Category Archives: Whisky Reviews & Tasting Notes

Black Bottle Review

Black Bottle

40% abv

Score:  76/100

 

At one time Black Bottle, one of the flagship whiskies coming out of the Bunnahabhain distillery on Islay, boasted that it was composed of malts from all of the Islay distilleries.  I’m not convinced that is the case anymore.  One, because Kilchoman is simply too young and biting to be an integral blending comonent as yet.  And two, because I don’t believe certain distilleries, such as Ardbeg, are really letting any casks go for blending nowadays.  If you know more…feel free to correct me.

Forgive my sloth in covering this one.  Such a storied blend deserves more than the seeming afterthought status I would appear to have given it.  Truth be told, this only recently became available in my locale (well…a few months back anyhow).  I drank it in gulps and guzzles on Islay a while back, but that was more an opportunity to get to know this oft-referenced blend than it was out of any sense of appreciation.

So why the solid rep and rather shining reviews from most?  To be honest…I’m not sure.

This blend is nothing more than ok.  Perhaps this is a batch variance issue.  I have seen a couple different bottlings (packaging and all), so who knows?  This, as I sit sipping, however is malty and feinty.  Very much like the smells in an Islay distillery.  Not surprisingly…some light smoke and very raw peat.  More restrained than you might imagine though.  I’ve read that the component malts are thought to be at least seven years old.  That should give you an idea as to how subtlely this will sit upon the nose/palate.  I’m sure digging a little deeper might elicit a fruit or two, but then again…maybe not.  Who cares though?  I don’t think that was the point.

A wee bit peat-healthier on the palate.  Salty.  I would guess this recipe is highly dependent on the Bunnahabhain for its profile.  Some very restrained fruitiness (though which fruits I couldn’t tell you) and a gooey honeyed sweetness round this one out.

Not bad.

Caveat!  Caveat!  Caveat!  Most of us are used to our Islay whiskies bold and as pungent as old gym socks.  Errrr…maybe just ashtrays and seaweed.  Either way, don’t expect that big mule kick to the noggin that ‘Islay’ usually infers.  This is much subtler, and pulls a Phantom act.  Half of its face is there to be admired….the other half hidden behind a mask of grains.

Overseas this stuff is cheap as borscht.  That certainly adds to the appeal when budget is a factor.  Here in Canada…~$50-55.  You can buy better for that kind of price point.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Alberta Premium (And A Little More…)

A Few From Our Friends At Alberta Distillers Limited

Snugged in not far from the heart of Calgary, just miles from the foot of the Rockies, lies one of the whisky world’s most surprising little secrets.  Namely, Alberta Distillers Limited.

This very industrial looking distillery – leagues apart from the polished copper stills and tour-oriented distilleries of Scotland – is a deceptive little giant.  However, much like in Scotland, the people who run Alberta Distillers are the lifeblood of the company.  A while back a few members of the collective were fortunate enough to tour the distillery and were treated to an absolutely exceptional experience.  The ADL family welcomed us like long lost family members.  From initial contact with recently retired quality assurance manager Kathy Pitcho to our behind-the-scenes tour with Distiller Rick Murphy, this was a warm downhome experience.  The tour itself was both enlightening and entertaining, and the overall experience was every bit as memorable as any overseas distillery tour I’ve taken.

While it is easy to hunt and peck the web (or bookshops) for all the ins and outs of Scottish distillation, details regarding Canadian whisky production are a little more obscure.  This opportunity to spend some time with the faces behind the whisky we love was a treat.

After the tour proper, we were taken back to ADL’s tasting lounge for a dram (or four).  The lounge is a site you simply have to see.  Much like the throwback tasting room in a distillery like Lagavulin, this charming little sitting area is straight out of a time long gone.  Loved it.  As we settled in to sip a flight of whiskies, Distillery manager Rob Tuer joined us for a bit of blind tasting.

