Category Archives: Whisky Features

Feature Interview – Ralfy interviews…Ralfy!

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One of the most fascinating pieces I have read in years is an interview with Tom Waits done by…Tom Waits!  The ever-charismatic Waits knocked one after another out of the park and had me both in awe and stitches through the whole article.  I think it is something unique in that the interviewee is finally able to say what they want to say and not be confined to call and response.  It opens up all sorts of doors that wouldn’t necessarily be opened.

 Most of us know Ralfy by now.  Being the affable chap that he is, Ralfy embraced this one head on and immediately agreed to share some insight.  And this is why we love him.

I won’t bother with a big lead in, as you either know him already, or will once you’ve read his piece.

Ralfy Interview with Ralfy

February 2011

For allthingswhisky.com

　

Ralfy:  Hello there, ralfy

Ralfy:  … Hello, malt-mate !

 

Ralfy:  What’s up?

Ralfy:  … Just checking over my latest recording, which happens to be WhiskyReview 183 – Caol Ila 30yo MacKillop’s Choice, an Independent bottling of thirty year old single malt at £90 ($143 Can:) … an affordable old malt for it’s age and worth the effort!

The emphasis with the Vlog (video-blog) is to advise anyone uncertain of what to expect from old whiskies, and how to get the best out of the smell and flavour.

I am also drinking a strong cup of coffee and will shortly smoke a lovely Nicaraguan cigar out in the garden potting shed so as not to upset my dear old mum with the smoke-smell … bliss!

 

Ralfy:  The Vlogs tend to be your speciality … why’s that ?

Ralfy:  … Well, I started two years ago with a conventional blog-format which I made ‘different’ by being flippant and humorous about the Whisky Industry marketing flannel and other stuff.  There are so many whisky related blogs that have appeared over the last few years so that to get noticed you have to provide something original and informative, or anything at all in the way of content which will potentially attract an audience.

I had the time to set things up then due to a shoulder injury keeping me off work for three months, and it was early on during this convalescence that my brother suggested I buy a video-cam and “do something”.

Having checked what was already on-line, It seemed to me that my completely irrational obsession with Scotch Whisky and the many years of non-methodical smelling and tasting had provided me with an approach to talking about whisky which was unorthodox and potentially entertaining.

A ‘Vlog’ was recorded in my back room (thereafter called the Artisan Studio) and after four (flustered) takes, I was reasonably happy with the results.

It was posted on YouTube and less than two years later and with thirty six hours of recordings now showing, over a million viewings have taken place. … Excellent !

 

Ralfy:  What’s the reason for the Vlogs success then ?

Ralfy:  … An informal, simple, unpretentious, irreverent, humorous, eccentric, disorganised chat which passes across my experience to encourage viewers in choosing, enjoying and thinking about whisky and other spirits.

 

Ralfy:  And what will we see over the next few years with your ‘stuff’ ?

Ralfy:  … More of the same, moderated, adjusted and enhanced by viewers feed-back and comments.  That’s one of the things about the internet format, it’s still new and fresh, anyone, and I do mean anybody at all … with originality and a knack for presenting their topic of choice can very quickly get noticed and gather an audience, all with a minimal outlay of cash and without the expense of publishing books, a professional reputation or T.V. contract.

With traditional media like radio, magazines and television, professional presentations are created at increasing expense which then go out to a large, but geographically restricted and potentially passive audience where people will generally experience the event once if they’re interested, … then it’s gone, either into archives or onto dentist waiting room tables.

The internet blogger can rattle off a short presentation in minutes with no editing, no expense, no script, no make-up, no ‘meetings’, no managers, no hassle … and soon after, can upload onto the internet for an interested, inquisitive, ‘waiting’ International audience who after reading or listening or watching (as many times as they want, whenever and wherever they want) then have an opportunity to comment, approve, criticise, add some content and generally interact.

The whole style of on-line commentary can be as unorthodox and unconventional as you want to make it and it does help to be as ‘different’ to traditional styles as possible, so I tend include all my bloopers, stumbles, mistakes and other mini-disasters whilst recording so long as the affable opinions and knowledge are passed across to the viewer who will hopefully be entertained as much as informed.

Hard at work in the Bothy

　

Ralfy:  Significant stuff ralfy … What do the Whisky Industry think of this situation then?

Ralfy:  … The older, traditional ‘executives’ (if they notice) are bemused and probably mildly irritated, but not too fussed so long as the standard Blended Scotch volume-sales grow in China and Russia … that’s where the main cash is.

The younger Industry professionals are generally more aware and comfortable with it because (luckily for the Industry) it is clear that the biggest majority of on-liners are sympathetic and enthusiastic, with no real Trolls (bad-guy internet’rs) spoiling things with a CrapWhiskyList Blog.com ( it will happen eventually! )

Recently, the Industry big-guns have extended hospitality and other sweeteners to successful whisky-bloggers in order to build relationships and this is a good thing, not just to acknowledge, but reward commentators who have spent time and effort on their Sites.  All the commentators are different in personality which adds a refreshing variety to the ‘mix’.

The hospitality is an option though, and any long-term commentator is wise to keep a certain distance from Industry Reps: as it is now clear that we are at the stage where readers and viewers are alert and sensitive to marketing-spin loaded blogging.

 

Ralfy:  A bit of conflict between producers and customers with the internet the field of action then?

Ralfy:  … Conventional marketing schemes have been focused recently towards Internet bloggers with attempts to offer bottles of whisky for ‘approval’, (I refuse the offers by the way! ) but significantly, the orthodox marketing message can very quickly get scrunched-up, re-jigged and lost completely due to the interpretative skills of internet’rs, both bloggers and audience.

I think at this stage everyone can see just how influential the Internet will continue to be as regards the successful promotion of any product and I am pleased to see that some producers are slowly responding to repeated and much discussed demands by whisky drinkers on-line for authentic craft-presented (no added colour, chill-filtering and 46%vol:) bottlings of Malts. (e.g. the Real Whisky Campaign which has still to find it’s big moment! )

Quite simply, a small number of reputable commentators (like Serge @ whiskyfun and John @ whatdoesjohnknow) will steer the attitudes and expectations of the far greater numbers of whisky-inquisitive customers Globally.

My own view is that the all drinks Industries should review their standards carefully.

We are after all willing to pay more money for true quality Spirits than mediocre standard blended whisky because we value the intrinsic smell and flavour and quality has value in economically tough times.

If the quality is not present, sales are lost, then reputation is diminished.

The internet has been the most important arena for whisky-fans to resist the dumbing down and ‘blanding’ of whiskies which the Industry have intermittently been accused of trying to achieve in the pursuit of greater profit margins.

– Just ask them about substantial investment in genetic modification of barley and even oak!

– Just ask about marketing consultants advising that creating a poorer quality product empowers the value of aggressive marketing messages!

– Just ask about “inactive cask” tolerance levels!

To some ‘Career Executives’ in the Industry, smell and flavour costs money, and costs must always be cut cut cut! for their bonus bonus bonus …. the deficit can be patched up later with enhanced marketing budgets!  People who actually know about production have their influence marginalised in decision making.

I think you can tell that this pisses me off!

That’s why I am a fan of the small Distillers though they to can have their shortcomings.

 

Ralfy:  Well, tell us why you’re increasingly a fan of the small Distillers (dispute some shortcomings)!

Ralfy:  … Small Distilleries the World over are the custodians of the traditional contemporary culture of production of alcoholic spirits, whether Whisky, Whiskey, Gin, Rum, Tequila … or whatever!

Large multi-national producers are by their very nature committed to huge volume and mass production as part of their survival and monopoly.

Nothing wrong with that you understand, but for me, something important gets lost …. Identity!

For example …the only part of Talisker which relates to Skye is it’s production as a raw spirit.

The only part of Springbank that relates to Campbeltown is … absolutely everything!

The small Distillers have by default a social commitment offering proportionally greater jobs per cost of production, community focus, tourism in remote areas, social interaction, uniqueness … and an enhanced personal product benefiting from local grain, hands-on production and a lack of over-rewarded top-heavy bureaucracy and ingrained politics which features in muti-nationals.

Importantly, the Big Distillers can buy the attention of on-liners with helicopter rides, large measures of old whisky. meals and other flattering stuff! … and in doing so comfortably keep themselves ‘in the frame’.

Small Distillers cannot afford this so easily and so I am increasingly featuring smaller and Independent Distillery whiskies in my Vlogs as a core feature of the ralfy-identity.

Viewers will notice that location Vlogs often feature small Distilleries and the characters who work in them and also other related services like Coopering and retail shops.

An important part of my personality as a commentator is an informal interaction with small Distilleries which works well because they are more than happy to open up the facilities which are great places to record many, if not all aspects of production.

 

Ralfy:  …And do they pay you like they do the professionals ?

Ralfy:  … No, I don’t even generally accept samples through the Post as this implies a commitment to review favourably despite providers’ assurances to the contrary.

In buying the bottles I review, I review the same whisky people buy and not a vetted small samples which the Distillers (for very legitimate reasons) ensure are the best version to promote their sales.

A perfectly understandable system which generally works for the Industry, but I avoid samples.

My costs (fuel, travel, food, buying bottles to review etc.) come from on-line linked advertising. I receive no payment from the Whisky Distillers. … it keeps things fresh that way! … and more fun too!

 

Ralfy:  So what do you see happening in the future ?

Ralfy:  … Chinese Whisky of good quality.  (Sooner rather than later)

Polish oak matured Vodka.

More World Whiskies from some very exotic places … hello Greenland!

Better quality matured and sipping Tequilas, Rums and even that Cinderella of Spirits, Cachaca.

Many Distilleries going into receivership and/or bought out.

Small Distilleries getting more noticed.

More internet sales of Spirits.

The internet increasingly influential in everything.

New hybrid Spirits.

Educational Drink Cruises as a holiday option.

Several new Spirit drinks never seen before like Rainforest Spirit and plant-Infused whiskies.

Marketing Departments going more ‘softly’ with messaging and more communities-interaction.

New grain-combo whiskies.

A Canadian Whisky renaissance.

Better Russian Vodka.

Scotland showing more self-respect to itself due to economic pressures, social unrest and unemployment problems.

The Isle of Man building it’s first proper Whisky Distillery.

… that’s enough predictions for now.

 

Ralfy:  Any advice for whisky-fans ?

Ralfy:  … Enjoy every drop from the bottles, but don’t drop the bottles.

Pick friends carefully, then share your Whisky generously.

Get your ‘system’ organised on the internet for working out where the best whiskies are and how much they cost !

Don’t suffer too much bullshit from anyone about anything.

Make time for silence in your life.

Smell and sip … slow, slow, slow !

　

Ralfy:  And finally ralfy, tell us about the Canadian Connection at ralfy.com.

Ralfy:  … There’s three !

… Firstly, it was the decision by the Scotch Whisky Association to spend a fortune in cash trying to prevent Glen Ora Distillery, Nova Scotia, Canada from using the word GLEN in its’ presentation of the Glen Breton Single Malt Canadian Whisky.

It was my personal sense of being deeply insulted and witnessing Scotland suffering offence with this ‘business’ decision that specifically instigated the first ever Vlog at ralfy.com WhiskyReviews (now review number 2)

Scottish culture, heritage and blood infuses Canada through generations and Scotland is very much a part of the fabric of this big Country.

… I cannot believe that any self-respecting Scotsman would have taken the litigious action of the Scotch Whisky Association.

… Another Canadian Connection has been the excellent hospitality of the organisers and people at the Victoria Whisky Festival in 2010 where I both recorded Vlogs and presented a masterclass ( a bit unorthodox, but it was popular! ) and despite offers from around the World, Victoria remains the only appearance of ralfy outside of Scotland at a Whisky Festival and this situation is likely to remain for quite a few years yet.

… The final Canadian Connection is (apart from having relatives in Canada) is my awareness that of all the Countries around the World, Canada has the best position in being able to re-invent it’s Whisky Industry with many exciting happenings going on including the use of Canadian oak for maturation, the refining of skills in multigrain distillation and the appearance of something genuinely new to the world of Spirits.  Check Davin’s excellent website canadianwhisky.org for Canadian-stuff !

　

Ralfy:  Thanks, Ralfy !

Ralfy:  You’re welcome.

Ralfy raises a glass

Y’see what I mean?  Thanks again, Ralfy.  Canada looks forward to having you back.

Slainte!

          – ATW

Port Charlotte – PC5, PC6, PC7 and PC8

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Port Charlotte

“It was Jim’s idea,” says Mark Reynier, CEO of Bruichladdich.  Mark is referring to the initiative to resurrect the distillery in Port Charlotte.  With the closure of the Inverleven Distillery in 2003, Master Distiller Jim McEwan saw an opportunity to purchase the existing equipment before demolition.  A team led by Bruichladdich’s General Manager, Duncan McGillivray, ventured to Dumbarton and dismantled the distillation equipment, bolt-by-bolt, and shipped it by barge back to Islay.

Though plans to put Islay’s ninth distillery into production have unfortunately met with delay, for all intents and purposes, this project is still a ‘go’.

For those not in the know, Port Charlotte is destined to be Islay’s next destillery. Pieces are coming together, and it is only a matter of time until whisky flows from the stills in the village of Port Charlotte. From 1829 through 1929 the Lochindaal Distillery produced a peated malt whose resonance lingered long enough to lead to Bruichladdich’s plans of renaissance.  The buildings in Port Charlotte are still in tact from a time when the heavy hand of prohibition led to the Lochindaal Distillery being mothballed, however the last known bottling from this distillery was opened and drunk in 1963.

At the time of writing (2011) there is an indefinite hiatus in terms of rebuilding this highly anticipated addition to Islay’s stable of malt producing giants, however, irrespective of this, Bruichladdich has been producing a heavily-peated spirit under the Port Charlotte moniker for a nearly a decade now.  Eventually, plans are to shift this production to what will be Islay’s newest phoenix…Port Charlotte.

Though we’ll likely never know what the original malt tasted like, the new Port Charlotte is an instant classic.  It is a whisky that is simply unmistakeable.  The releases to date are all are young, biting, citric, and carry that hallmark Bruichladdich buttery character. They are all smoky and peaty, with a phenolic character that seems contrary to the declared 40ppm peating level.  The heft here makes me think this is a conservative number.  Each also delivers a wonderful anesthetic feeling after a couple sips of each (not surprising at this high of abv).

Forgive me for not being able to source a bottle of PCMV (the latest Port Charlotte multivintage vatting, and sadly not available in Canada as yet), but in the meantime…here are the ‘Big 4’:

Port Charlotte PC5, PC6, PC7 and PC8

Port Charlotte PC5 Evolution

Bourbon and sherry casks 63.5% 40PPM 5 y.o. 6,000 bottles

Nose:  Black licorice.  Peat and smoke.  Thistly and green with a touch of new make fruit.

Palate:  Prickly on arrival.  Caramel, sharp greens, tarry.  New make peaks through a little.

Finish:  Green apple and waves of smoke.

Balance:  Young and sharp, but surprisingly already showing strong suggestions of what it will become.

Impressions:  A little Caol Ila-ish, believe it or not.  Somewhat fruiter and a little drier than the others in the lineup.  Hasn’t quite mellowed with that caramely butteriness typical of the others.  Not nearly as balanced as the others, but extremely charming in that ‘dirty girl next door’ kinda way.

–

Port Charlotte PC6 Cuairt-Beatha

Bourbon and Madeira casks 61.6% 40PPM 6 y.o. 18,000 bottles

Nose:  Bucketloads of peat and smoke.  Butterscotch.  Hints of dust.  Sharp and salty.  Characteristic Bruichladdich butteriness.

Palate:  Swirling smoke.  Tar and anise.  Caramel.  Citrus zest

Finish:  Neverending.  Hints of oak here.

Balance:  Deep.  Sooooo deep.

Impressions:  My favorite of the bunch. The nose, especially, is in a league of its own. Bold, unique, sexy. I adore this whisky.

The Port Charlotte Lineup

Port Charlotte PC7 Sin An Doigh Ileach

American Oak Finish 61% 40PPM 7 y.o. 24,000 bottles

Nose:  Sharp smoldering peat and smoke.  Pungent woodiness.  Enormous caramel sweetness.  Freshly picked garden herbs.  Cola and citrus.

Palate:  Dense smoke.  Touch of dill.  Mouthcoating.

Finish:  Everlasting, but what would you expect? At this ABV and this heavily peated these flavors ain’t going anywhere.

Balance:  A little more ‘in-your-face’ than the other two. But I likes…I likes a lot. I concede you’ll likely get a better balance out of the PC6 and PC8.

Impressions:  Seems most aggressive of the bunch.  Not sure why.  Tried this on multiple occasions against the others, and even had concurrence from fellow tasters.  Utterly delicious though.

–

Port Charlotte PC8 Ar Duthchas

Bourbon and Madeira casks 60.5% 40PPM 8 y.o. 30,000 bottles

Nose:  What else? Peat and smoke.  Amplified clean cucumber and hints of dill.  Toffee.  Cola.  Citrus zest.  Hint of chocolate.

Palate:  Fruitier delivery.  Slightly (and I mean ‘slightly’) easier smoke.  Sweeter and more caramel.  Citrus.

Finish:  Ssssssssssmoky and woody.  Fruitier finish lingers.  Green apple.

Balance:  Most balanced so far, but I miss the jagged tors of the earlier releases.

Impressions:  A little more complex, but I prefer the more youthful bite. Saying this is my least favorite of the three is really not giving this its fair due, as it is still one hell of a dram.

–

Dissecting these gorgeous monsters is hard. You first have to disassociate the alcoholic burn and peat/smoke components. If you can do that, you’ll still be hard-pressed to find individual characteristics. This is essentially the same whisky at different ages, with different finishes. Logically, they would be fairly similar.  The obvious solution would be to add water, but as said before…as soon as we start adding water it becomes hard to know that you’re tasting the same strength as anyone else out there.  This sort of negates the review.

My personal opinion is that it’s more logical to simply weigh degrees of flavor and aroma balance and decide which one fits your palate best.

The wait for Port Charlotte’s rebirth is like the wait for ‘Chinese Democracy’, but we’ll be here with glasses raised to Bruichladdich when it becomes reality.

Two Sherried Calgary Exclusives From Springbank and Bruichladdich

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Malmonster weighs in on two drams exclusive to the Calgary market (or as far as can be muled or shipped).  Great whisky at great shops.  I would recommend moving quickly if you hope to get your hands on these.

 

SMACKDOWN

 MANZANILLA   vs.   MANZANILLA

“THE RUMBLE IN THE ROCKIES”

Two exclusive Manzanilla Sherry cask 12 year old single malt Scotch whisky bottlings for * (CCCUFS) Calgary from Springbank & Bruichladdich.

A little background for the benefit of the great unwashed.  Sherry is a fortified wine made from white grapes in Spain. Fino is variety of Sherry that is very dry and pale as a Canadian after a long winter.  Manzanilla is a very light variety of the Fino Sherry.  Quality used Manzanilla Sherry casks are something that the accountants weep over because of the price.  Accounts are not well loved by most master distillers.

–

The contender Tommy Dreamer aka “Pretty Boy” for SPRINGBANK

Distilled 1996 – Bottled 2008 56.4% ABV Cask # 258 Manzanilla 12 Year old.  Limited to 594 bottles.  Bottled exclusively for Kensington Wine Market in Calgary.

NOSE:  Burnt sugar, spicy Partagas cigar, nutmeg.

TASTE:  Chewy vibrant spice, chocolate cake, almonds.

FINISH:  Long and warm, but very smooooooth.

ASSESSMENT:  Great stuff.  The people that helped choose this cask did a great job and should be consulted for any future cask selection.

Kensington's 1996 Springbank

The upstart Fit Finlay aka “The Belfast Bruiser” for BRUICHLADDICH

Distilled 1998 – Bottled 2010 55.8% ABV Manzanilla cask.  Limited to 240 bottles.  Bottled exclusively for Willow Park Wines & Spirits Calgary

NOSE:  Banana custard, chocolate fudge, honey.  There is way more here than I have described, may need some help on this one.

TASTE:  Creamy cappuccino, marzipan, orange peel.

FINISH:  Long and sensuous.

ASSESSMENT:  This will set your heart a-bubblin, on the rocky road to Dublin.  One of the best and most interesting sherry casks I’ve tasted from Bruichladdich.

Willow Park's Bruichladdich

* CCUFS: Calgary Current Center of the Universe For Scotch

          – MM

Feature Interview – John Glaser of Compass Box

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John Glaser is the man behind Compass Box whiskies.   His unique and uncompromising approach to the craft is nearly unrivalled in terms of innovation and determination.  This fierce drive and desire to break the mold have led to more than a few hackles being raised, and conversely…not a few glowing accolades.  While finding ways to work within the narrow confines of SWA regulation John has still managed to carve his niche and blaze a trail of originality.  His battles to bring The Spice Tree to life are legend now. 

Along the journey, John has littered the path with gems the rest of us are fortunate enough to pick up.  Hedonism, Eleuthera, Flaming Heart and The Peat Monster are but a few.  I would strongly recommend any whisky enthusiasts find their way to one of John’s tastings, and if that proves an impossibility…well…hit up your local specialist and tell them you want Compass Box.

Now.

Without further ado…

John Glaser.

John Glaser

ATW:  How did Compass Box come about?  Your history in wines and working with Johnnie Walker have quite obviously given you a formidable bedrock from which to start, but was there a catalyst that made you say “okay…here’s what I’m going to do…”?

JG:  Starting Compass Box came out of a realisation that I was in a unique situation:  I am someone who likes making things, who enjoys the creative process, and I found myself living in the UK with an idea for doing Scotch whisky in a different way (that of the craft-scale blender), access to purchasing whisky direct from the producers, and an understanding (due to my work) of how to bring whisky brands to market internationally.  One day, on a holiday to the island of Eleuthera, I simply decided I was going to act on this and do it on my own.  There did not seem to be any option otherwise.  It just seemed to make perfect sense.

 

ATW:  Can you explain the significance of the name ‘Compass Box’ and why you
chose it?

JG:  See:  http://server7.sky-map.org/starview?object_type=5&object_id=69&locale=EN

 

ATW:  Compass Box whiskies are beautiful marriages of only a select few components.  Was this more of an early reflection on the quality of certain whiskies and your opinion of how they would compliment each other, or a reaction to the homogeneity that is too often a product of blending many whiskies?

JG:  It was both.  My approach to blending is that I WANT the characteristics of key whiskies to stand out.  I don’t want to use so many components that you achieve homogeneity.  It’s a different approach to blending than others take.  I start by using component whiskies with significant character and build around that, adding a few other whiskies to enhance complexity, to complement, to create balance.

 

ATW:  When you started up Compass Box were you aiming primarily at whisky enthusiasts?  Has this changed over time?

JG:  I have always aimed at people who seek out good stuff.  Whether whisky enthusiasts or not.  The core mission of our business is to share the joys of great whisky with more people.  In the beginning, this was mostly picked up by enthusiasts, but as we ‘ve grown, our reach has broadened.

 

ATW:  Do you single-handedly create all Compass Box expressions?

JG:  As our business has grown, and as the range of what we offer grows, I have been helped enormously by Gregg Glass, my assistant.  I still create the direction for new whiskies and lead the creation of these through prototype development.  Gregg helps me with this and helps manage our relationships with the distillers, coopers and our bottler.

 

ATW:  Where does the inspiration for your new lines come from? Do you start with a specific end in mind, or build on the-go as you come across interesting casks that will form the foundation of something new? Have you ever reached out to your customers for input on new blends?

JG:  Inspiration comes from all over.  There is no formula.  I believe if you work hard and if you keep your eyes open inspiration will come along.  You can’t plan for it.  You have to just keep working.

 

ATW:  What can you say about the Compass Box wood policy?  You are purchasing mature (or maturing) whiskies to use in your blends, of course, but the wood you choose for final maturation will obviously have an influence on your end product.

JG:  Our policy is to work with higher quality, more active wood.  By higher quality I am talking about two aspects:  one is how active the oak is, which is based on how many times it has been used.  The more a cask is used, the less it has to offer in terms of flavour materials and the less complexity you are able to achieve in the whisky. Most casks in Scotland are far too many times in my mind.  Which is why so many Scotch whiskies are boring.  Secondly, I am talking about the inherent quality of the oak for maturation purposes.  This is based on the tightness of the grain, the type of seasoning (air-dried, which we prefer, versus kiln-dried), the duration of the seasoning, (generally, longer air drying of the wood creates more complex and delicious flavours in the wood), and the type of toasting and/or charring the wood is exposed to (this transforms the flavours in the oak further and very significantly).

 

ATW:  What is the Compass Box expression you are most proud of to date?

JG:  You mean, which child am I most proud of?  Hmm.  Difficult… .

 

ATW:  Going on a decade now, can you reflect back on the peer reception Compass Box received upon inception, and the esteem it is held in now?

JG:  Perhaps a question better answered by others.

 

ATW:  What has been the single greatest hurdle Compass Box has had to overcome?

JG:  My tendency to try and do too much.

 

ATW:  Compass Box has been the recipient of many awards (over 60 at this point, I believe).  Can you speak to the award that meant the most to you?

JG:  Our first award for Innovation was given to me in our second year, and it was presented to me by the late Michael Jackson.  I look back on this fondly, for he was such a tremendous influence on the world of whisky (and beer, for that matter!).  He was a devoted individual who worked extremely hard, right up until he passed away.

 

ATW:  When you hold master classes or tasting events, what is the message you really want to get across to the audience?

JG:  Share and enjoy.

 

ATW:  There has been mention of Compass Box tastings that allow a ‘blend at your table’ deal for attendees.   Can you elaborate on this and the inspiration behind it?

JG:  I simply believe that one way to change peoples’ perceptions of something, of anything, you need to offer them rational explanation for why their current perceptions are inaccurate.  To change the perception in whisky that blending is somehow bad (and anything “single” is supposedly good), I let people blend for themselves, using our components.  They see that when you start with high quality components, and just a few (not 30 or 40), and if you blend with care and with a stylistic objective in mind, you can make lovely things.  When people experience this, it changes their minds about the possibilities with whisky blending.  For ever and for good.  This is our “blending school” program which we have been running for several years now.

 

ATW:  …and finally, a fun one…

I believe you were a literature major.  Can you recommend a few book and whisky pairings for the Compass Box expressions?

JG:  Alfred Jarry and The Peat Monster.  I’ll buy a drink for anyone who
makes the connection between the two!

Thanks, John.  Your time and effort are appreciated.

The gauntlet has been thrown.  I wiki’d Alfred Jarry and am now more than intrigued.  Readers out there…if you make this connection please do not post it here.  Keep it on the downlow until you meet Mr. Glaser.  Let’s keep this challange alive.

Slainte

Feature Tasting – Octomore vs Ardbeg Supernova

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ATW’s good-hearted foot soldier and trained palate extraordinaire Maltmonster takes us on a head-to-head battle between the world’s peatiest drams…Bruichladdich’s Octomore and Ardbeg’s Supernova.  This particular collision is between the first release of Octomore (1.1) and Ardbeg’s latest incarnation of Supernova (SN2010).

At some point in the future I’ll put up my own notes for how these stack up.

Anyway…back to the here and now…

 

BOG PEOPLE – EXPOSED

TASTING OF TWO PEATED WHISKIES SUPERNOVA & OCTOMORE

 

Bog People also known as peat freaks, marsh mutants, peatophiles and phenol fanatics exist all around us. They hold normal jobs, eat normal food and they live just like normals, except they have a dirty dark secret.  They are addicted to layers of decaying vegetation called “peat”.  They roast their peat over barley, which they turn into alcohol in order to speed the delivery to their brains.  Most normals have no ideal as to the scope of the problem or the ability to recognize an infected person.

As a self acclaimed expert with months of experience I have no problem in identifying the people of the bog.  Four easy clues to identifying people who suck the bog juice are as follows;

1)  Language.  It’s a dead give away.  They use words like medicinal, tar, iodine, smoky, creosote, bonfire, diesel, reek. Learn these words and know the first warning signs.

2)  Visual.  Look around the house for bottles with  names like Authenticus, Ardbeg, Bowmore, Brora, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, Laphroaig, Port Ellen.  Be careful here, they are a tricky bunch and have been known to hide, or as they refer to it “stash”, their bottles.  Check the basement, attic and the garage.  They have also been known in extreme cases to hide their bottles at the neighbor’s.

3)  Leader.  Yes I said leader.  They follow and pay homage to the prophet named James Murray.  Again look around the house for books, and in particular look for a bible which bares the prophet’s name.  At the mere mention of the prophet’s name most bog people will stop whatever they are doing and immediately start chanting “Ardbeg whisky of the year, Ardbeg whisky of the year, Ardbeg whisky of the year”.  Know their leader and it could save your life.

4)  Promised land.  As strong as the need for some birds to head south for the winter, so is the desire for each Bog person to visit their promised land.  Their mystical home land is called “Islay”, which is an island off the coast of Scotland very close to Ireland.  They feel compelled to visit this island at least once in their lifetime.  Anytime the name of the mystical homeland is mentioned their eyes glaze over, drool falls from the mouth and they babble names of distilleries located on this mystical island.

Other warning signs of peat freaks in your midst may be breath smelling of a campfire, saved websites of distilleries on Islay, wills stating their bodies are to be interred on Islay.

Two commonly preferred whiskies drank by bog people are:

ARDBEG – SUPERNOVA (SN2010)

60.1 % ABV.      OVER 100 PPM

NOSE:  Strong smoke, farmy.  Lemon and pepper.

TASTE:  Salty, liquorice, some fruit.  Very chewy.

FINISH:  Long and warming.  Little dry.

ASSESSMENT:  Not as assertive as the Octomore and way more balanced with favor.

Ardbeg SN2010

BRUICHLADDICH – OCTOMORE  01.1   

63.5% ABV.   131 PPM

NOSE:  Creosote, Bolivar cigar, smoked oysters…hell maybe a smoked kitchen sink.

TASTE:  Intense smoke, salty and some young vanilla.

FINISH:  Powerful, robust and long.

ASSESSMENT:  Like the taste you get after breaking a bottle on the road and then spending the next hour licking it up.

Bruichladdich Octomore 1.1

 

Never, never use pepper spray on a peat head as they only enjoy this as additional favoring.  Also never use a stun gun on them as the many years of exposure to peat has left their senses so dull as to render the stun useless.  Never approach a large group of peat heads as they can be very dangerous.  I heard from a creditable Hollywood source that George Romero wrote Dawn Of The Dead after visiting some peat freaks on Islay.                         

If you find yourself trapped with a peat freak please remember the following:  Burn some smoky incense or light a fire which will serve to calm them; tell them you have to go to the store to pick some smoked oysters or smoked salmon to pair with their brew; Once outside phone the police, they are very adept in dealing with these deviants.

– MM

Bruichladdich – Redder Still / Blacker Still / Golder Still

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STILL WATERS RUN DEEP

           Tasting of a series of three one off bottlings from Bruichladdich;  Blacker Still / Redder Still / Golder Still

  

 

Well in this case the opaque colored glass vessels might hint at the liquid contained inside, but the greater depth of this product is what’s hidden inside.  The radically different favors of each bottle share little in common with one another other than they all were born of the Bruichladdich stills.

BLACKER STILL

20 YEARS OLD   1986-2006   50.7% ABV.   Limited To 2840 Bottles, Matured in Sherry casks.

NOSE:  Burnt caramel, raisins and ham.  Light smoke

TASTE:  Both tart and sweet.  Spice, chocolate.  Chewy for sure

FINISH:  Intense at first then fades quickly.  Medium to long

COLOUR:  Deep mahogany

ASSESSMENT:  I’m a sucker for scary Sherry, but this Sherry is more aggressive than a Christian Bale Rant. Not the Black Bowmore as someone suggested to me, but is still very good.

 

REDDER STILL

  

22 YEARS OLD   1984-2007    50.4% ABV.  Limited to 4080 Bottles, Matured in first fill bourbon casks and finished in Chateau Lafleur Pomerol Bordeaux casks.

NOSE:  Refreshing fragrant, marshmallow and creamy honey

TASTE:  Vibrant oranges.  Mulled wine.  Tad chalky

FINISH:  Long and gets more intense and warming at the end

COLOUR:  Copper amber

ASSESSMENT:  This has more wine than what was heard from Paris Hilton in jail.  Almost needed to break out the cheese for this dram.  Was a favorite of one of my neighbors who doesn’t normally like whisky.  All in all this whisky is a great example of wine finishing.

GOLDER STILL

23 YEARS OLD   1984-2008   51.0% ABV.  Limited to 4866 Bottles, matured in unusual rare squat bourbon hogsheads casks allowing more contact between whisky and wood.

NOSE:  Rich malt.  Apples and raisins.  Whiff of smoke

TASTE:  Oaky at first giving way to gentle cream.  Soft fruits

FINISH:  Medium plus a little more

COLOUR:  Straw gold

ASSESSMENT:   This works as well as Tom Hanks in the movie ‘Joe Versus The Volcano’, defies description.  One for the book of “easier to ask for forgiveness”.

I still think the common denominator with the three releases is that Bruichladdich is still trying, and is still leading the industry with new still and old still made whisky products.  So as long they are still producing, they can still count on me to be still buying their product.  Still I ponder in the still of the night what Bruichladdich meant when they named these three releases something still other than they were made from a still by a still-person or maybe they meant that they were excited to still be in business with all the big money players still out there.

– Maltmonster

Port Ellen

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Port Ellen.

The Holy Grail of Islay Malt for many.  The Port Ellen distillery was mothballed in 1983, and subsequently demolished.  The site is still home to the maltings (which supply malt to all of the Islay disilleries), but sadly the whisky that was produced prior to 1983 is all there will ever be.  These whiskies, especially the cask-strength Diageo bottlings, are highly sought after, collectable and obviously quite drinkable.

Our own incomparable Maltmonster, generous of time and spirit (both the drinkable kind and the inner sort), offered to supply some insider details from a little tasting he and a couple others put together.  I know envy is one of the seven deadly sins, but hey…may as well tack it on the list I’m already chaulking up.

Here is how it all came together.  I know of no other comprehensive review of all PEs like this, so my sincerest thanks to MM and the poor souls who got dragged along on this ride.  Withour further ado…

PORT ELLEN BY THE NUMBERS

 

WARNING VIEWER DISCRETION IS ADVISED

May contain scenes that rum drinkers find offensive. Intended for a malt audience only

May also contain content or scenes of debauchery, alcohol consumption and bad humor

Diageo’s Port Ellen 1 through 9.

Playing the Lennon / McCartney song Revolution 9 backwards it became suddenly clear that Charles Manson had it all wrong .The message that the Beatles were sending was to drink Trop Nelle and the number nine used repeatedly through the song meant consume nine different bottles

After convincing my friends of the true meaning of the message we undertook a grail like quest to acquire the needed malt. We a small but determine group of Diageo bashing Port Ellen loving maltsters managed to buy the 5th, 6th , 8th  and 9th release locally. The 7th release was acquired from New York .The 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th releases were acquired out of the wilds of Scotland.

So on a cold and snowy night in December we gathered together again, the infamous gang of four. Named after our failed attempt to take over control of Diageo in 2008. We now know which seemed to be obvious to others that owning whisky is not considered the type of stock that entitles you to vote at share holders meetings

The bottles are listed from one to nine, but tasted from nine to one as we felt that the older ones would have less of a peat influence on our nose and palates. We rated the PE as we drank them, comparing to the previous drams and so on. So at the bottom of each of the tasting notes is the combined average rating of the gang of four (1 being the best and 9 being the least favorite of the night) any ties were broken by the Maltmonsters vote

Heaven is indeed a place on earth.

Port Ellen # 1 Annual Release 1979 – 2001 22 Years Old 56.2 % ABV. Limited 6,000 Bottles

NOSE: Soft apple, musty and mild smoke

TASTE: Bubble gum, sweet, liquorice

FINISH: Long and lingering a little oaky at the end

ASSESSMENT: Good all around expression of PE. Good depth

RATING: # 3

Port Ellen # 2 Annual Release 1978 – 2002 24 Years Old 59.35 % ABV. Limited 12,000 Bottles

NOSE: Candied apples, iodine and tar

TASTE: Sweet and at bit winey with some milk chocolate

FINISH: Very long, a bit salty at the end

ASSESSMENT: The most intense creosote like of the group. Very robust

RATING: # 7

Port Ellen # 3 Annual Release 1979 – 2003 24 Years Old 57.3 % ABV. Limited 9,000 Bottles

NOSE: Fresh fruit, cut grass and little iodine

TASTE: Sweet, chewy and salty almost briney

FINISH: Medium to long

ASSESSMENT: Not an unpleasant expression just lacks some refinement

RATING: # 6

Port Ellen # 4 Annual Release 1978 – 2004 25 Years Old 56.2 % ABV. Limited 5,100 Bottles

NOSE: Sweet succulent oranges. Citrus delight. Fresh lawn clippings. Beautiful smoke

TASTE: Ripe fruit. Liquorice root and velvet smooth

FINISH: Long, lingering and warm

ASSESSMENT: I like this one a lot. Well balanced and complex

RATING: # 2

Port Ellen # 5 Annual Release 1979 – 2005 25 Years Old 57.4 % ABV. Limited 5,280 Bottles

NOSE: Floral, lavender, apples and pears. Subtle smoke

TASTE: Sweet, infused lemon .Vibrant on the tongue

FINISH: Long finish. Starts dry and ends up sweet. Little oaky

ASSESSMENT: The most balanced of the PE tasted. Refreshing to drink .Stunning

RATING: # 1

Port Ellen # 6 Annual Release 1978 – 2006 27 Years Old 54.2 % ABV. Limited 4,560 Bottles

NOSE: Floor polish, fishy and citrus notes

TASTE: Black liquorice, earthy

FINISH: Medium to long

ASSESSMENT: A little dull and plain . To astringent.

RATING: # 8

Port Ellen # 7 Annual Release 1979 – 2007 28 Years Old 53.8 % ABV. Limited 5,274 Bottles

NOSE: Cloves, lemon and sea-weed

TASTE: Honey to salty all in one waive

FINISH: Short to medium

ASSESSMENT: The taste really died on the vine. The least complex of the bunch

RATING: # 9

Port Ellen # 8 Annual Release 1978 – 2008 29 Years Old 55.3 % ABV. Limited 6,618 Bottles

NOSE: Lemon, nutty, bit of sulphur and a little oily

TASTE: Cinnamon, milk chocolate and pepper

FINISH: Very long and ending bone dry

ASSESSMENT: Have tasted this one numerous times and enjoyed each time .Seems not a favorite of the writers but this crews loves it. Well rounded and multilayered

RATING: # 4

Port Ellen # 9 Annual Release 1979 – 2009 30 Years Old 57.7 % ABV. Limited 5,916 Bottles

NOSE: Eucalyptus, floral, spruce needles

TASTE: sweet, light smoke early

FINISH: Medium to long

ASSESSMENT: The most elegant of the nine tried. Very pleasant malt to drink

RATING: # 5

Special thanks to the members of the gang of four for making this tasting happen (Extra special thanks to the unnamed person that supplied most of the malt). We will be having a do over once we located and secured a bottle of the 10th release.

Port Ellen 1 through 9.

“Just remember age doesn’t always bring wisdom, sometimes age comes alone.”

Thanks, MM.

Feature Interview – Jim McEwan of Bruichladdich

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This past September I spent a week touring the eight working distilleries on Islay.  Amid all of the phenomenal experiences, one shone above all others…My time at Bruichladdich.  The team at Bruichladdich have always prided themselves on doing things their own way, and apparently a hearty welcome was just another example of the Bruichladdich mandate.  I’ll spare you the details here, but if you care to hear a little more about the gang at Bruichladdich check out the following:  http://www.allthingswhisky.com/?page_id=236.

Unfortunately as I was touring Islay Jim McEwan, Bruichladdich’s Master Distiller, was in Toronto.  In lieu of the conversation were unable to have at the distillery, Jim happily agreed to answer a few questions for the faithful here at ATW.

Without further ado…

Bruichladdich's Master Distiller, Jim McEwan

Jim, can you tell us a little about your history in the whisky industry?

I Started at the age of 15 as an apprentice Cooper at Bowmore and stayed with Bowmore for 38 years, during which time I learned about Malting, Mashing, Distilling, Warehouse keeping, Blending, Marketing, Educating all sorts of people around the globe about Bowmore and other whiskies of course.

I lived in Glasgow during my Blending days and also during my time as the Bowmore Global Ambassador.

I left Bowmore in Dec 2000 and started in Bruichladdich on the 6th Jan 2001.

 

What does a typical day at Bruichladdich entail for you?

A typical day starts at 7.00 am with a cup of coffee and sort out my E-mails in order of importance and make a start on them.

7-30 am  Duncan and Allan arrive, and it’s a half hour of ‘whats happening throughout the day’ type discussion, what visitors are expected etc etc.

8.00 am – 10.00 am  Try and finish E-mails, which as you know is not without its delays, due to travel commitments or just way to busy preparing whisky for the bottling hall.

10-00 am – 12-30 pm  Warehouses to carry out Quality checks on casks or select casks for bottling

1.00 pm- 5-30 pm  A mix of meeting with visitors from our distributors or single malt fans who simply want to say ‘Hi’.

Check on the Mashing and Distillation with the guys.

Look after VIP groups and carry out tastings with them, plus find some more time to respond to the hundreds of mails I receive with questions on whisky…and I do try to reply.  Check with the bottling hall on what their requirements are for the next few days and check on the spirit that has been bottled that day.

5-30 pm  Chat with the operators on duty before going home for a well earned dram.

 

What role do you play, both artistically and technically (though at Bruichladdich these may be indistinguishable), in the creation of the Bruichladdich expressions?

My role is ensuring that the whisky we make is as good as it can be, that the whisky we sell is constantly as good as it can be.

I design new styles of Single Malts that I hope  will enhance the Brand and bring exciting flavours to new and old customers.  I also assist a little in the marketing of said products with ideas and concepts.

 

The Bruichladdich Distillery.

 

Are the more unique Bruichladdich expressions (such as Octomore, X4, PC5-8, etc) generally driven by an inspiration to smash boundaries or simply because you believe that they will be exceptional?

There will always be new and exciting products from us that’s the way we like it and so does the more educated consumer who wants quality and choice, that’s what we deliver.  Why?  Because we can, we  will continue to break down barriers plus we will always produce a high quality product and when the consumer talks we listen and take on board their comments.

 

In your opinion which characteristic of Bruichladdich most distinguishes it, not only from the other Islay malts, but Scotch whisky in general?

Being an unpeated Islay kind of sets Bruichladdich apart anyway, and the beautiful fruity sweet malt flavours which meld superbly with the oak make it an very easy and enjoyable spirit for the consumer to appreciate.  All the goodness and skill taken in making it is very evident due to  the quality of the Barley, the Casks and slow distillation plus the 100% maturation in the cellars by the sea make it truly unique, as most other distillers mature their stocks in central  Scotland.

Plus the fact that is produced with Victorian equipment in the time honoured way.  Bruichladdich is elegant, sophisticated, free from all additives and made by artisinal skills passed down the line since 1881. 

 

What factor of production would you suggest most directly influences and determines this character?

The speed of distillation and the cask quality.

 

Can you share a unique piece of Bruichladdich history that most of us wouldn’t know?

History WILL be made on 29th May at 8.26am 2011, that is when we will be 10 years old, it’s been a long haul but we are almost there.  Praise the lord.

 

Having been an integral part of the Bruichladdich renaissance, can you share some of the obstacles you’ve had to overcome in bringing it to where it is today?

The biggest problem was getting the distillery back into shape.  We have done well on a tight budget and carried most of the refurb work ourselves plus we still made whisky throughout the renovations.  There are many things still to be done and they will be done in time as we have shown with the building of a bottling hall, the changes made in the Stillhouse, the construction of a new warehouse and another about to be started in Jan 2011.  The team have been totally amazing, never a quibble or a complaint, and now we employ 50 people, which makes us the biggest employer on the Island outwith the Government who employ 62% of Scotland.

 

Are there any updates you can give us regarding the status of the Port Charlotte Distillery?

Port Charlotte is on the back burner due to the fact that we have to build new warehouses as I mentioned.

 

Can you share any insight as to the inter-relationships between the Islay distilleries?  Is there a high level of support and cooperation on the island?

The relationship between all the distilleries is and always has been first class, this will continue forever its an Islay thing and at the moment all distilleries are managed by local lads who have know each other all their lives.  It’s never been any other way.

 

What is your favorite expression in the current Bruichladdich range?

 At the moment I am in love with Black Art 2.  It’s absolute magic.

 

When not drinking Bruichladdich, what would your drink of choice be?

I love MORTLACH.  It’s my no. 1 Speyside, TALISKER  is another, as is BOWMORE, given that I helped to make a fair drop.

 

Is there one gem of a cask sitting in the warehouse you are itching to either bottle or drink yourself?

I have two casks of 1990 which I transferred into Chateau Y-Quem four years ago from Bourbon Barrels and it’s totally wicked.  No whisky should be this easy but it is and I love it.  No, its not for sale.

 

Can you give a hint as to what may be on the horizon for future Bruichladdich expressions?

Future Bruichladdich expressions?  Well today we started selling our own Gin made here in an old Lomond Still which I call UGLY BETTY.  It’s beautiful, very fresh and with the flavours of 22 Islay botanicals it’s dangerously drinkable.  It’s on our Web shop list so give it a try…you will not be disappointed.

Of course there will be unique bottlings like a 25 year old Oloroso bottling or Port Charlotte from a PX Sherry, lots of options it could be X4 in Château La Tour, watch this space.

 

'Ugly Betty'...The Lomond Still from which Bruichladdich has produced their (truly excellent) gin.

 

What can one expect if visiting Bruichladdich?

A warm welcome and a good dram .

 

…and finally…

What would you pour someone about to taste their first Bruichladdich?

Bruichladdich Classic would be my introduction malt to anyone trying Brookie for the first time.  It’s a mix of pre-Jim and post-Jim and it reflects all that is good about this distillery and all who work in it.

Warm thanks and sincere appreciation for your time, Jim.  Hopefully next time we’ll be able to share a dram.

In the meantime, readers…keep checking back in the coming days.  Part 2 of the Bruichladdich interview will be with Mark Reynier.

Slainte!

Duffies of Bowmore – The Ultimate Islay Whisky Bar

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No visit to Bowmore, or Islay for that matter, would be complete without a stop at Duffies Whisky Bar. Duffies is a part of the Lochside hotel on Shore Street just off the pier in Bowmore. The whisky bar is front and center when you enter, but the dining room toward the back offers a lovely view over Loch Indaal while you enjoy a rich and wonderful menu.

The unimposing facade doesn't even hint at the treasures within.

 After finding the bar, I couldn’t help but put in an appearance three or four times on my recent trip to Islay. Much of the island’s tourism is focused on whisky, and what better way to sample a dram or three while on the island (aside from those offered on distillery tours) than making your way down Shore Street to Duffies? The bar stocks over 260 Islay malts alone, with selections from other distilleries available as well.

The staff is friendly and frequently hilarious. One eve, while sipping an Ardbeg Renaissance near the bar, I overheard a gentleman ask the bartender what a certain coin in his hand was worth. Without hesitation the reply was, “that’s a two pound coin…we use those for tipping barmen”. Resounding laughs well deserved. I only hope that chap did indeed leave behind that coin. I shared a couple of great converstaions with the staff at Duffies. I only hope they can forgive me for not remembering them all by name. I’ll be back, folks. I’ll remember next time.

I sat down with Duffie himself one afternoon to chat about his beautiful bar, exceptional selection and life on Islay. Duffie MacNeill is man for whom a smile comes naturally. His thick Scottish accent had me paying careful attention as we settled into a pair of armchairs for a chat, lest I miss any of the nuggets of humor he dropped. He and his wife Roberta have owned Duffies for 8 years now. Conveniently (and often inconveniently, I’m sure) they live just two doors down. I saw a fair bit of Duffie in the bar while in Bowmore, but he swears most eves he is not there if he can help it. I also briefly met his lovely wife, though she declined to join him in the photo op.

Duffie himself mugging for the camera.

In its present incarnation, Duffies is stunning. The bar boasts gorgeous woodwork on the shelving, as you can see below, where the malts of Islay are proudly and prominently displayed. All local timber, of course. And weighing down these shelves? Well…a brilliant collection of Port Ellen, broad ranges of Laphroaig and Bruichladdich, a nice selection of young Kilchoman releases, Black Bowmore for the high rollers and a locked glass case showcasing an Ardbeg 1965. These are but a few of the offerings, many of which have slowly been migrated over from Duffie’s personal collection. The prices are more than fair. Your wallet may take a denting, but that will simply be from sampling many of the bottles, not because of Duffies’ pricing. A framed award on the wall from Whisky Magazine is almost redundant in confirming Duffies as one of the world’s premier whisky bars. One need only step inside to see for themselves.

The place was fairly hopping each time I dropped in for a dram or a pint of Finlaggen ale, and there was always someone to chat with. I met an engaging chap from Hong Kong, a great couple from England and a few American folks. Duffie says the tourist trade is varied, with a large contingent of Japanese and Swedish visitors. Lots of Fins and Canadians as well. Surprisingly, not so many from the US. He says there is no longer a short tourist season anymore, instead a steady stream visit year round. I visited Islay in late September and can attest I met travelers from all over the globe.

Just a part of Duffies' impressive collection.

It is now mid-October. I have been home for nearly two weeks now. I can honestly say that Duffies is one of the places on Islay I am already missing. Looking forward to my next visit.

http://www.lochsidehotel.co.uk/

Feature Interview – Mark Connelly (whiskywhiskywhisky)

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As more and more voices are joining the online choir of whisky chat, ATW thought it would be a good idea to draw attention to one that resonates a little louder than some of its peers.  Mark Connelly, of Glasgow, is helping to shape not only Glasgow’s whisky community, but the global community at large.  His forum (www.whiskywhiskywhisky.com) is a meeting place for malt lovers and anoraks from around the world to share tasting notes, news, gripes and all things related to whisky.  (Pssst…check out the Maple Leaf Lounge!).  The merit of such a deep pool of information is beyond question.  This is simply the leaping off point however.  Mark also maintains his own blog (www.glasgowswhisky.com), is a member of the Glasgow Whisky Club and is co-founder of the Glasgow Whisky Festival.
 
 Mark was an ideal candidate to be targeted for a chat with ATW.  He is the sort of easy-going humorous soul that we generally hang about with, and his experience and credentials speak for themselves.  Mark is also in a unique position of working in the industry and being a common drammer like many of us out there. 

In true ATW form, we sat down over an e-dram with Mr. Connelly and let him share some insight on the more demanding side of things before having some fun over music and lit.

Without further ado… 

 
 
 
 
ATW:  Everybody starts somewhere.  What was your first whisky?  Was it love at first sight (taste)? 

MC:  I think it was Laphroaig, somewhere in Glasgow, years ago. I loved the stuff. It was in a tumbler full of ice but that suited me fine at the time. I wasn’t looking for all the subtle notes and flavours, just something cold and tasty and alcoholic! I loved it. 

 

ATW:  There is generally a point of no return for whisky lovers such as us.  Do you remember that moment when you realized that you had gone beyond simple appreciation and moved into something more consuming? 

MC:  I think when I went to my first masterclass that really opened my eyes and took whisky from simply a nice drink to something that could be studied and discussed, as well as being enjoyable. From there I joined Glasgow’s Whisky Club and that really set it off. 

  

ATW:  What prompted the creation of the blog and forum? 

MC:  The forum came about because a few of us online were getting frustrated at another forum that we used. A couple of us had an idea to start our own and it seems mine was up and running first. We wanted something that we could make our own and that could evolve to suit us. 

The blog was simply a way for me to get stuff out of my head that was swimming around, but also to keep a record of places I’ve been and things I’ve done in a way that I couldn’t really do with the forum. It’s taking a blog back to the original use of an online diary, although there’s the odd bit of news and other things thrown in too. It’s mainly just for me but if anyone reads it that’s great too. It’s also a place to put Glasgow-based information as the city is under-represented in the whisky world in my opinion. 

  

ATW:  Before starting ATW I asked myself if I had enough to offer in creating a website and going live.  Did you have a moment like this, and if so, what tipped the scales? 

MC:  To be honest the forum was set up on a bit of a whim one night. Similarly with the blog. There’s been no real thought put in to either and they were easy to set up so I thought ‘why not’? I really need to design them properly at some point but right now there aren’t enough hours in the day.

  

ATW:  There is a certain level of responsibility that comes with blogging and reviewing whisky (or anything for that matter).  Let’s face it…others use this information to make informed purchases.  Have you ever given much consideration to the moral side of having a public voice? 

MC:  Since the blog is mainly for me I don’t really think like that. I try to watch what I say in case someone does read it but that’s more in keeping it politely written rather than misinformation. If you are honest then I think that’s the best you can do. I think Ralfy, whom you’ve interviewed, does so well because of his honesty. He also strives to keep his independence which is a big factor too as so many bloggers, writers and commentators are becoming more and more attached to certain companies. You can’t blame them as it’s their dream job to work in the industry but it does make you wonder if they can keep it unbiased. The only thing I am involved in is my festival which might get a few plugs here and there!

 

ATW:  Through the blog and forum you have helped facilitate a wide sphere of influence and allowed a lot of folks access to information that may not have been readily available.  That being said, where do YOU look to for your information? 

MC:  My forum! Seriously, the members are great at posting up news articles and starting discussions. They also regularly add to the tasting notes section which is great for checking whether you might want to buy a whisky as there’s usually more than one opinion to work from. Aside from that site I often pick up a lot of stuff from other blogs, but often it’s Facebook and Twitter where you hear something first. I also buy books, such as Malt Whisky Yearbook which is a great read, and discussions with friends and fellow club members. 

  

ATW:  Being the moderator of a whisky forum, and a damn good one (www.whiskywhiskywhisky.com), what trends do you see, not in the whisky industry, but in the people out there buying and drinking? 

MC:  I think there’s a definite move towards looking for value for money. The price of whisky keeps going up and up and with more limited expressions and fancy finishes (and packaging) it’s harder to find a good dram without spending loads of cash. Certainly that’s what I’m finding these days. The forum is a good place to ask for opinions before buying and for finding good, affordable whisky. There definitely seems to be a little bit of a backlash against all the finishing and wacky casks being used. 

  

ATW:  Do you have plans beyond the current medium you are using (blog/forum)?  

MC:  I have plans for something whisky-related which will have an online aspect but it’s not really a part of that. What I do have coming up is an exclusive bottling for the forum members. I’d really like to be bottling good whisky myself on a regular basis but as stocks are becoming harder to get hold of due to demand that might not be something I can really count on. I am in the middle of redesigning the forum but there’s nothing more I’d like to do online at the moment. I have another idea but I really don’t have the time or resources for that right now. Not giving much away, am I?

 

ATW:  The Glasgow‘s Whisky site has some fantastic photography.  You have a unique approach to shooting that shines as one of the signatures of the site.  Can you speak to the visual side of what you publish on the blog?

MC:  Photography has been a love of mine since before whisky and I was semi-professional at one point, meaning I occasionally got paid for it! I was really into music photography at one stage, shooting bands live from the photo pit at gigs was a great buzz. There just wasn’t really any money in it. I still enjoy photography a lot but I prefer to keep it as a hobby – something for myself – rather than work. I have been shooting a few distilleries recently so I might do something with that in the future. Distilleries are, mainly, a great place for photographers (as long as they don’t give you that ‘explosive environment’ crap!). It’s nice to be able to illustrate the blog articles with a few good photos and I’m lucky that I can do that without needing to source stock images or anything like that.

 

ATW:  How much of your time is devoted to whisky?  Is this hard to reconcile with work and family?

MC:  Hahaha! Yes, very hard. We have a young baby and my going out to a club night or other tasting isn’t looked upon too well right now. Work is now the festival and the other venture I can’t talk about so it’s just family that I need to balance. It’s not easy, though.

 

ATW:  Speaking of committed time…how did your role as organizer/founder of the Glasgow Whisky Festival come about?

MC:  Just like the forum this came about due to frustration at what was currently available. In my opinion Scotland’s largest city should have one of the biggest and best events but unfortunately this isn’t the case. Hopefully we can change that, although iit might take a couple of years to get properly established and build up to something really impressive. We’ve managed to pull in a pretty good lineup for this first one which has a good mixture of producers, including independent bottlers, which has been lacking with the other event here.

 

ATW:  Did you set out with a certain theme or image in mind for how the festival should ultimately turn out?

MC:  The idea was really as many and as varied as possible, and purely focusing on the whisky itself rather than all the sideshows that can sometimes come with these events. We wanted to get all the independent bottlers in Glasgow involved and also the local bars and whisky enthusiasts. The tagline ‘by Glasgow for Glasgow’ sums up our philosophy pretty well.

 

ATW:  How about a few pairings for us?

1)  A good book and malt to accompany it?

MC:  Just finished reading The Rum Diaries by Hunter S Thompson (before they make the film) which I would suggest reading with a large Aberlour A’Bunadh (you’ll need it)!

2)  A good album and malt to accompany it?

MC:  One of my favourite albums of all time is Appetite for Destruction by Guns and Roses. I remember listening to it full blast on my Walkman whilst cutting my parents’ lawn in the summers between years at high school. I would need to listen to that with something big, youthful and a bit wild, something like Ardbeg Still Young.

3)  A good meal and malt to accompany it?

MC:  A great big pot of mussels with a Laphroaig Quarter Cask.

 

ATW:  What is the one malt out there that you are itching to get your hands on?

MC:  If money was no option I would love a bottle of Black Bowmore. I have tried a sample twice and it is one of the best, old, sherried whiskies I have tried. I would love to have a bottle of that. Maybe one day…

 

ATW:  Finally…Can you share your best malt moment to date?

MC:  The best moment for me is whenever I get to try whisky straight from the cask in a warehouse. I hate going to those distilleries where you can’t do anything but have a quick look at the equipment and then you are whisked off to a brightly-lit, heavily-branded tasting room. The warehouse is where all the magic happens and to be able to open a cask and try the maturing whisky in that cool, damp, dark, sweet-smelling atmosphere can’t be beaten.

Sincere thanks, Mark.   (Not only did Mark excuse the delinquency in shipping these questions off to him, he replied within hours).

Readers…if you aren’t already a member or lurker at www.whiskywhiskywhisky.com, I strongly advise a visit.  There is much to learn, even if you don’t care to join in the chat. 

Whisky Whisky Whisky Forum – www.whiskywhiskywhisky.com/forum
Glasgow’s Whisky Festival – www.glasgowswhiskyfestival.com
Glasgow’s Whisky (And Ale) Blog – www.glasgowswhisky.com

 

Slainte!