Author Archives: antihero7

An Evening With Jim McEwan

An Evening With Jim McEwan at Willow Park Wines & Spirits

26 September 2013

 

Most times I try to maintain a bit of a ‘professional’ distance from the people or products I’m writing about, but at other times I have to switch tacks and let honesty, personal bias and heart be my guide.  Such is the case here in sharing a bit about Willow Park’s recent evening event with Bruichladdich’s Jim McEwan.

While there are scores of incredibly interesting public figures in the whisky world, few are as instantly engaging as Jim.  In fact, I’d go so far as to say he is in a league of his own as arguably the best whisky speaker out there.  His talks are as entertaining and boisterous as the best of live shows and as warm and comfortable as your favorite slippers.  A dichotomy that somehow balances beautifully.

I’ve seen Jim speak a couple of times now.  I’ve also been privileged enough to spend some time with him on his turf (the distillery itself), and to have interviewed him here on the site.  In all of the encounters we’ve shared, he’s never been anything but the quintessential gentleman. 

It was for this reason, over any other, that I ended up at Willow Park last Thursday. 

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In one of my less-than-Mensa moments I managed to seriously mix up my days on when this event was to take place.  When a pal of mine emailed asking if I was ‘going to be there tonight’, my response was ‘where?’  After an initial hour or two of resigned melancholy (supposed to be home with the kids, making dinner, etc), I called the wife and told her I wanted to go.  Angel that she is, she immediately said ‘go’.  One rather sheepish call to Willow Park’s whisky specialist, Dave Michiels, and I’d managed to wriggle my way into a seat for this sold out event.  (Thanks again, Dave!)

I somehow managed to bolt out of the office and down to Willow Park early enough to help with some of the last minute set up and to have a bit of a chat with Dave and Jim before things got too crazy.

Now…I’ve attended many, many events at WP, but this one was a doozy.  I think attendance was in the neighbourhood of 120-130.  For a formal sit-down whisky tasting…this was unbelievable.  Pull together 130 folks with their minds set on some good drinks and an evening of entertainment and it’s bound to be a good time.   

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Early on in the presentation, Jim’s mention of his recent milestone 50 years in the industry brought a rousing cheer from the masses.  Let that sink in for a sec.  50 years.  50 f*cking years!  First of all…what a great job to have if you’ve gotta do something for half a century.  Second…how can you not appreciate that level of dedication and inherent knowledge?  Simply unbelievable.

And perhaps a better question might be ‘how can you not love a man who takes the occasional potshot at the Irish’?  I think his exact words regarding Ireland were “the land of drunkards and liars.  Twenty three miles away…and not far enough.”  All in jest, of course, lest anyone get their knickers in a twist.  It’s all in delivery, and I gotta say…the man had the room in stitches time and again.  (*Note…I only repeat this here in order to mock the afflicted ATW contributor, and resident Irish (dim)wit, Maltmonster)

Mockery aside, Jim was on point tonight.  Great presentation.  He has a way of combining a wicked and acerbic wit with the utmost in poignancy and melancholic nationalism.  There doesn’t seem to be an ounce of insincerity in his professed adoration for all things Islay.  Having been there twice now, I can unequivocally say he does well at capturing the essence of what makes Islay magical.

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The line-up of malts for this eve was a pure and simple one: Laddie 10, Islay Barley (Dunlossit), Laddie 16, Laddie 22, Cuvee 640 and Port Charlotte 10.  It was a simple, yet elegant, flight of drams.  In fact, in speaking with a good mate the following morning, I told him how cohesive and well-structured the range was.  Each dram segued nicely into the one following, with enough variation to allow each its moment to shine.

It would have made an interesting variation on a theme to include a taste of Bruichladdich’s titanic peat monster, Octomore, as well, but alas…beggars can’t be choosers.  It’s arguable as well that such a big gunner – even as the last malt of the evening – may have thrown off the balance of the range.  And as I said…it worked a treat as it was.

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As we worked our way through the whiskies, Jim filled us in on some of the inspirations and influences responsible for their births.  Tales related to terroir…to island sustainability and provenance…to history and inheritance of the past…to the people who helped make it…and of course….to the people who buy it. 

It’s neat to see a roomful of Canadians – most of whom have never stepped foot on the peaty bogs of Islay – come out in defense of Scottish pride and island ‘nationalism’ when Jim asks a question such as ‘how do call it a Scotch whisky if it’s not made from Scottish barley?’…or ‘how do call it an Islay malt if it’s matured over on the mainland?’

Hmmmm…discussions for another day.

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Much like the last time Jim came to Willow Park, he pulled the crowd to its feet to close out the evening.  Perhaps not in the way you’d expect however.  Picture a crowd 130 strong…standing on tables…glasses in hand…shouting a battle cry in Gaelic…and downing the last of their whisky in a Highland toast flourish.  This is Jim’s exit.  And it’s a bloody good one.

I wish I had a picture of all these fine folk holding their glasses high to the man who made the spirit they were drinking, but alas…I was too busy standing on a table, drinking whisky and roaring along with the rest of the unwashed masses.  Life is too short to just observe.  Sometimes you gotta get your hands dirty.

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Incidentally…I ran into a gent I hadn’t seen in a long while at this show.  His name is Dan, and he’s a helluva decent guy.  We sat next to each other and caught up a little throughout the evening.  Great tasting partner too, I might add.  This social aspect is why we love whisky so much, no?  Well…that’s part of it anyway.  I guess the other would be the juice itself.  I gotta say…it was a crying shame that the seat next to Dan and I was never claimed.  I did my good deed for the eve in liberating a couple of the extra drams, so as not to insult Jim by letting his fine spirit go to waste.  See?  Irrespective of what my wife says…I’m a pretty decent chap, huh?

Finally…I can’t say enough good things about the fine folk at Select Wine & Spirits and Willow Park Wine & Spirits for putting on an absolutely top notch event.  No surprise there.  They always come through.

 

– Words:  Curt

– Photos:  Curt

The Great Whisky Debate

The Great Whisky Debate

Greetings, faithful readers.

Just wanted to pass on the word about an upcoming event here in Calgary.  I’ll be checking this one out, and most certainly sharing a few words here on ATW afterwards, but for those of you interested in an evening out, tasting a few drams and hearing some of the industry’s key insiders share some insight…grab a ticket and come say hi. 

This debate format has been done in both Ontario and Las Vegas already, to what I’m given to understand was rousing success, so it seems only logical to bring it into one of North America’s most prevalent and thriving whisky markets:  Alberta. 

Our friends at Beam Global have picked a great venue for this one too.  For those of you who’ve yet to attend a Willow Park event, rest assured, they do ’em up right. For those that HAVE attended a tasting at WP…well…nothing more need be said, I imagine.

To save me the wordsmithing, I’ll simply rely on the event press to fill you in:

“While all bourbon is whisk(e)y, not all whisk(e)y is bourbon! (…..or Scotch, or Rye, or…) The debate rages on as Matt Jones (Canadian Bourbon Ambassador for Beam), Dan Volway (The Macallan/Highland Park Brand Ambassador) and Dan Tullio (the Godfather of Canadian Whisky) go head to head in a debate, detailing the differences and benefits of American, Scotch, and Canadian Whisk(e)y. This is always entertaining, and never will there be a dull moment while these 3 topics are literally on the table! There is no offside in this discussion, so let the debate begin!! Enjoy tastings of all three types of whisky and maybe more!”

No offside discussion, huh?  Hmmm…we’ll see about that.  😉

While I’ve yet to meet the other two gents (though looking forward to it), I can absolutely say that a night with Dan Tullio is a blast.  Looking forward to this one.

Details… 

“The Great Whisky Debate” at Willow Park Wines & Spirits

Oct 21st, 2013  7:00 pm

Tickets available HERE for $25. 

Get in quick, as there are only 100 seats for this event.

See ya there.

The Dram Initiative #005 – Jura With Willie Tait

The Dram Initiative #005 – Jura With Willie Tait

Event Date:  September 23rd, 2013

 

On the evening of Monday September 23, 2013 the Dram Initiative South West Alberta Congregation and guests gathered in the Marda Loop Community Whisky Hall to enjoy one of the largest collections of Jura middle cut ever assembled in one location.  On tap were sixteen different expressions. 

The night kicked off with a formal tasting of nine whiskies, starting with a Trio box set of 15 year olds, all bottled at 46% ABV called the “Paps of Jura”.  The Paps set is made up of:  Mountain of Gold (Pinot Noir finish), Mountain of Sound (Cabernet Sauvignon finish) and The Sacred Mountain (Barolo finish).  Next up were the three Boutique Barrels:  1996 JN Bourbon (56.5% ABV), 1995 JO Bourbon (56.5% ABV) and the 1993 JI Oloroso finished (54% ABV).  The last three, and the end to the formal tasting, were the 30 year old Camas an Staca (44% ABV finished three years in Oloroso sherry butts), 1977 Jura (46% ABV three 1st fill bourbon casks finished for one year in a Ruby Port Pipe) and the 1976 Feith A Charainn (46% ABV three 1st fill bourbon hogsheads). 

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The Dram Initiative Whisky Worshippers were schooled throughout the formal tasting by the omnipotent guest speaker, Mr. Willie Tait, AKA Big Willie, Master Distiller and Global Brand Ambassador of the Isle of Jura.  He began working at the Jura Distillery in 1975 as a Prole and was appointed to the middle-class as the Assistant Distillery Manager in 1979 and finally succumbing to the upper-class in 1985 as the Distillery Manager. 