We were afforded the opportunity to sample a couple of (as yet) unbottled expressions, under the caveat that we not mention what was being experimented with, as well as an offering from the general release spectrum.  After a bit of fun, several laughs and a brilliant little bit of interaction, we were actually thanked for having asked to come (!!) and each sent off with a bottle of Alberta Premium and a nifty little gift.  Truly unbelievable.

It was great to see that the people at Alberta Distillers are as special as the whisky they make.

While this piece has been a long time in the making, I did sincerely want to take the opportunity to share a little bit about our hometown pride.

ADL’s flagship expression is Alberta Premium, a young 100% rye whisky, rich in spice and sweetness.  And while this whisky is a stunner in its own right, the distillery has also managed to awe the legions of Canadian whisky drinkers twice in the past couple of years.  First with a stunning 25 year old limited release, and then again last year with an equally winning 30 year old.

Stay tuned.  I happen to know there is a further surprise in the coming days.

A big ‘cheers’ from ATW to ADL!

 

 

Unaged Rye (aka ‘new make’ or ‘white dog’)

abv unknown

Nose:  Almond paste.  White chocolate.  Cherry.  Saltines.  Caramel corn.

Palate:  Popcorn.  Almond.  ‘Bitey’.  Silky Delivery, then…WHAM!!  Hottest spirit I have ever tried.  Salty and savoury.  Fast fade.

Thoughts & Impressions:  “A glass of Chuck Norris”

 

Alberta Premium

40% abv

Nose:  Mild artificial lemon.  Light cocoa.  Amazingly clean grain.  Vibrant.  Crunchy berry.  Caramel.

Palate:  Apple.  Sheaves of grain, dripping caramel.

Thoughts & Impressions:  One of the best Canadian spirits going.  And undoubtedly the best price point.  There is always a bottle of this at home.

 

Alberta Premium 25 y.o.

40% abv

Nose:  Lumberyard.  Fresh cut pine.  Dust.  Char and wax.  Bit o’ eucalyptus.  White pepper.  Old dunnage warehouse.  Very dry spiced fruit.  Vanilla.

Palate:  Pine and big grains.  A very mature 25.  More fruit than on the nose.

Thoughts & Impressions:  This has seen more wood than Pinnochio’s girlfriend.  Lovely and charming, and deserves undivided attention to discern all of the nuances.

 

 

Alberta Premium 30 y.o.

40% abv

Nose:  Deep char.  Almost a note of ‘burnt’.  Smells younger than the 25 y.o. expression, and the fruits are certainly more prevalent.  Orange and cherry.  Pine.  Creamy caramel

Palate:  Mature…smoky…waxy…oaky.  In essence…old.

Thoughts & Impressions:  I remember initially liking the 25 more than one.  Not so sure anymore.  Truly a fantastic offering from this distillery.  Up until recently was still available.  You’ll be hard pressed to find it now.

 

Alberta Springs 10 y.o.

40% abv

Nose:  Creamy.  Orange zest.  Gorgeous spice balance.  Rich caramel…bordering on over-toasted.  Sweet and ‘produced’.  Entirely pleasant…better yet…comfortable.

Palate:  Super sweet.  Midway carnival caramel apple.  Very sweet.  Clean and pleasantly spicy.

Thoughts & Impressions:  Hmm…tough one.  Something seems…not natural here.  Lovely, but don’t overthink it.

 

– ATW

– Photos:  Bottles & Glasses…Curt, Cask…Pat

Highland Park 25 y.o. Review

Highland Park 25 y.o.Bottle Shots 2 009

48.1% abv

Score:  91/100

 

Highland Park makes damn fine whisky.  And one of the neatest things about this distillery is that they make good whisky at almost any age.  The 12 year old flagship is an absolute go-to malt for many folk I know, while the older expressions are the things to serve kings and queens.  And the 18, of course, is oft considered one of the world’s great whiskies.

