Author Archives: antihero7

Crown Royal Review

1 Reply

Crown Royal

40% abv

Score:  75.5/100

 

Interesting to re-visit this one after so many years. Crown and ginger was one of the earliest drinks I ever cut my teeth on. Though I wouldn’t go so far as to say the ginger ale was to mask the whisky, I will concede I never drank Crown neat. Why would I? It went down quite nicely with that ginger to bitter out a little of the sweetness.

Several years (and hundreds of whiskies) later, I find myself returning to Crown Royal. This time however, as a whisky lover and not simply a snot-nosed kid looking for a means to inebriation. So when one takes the ginger ale (or any other mix) out of the equation, how does Crown Royal hold up? Well…let’s just say I still can’t imagine sitting down to a glass of this served neat. It simply isn’t that kind of drink.

Crown Royal is a blended Canadian whisky produced in Gimli, Manitoba (as unlikely as that may seem) from corn, rye and barley distillate. The spirit is then aged in new white oak and what they refer to as ‘seasoned’ barrels. The whisky is sold with no age statement, and no amount of searching provided anything conclusive as to length of maturation. Apparently at one point it was sold as a 12 year old.

Enough of the history and detail. On to the glass…

First things first. If this is your first foray into Canadian whisky…do note…Crown Royal is absolutely atypical of the region. Both on the nose and palate you’ll find grains and bucketloads of corn vying for attention. The corn is loud and brash, almost bourbon-like in its intense sweetness. The big fruits are as loud as crashing cymbals and nearly drown out the more subdued rye notes in the background. There is a breath of sharp freshly cut wood and tart berry as well. A little spice and perhaps a touch of vanilla.

On arrival…waves of tongue-tingling sweet grains. Far too sweet. Not bad in terms of flavor, but a little too much sugar intensity. Surprisingly, the finish is a lot milder than one would expect from such a bold nose and palate. It fades to a pleasant fruity hum that has a slightly floral tail.

This is a quirky one, friends. Globally recognized, oft-revered and well-marketing by the team at Diageo, it is the best selling Canadian whisky in the world. Can’t help but wonder if that isn’t because of just how different it is from the rest of the field. Is it a whisky to drink neat? Hard to say, I suppose. For this guy…absolutely not.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Port Ellen (OMC) Cask 6588 Review

Leave a reply

Port Ellen (OMC) Cask 6588

50% abv

 Score:  90.5/100

 

This is  classic Islay.  Not the best of Islay, but absolutely exemplifying  the style and character.  Islay with a little age and dust on the  bottle, that is.  The subtle nuances paint a picture of the island  that resonates long and hard with me, having now been there.  Be  damned if this doesn’t remind me of walking the island.  Dusty farm  roads and briny coastal breezes.  The impressions are all there of  afternoon strolls beneath island skies and the bleating of sheep on the gently  rolling hills.

Every now and then the olfactory organ can trigger such violently vivid recollections driven by scent recall that I am truly taken aback.  It is hard to believe how much is stored in one’s mind that can be brought forth by a scent months or years later.  The mind is a wonderful thing.

Though I tsk and shake my head at a bottling of Port  Ellen that is adulterated to something less than its glorious cask strength, I do concede that beggars can’t be choosers.  With this whisky in such limited supply, just a taste is a treat.  This Old Malt Cask bottling at 50% is from cask 6588.  It was decanted at 27 years, and to be honest…I think it could have come out a little earlier.   While still good (very good, actually) it shows a few signs of  being a little long in the tooth.  Too active a cask  perhaps?  Is it just me?

The nose is a medley of rubber, oak, smoke and salt.  I could also pick up notes of dry tinder, fish, grains and decaying autumnal vegetation.  One of the more satisfyingly unique compositions I’ve come  across.

The  taste buds are treated to the much anticipated smoke and lightly citric dryness.  Tart and ashy, there is a very unique and defining  burnt licorice/rubber.  In terms of finish and staying power…pull out the hide-a-bed…these rubbery gristy notes ain’t leaving till the morn.