In 1993, in a strange doublethink Jura / Islay conflict Mr. Tait ended up Distillery Manager of both Jura and Bruichladdich on the neighboring mysterious Island of Peat. In 1999, Mr. Tait left Jura for the village of Fettercairn, where he became the Manager of three Distilleries:  Fettercairn, Tamnavulin and Tullibardine.  Mr. Tait found himself in a new career to newspeak for the Ministry of Truth as Global Master Distiller / Global Brand Ambassador for Jura Single Malt Whisky in 2003.

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Some notable quotables issued by Mr. Tait during the formal tasting:

–              “Marvelous bunch of whiskies, and yes I made them all … I’m that fucking old”.

–              “On Jura each sheep has its own name; after all you can’t go shagging a sheep if you don’t know its name”.

–              “How do you drink your scotch whisky? …. With either your right hand or left hand”.

–              “Bourbon is Scotch whisky gone wrong”.

–              “Difference in barley varieties… Macallan’s golden promise, oh that’s shit”.

–              “I may be a Willie, but Richard Paterson is a Dick”.

After the formal tasting, the real drinking began, with a free-for-all mini-fest of seven additional expressions of juice from the Isle of Jura.  The Dram Initiative members & guests were invited to sample from bottles of the 10 year old Origin, 12 year old Elixir, 16 year old Diurachs Own, 18 year old, 21 year old, Superstition and the Prophecy.

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For the benefit of the great unwashed, The Jura Distillery was founded in 1963 and is located on the Oceanian Island of Jura and derives its name from the Old Norse for “Deer Island”.  The Isle of Jura is seven miles wide and thirty miles long and it has only one road, one pub and one distillery.  The current Distillery Manager is Willie Cochrane, AKA Wee Willie, which gives credence to the statement, that while you’re on the Isle of Jura, Willie is watching you, also some have suggested that the all seeing eye on the front of the Jura Prophecy Bottle is the one eyed Willie.  The Island is home to less than 200 people and over 5,000 deer, which could make you wonder who the Buck is really is in charge. The locals are known as the Diurachs / Proles, which is Gaelic / Orwellian, for the working class people of Jura. The island is dominated by three voluptuous massive mounds called the Paps of Jura.  The word Pap is an Old Norse word for female breast or man cans.  These steep-sided Madonna Maidenform conical quartzite mountains stand like beacons on its western side.

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The distillery is owned by Whyte & Mackay, United Spirits limited (USL), a subsidiary of United Breweries Group of India, Eastasia.  On May 27, 2013 Diageo, also known as the Ministry of Plenty, on their quest for world whisky domination, purchased a controlling interest in USL.  Diageo, upset about the regulators in the UK possibly forcing them to sell their controlling shares of USL due to anti-trust concerns decided to show the world what could happen if they were opposed.  In a show of strength, Diageo pressured Google Maps to make the Island of Jura vanish.  Thanks to whisky enthusiasts around the world for sending Google their many maps of “Distilleries of Scotland”, clearly showing the Jura Distillery.  As a result, Google had no choice but to reinstate the Island and shortly thereafter the Distillery resumed production.

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Many thanks to J Wheelock of Authentic Wine & Spirits Merchants, Western Canada (A Division of Charton Hobbs) for providing the incredible intoxicating single malts we enjoyed this night and for arranging for our guest speaker.

A special thanks to our unique and knowledgeable guest speaker Mr. Willie Tait who, through his singular charm, opened our minds and warmed our hearts, livers and kidneys towards the whisky, the Island and the people of Jura.

As a thank you to Mr. Wheelock and Mr. Tait, the Dram Initiative presented them with a rare limited edition Dram Initiative crystal Glencairn whisky go cup.  We also presented Mr. Tait the heel from the Jura Boutique Barrels JO 1995, on which Mr. Richard Paterson, Master Blender at Whyte & Mackay from a prior visit, penned in silver marker “Richard Paterson, I taught Willie Tait all about Scotch whisky”.

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Your humble drudge,

Maltmonster 

 

– Words:  Maltmonster

– Photos:  Curt

McClelland’s Islay Review

McClelland’s Islay033

40% abv

Score:  68/100

 

Hi there, Mr. Young-And-Feisty-B**more.  You’re not hiding behind that thin disguise.  We know who you are.  The whole charade is much like an accomplished author writing under a pseudonym in order to publish trashy romance novels on the side

I assume (rightly or wrongly) that the idea behind this whisky, and the others in the McClelland’s line, is to provide an affordable entry level single malt to the market, but one which can be churned out quickly and subject to nearly no scrutiny, due to its lack of any age statement or overt lineage declaration.  Not a bad idea really.  And there’s no denying others have succeeded using a very similar tack.

But here’s where I take exception to what is, in all concession, a rather noble and clever concept:  An entry level malt has to be enjoyable, otherwise it’s not only an ‘entry’, it’s also an ‘exit’.  If any of the expressions in the McClelland’s range were among the gateway malts I tasted as I was cutting my teeth, it’s highly possible I would have turned tail and run for a beer.  No kiddin’.

