Tag Archives: Islay

“Islands in the Sound, that is what we are…”

Or something along those lines anyway. Sorry, Kenny and Dolly. Anyway… let’s dig into a neat little duo from Whisky Sponge.

There was a vision here: release a single cask bottling from both beloved Hebridean islands, Islay and Jura. A bottling that was naked in spirit and cask dressing, matured entirely on its respective island, and offered at natural cask strength. In one hand, we have a Jura from the early years of Whyte & MacKay ownership, and in the other, a Bruichladdich from the early years of the distillery’s renaissance. This would have been distilled after W&M finally relinquished the dormant distillery (and existing stock) from their portfolio to Mark Reynier, Jim McEwan, and the rest of the merry pranksters (so many beautiful souls). I have to commend Sir Sponge for sourcing these casks and knowing just when to bottle them. Plucked from wood at a seemingly perfect time in both cases.

Whisky Sponge Edition No. 96 Bruichladdich 19 y.o.
2005 – 2024
1st Fill bourbon barrel
206 bottles
55.8% abv

Everything I want in a Bruichladdich. We’re finally now seeing what one of the most interesting makes in all of ScotchLand turns into when it grows into adulthood. There’s a spellbinding audacity to a distillery making such a standout spirit. I have a feeling that Bruichladdich’s day is still to come.
Says Angus: “…tastes like Leviathan wrestling and Dolphin husbandry.”
Nose: Nutty; milky; sour and butyric (as expected in such an ‘exposed’ outing); lactic baby vomit; minerally; sour orange and gentle mandarin; medical tape; chlorine/pool water; white chocolate; vanilla candle; Scottish tablet. Palate: putty and chalk and clay (and any sort of organic, malleable, minerally kinda thing you can think of); a few drops of olive oil spilled into vegetable oil; smoke; toasted croissants; pears soaked in brine; blood orange. Finish: a lot of phunky notes going on here, but the phinish is very clean and cohesive. Thoughts: unexpectedly smoky on the palate; this one polarized at a recent tasting; I was one of the small handful that adored it. Unapologetically, a 90/100

Whisky Sponge Edition No. 97 Jura 30 y.o.
1994-2024
Refill hogshead
203 bottles
46.0% abv

Thirty years in a refill hoggy; utterly brilliant to leave it alone. Thank you for that. Refill wood with deep years is the recipe for most of my favorite drams, so I concede a bit of ‘excitement bias’ coming into this Jura. There’s also the fact that there simply are not enough ‘Paterson-influence-free’ Juras out there (or Dalmores or Fettercairns, for that matter). Any opportunity to engage with an indie Jura is fun.
Says Angus: “…tastes like cosplaying as a pirate while being lured into a whirlpool by a devious Mermaid.”
Nose: Bird’s brand custard; melty brie cheese; loads of soft tangled fruit notes (candy-like); beach bare feet; salty bread dough; yeasty and fermenty, leading into…; guava; tangerine; very faint mango; Juicy Fruit gum; very fishing village-esque. Palate: incredibly soft landing; salted, spiced custard or heavy cream; purple wine gums; yellow grapefruit pith; burnt pineapple; vaguely medicinal; sourdough crust; insect repellent; olive oil. Finish: very clean and elegant; minerally and almost herbaceous, or maybe that’s just the grains and oak. Thoughts: Either way, a very vulnerable nakedness that I adore 90/100 (+/- a point)

I was going to post this one separately, but it just seemed to fit here, so…

Islay Sponge Part IV Port Charlotte 20 y.o.
20 yo (2003 – 2023)
Refill hogshead
241 bottles
56.5% abv

Undoubtedly, one of my most adored recent releases. Port Charlotte is a top tenner for me (maybe top five) in terms of profile, and I can’t even begin to tell you how excited I am for a future full of well-matured PCs. I feel that Port Charlotte is aging like the finest of wines. It’s neat to see this coming-of-age, especially when we look back at those early PC number releases (PC5, PC6, PC7, etc)
*Special thanks to a mate of mine out west who was doubly kind with this one. I’ll spare you all the story, but to my generous benefactor: suffice to say, I have a wee package of reciprocity coming together oh-so-slowly (no excuses for my delinquency).
Nose: Warm suede; the collective smells of the farmyard (windswept fields, cow sh*t, and horse stables); mandarins, peach and, tangerine, and nectarine; Spanish cedar; sour yeasty notes, leaning into butyric acids; lime; tobacco/snuff; brine and a touch of ammonia; coal smoke. Palate: orange creamsicle; cinnamon and nutmeg sprinkled over peaches and cream; a soft but weighty smoke (like a moist ‘medium’ cigar. Yeah… I said moist. Twice); lots of citrus; lots of creamy, buttery notes; oily and heavy; I feel like I just kissed someone wearing shea butter lotion. Finish: archaic and absolutely bonkers in an ‘echoes of Brora’ sort of way; loooooooong, but never long enough. Thoughts: Ruben at Whiskynotes nailed it: Brora meets old Ardbeg, but there is an unmistakable McEwan era Laddie-ness, too. Let’s say, divide those three profiles into thirds? I think that’s getting to this one. I have to echo Ruben’s sentiments: “this is a future classic.” What a bottling. Smoky tropical baby puke at the ranch? 92/100 (maybe even 93)

(CR)

The king is dead, long live the king!

Ardbeg 17 Committee Exclusive (2024)
Bottled 2023 (Released 2024)
40% abv

We screamed for years for Ardbeg to give us back the 17 instead of another cleverly concocted (and marketed) limited release*. It seems our pleas have not fallen on deaf ears or, more likely, the good people at Ardbeg were already miles ahead of us. I’d almost given up hope of seeing this ever come to fruition. Needless to say, this is a warmly welcomed return, 20 years after the original 17 was retired. In my humble opinion, anyway. Unquestionably, the best modern 40%er I’ve tried in recent memory. Well done, Ardbeg. Now, this homage was cool, but how about a 46% version?
Nose: lime margarita, or rather, mezcal-rita, but with very retrained agave notes; melon; tangerine; starfruit; starfruit; brioche; white pepper; mineral notes, slightly slate-like; potter’s clay; and a wee bit of vanilla wafer cookie doused in pool water. Palate: more tangerine; cantaloupe; shellfish; brine; salt licorice; a decent smokiness; clean malty notes; sadly, very thin. Finish: I love the way the melons linger with that ashy smokiness; a bit of sharp greens married to mint; and then those mezcal-ritas again. Thoughts: Elegant. Somewhere between the new and old schools. The old 17 meets Airigh Nam Beist meets a touch of the Lumsden era distillate. Others haven’t been quite so generous, I hear, but despite the baseline abv… 89/100

*We’ve also been clamoring for a Ten Cask Strength. Y’know… essentially ‘Renaissance Redux.’ (a not so subtle hint, hopefully – CR)

(CR)

Ardbeg Drum Review

I wanted to love this. I really did. As soon as they announced this year’s Ardbeg Day release was going to be rum cask-matured I immediately went into mental damage control. It’s okay. Relax. It might still be good. You don’t much like wine casks, but Grooves was good, right? Rum, though? Really? And that name. I’ve mentioned the concept of jumping the shark before, and maybe this is finally it.

A few years ago, Diageo’s Nick Morgan made some ridiculous comment that fired up the cognoscenti. He was coming out in defense of NAS whiskies (or if you can read between the lines: being the human shield for the fatcats at Diageo HQ) and said something along the lines of running out of numbers for age statements. Silly, of course, but I’m hoping that the idea of ‘running out of’ anything is maybe a little more applicable on the NAS side of things. Especially as relates to Ardbeg, one of my most beloved of distilleries. Maybe they’ll run out of silly concepts, and go back to numbers. Can you imagine the buzz for a proper age-stated range of Ardbeg? I mean, a regular core range of 10, 17, 21 and 25 or something? That I could get behind.

Drum…well…not so much.

Is it bad? No. Not actively. Is it good? Meh. S’okay. Not much more. I find it oddly thin and lacking the swagger that Ardbeg usually has in spades. Anyway…

46% abv

Tasting Notes

Nose: Very young-ish. Smoky as hell, but…lacking the expected…I dunno…Ardbeg-iness? Licorice. Bicycle tires. Overripe banana. Caremalized pineapple sugars. Banana cream pie. A little Coke with lime. A bit of eucalyptus chest rub. Smells kinda like someone polished up a pair of Wellies. In all…meh. Underripe and out of balance.

Palate: Again…missing that Ardbeg character. Hot, youthful and spirity. Black wine gums. Sweet barley sugar notes. Sensens. More rummy rubber tones. Lemon. Plastic. Brackish water. Not bad; just not exciting either. It’s almost hard to find the real Ardbeg in there.

Finish: Long, as with all Ardbeg, but yet still somehow thin. Like a longheld reedy note in a symphony when you’re expected a tuba. Leaves behind fruit skins, licorice, toothpicks and a little bit of that plastic character.

Thoughts: You lost me on this one, Ardbeg. For the first time in memory, I’ve not bought bottles for myself. Can we please just have a regularly available, fairly priced 17 year old again? Please?

79/100 (and that might be being a tad generous, if I’m being honest.)

Calgary Whisky Club – Update #3

Greetings, Members, Malters and soon-to-be-members!

The Willow Park Whisky Club (not an official title) had its first official meeting on the 5th of September, 2010.  Though the Labor Day long weekend prevented several individuals from attending, a large handful came out to break a bottle on the proverbial maiden voyage.  Thanks to all of those (like myself) who lacked the foresight to book an extended vacation at this time and were able to attend.  😉

What happens in Whisky Club stays in Whisky Club.  Well…not really, but…suffice it to say…details will not be shared here for the masses.  The long and short of it was this…

We met, laughed and lingered.  A few glasses were shared from a selection of bottles while we discussed the direction that we would like to go from here.  The decision was made to have one more session as a ‘meet-n’-greet’ as so many were away this time.  Next meeting is Sunday, October 3rd at 7:00pm.  This is when we will sort out a few more details.

A few who came out were surprised that this was an open membership deal.  I think the assumption was that it was an invite only club.  Apologies if anything said here has led to that belief.  In clarifying…

Next meeting is Sunday, October 3rd at 7:00pm.

Anyone reading here…feel free to join us, and if you have others interested…bring ’em along! 

We will cap membership at a specified number, but until that number is reached, it is open to all.  The only criteria…you have to enjoy whisky and want to meet people.

Finally…October 3rd will be something of an Islay night, based on early vote.  I (Curt) will have returned from this land of peat and smoke only days prior.  I’ve been asked to spill a little bit about the trip upon return.  Should have some pics and maybe video to share.  (Anyone care to do the powerpoint work?)

So…spread the word and round up your colleagues.  What is whisky without friends?

Until next update…Slainte!