like JW Black & JW Blue, never to be seen again, and only appreciated if you happen to come across an older bottle from the mid to late eighties.

7 – Douglas Laing (The upstarts of independents, according to Gordon & MacPhail).  Seems to have more remaining stock of Port Ellen than Diageo and all the independents combined, and if managed carefully will last for generations (with deep pockets) to come.  This foresight of buying so many casks of Port Ellen, I believe, can be attributed to Fred Douglas Laing Senior and his love for Port Ellen, although at the time of purchase it was most likely to be a smoky component to one of their blends and not a single malt.

Port Ellen is a jewel in the crown of the Douglas Laing inventory, and Old Malt Cask at 50 % ABV in a Sherry cask is a personal favorite of mine.  On the third floor of Douglas House on Lynedoch Crescent we had the good fortune of trying numerous samples of Port Ellen (along with other single malts), in hopes of bringing yet another cask to Calgary.  Our host for the visit was Lorraine and when I popped the question (how many casks are in the Douglas Laing inventory?), the response was “ee…er…ee…er…ee…”, which I interpreted from Scottish to Canadian as, “if I told you, I’ve have to kill you, eh, you hoser”.

Douglas Laing and sister companies et al., have been releasing Port Ellen in most of their ranges, from Old & Rare Platinum (dump the burnt pine wood boxes with the bad glue jobs), Old Malt Cask (please no more low neck bottles), Provenance, Douglas of Drumlanrig, Premier Barrel ceramic decanter (please put better cork / caps in these bottles and pack them better), Old Malt Cask Advance samples and let’s not forget Big Peat, with a small shovelful of Port Ellen per bottle in a blend of scotch malts.  I would BBBG* their remaining stock to 81 casks, which is double Diageo plus one.  I would think most of their remaining stock to be from 1982 & 1983, but they would also have some older stock in reserve for their Platinum line.

 

In summary I BBBG* the total remaining inventory of casks (not current bottles on the shelf) and PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I’M WRONG, to be 147 casks, or approximately 40,000 bottles, given some of the remaining casks from Douglas Laing are probably larger Sherry Butts.

To honor this forever lost distillery (more of an excuse to drink), I sat down with Curt, Jay and Pat of All Things Whisky and we enjoyed five different bottlings of Port Ellen.  Curt and I decided to post our tasting notes together on this venture.

 

Port Ellen Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice 1982

 

PORT ELLEN Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice 1982 – 2003

40% ABV 21 Years Old

 

CURT

NOSE:  Citrus bites first.  Peat and smoke, wood smoke (not quite as bold as a mesquite or hickory, but very pronounced nevertheless).  Herbal.  Grassy.  Soft vanilla.

PALATE:  Waxy.  Thin burnt notes.  Smoked fruit skins.  Smoke hangs on and dries out nicely.

THOUGHTS:  Palate doesn’t quite deliver what the nose hints at.  Thin in terms of flavor and mouth feel.  Still a great drink, but heartbreaking it saw so much water added.  Fourth favorite of the night.

 

MALTMONSTER

NOSE:  Bud-lite smoke.  Farmy.  Lemons and a hint of orange.

TASTE:  Sweet and salty are battling it out on the taste buds.  Grapefruit rules.

FINISH:  Medium…maybe a bit more.

ASSESSMENT:  No need to add water to a drowning drink.  Port Ellen needs to be at a higher ABV to work well.  Fourth favorite of the night.

 

Port Ellen Diageo 6th Annual Release

 

PORT ELLEN Diageo 6th Annual Release 1978 – 2006

54.2% ABV 27 Years Old, Bottle # 3251 of 4560 Bottles

 

CURT

NOSE:  Creamy toffee/caramel.  Lemon Polish/Lemon Pledge.  Brine.  Salted Greens.  Fruit Cocktail (mélange of maraschino cherry, pear, orange, peach…all mild and dilute).  Smoke and peat.

PALATE:  Peppery Licorice.  Tar and iodine.  Peat.  Fades into Granny Smith Apple.  Long and smoky finish.

THOUGHTS:  Best nose of the night.  This is exactly what I think of when I think PE.  Love it.  Best PE of the night, hands down.

 

MALTMONSTER

NOSE:  Floor polish.  Smoked kippers.  Lemon pepper.  Low tide and vanilla.

TASTE:  Musty.  Black liquorice.  Iodine.

FINISH:  Medium to long.  Fades quickly.

ASSESSMENT:  Not just any Port in a storm of independents, what I would describe as typical and predictable Port Ellen style.  Second favorite of the night (sucker for balanced sherry).

 

Port Ellen OMC 26 Years Old Rum Finished

 

PORT ELLEN Douglas Laing Old Malt Cask December 1979 – November 2006

50% ABV 26 Years Old Rum Finished, Cask # 3081 of 342 Bottles

 

CURT

NOSE:  Rubber Bands.  Glue.  Oily and fishy (think canned sardines).  Aged rum.  Mild smoke and citric tanginess.

PALATE:  Rum almost disappears on the tongue.  Tarry and rubbery.  Cooked greens.  Lemon pepper.  Long finish that shows almost no sign of the rum influence.  Odd.

THOUGHTS:  WTF?!  Palate is much better than the nose.  Nose is almost off-putting.  Does get a little more relaxed with time to open.  Unrecognizable to me as a PE.  Hard to dissect with the rubbery notes from the rum running interference.  Least favorite of the night.

 

MALTMONSTER

NOSE:  Wet cardboard and fishy chum delight.  This is where the rubber hits the road.  Floral.  Aarrrrrr!  This is sickly sweet.  Might improve mixing (drowning) with coke.

TASTE:  Much better than the nose.  Citrus, kiwi and burnt butter.

FINISH:  Medium to long.

ASSESSMENT:  Pirate Jack & Parrot Pete can’t save the nose on this malt.  Will send the remnants of this bottle to Edmonton for recycling.  It’s said that they are a dirty people and will drink anything.

 

Port Ellen OMC 1983

 

PORT ELLEN Douglas Laing Old Malt Cask March 1983 – February 2006

50% ABV 22 Years Old Refill Sherry Butt, Cask # 2116 of 660 Bottles

 

CURT

NOSE:  Very subdued peat at first.  Malty.  Rye bread.  Smoke.  Dusty dried fruit.  Chocolate.  Citrus.  Seaside.