I  imagine this would pair well with a fine cigar.  A mild one though.  This is a fairly brittle dram.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Tullibardine 1992 Premier Cru Classe Bordeaux Finish Review

Leave a reply

Tullibardine 1992 Premier Cru Classe Bordeaux Finish

46% abv

Score:  86/100

 

I have a bit of a crush on Tullibardine of late.  Not so much the younger expressions or elaborate caskings of recent times (think crazy finishes a la Glenmorangie or Bruichladdich) though some of these are also great, but more along the lines of the older, sexier Tulli’s.  Perhaps this gives me a slightly skewed bias for the distillery, but if so…at least it is one that is come by honestly.  Through sheer dedication to tasting as many as I can.  😉

Having now confessed a general appreciation, I concede I find it decidedly difficult to pinpoint an over-arching flavor profile from this distillery (at least from what I’ve tasted).  While it is easy to explain to someone what they can expect from say, a Glenfiddich, it is much more difficult with Tullibardine.  For me, anyway, and I simply refuse to cop to referencing any other writer’s opinions.  I have, on the other hand, had enough solid examples from Tullibardine to know that they make good whisky.  Occasionally great whisky.  It’s also often the case that these malts will surprise by just how affordable they are.  Yet another reason to get behind this distillery, I’d say.

This particular expression is an 18 year old, bottled at 46%, and finished in ex-Chateau Lafite casks.

Here we have a nose rich in MacIntosh toffee (Y’know the one with the tartan on the box?  Can you even buy that stuff anymore?) and sweet wine.  It is slightly spicy and slightly grape jam-y.  It carries crunchy unripe pear and crème caramel.  All in all, a decent nose, but there is something slightly off here as well.  Just a minor tweak needed somewhere.  Not unpleasant, but almost like a misstep in a line dance.  Barely noticeable amidst all the action, but if you’re looking for it…

Now, the palate…wow.  Here is where this one shines.  Though the nose was pretty enough, the palate is actually quite beautiful.  Sweet and drinkable…tart and tangy.  Almost apple-ish.  Especially in the finish.  This is perfect development with no disharmony or off notes.

This is certainly not the best of the Tulli’s I’ve tasted, but it is absolutely a great example of the high standards that seem to mark this malt.  If you can get your hands on it…do give it a go.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Aberlour a’bunadh (Batch 21) Review

1 Reply

Aberlour a’bunadh (Batch 21)

59.5% abv

Score:  88.5/100

 

At the time of writing*, ATW’s review of Aberlour a’bunadh Batch 28 is the most viewed review on the site.  First thought…folks out there are looking into the right whiskies.  Second thought…time to get around to writing up a few of the other batches.

Batch 28 was such a revelation (sadly I missed 23 and 26 which were said to be the measure against which others were held) that I knocked off a bottle, then hunted for a couple more to shelve for that fabled ‘rainy day’.  I’ve gone out of my way to try many batches now, and those which I have access to will be reviewed.  For now…Batch 21.

My jaded palate is somewhat overcritical of the a’bunadh bottlings now.  When I say that, what I really mean is that the average soul out there could likely add a mark or two to most of my reviews in this line-up.  This all comes down to knowing just what heights these can reach.  Even the lesser bottlings are head and shoulders above the average dram out there.  If you’ve not had your socks knocked off by one of these cask strength sherry bombs…get shopping.

Right off the the bat…you gotta know you’re going to get your tastebuds knocked around a bit.  This is an immense and intense heavily-sherried whisky at a cask strength of no less than 59.5% abv.  I’ll concede I am not generally a water-in-whisky guy (and certainly not when reviewing!), but in all fairness…this one can handle a few drops.  Oft-times a sherried whisky will fall apart when water is added, but this one should be safe.

The nose carries amplified notes of densely-soaked oak, rum, caramel, sweet and sharp raisin and buckets of nutmeg and strong cinnamon.  I got tantalizing hints of dark cherry and a touch of slightly over-baked hot fresh bread.  Butter-drizzled bread.  And finally…somehow amid this dark forest of sherry, a hint of sparkling barley still manages to peek through.  Sadly…and maybe this is just me…in the tangle of all of these glorious bits and pieces I still find one or two…off…somewhat jagged notes.  Just a little off-kilter, mind you.  While still a great dram…this is not the best of the a’bunadh line I’ve met.

Sitting atop the aforementioned notes, I got a touch of anise and a hefty dollop of molasses on arrival.  Gorgeously mouthcoating (as they all are), these flavors will cling to the backs of your teeth.  The oak and a mild tartness were the hangers-on for me.

One caution.  In embarassment I just want to add a brief tip.  Do NOT spill this stuff.  A ruined slip cover for my couch attests.

If out hunting for your first a’bunadh, and fence-sitting due to mention of batch discrepency, rest easy…these are damn fine drams.  As I mentioned above…the worst a’bunadh will often kick the hell out of the best another distillery might offer.

*(over a year ago now, as of Aug 2012)

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Aberlour a’bunadh (Batch 27) Review

2 Replies

Aberlour a’bunadh (Batch 27)015

60.1% abv

Score:  87.5/100

 

By this point we all know what we’re going to get from a batch of a’bunadh. Enormous mountains of sherry sweetness…cask strength bottling nearly big enough to melt the glass it is decanted into (60.1% abv)…bold fruitcake pungency and cloying winter spice…hints of a few other dark and seductive nuances. These nuances are what make each batch magical. Some are exceptional. Others merely great. Saying something, isn’t it?

Though the batch release idea implies variation, consistency of quality is a forte of the a’bunadh line. There is variation, to be sure, but such is the spice of life, isn’t it? I don’t shy away from picking up each successive bottling, as I am almost guaranteed to like it.

A’bunadh is Gaelic for ‘origin’, as in this is an attempt to replicate the whisky of days past. Just like others that have done this, we’ll simply never know how close they’ve come to cloning these dearly departed drams, but we can appreciate the thought and historical bent that drives these creations, and simply be content in the proffered bounty.

So back to those subtleties and nuances we spoke of, and what defines this batch. There are some domineering tobacco notes banging drums amidst the sweet cacophony of rum, chocolate and treacle. Dates and figs provide a big bottom end while defined and rigid spices (clove, nutmeg, cinnamon) come in sharp and high. The sherry is the melody that brings this all together, imparting these flavors to the Aberlour spirit. I find this batch slightly more ‘green’ than others I’ve tried. More of the Speyside fruity profile shows through here as well.

Splashed across the taste buds are chocolate, dried fruits, sherry and oak. The finish is long and rich. One would expect nothing less from this expression. Something a little tangy and tart toward the back though.

To be honest, this one is simply not as cohesive on the nose as some of the other batches. This serves to make it easier to dissect for the purpose of reviewing and taking tasting notes, but it makes it a somewhat less engaging and whole experience. This does not a bad whisky make, however.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Bruichladdich Peat Review

Leave a reply

Bruichladdich Peat

46% abv

Score:  86.5/100

 

The last few years have given rise to the Peat Wars (now here is a battle I can really get behind). Islay heavyweights, Ardbeg and Bruichladdich, have gone head-to-head, leaving other phenolic giants coughing in their wake. Undoubtedly Jim McEwan’s daring has been the weapon that has won most of the battles for the ‘Laddich squads. (I should further note…a none-too-subtle comment dropped at a recent ‘Laddie tasting suggests that McEwan still has an A-bomb or two tucked away as well.)

Under Jim’s guidance, Bruichladdich has produced spirit under three lines; Port Charlotte, Octomore and of course Bruichladdich itself. This expression we’re speaking to at the moment, “Peat”, is a polygamous marriage of all three. As these spirits were all distilled under the same roof, this ‘vatting’ is still a single malt. Imagine…the fruit-rich ‘Laddich base tempered by the creamy and buttery peated enormity of Port Charlotte before being goosed by the might of Octomore’s liquid fire.

If you’ve tried these three spirits individually, you’ll have some understanding as to how each is contributing, but can still stand on its own. When they come together…well…

Somehow the resulting spirit manages to find balance and harmony. Let this one breath a little upon opening. Decanting does wonders here, as this one drastically shifts gears after the first cork pop. For the better.

This is a thick, buttery and butterscotch-rich malt. Smoke and peat are obviously the most integral aspects here, but there is a nice round sweetness as well. This is met by sharp citrus and cola courtesy of the Octomore component. A little of the mildest almond and I keep thinking I’m snatching hints of vanilla but it repeatedly gets dashed to pieces on the sharp briny citrus.

The palate is oily and viscous (the hallmark of McEwan’s passion). Creamy and quite typical ‘Laddich delivery, but as one should expect…youthful and spirited. Cola with lime. A touch of oak…but only on the palate. Quite a heft to this one. The finish is long and drying. No surprises.

My only real criticism? Could have been bottled at cask-strength for even more oooomph.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Octomore 2.1 Review

4 Replies

Octomore 2.1084

62.5% abv

Score:  91.5/100

 

I read a review of Octomore, in which the reviewer ponders whether or not Bruichladdich (or more to the point, Master Distiller Jim McEwan) has ‘jumped the shark’ with this one.  Now…those of you ‘up’ on your pop culture references will no doubt be snickering, but for those who are unsure of this obscure reference, let me clarify…

Many years back – when the only bottle most of us were sucking back was full of formula or breast milk – as ‘Happy Days’ (yes…that ‘Happy Days’…y’know…Henry Winkler as the Fonz) was gasping its last breath, the writing team took an inexcusable leap of bravado at the viewers’ expense and put the Fonz in arguably TVs most ridiculous scripted moment…literally jumping a shark.  Time has not been kind to this blunder, and the term ‘jumping the shark’ has become a part of our lexicon.

So, where was said reviewer going with this twisted logic and odd analogy?  Well…with Bruichladdich’s tendency to saturate the whisky world with scores of snazzily-packaged young drams, it isn’t that much of a stretch to think of the Octomore as just another marketing gimmick to capture the anoraks’ attention as ‘the peatiest whisky in the world’.  Jumping the shark?  Maybe.  Maybe not.  Gimmickry aside…how does this juggernaut hold up?

To be honest…this is like being slapped in the mouth with chain mail.  Holy hell, what a snarling beast this is.  Massive and earthshaking.  Full of complexity and balance, and ridiculously startling for just this reason.  I expected this to be somewhat of a novelty bottling.  A whisky meant to wear a title, sell a boatload, but not have the stones to back it up.  I was knocked on my ass for my insolence, and happily so.

Like watching a beautiful woman undress, this whisky gets better and better the more it reveals itself.  Pour…inhale…sit back for a few minutes…inhale…close your eyes and dream of far off Islay…inhale.  This slow sensual build becomes almost overwhelming by the time you take your first sip.

Not only is the peat level beyond ridiculous (a whopping 140ppm!!), the Octomore is bottled at 62.5% abv.  It ignites the mouth with its oily viscosity and thick mouthfeel.  The flavors roll on in wave after wave of peat bliss.  It permeates all senses and lingers beyond time.  Cockroaches, Cthulhu and Octomore are all that will remain when life ends.

Aside from the heavy peat and smoke, I find hints of green apple freshness, cola tang, citrus, young vegetal notes and earth.  Being so young (5 y.o.), the oak influence is minimal to non-existent.  I may have to re-visit this review in the future, as I must confess I am just completely overwhelmed with this one and having troubles picking it apart.  And y’know what?  I don’t want to right now.  It is so much more than the sum of its parts and I sort of prefer it that way.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Smokehead Review

Leave a reply

Smokehead

43% abv

Score: 86/100

 

There are some interesting mutants out there in the whisky spheres right now.  Some aren’t mutants per se, but they are just far enough out of whack with the rest of the industry that they stand in a league of their own.  Some…exceptional.  Others…not so much.

These muties I speak of are often of the peat/smoke variety (though there are many others out there).  Think Big Peat, Finlaggen, Peat Monster, the Double Barrel expressions, MacLellands, and of course this… ‘Smokehead’.

The reasons these don’t quite fit the mold are as varied as the expressions themselves.  In some cases they are vattings, in which the component malts are kept secret.  In others they are single malts from unnamed distilleries.  In yet others, the exact proportions of the components are being guarded like the Caramilk secret.  Finally…a few are just…odd.

Smokehead falls into the ‘this is a single malt, but we won’t tell you which distillery it comes from’ camp.  Fun.  To a point.  Then, if you’re anything like me, that mosquito bite-like itch just won’t go away and you simply want confirmation of whether or not your surmises are correct.  Yes…Christmas was rough when I was a kid.  ‘Let’s see…can I peel back this wrapping just a bit without anyone knowing I was peeking?’

Funnily enough…for once I side with the masses.  I too believe in my heart of hearts that this is a young Ardbeg (but wouldn’t be surprised if it was Lagavulin).  There are hints of Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Caol Ila, but the overwhelming character is Ardbeg.  Young Ardbeg.  Experience suggests this one wouldn’t necessarily be out of step within that camp.

Anyway…speculation aside…this is a surprisingly decent dram.  My initial skepticism led to yet another humbling experience in the ‘don’t judge a book by its cover’ ethos.  Uber contemporary packaging and marketing (not necessarily embraced in an industry lorded over by the heavy hand of tradition) led me to initial dismissal.  Not to mention the suggestion that this should be used to create a drink called a ‘Smoke & Coke’.  I’ll say this one more time…don’t f*ck with my malts, people.  Good Scotch is not made to be mixed, contrary to what certain individuals think.  I can almost promise you 99.9% of Scotland’s distillers would happily explain how their malts were meant to be consumed.  Betcha paycheques this would not include ice or mix.

Forgive me my soapbox oration.  Back to ‘Smokehead’.

Medicinal and Band-aid like on the nose.  Powdered cocoa…dry ashy smoke and fresh squeezed grapefruit.  To be honest…nothing really unique, but it is surprisingly well-constructed.  Slightly sharp, but not unpleasantly so (you know I like my peat young).  Very pleasant nose for those that like a little Islay terroir in the glass.

The palate is dry peppery malt that develops into buttered biscuits or scones and green grapes.  That selfsame Band-aid iodine from the nose crops up again and does battle with the licorice notes.  Quite Lagavulin-esque on the palate.

Solid outing here in this NAS expression.  There is an 18 year old out there. Anyone who can get that particular nectar into my hands would sit in eternal esteem.

 

– Review by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Bruichladdich Brunello Cask Review

Leave a reply

Bruichladdich Brunello Cask

49% abv

Score:  88/100

This whisky lit a fire under a friend of mine.  On a whim he nabbed this bottle for a steal of a deal (~$60), and still waxes poetic, though the bottle has sadly…uh…evaporated.  Being a limited run (quite typical for Bruichladdich) in their Single Cask range, stocks of this are now quite low.  Just recently I managed to find one last lonely bottle of this locked behind glass in a local shop.  The canister is dusty and dented, but that won’t stop the friend I mentioned from taking it to a good home.

Well…you certainly can’t fault the lads and lasses at Bruichladdich when it comes to creativity and craft presentation.  The expressions are unique…the abv is always right up there (49% here on this one…bloody well done!)…the packaging is exceptional…and the taste?  More often than not…delicious.

The Brunello Finish in the Single Cask series absolutely fits the Bruichladdich mold.  Thinking outside the box has rewarded Bruichladdich once again.  This is a great malt.  You could probably tack on an extra point or two for value when you add price and abv into the equation.

The nose on this whisky is thick and lovely.  Here you’ll find big smoked caramel or toffee and hints of fresh orange.  It is buttery, as Bruichladdich generally is, and citric as well.  There is a bit of soft and mild cacao peeking around corners and an entirely smooth and pleasant nuttiness, most likely carried by the woods.  The arrival on the tongue is big and arresting, as one would expect at 49%, but the the flavor of the alcohol itself is buried.  That feared alchoholic nip is somehow held in check through the density of taste.  Exceptional for something this strong to be so smoothly drinkable without the burn.

Brunello is an Italian red wine, and some of those characteristics levied by the cask do shine through here.  Most notably in the development.  There are few whiskies out there that have this nifty rollercoaster of sweet notes of creamy caramel to mouth-drying tannins and soft woods.  This phenomenon is not as pronounced as in the oft-noted Highland Park development, but it is present and admirable nevertheless.

This is a whisky for a cool evening and warm conversation.

      

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Glenrothes 1988 Review

Leave a reply

Glenrothes 1988

43% abv

Score:  80/100

 

I don’t think I’m being an age elitist or anything here (hopefully faithful readers will know by now how much I enjoy some of my spirits quite young), but I truly haven’t found a Glenrothes I’ve enjoyed that came from anything later than the ’70s.  Honestly.  Age does not equal greatness, it’s true, but there is simply no denying that there were a lot of great malts casked in the 70s, and time has been kind to more than a few of them.  Glenrothes falls nicely into this band.

The flipside, unfortunately, is as I stated.  I have not found much to celebrate in the distillery’s more recent output.  Wood policy?  Cask selection?  Vatting inconsistencies?  Who knows.  I would be speculating, and I’d rather not do so.  Suffice it to say that more often than not Aberlour, Glenfarclas and Glendronach get my dollars when it comes to this region/profile.

The nose here is quite unforgiving.  Sharp, floral and slightly bitter.  For this age I would expect a little more subtlety and grace.  The oak is heavy and plodding, while the sherry is aggressive, and not altogether charming, in a rum-soaked Christmas cake way.  Notes of spiced apple and orange tucked way in the back are pleasant, but there is a yeasty bread dough character that works to muffle these.

Barley cuts through the sherry on the palate.  Spiced fruit, apple and notes of damp wood are loud and seemingly in charge immediately on delivery.  Again…slightly yeasty as well.  As expected, it is warming and the finish is moderate and meh…unoffensive.

A disappointing expression, to be sure.  Especially at 20 years on.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt