Tag Archives: Angus McRaild

Decadent Dirtiness

Decadent Drams ‘Old Style Sherrywood Malt Whisky’ Blended Malt 23 yo
‘Guaranteed 23 Years Old’ (Filled 2001 – bottled 2024)
Sherrywood
587 bottles
45.1% abv

Damn. Old school. Like… ‘one-room schoolhouse’ old school. This is cherry brandy run through a coal miner’s work shirt; a 1930s train engine mechanic’s Pall Mall extinguished in a wedge of black forest cake; a back alley Turkish coffee to wash down a fistful of black cherries and pomegranate seeds; scorched licorice root dipped in engine oil and Buckleys elixir, used to muddle mixed berries. Very cool. Very challenging. Very much my style. More of these please.

From the back of the bottle: “This Decadent Drams bottling is a single sherry butt of Blended Malt ‘2001’. As we understand it, this blended malt stock was actually ‘filled’ in 2001 using a mix of component malts, most of whish were considerably older at the time, which probably explains its rather old school, classical sherry profile.” And just to up the intrigue, this was then re-racked into an ex-Ardbeg sherry butt for about a year. That 45.1% is cask strength, by the way.

Nose: weighty; Sunrype fruit bars; coffee grounds and potting soil; jams or maybe jammy dodgers; campfire pies; flaming brand new woolen socks; tea; menth.ol; soft licorice; blueberry. Palate: chewy but dry (like ground up Oreo wafers); vaguely medicinal; dirty dulce de lecce; more Oreo wafers smeared or stuffed with jams; a slight soapy undertone; some slightly over-oxidized notes that remind of old sherries (and maybe last-gasp, dump-the-remains port wines, too). Finish: long and muddy, but the fruits remain with a dry cocoa ashy-ness. Thoughts: a heavier, more primordial style; the Ardbeg influence is really only present on the palate, I find (altogether more Ardmore-ish than Ardbeggian; one to drink late at night in a remote Scottish bothy with a rough fire smoldering away to fight off the chill; balanced… so oddly, seemingly incongruously, balanced. 89.5/100

(CR)

“Islands in the Sound, that is what we are…”

Or something along those lines anyway. Sorry, Kenny and Dolly. Anyway… let’s dig into a neat little duo from Whisky Sponge.

There was a vision here: release a single cask bottling from both beloved Hebridean islands, Islay and Jura. A bottling that was naked in spirit and cask dressing, matured entirely on its respective island, and offered at natural cask strength. In one hand, we have a Jura from the early years of Whyte & MacKay ownership, and in the other, a Bruichladdich from the early years of the distillery’s renaissance. This would have been distilled after W&M finally relinquished the dormant distillery (and existing stock) from their portfolio to Mark Reynier, Jim McEwan, and the rest of the merry pranksters (so many beautiful souls). I have to commend Sir Sponge for sourcing these casks and knowing just when to bottle them. Plucked from wood at a seemingly perfect time in both cases.

Whisky Sponge Edition No. 96 Bruichladdich 19 y.o.
2005 – 2024
1st Fill bourbon barrel
206 bottles
55.8% abv

Everything I want in a Bruichladdich. We’re finally now seeing what one of the most interesting makes in all of ScotchLand turns into when it grows into adulthood. There’s a spellbinding audacity to a distillery making such a standout spirit. I have a feeling that Bruichladdich’s day is still to come.
Says Angus: “…tastes like Leviathan wrestling and Dolphin husbandry.”
Nose: Nutty; milky; sour and butyric (as expected in such an ‘exposed’ outing); lactic baby vomit; minerally; sour orange and gentle mandarin; medical tape; chlorine/pool water; white chocolate; vanilla candle; Scottish tablet. Palate: putty and chalk and clay (and any sort of organic, malleable, minerally kinda thing you can think of); a few drops of olive oil spilled into vegetable oil; smoke; toasted croissants; pears soaked in brine; blood orange. Finish: a lot of phunky notes going on here, but the phinish is very clean and cohesive. Thoughts: unexpectedly smoky on the palate; this one polarized at a recent tasting; I was one of the small handful that adored it. Unapologetically, a 90/100

Whisky Sponge Edition No. 97 Jura 30 y.o.
1994-2024
Refill hogshead
203 bottles
46.0% abv

Thirty years in a refill hoggy; utterly brilliant to leave it alone. Thank you for that. Refill wood with deep years is the recipe for most of my favorite drams, so I concede a bit of ‘excitement bias’ coming into this Jura. There’s also the fact that there simply are not enough ‘Paterson-influence-free’ Juras out there (or Dalmores or Fettercairns, for that matter). Any opportunity to engage with an indie Jura is fun.
Says Angus: “…tastes like cosplaying as a pirate while being lured into a whirlpool by a devious Mermaid.”
Nose: Bird’s brand custard; melty brie cheese; loads of soft tangled fruit notes (candy-like); beach bare feet; salty bread dough; yeasty and fermenty, leading into…; guava; tangerine; very faint mango; Juicy Fruit gum; very fishing village-esque. Palate: incredibly soft landing; salted, spiced custard or heavy cream; purple wine gums; yellow grapefruit pith; burnt pineapple; vaguely medicinal; sourdough crust; insect repellent; olive oil. Finish: very clean and elegant; minerally and almost herbaceous, or maybe that’s just the grains and oak. Thoughts: Either way, a very vulnerable nakedness that I adore 90/100 (+/- a point)

I was going to post this one separately, but it just seemed to fit here, so…

Islay Sponge Part IV Port Charlotte 20 y.o.
20 yo (2003 – 2023)
Refill hogshead
241 bottles
56.5% abv

Undoubtedly, one of my most adored recent releases. Port Charlotte is a top tenner for me (maybe top five) in terms of profile, and I can’t even begin to tell you how excited I am for a future full of well-matured PCs. I feel that Port Charlotte is aging like the finest of wines. It’s neat to see this coming-of-age, especially when we look back at those early PC number releases (PC5, PC6, PC7, etc)
*Special thanks to a mate of mine out west who was doubly kind with this one. I’ll spare you all the story, but to my generous benefactor: suffice to say, I have a wee package of reciprocity coming together oh-so-slowly (no excuses for my delinquency).
Nose: Warm suede; the collective smells of the farmyard (windswept fields, cow sh*t, and horse stables); mandarins, peach and, tangerine, and nectarine; Spanish cedar; sour yeasty notes, leaning into butyric acids; lime; tobacco/snuff; brine and a touch of ammonia; coal smoke. Palate: orange creamsicle; cinnamon and nutmeg sprinkled over peaches and cream; a soft but weighty smoke (like a moist ‘medium’ cigar. Yeah… I said moist. Twice); lots of citrus; lots of creamy, buttery notes; oily and heavy; I feel like I just kissed someone wearing shea butter lotion. Finish: archaic and absolutely bonkers in an ‘echoes of Brora’ sort of way; loooooooong, but never long enough. Thoughts: Ruben at Whiskynotes nailed it: Brora meets old Ardbeg, but there is an unmistakable McEwan era Laddie-ness, too. Let’s say, divide those three profiles into thirds? I think that’s getting to this one. I have to echo Ruben’s sentiments: “this is a future classic.” What a bottling. Smoky tropical baby puke at the ranch? 92/100 (maybe even 93)

(CR)