PALATE:  Dried fruits seem more vibrant here…almost like fresh fruit.  Smoky and long.  Pleasantly drying

THOUGHTS:  Third favorite of the night.  Great dram and quite PE-ish with a slight malty twist.

 

MALT MONSTER

NOSE:  Farmy.  Smoked oysters.  Oranges & cherries.  Toffee.

TASTE:  Sweet at first getting bitter at the end.  Milk chocolate.  Bit minty and blackberry jam.

FINISH:  Strangely warm at the start, fading quickly.  Medium to long.

ASSESSMENT:  Good example of a sherry butt PE from DL.  Third favorite of the night.

 

Port Ellen Signatory 1982

 

PORT ELLEN Signatory Vintage November 11 , 1982 – December 20 , 2007

57 % ABV 25 Years Old, Cask 2847 Bottle # 111 of 417 Bottles

 

CURT

NOSE:  Chewy and rich.  Burnt notes.  Zest (Citrus…not soap).  Tobacco leaf.  Wet rocks.  Dark fudge.  Smoke and peat.

PALATE:  Chocolate.  Cereal notes.  Muted anise.  Warm spicy arrival.  Mouth coating, thick and oily.

THOUGHTS:  Great balance.  Points for best arrival of the night.  Nice mix of peat and sherry.  Second favorite of the night.

 

MALTMONSTER

NOSE:  Nice aged peat smoke.  Cherries.  Oranges.  Leather.  Caramel.

TASTE:  Lemon.  Pepper.  Liquorice.  Fruity.  Marzipan.

FINISH:  Long and lingering.

ASSESSMENT:  Smoke on the water, fire in the sky, this is my favorite of the night.  Perfect balance of Sherry and Islay malt.

 

Although I don’t generally cry when I drink single malts unless I’ve accidently spilled some, I always seem to tear up when I’m drinking Port Ellen, and pause to remember this poem from Lord Byron:

So we’ll go no more a-roving

So late into the night,

Though the heart still be as loving,

And the moon still be as bright.

For the sword outwears its sheath,

And the soul outwears the breast,

And the heart must pause to breathe,

And love itself have rest.

Though the night was made for loving,

And the day returns too soon,

Yet we’ll go no more a-roving

By the light of the moon.

 

– As always, tender, Maltmonster

– Photos:  Pat (www.standstillphotography.ca)

(BBBG* – Best Bloody Brilliant Guesstimation)

Compass Box – The Building of an Empire

Compass Box – The Building of an Empire

 

The Compass Box empire, like many others throughout history, has been built upon the bedrock of ideas bigger than those its competition.  And like any empire keen on expansion and growth, it has smashed boundaries and razed the old infrastructures to the ground.  This type of forward-thinking and innovation is the stuff most often met with extreme resistance at first, and often made lore in years to come.  Generally a movement such as this is led by an individual of character and charisma.  (I hasten to add, he/she is sadly often martyred!  Thankfully we live in slightly more…forgiving…times.)

As emperor of this young empire, John Glaser now finds himself lording over legions from the far-flung regions of Scotland.  He has taken these small holdings and merged and bent them to his benevolent will.  Fortunately, after a few bitter early battles, John’s vision has been met with not only acceptance, but accolade.

Upon the backs and genius of distillers from all corners of Scotland, Glaser has risen with a new force of daring and might.  This young empire shows no sign of slowing its forward march and progression through the ages.

In honor…ATW takes a brief survey of some of the breeds that make up the Compass Box empire:

 

Photo courtesy of Pat

 

Asyla – 40%

Nose:  Oak, and vanilla.  Lilac, heather and honey.  Orange.

Palate:  Silky delivery of vanilla and firm grains.  Light fresh fruit.

Finish:  It is the woods that linger.  …But not overly long

Assessment:  Mild and beautifully balanced.  Hints of a very mild and aged Laphroaig (?!?  I know!).  While exceptional and unique, still epitomizes Scotch whisky.  Great beginner’s malt.  Would make an excellent aperatif dram as well.

 

Photo courtesy of Pat

 

Oak Cross – 43%

Nose:  Touch of spice.  Mild and homey sweetness.  Toasted grain.  Strong vanilla bean and lavender.  Citrus rind.

Palate:  Depth of wood notes and oak-infused flavors.  A touch of dry tartness.

Finish:  Sweet, but still spicy.  Dries toward the back.

Assessment:  Any day…any time.  Nowhere near the best of the bunch, but that only speaks to the quality of the others…not any lack in this expression.

 

Photo courtesy of Pat

 

The Spice Tree – 46%

Nose:  Wham!  This is brilliant!  Clove.  Spiced cranberry.  Caramel.  Warm and worn-in leather.  Bold and creamy and nearly perfect.

Palate:  Hint of malted barley.  Fruit skins and toffee.  Cinnamon spiced apples.

Finish:  Apple skin and sucking on a cinnamon stick.

Assessment:  Best of the Compass Box line-up.  Primarily from Clynelish, they say.  This has more in common with Brora than contemporary expressions of Clynelish.  Sexy…sexy…sexy!

 

Photo courtesy of Pat

 

The Peat Monster – 46%

Nose:  Sharp tangy Islay bog.  Deep salty smoke and peat.  Iodine and seawater.  Malty.  Lime and kiwi freshness.  Young mashtun notes.  Touch of vanilla snaking through.  Like smoldering vegetation.

Palate:  Smoke, iodine and fruit skins.  Rich and oily.

Finish:  Lingering smoke, tartness and…yeah…smoke.

Assessment:  Seems feisty and young, though apparently all malts within are 10-16 years.  A little sharp.  Not quite my idea of perfect balance, but great nevertheless and very well-made.  An improvement on the Peat Monster of old.

 

Photo courtesy of Pat

 

Flaming Heart – 48.9%

Nose:  Pungent peat (but not Islay peat at the heart…most certainly from the Ardmore).  Tangy.  Floral and vegetal.  Slight peppery bite.  Hint of pear.  Coastal and tarry (Caol Ila, anyone?).  Slightly bread-like and yeasty.  Grains and malt.

Palate:  Malty.  Smoky.  Nutty.  Peaty.  Delivers briny oakiness.

Finish:  Vanilla and dry wood dominate the finish.  Yes…with fading smoke.

Assessment:  Good, but…I hoped for a wee bit more.  Thankfully…I still have a fresh bottle set aside for rainy days.

 

Hedonism Maximus – 46%

Nose:  Rich in sweet toffee grain.  Almost rye-like.  Sweet bourbon.  Fresh orange intensity.  Lightly buttered baking.  Creamy.  Mild nutmeg and cinnamon.  Strata of vanilla.

Palate:  Bourbon-like delivery.  Buttered caramel and oak.  Sweet and chewy like crunching down on freshly picked grain.

Finish:  Drying and fruity.  Subtly…manipulatively…charms its way into staying for a while.

Assessment:  Lovely.  Nose is exceptional.  Palate…quite good.  Would have loved to try this side-by-side with the other Hedonism.  This is aged grain as it is meant to be presented.  Brilliant.

 

Photo courtesy of Pat

 

– All notes:  Curt

Malt Messenger Bulletin – Big, Exciting News… Glenlivet 70 Year is Coming!

Dear Malt Messenger Subscribers,

The Kensington Wine Market is thrilled to announce it will be stocking bottles of the Gordon & MacPhail Generations Glenlivet 70 Year (tied for the world’s oldest whisky ever bottled) beginning in mid August. The release of this 1940 vintage 70 year old Glenlivet is exciting enough, but made even more so because Gordon & MacPhail is also releasing five vintage bottlings of Glenlivet, one each from the 1950’s, 1960’s, 1970’s, 1980’s and 1990’s. Collectively, this release represents six decades in the history of one of Scotland’s most well know distilleries. That it is Gordon & MacPhail who bottled these Glenlivets, and not the distillery, is a testament to the special relationship which has long existed between the two firms. That and the fact that no other company in the world has had the patience and vision to mature whisky to such advanced ages.

This exciting new 70 year old whisky will be exclusive to the Kensington Wine Market in Canada (save for Airport Duty Free shops). We are also the only retail liquor store in the country who will be receiving the five Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Decades and Five Decade Set. This is a very exciting opportunity for the Kensington Wine Market, and one that can’t go unmarked. To celebrate the occasion we are having a event to initiate the launch. We are very pleased to be hosting Michael Urquhart, Co-managing Director of Gordon & MacPhail, for a very rare and exclusive tasting of the Glenlivet 70 Year as well as each of the Five Decades bottlings. On August 25, twenty lucky individuals will have the opportunity to sample this unique range in what is, without doubt, a once in a lifetime tasting opportunity. Initially I was projecting a cost upwards of $400 for this unique experience, but thanks to the generosity of Michael and Gordon & MacPhail, we can offer it for just $200/person. A portion of the proceeds will be donated to a local charity. There is much more below on the Glenlivets and the tasting.

In addition to the exciting news above, we also have a couple of whiskies in stock right now which I’ve been dying to write about for months: The Alberta Premium 30 Year and Highland Park St. Magnus have been on our radar for the last 3-4 months, and while I’ve wanted to make light of them in the Malt Messenger, the fact of the matter is, we’ve had far more demand than supply. Well, the squeaky wheel gets the grease, as the saying goes and I’ve been squeaking in the ear of my Beam Global Canada rep for the better part of the last 3 months. Products like these two are allocated, meaning only certain stores can buy them. We were given generous allocations, but ones too small to meet the demand of our extensive customer base. Other stores were given allocations too, and some of them didn’t appreciate what they’d been given, so the cases sat, and sat and sat. Over the last few months Beam has been reallocating a few cases of each here and there, as they emptied the allocations of those taking too long, putting some of them in ours. But it still wasn’t enough. Demand was outstripping supply, until now. For the first time since these two whiskies were released I finally have enough to put some on the floor and provide the Malt Messenger Diaspora with tasting notes. They are both excellent whiskies, and I’ve included more info on both below. Don’t hesitate. They may both be sold by the weekend!

I hope you enjoyed this Malt Messenger Bulletin! Stay tuned for the next full Malt Messenger with another big announcement, and the balance of my Closed Distilleries of Scotland feature, in about two weeks time.

Slainté!

Andrew Ferguson

PS-Don’t forget you can follow me on Twitter for more timely updates at twitter.com/scotch_guy..

 

GORDON & MACPHAIL GLENLIVET GENERATIONS TASTING  – Thursday August 25th, 7PM – $200

To celebrate the launch of Gordon & MacPhail’s Generations Glenlivet 70 Year and the Private Collection Glenlivet Decades we will be hosting the most exclusive whisky tasting of 2011 on Thursday August 25th! We will be sampling six whiskies representing six decades in the life of the Glenlivet distillery, including a 1940 vintage 70 year old expression. Along with the Mortlach 70 year old Gordon & MacPhail released last year, this is the oldest whisky ever bottled! When I first started looking at this tasting I was forecasting a per person price tag of $500+, but thanks to the generosity of Gordon & MacPhail we’ll be able to do much better than that. Michael Urquhart, Joint Managing Director of Gordon & MacPhail, is making a special trip to Calgary for this amazing tasting event. Michael has generously agreed to bring with him bottles of the 70 year old Glenlivet, as well as the 1954 and 1963 Private Collection Glenlivet vintages. Thanks to his generosity we are pleased to be able to offer 20 people the chance to take part in this once in a lifetime tasting for just $200/person, a considerable amount of which will be going to charity! Our charity of choice for this event is the Children’s Hospital Aid Society or CHAS.

The tasting will take place here at the Kensington Wine Market at 7PM on Thursday August 25th. Participants will be lead through the tasting of the six whiskies by Michael Urquhart, and will all be given a special whisky glass to take home with them. Participants will also have a chance to bid on a special signed press pack containing a book and samples of each of the six whiskies. 100% of the proceeds from this item will be going to our chosen charity. Tickets for this event will go quickly, we’ve already sold 7 of the 20 spaces to people in the know. Tickets can be purchased in store, over the phone at 403-283-8000 and online at https://www.kensingtonwinemarket.com/tastings/register.php..

 

GORDON & MACPHAIL GLENLIVET GENERATIONS 1940 70 YEAR OLD – $21,999.99(700m) $5,999.99(200ml)

Gordon & MacPhail is unique not just among independent bottlers, but among all whisky companies in Scotland, in that it has great vision for and patience with its whisky stocks. Save for Glenfarclas no other company in the whisky industry is even close to possessing Gordon & MacPhail’s depth of old maturing whisky stocks. When Macallan launched their Fine and Rare line of vintage single malts a decade ago, rumour has it most of the casks came from Gordon & MacPhail. In the case of Glenfarclas their stocks go back only to the 1950’s, but Gordon & MacPhail has casks from the 1940’s and even a few from the late 1930’s. That’s how it’s been able to release not one, but two different 70 year old whiskies within the last year.

Only 100 700ml decanters of this rare whisky and 175 of the 200ml variety are being released worldwide. The whisky, filled into cask in 1940 at the height of the Battle of Britain, has been bottled at its natural cask strength of 45.9% after maturing 70 years in a single First Fill Sherry Butt. The hand blown crystal decanters are in the shape of a tear and have a British Hallmarked silver stopper. The decanter is cradled in a sterling silver base, in a bespoke Scottish Elm box handmade in Scotland.

I had a chance to sample the whisky in March at a whisky show in Las Vegas, and will reproduce my tasting note below along with those of Malt Advocate and Lawrence Graham of Whisky Intelligence.

Lawrence Graham, Whisky Intelligence: “The nose is refined, speaks of some age (although not of 70 years), hints of heather, sherry, plump raisins and some fruit in the form of apricots and lychee. There’s also some oak spice an hints of pepper however this is very subtle. Hints of bees wax, a waft of tobacco (like walking down wind of a curing shed). Some hand warming brings out some malt which nicely ties everything together. The aromas are really a delight and the more times spent in the glass the more that is revealed; all it takes is a little hand warming and the myriad of delicate aromas waft up. It really is quite sensational. The taste is honeyed but also has an immediate malt delivery quickly followed by some oak notes (oak spiciness, a little leather and tobacco) followed by the fruit. Some moments later it turns a little dry along with some banana (but more like they’ve flambéed). Once again quite sensational. Well done. The finish is quite long and very representative of the afore mentioned descriptors in the nose and the taste. It’s quite long and holds together very well, it doesn’t go off in some unhappy direction. Perhaps a hint of smoke at the tail end?” 91pts

“Gordon & MacPhail Generations: The Glenlivet 70 year old, 45.9%  You would expect any 70 year old whisky to be crepuscular, dense, and wooded. Not here. The nose is amazingly fresh — distillery character fully intact — with layers of rancio and heavy florals. In time, there’s candle wax, vanilla, milk chocolate, and a touch of leather, even the whiff of a soft mink stole. Concentrated and complex. The palate is like an ancient vin santo with oxidized nuttiness, quince and medlar, and subtle peat. Hugely expressive on the palate, with a sweet finish. Truly remarkable.” – Dave Broom 90pts

Gordon & MacPhail Generation Glenlivet 70 Year – 45.9% – 100 Numbered Bottles – My Tasting Note: Nose: peaches and cream, mulled fruits, hard candies and fruit leather with some deft Christmas Cake notes; it is like opening a fresh bag of assorted jujubes on a new leather sofa, and there is something vaguely smoky (it was after all the war years and coal was in high demand); Palate: soft and so, so delicate, surprisingly some soft smoky notes to start with more peaches and cream and the softest-warming-buttery fruit imaginable; it becomes richer as the palate develops with brown sugar and spices: cinnamon, cardamom, clove and ginger; leather and tobacco notes also develop but remain delicate and smooth; there are so many layers to this whisky: citrus, smoke, soft coating oils and much, much, more; nutty tones and vanilla; I can’t believe how gentle this whisky is, and how soft the oak; Finish: long and warming, sweet with subtle spice and nutty oak, my palate is moist, damp and coated with soft oils; Comments: much more than I ever expected a 70 year old whisky could be and more complex and far less oaky than expected!

 

GORDON & MACPHAIL PRIVATE COLLECTION GLENLIVET DECADES

As mentioned above, we are also receiving five vintages of Glenlivet representing five decades in the history of the distillery, six when combined with the seventy year old. Here are some details on those bottlings:

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 5 Decade Set – 50 Sets Available World Wide– Only 1 set to Alberta – 1 bottle each of the following vintages: 1954, 1963, 1974, 1980 and 1991. – $5664.99

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 1954 – 56 Year – 135 bottles – Only 6 bottles to Alberta – 50.6% – First Fill Sherry Hogshead – Tasting Notes to Come in a Future Malt Messenger – $2193.99

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 1963 – 47 Year – 169 bottles – Only 6 bottles to Alberta –  40.6% – First Fill American Oak Hogshead – Tasting Notes to Come in a Future Malt Messenger – $1325.99

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 1974 – 36 Year 189 bottles – Only 6 bottles to Alberta – 50.1% – First Fill Sherry Hogshead – Tasting Notes to Come in a Future Malt Messenger – $923.99

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 1980 – 30 Year – 61 bottles – Only 3 bottles to Alberta – 48.5% – Refill American Oak Hogshead – Tasting Notes to Come in a Future Malt Messenger – $496.99

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Glenlivet 1991 – 19 Year – 203 bottles – Only 6 bottles to Alberta – 54.4% – Refill Sherry Hogshead – Tasting Notes to Come in a Future Malt Messenger – $202.99

 

HIGHLAND PARK ST MAGNUS – $124.99                (Limit 2/Customer)

Highland Park has released a trilogy of whiskies over the last few years bottled at a higher strength than their traditional bottlings. The first was the Earl Magnus, a 15 year old bottled at 52.6%, named after the legendary leader of the island. This second bottling is also named after the same Earl Magnus, but called St. Magnus. The St. Magnus is a 12 year old cask strength bottled at 55% with a subtle sherry influence. Magnus was co-ruler of the Orkney’s until betrayed by his cousin the other Earl, Haakon. Magnus was sainted just 20 years after his death, and I’ll let you guess who the third bottling in the series is named after. We long ago sold out of our generous allocations of this whisky, and have since then been hounding the supplier for as many additional bottles as they can spare. Of the 84 bottles we’d previously received all but 3 of them were sold before we could put a single bottle on the floor. We are getting but 12 bottles in this week, of which 6 are already spoken for; the rest will be sold in very short order. The original limit of 2 bottles per customer stands. I’ve included my tasting note as well as that of John Hansel of Malt Advocate.

“Highland Park, “Saint Magnus,” 12 year old, 55%, £85 The second in a series of three high-strength, limited-edition Highland Park whiskeys, and a rather bold expression. Nicely sherried and noticeably smoky—more than a standard Highland Park. Quite spicy too—cinnamon, but also ginger and nutmeg. Throw in some toffee apple, Cointreau, and waxed fruit (towards the finish) for intrigue. Long, sherried, smoky finish. A very exciting Highland Park.” 92pts John Hansel, Malt Advocate Magazine

Highland Park St. Magnus – 55% – 12 Year – My Tasting Note: Nose: very appley, with green and candied apples, peaches, heather honey and musty earthen floors (like those in a dunnage warehouse); the nose is tight but within its constraints that are lots of bold aromas which you have to work for; later I get notes of treacle, wood smoke and dark chocolate; Palate: dark, fruity and earthy with rich sherry notes, thick but yielding peat and more heather honey; the palate is very viscous and oily with far more peat than you typically associate with Highland Park, and that is what really strikes me; Highland Park is famous for the soft chocolaty peat they harvest from Hobbister’s Hill(moor), and there’s much more of it here than in the standard 12 year; the white fruits and apples provide a sweet decadent edge to the whisky complimenting the heather honey and toning down the surging peat; there is youthful barley notes too, but they are late to the show; Finish: very sweet and softly drying with more chocolaty peat and apples; the finish is long and its mouth-coating oils linger long after the last sip retaining flavours of honey, chewy barley and soft peat smoke; Comments: this is no sherry-heavy Highland Park like the 18 year, but it has as much depth and character as the distillery’s flagship brand; this is an excellent whisky for a reasonable price that just happens to be beautifully packaged! – $124.99

 

 

ALBERTA PREMIUM 30YEAR – $54.99       (Limit 2/Customer)

Alberta Premium jumped onto the world screen a few years back when the whisky and its distillery was single out by Jim Murray of Whisky Bible fame as the number one whisky in Canada and one of the top whiskies in the world. The whisky has long been unique, being one of the few 100% Rye whiskies produced in Canada. Although “Rye” has long been a pseudonym for Canadian whisky, the fact of the matter is that most Canadian whisky has been made primarily from corn for a very long time, and there is nearly as much Rye whiskey made in the United States as Canada.

After the success of the regular Alberta Premium the distillery launched a special 25 year old expression in late 2007, which was named Canadian whisky of the year in the 2008 Whisky Bible. Curiously the whisky was released with little fanfare and with a shelf tag of less than $30 (the regular $5 year old version being around $23) and was little more than a curiosity. Initially few people took it seriously partly because it was Canadian and party because it was priced too low. It wasn’t until long after the whisky was sold out that its reputation started to grow and the broader public starting searching out bottles. It is for this reason that when rumours of a 30 year old Alberta Premium release started trickling out late in 2010 the buzz in the whisky community made sure it would be snapped up quickly.

The story of Alberta Premium 30 year goes back to 1946 when Max Bell and Frank McMahon two notable Calgary community builders decided it was time for Calgary to have its own distillery. The dry climate around Calgary was perfect for growing Rye and a natural aquifer under the city’s Ogden neighbourhood provided the perfect water for producing a fine Rye whisky. Within a few years Alberta distillers was producing more unmalted  rye spirit(must be two years in oak before it can be called whisky) than all other North American distilleries combined. 65 years later Alberta Distillers is still the largest producer of straight rye whisky in the world and the single largest consumer of Canadian rye grains. Today the vast majority of Alberta Distiller’s production is consumed within Canada. In 2007, the same year that the distillery bottled its first 25 year old expression, a parcel of casks filled in 1981 was re-married into a smaller number to preserve the whisky’s strength. These casks were bottled in 2011 yielding just 8400 bottles.

8400 bottles may sound like a lot, but in fact it is a drop in the bucket in the grand scheme of things. All 72 bottles of this whisky that Kensington Wine Market has previously acquired sold out before they hit the floor. Over the last few months I have been hounding Beam Global for every unclaimed case that other stores didn’t purchase, and all of these cases too have sold. Last week they informed me we had another 30 bottles coming our way. These bottles came in yesterday, Wednesday July 27th and they won’t last long. The original restrictions still hold, it is limited to 2 bottles per customer while supplies last.

Alberta Premium 30 Year – 40% – American Oak Matured – 100% Unmalted Rye – My Tasting Note: Nose: thick and syrupy on the nose with dark fruits and that distinct earthy/oily character possessed by most true Rye whiskies; thick with Panda brand black liquorice, liquorice all sorts, fruit leather and Teriyaki BBQ beef jerky; Palate: soft, sweet and layered with oils that are crossed by tendrils of spice, dark fruits and more Teriyaki BBQ beef jerky; I find the palate salty with more black liquorice, dried spices and some candied fruits; there are also notes of Ruby port and thick pancake syrup notes; truly though it is the spices which reign supreme with all kinds but ginger by far the most dominant; Finish: drying and sweet with more spices, Ruby port, and some tangy oak notes more reminiscent of very old Tequila than whisky; Comments: there is much more elegance to this whisky than the regular bottling, though it retains its full throttle character, and at $55/bottle, you’d be a fool not to buy one, just to try it! – $54.99

 

____________________

If you have any whisky questions or comments concerning The Malt Messenger please contact me by e-mail, phone, or drop by the store. Feel free to forward me any whisky news you feel should be included in a future issue of The Malt Messenger; it might just get included.

All of the products mentioned in THE MALT MESSENGER can be purchased in store, over the phone or from our website at www.kensingtonwinemarket.com.. All prices quoted in the Malt Messenger are subject to change!

 

Thanks for reading the Malt Messenger!

 

Slainte!

 

Andrew Ferguson
KWM Scotchguy

403-283-8000
888-283-9004
1257 Kensington Rd. NW
Calgary, AB, Canada
T2N 3P8

scotchguy@kensingtonwinemarket.com

Bruichladdich – Legacy

BRUICHLADDICH TASTING

LEGACY SERIES – ONE TO SIX / DNA 1&2 / 40 YEAR OLD

 

What does LEGACY mean as its applies to this series of whiskies tasted?  We, the gang of four (almost the gang of three, after a heated debate over scoring) set out to answer this question.  Tempers were stemmed after one of the gang of four reminded us that burying a body in the ground might prove to be difficult after one’s been drinking.

The Legacy here is in the stock of whisky laid down prior to the distillery being mothballed in 1994.  And in the stillmen who worked there before the production went silent.  Stillmen like Neil MacTaggart, who started at Bruichladdich in 1970; Duncan McGillivray in 1974 (sorry for breaking your sod cutter/lifter back in 2008); and Duncan MacFadyen in 1989, who came back in 2001 to continue production.  The Legacy is also in the rich history, starting with the brothers William, John and Robert Harvey who built the distillery in 1881, up on the bank near the shores of Loch Indaal and named it as such.

I believe that the distillery workers and the owners of Bruichladdich, past and present, collectively set out to make the FINEST SPIRIT that could be made, as they draw great pride (also daily drams) from their jobs.  This legacy quote from Woodrow Wilson summarizes how I feel about whisky making:  “You are not here merely to make a living.  You are here to enable the world to live more amply, with greater vision, and with a FINER SPIRIT of hope and achievement.  You are here to enrich the world.  You impoverish yourself if you forget this errand”.

What is the future of Bruichladdich and the continued  legacy of this great establishment?  It is no secret that Andrew Grey is no longer working for the distillery, rumors of a sale persist, an unwelcome recession has hurt cash flow, along with delaying plans to start up a second distillery at Port Charlotte and criticism still abounds over the amount of expressions on the market.  But people come and go, every distillery sells sooner or later, the economy will rebound and having a greater choice in your whisky section is always a good thing.  If the current ownership were to sell (PLEASE, JUST NOT TO DIAGEO!!!) the legacy left behind by Andrew Grey, Jim McEwan (please never stick your finger in my whisky glass again), Mark Reynier, Simon Coughlin and the other thirty plus owners and employees, would be tasted for years to come and all the innovation and hard work would be realized by both the future owners and by us, the whisky drudges and judges.

 

 

LEGACY #1   –   36 YEAR OLD  40.6% ABV BOTTLED 2002 BOTTLE #896

NOSE:  Honey, butter, floral, fruity.

TASTE:  Cinnamon, raspberry/strawberry.  Very sweet.

FINISH:  Medium to long.  Tad briny.

ASSESSMENT:  Nice and pleasant to drink.

RATED:  #5 of the six Legacy series and #8 overall

 

LEGACY #2   –  37 YEAR OLD 41.8% ABV BOTTLED 2003 BOTTLE #972 OF 1500

NOSE:  Punchy peach.  Grassy.

TASTE:  Sweet, nutty.

FINISH:  Medium, little dry.

ASSESSMENT:  Worn down by age.  I think I can taste Jim McEwan’s finger in this one.

RATED:  #6 of the Legacy series and #9 overall.

 

LEGACY #3  –   35 YEAR OLD 40.7% ABV BOTTLED 2004 BOTTLE #206 OF 1572

NOSE:  Butterscotch, very creamy.  Fruity.

TASTE:  Almost tropical.  Chewy.

FINISH:  Great long smooth finish.

ASSESSMENT:  Reminds me of eating fresh strawberries with clotted cream at Wimbledon.

RATED:  #1 of the Legacy series and #3 overall.

 

LEGACY #4  –    32 YEAR OLD 47.5% ABV BOTTLED 2005 BOTTLE #129 OF 820

NOSE:  Apples & raisins.  Spices.

TASTE:  Honey. Botanicals.  The sweet honey coats your tongue.

FINISH:  Long and warming.

ASSESSMENT:  Like drinking liquid gold.  Similar to the 1970.

RATED:  #4 of the legacy series and #6 overall.

 

LEGACY #5   –   33 YEAR OLD 40.9% ABV BOTTLED 2006 BOTTLE # 993 OF 1690

NOSE:  Oaky.  Caramel and almonds .  Apricots.

TASTE:  Very demure.  Sweet.  Licorice.

FINISH:  Creamy.  Medium.

ASSESSMENT:  Not a bad expression of an older Bruichladdich.

RATED:  #3 of the legacy series and  #5 overall.

 

LEGACY #6   –   34 YEAR OLD 41.0% ABV BOTTLED 2007 BOTTLE #170 OF 1704

NOSE:  Light and dark fruits.  Honey and mint.

TASTE:  Cream.  Cherries and cinnamon.

FINISH:  Medium and very light.

ASSESSMENT:  Completely lip-smacking.

RATED:  #2 of the legacy series and #4 overall.

 

 

DNA #1   –   36 YEAR OLD 41.0% ABV BOTTLE #673 BOURBON & SHERRY CASKS  FROM SIXTIES & SEVENTIES FINISHED IN CHATEAU LE PIN WINE CASKS

NOSE:  Candied cherries.  Floral and some honey.

TASTE:  Vanilla, milk chocolate.  Raisins.

FINISH:  Long.  Little dry.  Fades gently at the end.

ASSESSMENT:  What a great drink.  Could drink this all day long.

RATED:  #1 of the DNA series and #2 overall.

 

DNA #2  –   32 YEAR OLD 47.4% ABV DISTILLED 1977 BOTTLED 2009 BOTTLE # 385 OF 844

NOSE:  Musty.  Spearmint.  Butterscotch.

TASTE:  Licorice.  Chocolate.  Nutty.

FINISH:  Crisp and long.

ASSESSMENT:  Nice drink to savor.

RATED:  #2 of the DNA series and #7 overall.

 

40 YEAR OLD  43.1% ABV  DISTILLED OCTOBER 24 , 1964 BOTTLED 2004  BOTTLE #230 OF 550

NOSE:  Minty fresh bourbon.  Farmy.  Ripe melons.

TASTE:  Tropical and much more.  Creamy.

FINISH:  Long and enjoyable.  Bit briny at the end.

ASSESSMENT:  Number one favorite of the night.  Best expression of Bruichladdich I have ever tasted.

RATED:  #1 overall.

 

 

*Please, Bruichladdich, buy back as many privately owned casks as you can find, to bottle more of the 40 year!

It seems that whenever  it comes to Bruichladdich, for every action there is an equal and opposite criticism, more so than any other Distillery.

 

– Maltmonster

Maker’s Mark – The Charm of a Southern Belle

The Charm of a Southern Belle

Deep in the heart of Kentucky, on the banks of Hardin’s Creek, there rests a tiny little burg called Loretto.  Aside from downhome charm and quaint Southern beauty, this Marion County ‘city’ offers the world something equally full of heart and character.

That something is Maker’s Mark bourbon.

At once steeped in tradition and forging new paths, the Maker’s distillery is a veritable treasure in the American whiskey scene.  The distillery has been producing in its current incarnation since 1954, though under other guises production on site began as early as 1805.

The bourbon we know today is one of premium prestige and affordable approachability.

Maker’s characteristic sweetness, heft (45%) and spice have made it a household name globally, while the bourbon’s unique mashbill (70% corn, 16% red winter wheat and 14% malted barley) allows us a drink that sparkles like a gem in the formidable gold setting that comprises the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.

The classy addition of the red wax dipped neck makes this a bourbon sans compare.

One final personal bias I have to add…any bourbon known as a ‘whisky’ and not a ‘whiskey’, for some inexplicable reason, also scores an extra point or two from this guy.

 

 

Maker’s Mark – New Make Spirit

Details:  Clear as a virgin’s conscience.  ABV unknown.  AKA ‘white dog’ as American new-make spirit.

Nose:  Big raw grains and orchard fruit.  Mild waxy notes.  Somewhat plastic.  Foot-like and alcoholic.  Lacks the rich fruity dessert notes of mature Maker’s, but the shadow is there.

Palate:  Cherry lip balm and grain liquor.  Raw and footy.  Definitely needs wood influence.  The potential is barely recognizable (again…just hints).  Finish is primarily corn.

Verdict:  A little aggressive.  Not in terms of alcoholic bite or anything, but in a somewhat cloying foot odor that is hard to get around.  The spice, vanilla and fruit that so characterizes Maker’s Mark is obviously not here yet due to the lack of wood influence.  There is something almost plastic-like in this ‘just off the still’ juice.  Not for the faint-hearted.

 

Maker's Mark Original Red Seal

 

Maker’s Mark – Original Red Seal

Details:  Aged between 6 and 7 ½ years.  Rich honeyed-amber color.

Nose:  Honeyed fruit.  Corn and oak.  Rich cherry spice and creamy dessert notes.  Hint of toffee and vanilla.  Mild Cacao.  Wax (think lip balm).  Just a hint, fleeting, of something sharp and green.

Palate:  Oak carries vanilla and spices.  Hint of mint.  Honeyed grains and cherry.  Finish is corn/grain and oaked cherry.

Verdict:  Biggest fruity notes of all.  Deep and mysterious.  Charming as hell.  The fruit marries oh so well with the spice and wood and the vanilla tempers everything beautifully.  A must have in any whisky cabinet, methinks.

 

Maker's Mark 46

 

Maker’s Mark – 46

Details:  Starts off as standard mature Maker’s Mark aged 6 to 7 ½ years.  Seared oak staves are inserted into the cask to add a caramelized sugar depth before the cask is resealed to mature for a few months longer.  The ‘46’ refers to the batch experiment that finally ‘made the cut’ so to speak.

Nose:  Wax (lypsyl).  More caramel and vanilla than standard Maker’s, and a touch less fruit.  Healthy hint of maple.  Fruity, but less cherry than I would expect from this distillery.  Dusty corn.  Vanilla and a mild nutmeg.

Palate:  Spiced corn and youthful fruit.  Fades into throbbing popcorn and fruit-tinged finish.  Oak holds on a little too.

Verdict:  Beautiful variant on the Maker’s Mark standard.  Better?  In terms of composition…perhaps a touch.  In terms of enjoyment…hmmm…tough call.  More mature and mellow anyway.  Even a few more months in wood in the Kentucky clime allows for a more mature spirit.

 

Southern Beauty

 

– Notes:  Curt

          – Photos:  Pat (www.standstillphotography.ca)

1972 Glendronach

TASTING OF TWO  1972 GLENDRONACH
CANADA & SWEDEN

 

In order to try a repair the rift that exists between Canada and Sweden over the 1994 Olympic games, after  Sweden took the gold medal in hockey from us in an overtime shootout and then went on to make a postage stamp with the winning goal on it, I thought it would be appropriate, as sign of good faith, to do tasting notes in both official languages.  Please excuse my heartfelt
attempt to translate these notes properly, as some of the meaning might be lost in the translation.

 

 

1972 CASK # 718   38 YEAR OLD 51.5% ABV  BOTTLE # 313 OF 396
MARCH 2 1972 – JUNE 2010.  OLOROSO SHERRY BUTT.

NOSE: Oranges.  Varnish.  Coffee bean and lavender.  Raspberry.  Burnt butter.

“Potatis, köttbullar, sill.”

TASTE: Dark chocolate.  Bitter tannins.  Black pepper and mint.

“Färgade smaksatt vodka.”

FINISH: Long and warming

“Längre än Tiger Woods marrigae löfte.”

ASSESSMENT: Good expression of Glendronach, but it’s hard to get past that one off note of varnish on the nose.

“Detta är bättre än Dolph Lundgren är en skådespelare och mindre störande än att sätta ihop Ikea-möbler.”

 

 

1972 CASK # 711 39 YEAR OLD  ABV – CASK STRENGTH,  ADVANCE SAMPLE FOR KENSGINGTON WINE MARKET.  OLOROSO SHERRY BUTT.

NOSE: Fruit explosion.  Pineapple, bananas, mango, melons, cherries and oranges.  Cocoa and mint.

“Kål renar, inlagd sill.”

TASTE: Melons and prunes.  Tannins from the sherry.  Raisins, coffee and cinnamon.

“Färgade smaksatt vodka.”

FINISH: Long and fantastic.  Begins creamy & spicy, then warms up and fades gently.  Little briny at the back end.

“Ungefär lika länge som en Abba-musikalen.”

ASSESSMENT: Complex and balanced older sherry fruit bomb.  What a nose!  Would put this whisky right between the Black Bowmore and the Glenfarclas 40 year old.

“Detta är whisky att Sedin tvillingarna skulle ha firat med om de hade visat upp och spelade i sista matchen i Stanley Cup-finalen.”

 

– Sincerely, Maltmonster

ODE TO BLACK BOWMORE

ODE TO………………BLACK BOWMORE

 

Once upon a midnight dreary, while I pondered, weak and weary,

Over many a quaint and curious whiskies of forgotten lore,

While I nodded, nearly napping, suddenly there came a tapping,

As of someone gently rapping, rapping at my liquor cabinet door.

“‘Tis some visitor,” I muttered, “tapping at my liquor cabinet door

Only this, the famous Black Bowmore.”

 

 

To honor the famous Black Bowmore we gathered together again, the infamous gang of four, to taste this thing of lore.

Some of us have tried the Black Bowmore, along with the White Bowmore and the Gold Bowmore, but never have any of us tried all three together in a vertical tasting.  We also had a chance, due to one generous sole in our infamous gang of four, to try some older, and equally as good, Bowmore.

So on a wet and dreary night in June we banded together to taste and ponder a few Bowmore and nothing more…

 

15 YEAR OLD  MARINER SCREENPRINT LABLE  43% ABV  BOTTLED
APPROXIMATELY 1994  2ND  RELEASE  OF THE 15 YEAR OLD

NOSE: Oranges and burnt toast.  Marzipan.  Fudge.

TASTE: Peat.  Little fruit.  Briny and creamy.

FINISH: Medium to long.

ASSESSMENT: Great expression of a younger Bowmore that was outstanding.  Only wish the younger Bowmore of today could be as good.

 

21 YEAR OLD 43 % ABV   PHASED OUT  FOR THE 25 YEAR OLD

NOSE: Big old fat juicy peach.  Strawberries and Cherries.  Honey.

TASTE: Peach & cream in harmony.  Buttery.  Little mint.

FINISH: Medium.  Wee bit a salt at the very end.

ASSESSMENT: Little peat or brine at this age.

 

25 YEAR OLD 43% ABV  BLUE MOONLIGHT OVER BOWMORE  & SEA
GULLS CERAMIC BOTTLE

NOSE: Light tropical fruit.  Coffee and dark chocolate.  Bit floral.

TASTE: Toffee.  Licorice.  Infused dark fruits.  Pomegranates.

FINISH: Medium to long.  Fades away nicely.

ASSESSMENT: Rich and complex drink.

 

30 YEAR OLD 43% ABV BLACK SEA DRAGON CERAMIC BOTTLE

NOSE: Tropical fruit, but less than the 25.  Oranges, cherries, melons and apples.  Oaky and maybe a bit of charcoal.

TASTE: Cherries and sherry cask imparted spice.  Marzipan.  Mint and dark chocolate.

FINISH: Medium to long.  Brine arrives at the end.

ASSESSMENT: What a great bottle and great expression of a fruity Bowmore.  I remember they had a hard time selling these for less than $200 in Calgary back in 2002, If I had only bought more.

 

34 YEAR OLD 1971 51% ABV  BOTTLE # 761 OF 960

NOSE: Earthy.  Coffee beans.  Tobacco and dark chocolate.

TASTE: Nutmeg.  Spicy sherry notes.

FINISH: Medium to long.

ASSESSMENT: Probably mixed one bad cask with a good one or two to hide it.

 

37 YEAR OLD  1968 43.3% ABV  BOTTLE # 683 OF 708

NOSE: Tropical fruit explosion!  Grapefruit & orange.  Minty sweet Bourbon.

TASTE: Again you get pleasantly assaulted by the tropical fruit.  Bananas.  Little spice and Briny.

FINISH: Long.  Absolutely no peat.  Fades nicely with a little salt at the end.

ASSESSMENT: Nose is in the Black Bowmore range.  Incredible whisky, was not prepared for how good this was.

 

42 YEAR OLD 1964 40.5% ABV  BOTTLE # 668 OF 827 BLACK BOWMORE
BOTTLED 2007,  4TH AND FINAL RELEASE , VATTED FROM ONLY OLOROSO CASKS

NOSE: Fruit bomb!  If you can think of the fruit, you can find it in this five alive fruit cocktail.  Milk chocolate.  Coffee bean.
Minty and little vanilla.

TASTE: Oranges & cherries.  Dark chocolate.  Licorice.

FINISH: Long and fades nicely with the memory of the nose.

ASSESSMENT: They state it was a vatting of Oloroso casks from 1964, but methinks that there is a possibility that maybe a bourbon cask was dumped into the sherry cask, as there is some sweet hints of vanilla.  The wow factor maybe in order here. What a nose.  This whisky could bring any rum child to instant conversion into a whisky man or woman.

 

43 YEAR OLD 1964 42.8% ABV  BOTTLE # 673 OF 732 WHITE BOWMORE, BOTTLED 2008 , VATTING OF SIX BOURBON CASKS

NOSE: Tropical fruits, but much more subtle.  Floral.  Winey notes.  Little oaky.

TASTE: Overwhelming amount of fruits.  Vanilla.  Oaky and dry.

FINISH: Long.  Very smooth and enjoyable.

ASSESSMENT: Past its prime.  Would have been better to bottle this a few years earlier.

 

44 YEAR OLD 1964 42.4% ABV BOTTLE # 156 OF 701 GOLD BOWMORE ,
BOTTLED 2009 , VATTING OF BOURBON AND ONE OLOROSO CASK

NOSE: Melons, cherries and oranges.  Vanilla.  Touch of smoke.

TASTE: Complex.  Nutmeg and sharp ginger.

FINISH: Medium to long.  Brine shows up at the very end.

ASSESSMENT: Rich full nose.  The most balanced of the three (Black, White and Gold) releases.

 

The number one rated whisky of the night was the Black Bowmore, the second (was also the first choice of some of the gang) was the 37 year old from 1968, followed by the Gold, then the White and 30 year old.

I know the Black Bowmore was meant to be drank, but I can’t help feeling sad, that once the cork is open you are obligated to finish the bottle within a reasonable period of time, and after this bottle is drained of its contents, the Black Bowmore shall be Nevermore …………….. (Good thing we have a spare bottle)

 

– Nothing More, Maltmonster