Put simply:  These are not good whiskies.  They’re actually not even average whiskies, if I’m to be dead honest.  They’re too young…too feinty…probably built from the distillery’s lesser casks not selected for better vattings…and I hate to say it, but poorly put together.

The sad irony with McClelland’s Islay (ignoring the rest of the range for a moment in favor of the one we’re actually reviewing) is that peat usually works very well when young.  That’s simply not the case here.  Again I’ll come back to the top-heavy feinty notes which throw this whisky into an off-kilter weeble.

In my local Canadian market this retails for about $35.  I recommend saving your allowance for an extra week or two and opting for a proper B**more.  Even the entry level B**more 12 year old will more than do the trick.

Nose:  Peat and smoke, of course.  And some farmy aromas.  Yeasty.  Alcohol/vodka notes and an untamed feinty-ness.  Barley and Realemon concentrate.  A candied sugary note…kinda overly sweet.  A little bit of currant and licorice.  Candy apple.

Palate:  Ouch.  Gave me a shiver (and not in the good way).  Like chewing malted barley.  Sharp alcohol bite…very astringent.  Tart (bitter, actually) fruit skins, more citrus and burnt coffee.  Needs many more years of hibernation before this would be properly drinkable.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Glenfarclas 21 y.o. Review

Glenfarclas 21 y.o.book club 081

43% abv

Score:  84/100

 

I keep asking myself if I’m missing something with this whisky.  A trusted mate of mine swears by it…I love most of what comes out of Glenfarclas, arguably one of Speyside’s(*) finest distilleries…the age at which this is bottled is a sweet spot for many whiskies…the price is great.  But at the end of the day it hurts me to give this one nothing more then a passing grade.

Credit where credit is due, however, this is a much better ‘noser’ than ‘sipper’.  The nose has some of those shimmering ephemeral qualities I so adore in mature whisky, and some of the individual nuances are a ‘coat-of-many-colors’ brilliant tapestry, coming together to provide a striking whole.  Sadly, it sort of all unravels as it spreads across the tongue.  The arrival is ok, but it quickly fizzles and leaves me almost confused.  Another sip…nope…same thing.  I’m now down to the last dram of the bottle and my impression hasn’t changed in the slightest.  As you can see, I’m nothing if not persistent.  😉  All in the name of good research.

Oh well.  They can’t all be exceptional.  As I said, I love Glenfarclas.  Almost unconditionally.  I’ll simply go elsewhere in the range to get my fill.

Nose:  Milk and white chocolate mousse.  A nice dusting of cinnamon.  Scones, sugar cookies and mild ginger snaps.  A few floral (perfume-y?) notes and fruitcake, heavy in almond paste.  Just an echo of old dunnage warehouse.  Comes together nicely. 

Palate:  For the love of all that Glenfarclas does right, I can’t wrap my head around the 43% here.  Seems far too light a delivery for such an old-school heavy style malt.  Black currant and jam.  Salt toffee.  Kinda malty.  Immediately turns to barley and all the sweetness falls off.  There’s simply nothing left to sweeten up the dry grains.  Not a fan of the finish.  It’s odd (and maybe it’s just me), but much like the recent batches of the 15, it almost seems to hit a fishy note at the back end.  Like a cedar-grilled salmon or something.

(*) Yes, yes…’Highlands’ on the bottle, but  this is from the heart of Speyside.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Ardbeg 1977 Review

Ardbeg 1977017

46% abv

Score:  94.5/100

 

I had held off in putting pen to paper on this one for quite some time.  A couple of years, in fact.  The simple truth is that those reviews for that small select handful of whiskies that are simply stratospherically better than all others out there are much harder to write up.  Much harder to express in sentiments that won’t come across as nothing more than gushing praise and salivation.

It’s no small secret that Ardbeg is my favourite distillery, and up until recently, when I was able to taste both 1974s from the Ardbeg Double Barrel release, this 1977 was arguably the greatest Ardbeg I’d yet encountered.  That should tell you something as to its inherent quality.  This one was a sort of a ‘where do we go from here?’ type thing.  Once I’ve laid down the word on this one, I had wondered, is everything else a mere shadow?  Maybe something akin to Plato’s forms?  Well…here’s hoping not.  And I like to think the Double Barrel releases from this Hebridean distillery are proof positive that that perfect dram…that holy grail of malt whisky…is as elusive as ever.

A certain whisky writer once opined in his sermons that 1974 and 1977 were special years for Ardbeg.  While I may not agree with everything he says (or even much of it, to be honest) he was dead-on accurate in this case.  Those looking for the snarling ferocity of recent Ardbeg cask strength giants need to approach this one with a completely different mindset, or simply look elsewhere.  This is no Beastie, nor Supernova, nor ferocious ‘Gator.  This is class, elegance and refinement.

Further…this is a sublime example of beautifully aged peat, vibrant fruity notes and almost unfathomably excellent composition.  The balance struck here is simply magic.

Nose: Fruit with cream. Bordering on tropical. Melon…maybe peach. Chocolate. Vanilla and old cinnamon. Distant echoes of peat. Grains are noticeable, but sweet and bearing a faint fields-o’-barley nostalgia. There’s a gorgeous mild paint or rubber latex note here that you only find in well-matured casks.  Cadbury’s chocolate.  Oranges and other sweet orange fruits. Butterscotch. Aged and balanced smoke. Some more citrus.

Palate: Bright, very bright, with an absolutely great mouthfeel.  And oh, man…the fruits!  A lot of orange, and a mix that borders, again, on tropical.  Mild peat and a building wall of smoke.  Some smooth chocolate.  Lingering and delicious.

ABV does it justice, at a respectable 46%, but man…to have this at cask strength…

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

A Couple Of Benromach Single Cask Releases For KWM

 KWM Exclusive Benromach 2004 & 2005

A few months back, our mate Andrew Ferguson put out a call to a few of the faithful.  He had in hand a few cask samples of younger Benromach, and an eye to picking the next Kensington Wine Market exclusive.  Over the course of an evening’s tasting, the gang came up with not just one winner, but a couple of them that seemed to be a cut above the rest.  In the end, with a little nudging, Andrew opted to purchase both of these casks.  

Can’t say we’re not spoiled here in Calgary. 

Benromach is a Speyside distillery, owned and operated by Gordon & MacPhail.  G&M, in case it is triggering some sort of tickle in the back of your mind, is known first and foremost as one of the industry’s leading independent bottlers.  The acquisition of the Benromach distillery, which had been sitting in a state of suspended animnation for years, took place in 1993.   This distillery is one of the few phoenix acts now risen from the ashes of the rash of distillery closures in 1983.  The first official Benromach releases under G&M arrived in 2004, and despite an output of less than 150,000 litres of new make spirit per annum, the brand is growing.  Might have something to do with the fact that the juice is surprisingly good.

KWM Benromach Casks (2)

So now…let’s have a go at these two single casks Andrew bought…

 

Benromach 2004 Cask #246 Kensington Wine Market ExclusiveBenromach 2004 (2)

60.4% abv     First Fill Bourbon Barrel     9 y.o.     258 Bottles

Nose:  Vanilla cream with a light dusting of cinnamon.  Orange sherbet.  Sweet bread dough.  Caramelized crème brûlée notes.  Faint, but very clean, toasted/smoky note.  Very light fruits.  Maybe pear or melon or something.

Palate:  Now a little barley up front.  Orange again, but with a little lemon too.  A nice soft light fruitiness again is lit up by a slow-building spice.  There’s a quick bit of cocoa at the front, but it’s fleeting.  Very clean, but long, linger.

Thoughts:  One of the more successful young non-peated whiskies I’ve found.  Not far off the recent Auchentoshan Valinch 2011 release in terms of overall profile.  Great cask selection.

Score:  89/100

 

 

Benromach 2005 (2)Benromach 2005 Cask #126 Kensington Wine Market Exclusive

60.4% abv     First Fill Bourbon Barrel     8 y.o.     245 Bottles

Nose:  Lightly peated.  An especially pleasing chocolate top note.  A little bit of BBQ sauce.  Touch of char.  Just a wee little bit of wood and dirt…natural and pleasing.  The peated malt shows through nicely.  Quite smoky.

Palate:  Chocolate covered cherry right up front.  Into peaty earthy notes and farmy grains.  Much smoke.  More oak on this one than its sibling.  A little marmalade, but otherwise not a lot of fruit here.  Having said that…it’s not really missed either.  Wait…a slight (oh so slight) banana note right at the back.

Thoughts:  Says ‘lightly peated’, but there is more of that smoky heft than I thought there would be.  M0re earthy and elemental than the 2004.  Again…a well chosen reaping.  Great age for this one.  Vibrant and young.

Score:  89/100

 

 

Overall thoughts:  Altogether different malts, but about equal in terms of overall quality.  No need to split hairs when it comes to scoring these young Speysiders either.  89 points apiece will do, I think.  The nose on the 2004 is just a touch better, while the palate on the 2005 wins out.  Finally…at just over $80 a bottle…a steal, while they last.

 

– Words & Tasting Notes:  Curt

– Photos:  Andrew Ferguson

Compass Box Flaming Heart Review

Compass Box Flaming Heart

Limited third edition.  4,186 bottles.  September 2010.

48.9% abv

Score:  89.5/100

 

I wrote up notes for this one a long time back, and either a) the whisky has substantially evolved, b) I was way off on the multiple occasions I tasted and took notes c) I’m now better/worse at what I do.  Either way…there’s not a lot of consistency between what I’m picking up now and what I got out of this one ‘back in the day’.

To be clear…these notes are for the 10th anniversary release of Flaming Heart.  While I’d like to get my hands on another one of this particular edition (sadly…I have none left now), this makes me want to dive into a more recent bottling to see what sort of evolution this one has gone through.

The Compass Box website says this one combines “Highland, Islay and Island single malts, aged in a combination of American and French oak casks, to create a smoky-sweet flavour profile like no other Scottish malt whisky.”  Yep…definitely smoky-sweet.  While I can’t say this one immediately jumps out from the pack as something astonishingly unique, I can say that it absolutely does exemplify high quality and a very profound and intimate understanding of the blender’s craft.  To clarify that statement…this is not a single malt whisky.  Rather, it is a blended malt.  However, I much prefer the old nomenclature of ‘vatted malt’, so in deference to John Glaser’s cheekiness, from here on out I’ll call it a vatted malt, SWA (ahem…primarily Diageo blokes, if rumour holds true…or at least being led by Diageo blokes) be damned.  (Anyway…for a little fun, spend some time reading up on the Compass Box Last Vatted Malt tale.  There’s even a wee video of the actual bottling of the LVM onYoutube.)

Pushing whisky politics aside for a bit (though if any whisky maker has dealt with more than its share of bureacracy it would have to be Compass Box), let’s check out the whisky itself.

Nose:  Just a touch of peach.  Some orange and a hint of pear.  Yes, there’s a bit of peat and smoke, but it’s very clean and crisp.  A slight peppery bite.  Slightly lemon biscuity.  I can still get the malted barley.  The smoke is well checked here.

Palate:  Big orange note.  A fair bit of vanilla.  Some perfume-y notes (very pleasant).  A whiff of smoke.  Nice grain/oak balance.  This is an incredibly smooth easy drinker.

I was off the mark last time.  Thankfully it was unscored notes I published, but wow…humbling.  Again…hats off to John and his team.  Another winner from Compass Box.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Pat Carroll

The Dram Initiative #004 – Scotch Malt Whisky Society

The Dram Initiative #003 – The Scotch Malt Whisky Society Logo (2)

Event date:  August 20th, 2013

 

I went into this one already a member of the SMWS.  I also went in knowing I liked many of the expressions I had tried so far.  Further…I already had some idea as to how the event would go down.

What I didn’t anticipate going in, however, was just how much I would enjoy this evening.  Honestly.

Earlier this day, as I was preparing for the event, I said something to my wife along the lines of being ‘pretty excited’ about this one.  It’s not often I get to sit down to a flight of malts blindly, in which most (or all) are new to me.  Especially in the context of the DI, where I am always involved in pulling together line-ups for the Collective.  Sometimes it’s nice to be the puppet, and not always the puppetmaster (said with benovolent glee).

This was definitely a night with a few surprises in store. 

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The SMWS, for those not in the know, is the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, a private whisky club whose members get exclusive rights to buy the society’s bottles, first crack at attending society events, a killer start-up kit and, if abroad…may visit the infamous UK clubhouses (hitting The Vaults is on my whisky ‘to-do’ list).

The Society is home-based out of the UK, and boasts a tasting panel responsible for selecting and bottling single casks from 129 different single malt distilleries, nearly a dozen grain distilleries and others such as Armagnacs, rums and more.  Each release is numbered and cleverly (read: abstractly) named, but the distillery itself is never mentioned on the bottle itself.  Tack on some rather…errrr…over the top tasting notes, and…voila!  The rationale here is that the whiskies should speak for themselves, and not allow any preconceptions to cloud the judgment of the buyer.  Fair ‘nough.

A couple of years back, friends of ours, Rob and Kelly Carpenter, took the plunge and committed to launching the Canadian arm of the SMWS right here in Calgary.  After some intial hurdles were bested (procurement of rights, set-up of agency, retail outlet confirmation, etc) the society launched to a rather phenomenal public embrace.  In year two now, membership numbers simply keep growing.  All you have to do is hit up one of the First Friday tastings to see why.

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I had approached Rob and Kelly many months back about coming out and sharing a bit about the SMWS (and maybe a dram or eight of their sexy single malts).  I figured that the Society’s novel approach, utterly unique take on whisky culture and high test presentation perfectly aligned with the Dram Initiative’s ethos of independence and strength…quality and curiosity. 

There’s also one other simple factor here at play which shouldn’t be overlooked.  Inside, we’re all like kids.  We like surprise and mystery. 

Kelly, being the enthusiast that she is, immediately committed to an evening with the club.  We settled on a date and the rest is now (a week later) a piece of DI lore. 

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 The reception to both the Society and the whiskies was much better than even I could have anticipated.   I figured we’d have a few keeners who would get right behind what the SMWS was, and I’m happy to say this was exactly the case.

The laughs throughout the evening came easily, both in relation to the names of some of the bottles and, even moreso, in relation to Rob and Kelly’s experiences and presentation itself.   Now laughs are one thing, but an appreciation and an admission to quality is another.  Interestingly enough…one member commented that it was his favorite flight of whiskies we’ve tried since the very first event.   Considering some of the malts we’ve tried to date, that is saying something.

Several left the hall speaking of joining, and i know at least one committed on the spot.  Neat stuff.

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Extra special thanks to Rob and Kelly, who did an excellent job in pulling together a fun and informative tasting.  There were a couple of neat twists to the selections…some age…some youth…a variety of cask influences and some neat tales to go along with them.  I think the members really enjoyed this one.  Scratch that. I know the members enjoyed this one.

Now…what say we have a closer peek at the whiskies themselves?  In keeping with the club’s ideology, I’ll refrain from naming distilleries here.  Have a read…

 

5.35 “Laundry In The Bakery”

54.7% abv          12 y.o.            2nd fill hogshead, ex-bourbon          Outturn:  195 bottles

Nose:  Some light bread-like, mildly spiced baking notes.  Orange and peach.  Cinnamon.  Apple.  Sorta ‘flour-y’.  Hot cross buns.  Some floral notes.  Orange creamsicle.

Palate:  Peppery.  Cinnamon.  Some very clean oak.  Almost a ‘toasted’ note here.  Sweet fruit gum.

Thoughts:  Very light.  Very clean.  Very drinkable.  I immediately knew the distillery, but was way off on age.  This seems older than a 12 year old whisky.

 

48.31 “Honey & Flowers In A Knicker Drawer”

53.1% abv          23 y.o.          2nd fill sherry butt          Outturn:  262 bottles

Nose:  Some paint.  Peanuts and pencil shavings.  Florals and yeasty dough.  Strawberry and creamy caramel.  A fair bit of chocolate.

Palate:  Good cocoa.  Somewhat tannic.  Neat honey nougat notes, similar to the hard bits in Toblerone bars.  Slightly smoky (clean wood smoke).

Thoughts:  Very nice drink, serves up at a perfect age for this profile.  Would happily sit down to a bottle of this with mates.

 

G2.2 “A Vaudeville Act”

53.6% abv          35 y.o.          Refill barrel          Outturn:  139 bottles

Nose:  Wow.  Odd one here.  Like an aged rum almost.  Caramel corn.  Dust.  Paint/glue.  Hint of cherry.  Marshmallow.  Very bourbon-ish.  Slightly smoky.  Strange nose at first, but it definitely grew on me.

Palate:  Sweet bourbon flavours.  Bold oak and big fruity notes.  Vanilla.  This tastes like a bourbon aged in a rum cask.

Thoughts:  This one kicked a bit at first, but after a few minutes in the glass, some of those more surprising notes dissipated and left a rather sassy drink.  I know a couple of people around me names this older grain whisky as their favorite of the night.

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35.75 “Victorian Walled Garden In Las Vegas”

57.9% abv          17 y.o.          Designer hogshead, toasted and seasoned          Outturn:  206 bottles

Nose:  Dark caramel and cherry.  Some sharp ‘green’ vegetal notes and barley.  Cinnamon hearts.  Again…sorta bourbon-ish.  Big spice profile.  Tobacco.  Grassy.  Smells of a good toffee/fudge/chocolate shop (I’m thinking of those in Banff, Alberta right now).

Palate:  Chocolate.  Marmalade.  Chilis.  Zesty and fizzy.  Bourbon-like here too.

Thoughts:  Some very interesting individual nuances that coalesced nicely.  Still not sure what a ‘designer hogshead, toasted and seasoned’ is, but hey…it works. 

 

71.37 “As assignation In A Boudoir”

57.9% abv          14 y.o.          Refill sherry gorda          Outturn:  699 bottles

Nose:  Creamy.  Milky caramels and toffee.  Maybe akin to the softer Werther’s.  Freshly churned butter.  Vanilla.  Some sulphur for sure.

Palate:  Chocolate.  Sulphur.  Tannins.  Green apple and plum skins.  Some prune or fig.  Dandelion-like bitterness.  Maybe a bit of leather.

Thoughts:  Somewhat polarizing dram, this.  The sulphur was the dividing factor here.  A little water added took those ‘struck match’ notes down a notch, but never really got rid of ’em.  I took a little exception to this one, but I think any of the others were quite keen.

 

3.188 “The Camping Trip”

58.8% abv          14 y.o.          Refill sherry butt          Outturn:  616 bottles

Nose:  Farmy notes.  Dark moist soil.  Rubber and charcoal.  Wet rock.  Smoke, peat and iodine.  Still quite some vibrant barley notes.  Chocolate.  Burnt marshmallow.  Wet leather.  Very salty smelling.

Palate:  Dirt and dust.  Bitter chocolate.  Sea salt and fresh cracked pepper.  Salt licorice.  Burnt rubber.  Sweet and tangy peat and rich sweet smoke.

Thoughts:  Awwww, yeah!  Here we go.  A few eyes in the room lit up over this one.  Mine included.  I’m with Kelly on some of these peat and sherry sweet monsters.  Hell yeah!

 

3.189 “Echoes Of Bonfires & Funfairs”

58.4% abv          14 y.o.          Refill sherry butt          Outturn:  607 bottles

Nose:  Sweet and spicy.  Stewed tomato.  Sunflower seed.  Salted grapefruit.  Peat and smoke.  Prickly greens.  Seafood-y.  Some dark fruits, but rather unrecognizable.

Palate:  Chocolate.  Smoke.  Citrus.  Some raisin.  A bit of Granny Smith apple tartness.  Sharp and iodine-rich.  Quite farmy.

Thoughts:  Sister caks to the one above.  Fun little bit of compare and contrast here.  Very different, but equally enjoyable.  These two are the kind of drams to sit down with when you have unlimited time and no interruptions.

 

129.2 “Humbugs In A Horse’s Nose-Bag”

61.6% abv          4 y.o.          1st Fill barrel, ex-bourbon          Outturn:  250 bottles

Nose:  Young.  I know this distillery.  I know it well.  Soem neat vanilla notes not tempered by the fiery young peat.  White pepper.  Smoke.  New leather.  Big notes of cola with fresh-squeezed lemon or lime.

Palate:  Licorice.  Smoked orange and burnt lemon rind.  A little more fruit here.  Hay and leather.  Green apple.  Seet peats.

Thoughts:  This and the first were easy ones to peg.  The others…not so much.  The youngest malt of the night was also my favorite.  There may not be sophistication here yet from Islay’s youngest distillery, but there sure as hell is quality.  Loved this one.

 

Thanks again, to Rob and Kelly, for coming out and spend a great evening with us.  Cheers!

For those that may be interested, see Andrew Ferguson at Kensington Wine Market, or visit the SMWS Canada site.

Until next…

 

– Words & Tasting Notes:  Curt

– Photos:  Curt

 

 

Laphroaig 15 y.o. Review

Laphroaig 15 y.o.lrgob_15yo

43% abv

Score:  91.5/100

 

Tasting a whisky like this is an exercise in heartbreak.  Forgive my overt sentimentality towards anything Islay, but irrespective of any personal biases, this really is a rather simple and beautiful whisky.  I’m blown away that the decision was made to remove this from the range.  While we did, of course, gain the spectacular 18 year old as a trade-off, I can think of no reason not to continue bottling some of the mature spirit at 15 years.  It’s quite evidently a sweet spot for Laphroaig.

First things first…

This whisky went the way of the dodo in mid 2008.  That was back when the current whisky bubble was still expanding, but had yet to reach the frightening state of inflation it’s currently at.  The importance of noting this lies in understanding that there would have been a lot less demand on mature stocks at the distillery, thereby allowing for more flexibility in selecting casks to marry in order to build a whisky like this.  In 2013, I’m 99% certain that a 15 year old malt is exactly that, whereas a few years back I’m betting the distiller had casks of all sorts of vintages at his disposal; the only restriction being that the youngest cask in the mix was not less than 15 years and a day.  Put simply…there are casks vatted in this bottling that are older than 15 years.

Laphroaig 15 was a fairly polarizing whisky when it was available.  I’m wondering now if that didn’t have more to do with the peat-o-philes out there being underwhelmed with the lack of ferocity in the phenols here.  If you’re expected that typical Laphroaig earthy, medicinal smokefest…forget it.  This is so much more.  But also, so much more restrained.

All in all…a fine whisky I really enjoyed.  No wonder Prince Charlie loves this stuff.  Said to be his favorite malt, I can only imagine he has more than a few bottles still squirrelled away.  Good sir, when one day you read this (and of course you will) perhaps you’d be so kind as to share a bottle with a friendly Canadian.  😉

A subtle and refined Laphroaig.  Austere and sublime.

Nose:  Very nice fruits.  A little peach and pear lingering behind a light gauze of smoke.  Vanilla cupcake, dusted with the fairest bit of nutmeg.  A touch of orange and maybe sweet pink grapefruit with sugar.  A gum-like note.  May be a little sherry influence, but I’m not certain.  Some salty/briny seawash notes.  Creamy vanilla.  The smoke is there, of course, but very restrained for a Laphroaig.  The toned down elegance here reminds me of the subtleties Ardbeg 17 is built on.

Palate:  A little drier now.  Some grassy notes and a left turn into some rather surprising white wine notes (Sauvignon blanc).  Chocolate.  Some smokiness and apple.  Generally I’d prefer a little more firepower in terms of abv, but 43% works just fine here.  Better nose than palate.

Thanks to our mate, Dan, for sharing this long gone gem with a small crew of the great unwashed at my place.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  The Whisky Exchange