A few loping strides further along though, is where you start to see the majesty of this distillery.  As you enter the two decade mark for Highland Park (and beyond, if you’re one of the fortunate few), you’ll see a character almost unparalled.  Part of the reason for this is simply due to the fact that the spirit itself carries such a diverse profile.  At once honey sweet and richly smoky.  You’ll find complexity and individuality in any of the range’s expressions.  So…you can only imagine what happens when you allow a malt like this to take its time and mellow in the cask for a few extra years.

Bottled at a still healthy 48.1% abv, after 25 years in oak, this thick rich nectar is a beautiful brunette I’m more than happy to curl up with.  A real charmer, rich in huge notes of sherried fruits, faint billows of peat smoke and chocolate.  Complimentary notes are a soft dried fruitiness, honey nougat (think Toblerone) and a toffee creaminess.  Finally, there is a rich and comforting note of fine unlit cigar all over this whisky.  You’ll find a wee bit more smoke than peat (deep and dark smoke), though both are more restrained than in younger expressions, and fine layer of salt over it all.

A beautiful dram.  Really.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

BRORA ……….. A Story Of Change

The story of the Brora distillery is a confusing one, so for the benefit of the great unwashed I will try and explain.  The Clynelish distillery was born in 1819 in Brora, Sutherland and operated under the name Clynelish distillery until 1968, after which the owner changed the name to the Brora distillery.  It then operated under the name Brora distillery until it was permanently closed in 1983.

Congruently in 1968, a new larger distillery called the Clynelish distillery had been built across the road by the same owner as the old Clynelish distillery, now the Brora Distillery.  The new Clynelish distillery was using the same production personnel, accessing the same water source and copied the same still design as the old Clynelish distillery.

The old Clynelish distillery, now called the Brora distillery, was not needed and was to be mothballed.  Because of drought conditions on Islay, the Port Ellen distillery could no longer meet the evil owners’ demands for peated whisky used in their blends so the Brora distillery was then used to produce a peated style of whisky to satisfy that requirement.  In 1983 such a surplus of whisky existed in Scotland that the Brora distillery was deemed surplus to demand and was finally put down, along with the Port Ellen distillery and a few others by the evil minions of Diageo.

Name changing is not new; history is full name changes.  In the case of the Brora distillery the owners changed the name for a reason, which I believe was to keep the well-respected name of Clynelish alive.  The past is full of other notable name changes to serve a purpose, some good, some twisted, while others are not so easily understood.  Some examples of other prominent name changes are:

– Gordon Matthew Sumner, after a run with the law, changed his name to Sting

– Anakin Skywalker was forced to change his name to Darth Vader

– Franc/Deutschmark/Peseta/Drachma/Kroner/Punt/Lire became the “Euro” and then became paper worth a little less.

– Prince Rogers Nelson was born a Prince, then abdicated to become a former Prince, then symbolized himself and finally we hope, kissed a frog and turned himself back into a Prince

– Marion Michael Morrison road into the sunset with the name John Wayne

– Brad’s Drink fizzed into Pepsi-Cola

– After the death of (Phil Krundle ) Landfill, his brother Gil Krundle took his place and then he changed his name to Landfill

– Ralph Lifshitz metamorphosed into Ralph Lauren

– Ernesto Guevara de la Serna had cause to become Che Guevara

– Cigarette brand giant Philip Morris Co. Inc., changed its name to the soothing and friendly Altria Group

 

So to honor this once great and now lost distillery, we gathered the Gang of Four (named after a failed attempt to gain control of Diageo through the voting stock at an annual meeting of the shareholders) together and sat down on a rainy June evening in Calgary to enjoy a range tasting of Brora malts.  We assembled together six wonderful Brora malts but the more things change the more they stay the same, which is why we included a Clynelish malt in with our Brora malt range tasting.  With each malt, we openly discussed tasting notes, mostly enjoyed each other’s company and noted our top four malts of the night.

 

 

Clynelish 14 year old

46% ABV

NOSE:  Candy sweet, citrus fruits, fresh cut grass, waxy.  Pepper and a hint of varnish.

TASTE:  Tart, ginger, again some citrus notes, salty and nutmeg.

FINISH:  Medium and drying at the end.

ASSESSMENT:  A change to a more peated version would do you good; yes a change would do you good.

 

Brora 21 Year Old 1977 / 1998

56.9% ABV

Rare Malts Series Bottle #2758

NOSE:  Creamy caramel, bit winey. Lemons, oranges and some spice.

TASTE:  Lemon drops, soft wood smoke, black liquorice and very honey sweet at the end.

FINISH:  Medium-long.  Lovely delicate dram.

ASSESSMENT:  Ch-Ch-Changes pretty soon you’re gonna get a little older, time may change me but I can’t make Diageo reopen the distillery and produce a great younger malt as this.  Tied for the second place malt of the night with the 32 year old.

 

Brora 30 Year Old 1975 / 2005 

56.3% ABV

Special Release Series Bottle #2155 of 3000

NOSE:  Caramel, musty, elegant smoke and lemons.

TASTE:  Pepper, citrus, peaty, black liquorice and a hint of eucalyptus.

FINISH:  Long and lingering.  The English refugee in the gang said “you like this because it reminds you of Port Ellen”, mocking me for my love of Port Ellen (Note to self…must check with Canadian immigration to see if he’s in the country legally).

ASSESSMENT:  Don’t go changing to try and please me you never let me down before, release 2005 I said I love you and that’s forever and it’s a promise from the heart, I couldn’t love you any better, I love you just the way you are.  Have tried numerous bottles of Brora over the years, and the 2005 has always been my favorite and was again rated hands up the number one favorite of the night.

 

Brora 25 Year Old 1983 / 2008

56.3% ABV

Special Release Series Bottle #352 of 3000

NOSE:  Farmy and floral, burned butter, oranges.

TASTE:  Very herbal, smoky, citrus and bit briny.

FINISH:  Medium and little salty at the end.

ASSESSMENT:  Diageo now and then I think of all the times you screwed me over and had me believing it was always something that Calgary had done and I don’t wanna live that way now, Brora you’re just a distillery that I used to know.

 

Brora 30 Year Old 1979 / 2009

53.2% ABV

Special Release Series Bottle #893 of 2652

NOSE:  Cherries and oranges, vanilla, candied fruit, sensuous smoke and a little farmy.

TASTE:  Liquorice, green apple tart, lemons.  Where did that complex nose go.

FINISH:  Medium to long and a little oaky at the end.

ASSESSMENT:  We love the peated malt so we keep waiting, waiting on the distillers to change it’s hard to be persistent, when we’re standing at a distance so we keep waiting, waiting on the distillers to change.

 

Brora 32 Year Old 1979 / 2011

54.7% ABV

Special Release Series  Bottle #1353 of 1500

NOSE:  Sweet cherries, lots-o-fruit, lemon and eucalyptus.  Farmy and grassy with infused smoky notes.

TASTE:  Very herbal, pepper and briny.  Citrus notes.  Oily and lots of tannins.  Lots of focused layers to be found on the palate.

FINISH:  Medium to long and a touch briny at the end.

ASSESSMENT:  There were times when I thought the Brora stocks would last for long but now I think they can’t carry on it’s been a long, a long time coming but I know a change gonna come, oh yes it will and Brora will live on only in our memories.  Tied with the 21 year old as the second favorite of the night, although the 32 year old had more number 1&2 votes combined.

 

Brora 30 Year Old 1976 / 2007

57.5% ABV

Douglas Laing Old & Rare Platinum Bottle #63 of 109

NOSE:  Succulent ripe cherries, lemon & lime. Farmy and a little musty.

TASTE:  Black liquorice, delicate peat smoke and a bit briny.  Citrus notes and some raisin.  Waves of taste.

FINISH:  Medium to long. Little oaky at the end, although still very pleasant.

ASSESSMENT:  If the stocks of Brora were to leave here tomorrow, would you still remember the taste and if Brora were to reopen things just wouldn’t be the same cause this new Brora would be a different malt and this malt you shouldn’t change, lord knows it shouldn’t change.  Great showing for this malt and was rated a strong number four of the night.

 

– As always, your humble drudge, Maltmonster

 

A Calgarian went to see a judge in order to change his name.  The judge asked what his name was.  The man said, “My name is John Edmontonsucks.”

The judge says, “I can see why you want to change your name, but what do you want to change it to?”

……………………….“Michael Edmontonsucks”

Macallan Fine Oak 10 y.o. Review

Macallan Fine Oak 10 y.o.

40% abv

Score:  80/100

 

Yawn.  Underwhelmed.  Where is the Macallan of fame and repute that so made the eyes of Michael Jackson (ahem…not that MJ) light up?  Sadly…not here.

This is not a bad whisky by any stretch of the imagination.  It is simply nothing special, and absolutely does not stand up to the Macallan name.  There is a vaccuum of character.  Nothing really ‘off’ here…just don’t expect to be ‘wowed’.

Very Speyside in character (excepting the lack of a nice deep rich sherry wood which may have ratcheted this up a notch or two), with dusty oak and red fruits leading the barley train.  Found this one to be a little dry and figgy as well.  Also on the nose:  a hint of orange…some honeyed woods…cereal…and in all honesty, rather sharp and thin.  Macallan promises so much more.

This pale young’un carries that thinness over to the palate as well, though arrives with a bit more bite than I would have expected.   Not a lot of subtlety.  Youthful and kicking.  The high notes from the citrus here are pleasant however.  It mellows rapidly in the glass and allows the ‘woody’ profile to bully its way to the forefront.  Indeed this seems quite young.  The finish, mostly oak notes, is relatively short.

Overall it comes across as a little too simple, underdeveloped and underpowered for me, but charm finally comes with the balance after 15 or 20 minutes in the glass.

As I said…not bad.

 

Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Glenkinchie 10 y.o. Review

Glenkinchie 10 y.o.

43% abv

Score:  83.5/100

 

Good friend, neighbor and bandmate, Jay, brought this over on a whisky night I threw together for the guys a while back.

Wandering around a local liquor store, with his iPhone as a reference tool, he found a couple of solid reviews for this whisky.  Enough, anyway, to convince him to make the investment.  Well…it ended up being a long night, and by the end of it Jay had gotten pretty deep into this bottle, and unfortunately for him, he hasn’t been able to touch it since.  The last couple ounces are now in my cabinet, sans the dram in my glass which I am working on right now.

Though I was pleasantly surprised that night, I must concede a less than pure palate when I first tasted it.  Not only had I been sipping a myriad of whiskies, I had most recently been enjoying a glass of Laphroaig and a Cojiba.  My tastebuds were already singing loud and long before I even got to this whisky.

It was truly a pleasant surprise to open the bottle this eve and be reminded of why I enjoyed this.  Light, not overly complex, yet smooth and enjoyable.  Good beginner’s whisky.

On the nose it is easy to pick out individual notes.  Something bittersweet like maybe grannysmith apples first.  Some oak, buttery caramel, malt and sweet hay.  A bit grassy and herbal.  Puts me in an autumn frame of mind.

On the palate it arrives with a bit of heat, but quickly mellows into flavors of distant maltiness, oak and prairie grasses.  The sweetness is much more prevalent on the nose than the palate, though you still get a green fruitiness on the tongue.  There is an herbal note, somewhat akin to a good sauvignon blanc, that often defines the Lowland whiskies, which seems uncharacteristically tame in this whisky.

It is a rather thin dram, not much in the way of coat-your-mouth-goodness, with a medium finish.  Last note to fade is a nutty oakiness.

My second impression of this bottle was almost as good as the first.  Nothing I would rave about, but a bottle I would have no problem paying for.  One of the better young Lowland whiskies I’ve met to date.

Final note:  Apparently being a part of Diageo’s enormous stable means only about 10% of Glenkinchie’s production is bottled as single malt.  The other 90% ends up in blends.  A shame really.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Forty Creek Barrel Select Review

Forty Creek Barrel Select

40% abv

Score:  87.5/100

 

Oh man, is this nice.  The sweet smells and flavors of fresh baking.  All of my early memories, heavy laden with Canadiana and prairie life, are brought forth with a vengeance.  Gramma making homemade bread and buns, sweet fruitcakes, grains and cereals…farmlife.  Serious nostalgia here.

Forty Creek is a blended Canadian whisky produced in Grimsby, Ontario from rye, barley and corn.  According to wiki, each grain is fermented, distilled and aged separately (between 6 and 10 years) before vatting.  Some of these are sherry-finished.  Unique and interesting.  Just like the whisky itself.

For the malt enthusiasts out there…c’mon…branch out.  Live a little.  Canadian whisky can be quite stunning, and for the minimal investment required to nab a decent bottle (<$30), what have you got to lose?  It is a refreshing change, and adds an element of smooth, sweet and unbelievably rich flavor to your whisky collection.

Back to the Barrel Select…

The nose carries the downhome scents of oven-fresh baked goods, as mentioned, but rounds these out with a whiff of smoke, creamy caramel and shake of vanilla and nutmeg.  Yeah…it really is that nice.  Most of this is also be found on the palate, with a bit of chocolate and fruit as well.  The depth of this whisky and the waves of intensity are surprising considering this is a mere 40% abv.

The finish is of medium length and carries lingering chocolate.  Damn, is this nice.

Rewarding and satisfying.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

McClelland’s Lowland Review

McClelland’s Lowland

40% abv

Score:  62/100

 

Not only dull and flat, but actually unpleasant.

It is surprisingly difficult to write about bad whisky.  There is so much in a good scotch to admire and speak about…so many brilliant qualities to draw attention to.  Unfortunately…very few of those are to be found in this bottle.

I want to start out by saying that I truly appreciate what McClelland’s (owned by Morrison Bowmore) is trying to do here.  This series of bottlings are an attempt at creating an entry level line of whiskies, wherein each bottling represents a distinct scotch whisky producing region (Islay, Highland, Lowland, etc).  Though they haven’t necessarily failed in capturing some of the dominant characteristics of said regions, they have left out one important ingredient.  Quality.

There are some deep, dark unpleasant notes on the nose here.  Something bitterly floral/weedy and pungent.  Almost feinty.  It is razor-sharp and zesty, lacking any form of subtlety.  I get a touch of peppery something-or-other as well.  Nothing seems to work in harmony here.  A little time in the glass mellows the pungency a bit, but does nothing to address the off notes.

Tastewise…well…a little better, actually.  It has an alcoholic bite that affirms its youth, and delivers buckets of floral notes and bitter greens.  Still not good, but better than what you get with your nose in the glass.  From here, the finish is all heather and meadows, and thankfully short.

It is hard for me to say that, as for a whisky to earn high marks from me, it must have a long finish that doesn’t deliver sour notes at the end.

Unfortunately, not a lot to say on a positive front here.  Steer clear.

…and for those curious…if you care to know which distilleries are actually producing these young malts of the McClelland’s line…look no further than the stable of Suntory’s malts.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Glenfiddich 12 y.o. Review

Glenfiddich 12 y.o.

40% abv

Score:  83/100

 

By show of hands, who here didn’t cut their teeth on this whisky?  The world’s best selling single malt, and deservedly so.  Not because it is the best, mind you…but because everything here is done right.  This is the perfect introduction to the world of whiskies.

Glenfiddich 12 y.o. is what we call a branded whisky.  Purists, scoff and raise your noses all you like.  I, like you, have a tendency toward the craft whiskies, but have learned in humility that some things, no matter how much we want to dislike them (ahem…Nickelback), are popular for a reason.  We want to blow the dust off of some obscure bottle and pour a glass with reverence…but a hard lesson to learn is NEVER put prestige before your taste buds.

The branded whiskies, like Glenfiddich are produced with an eye to consistency.  Generally bottled at 40% abv, colored with E150 caramel, packaged uniquely and identifiably and well marketed.  I think the idiom behind this is something along the lines of, ‘we found a good thing…and if it ain’t broke…don’t fix it’.  For this reason, the integrity of a bottle of Glenfiddich is for the most part uncompromised in terms of batch variation.  Every bottle is similar…every bottle is good, and it is readily available at a good price.

Is the Glenfiddich 12 a great whisky?  Well, no.  Is it a good whisky?  Absolutely.

The nose is gentle.  You can safely stick your beak right into the glass without eyes watering, and pull in a deep breath.  The rewards are sweet fruit and light spice.  Apple and chunky pear.  Perhaps vanilla.  Something refreshing there as well.

The simplicity of development is the biggest charm here, I believe.  Arrival is sweet and fruity.  A little bit of spice and creamy vanilla.  A little woody.  This isn’t one that unravels slowly and allows you to pull strands of flavor out individually, instead it is a nicely layered whisky that gives it all to you at once.  I have read of others picking out hints of peat and nut, but…not really seeing it.  The finish is pleasantly long, and the aftertaste mild.

An early evening sipper for certain.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Balvenie Signature 12 y.o. Review

Balvenie Signature 12 y.o.007

40% abv

Score:  84.5/100

 

“Fifteen men on the dead man’s chest

Yo-ho-ho, and a bottle of rum!

Drink and the devil had done for the rest

Yo-ho-ho, and a bottle of rum!”

I am not won over yet by this whisky, but I am intrigued enough to occasionally feel its lure from behind the closed door of my cabinet.  The Balvenie Signature 12 year old is a nifty l’il whisky.  Its character is surprisingly assertive.  Just the thought of certain drams is enough to paint a vivid picture for me (the Islays come to mind…as does the Fusion).  This is just such a whisky.

So, why the sea shanty (fictional or otherwise) atop the page?  Well…I don’t really know.  All you need to know about this whisky is that it is absolutely defined by its overwhelming woodiness.  All I could think of was pungent wet wood.  Resinous planks soaked in whisky.  This in turn led me to…pirate ships.  Hey…I said it painted a picture.  Didn’t say it was logical.  Now tell me you’re not thinking the same next time you sip.

This Highlander spends 12 years maturing in first-fill bourbon, refill and sherry casks.  The rich deep color obviously imparted through the latter.

There is wood (obviously) on the nose.  Sherry and all the dry fruitcake notes that usually accompany it make an appearance, as does marmalade.  Some spice, scones and vanilla.  The nose is massive and deep, and very nostalgically pleasant.  Almost…dusty somehow.  This is much bigger than I would have expected from a whisky at only 40%.  I have to use the word ‘pungent’ again here to describe it.

Across the palate…a little thinner than I’d like, but not overly.  It leaves a dry finish, similar to sipping a big-bodied cabernet.  Those fruitcake notes are all over the tongue as well.  Raisins…plum perhaps…a hint of rum.

The finish rolls on and on like waves against the barnacle-encrusted hull of said fictional pirate ship.  A finish that lingers is imperative in whisky, however the last notes in this one are not all pleasant.  There is a slight bitterness at the tail end.  I would score this higher if the mouthfeel was a little more beefy.  Oh well.

This whisky really is a grower.  Though uncertain about it at first, I find I appreciate it a little more every time I pour one.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt