Category Archives: Whisky Reviews & Tasting Notes

Fettercairn Fior Review

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Fettercairn Fior

42% abv

83.5/100

 

Here’s a fiery little number from the Old Fettercairn Distillery.  What the hell is with the color on this one?  Wow.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a vibrant shade of orange/amber in a whisky before.

Apparently ‘Fior’ means something along the lines of ‘pure’ or ‘true’ in Gaelic, but based on color and linguistic similarity, my first guess would have been something more like a Latin noun for something along the lines of ‘fire’.

Alright…now that I’ve expounded on my linguistic ignorance, let’s move on to the Fior.

There is a sweetness here that borders on liqueur.  Big bold orange notes meet a sweet smokiness and tangy sherry before splashing headline into pools of caramel and melted Swiss chocolate.  There is a pronounced floral side to this as well that almost reaches the point of ‘perfumed’.  Finally, a big over-arching citric note that adds a sort of electric zing to the experience.

Chinese spice and slightly plummy now on the palate.  Wine now.  Something with a bit of spice and pepper to it, like a Shiraz (lacking the flavors of a shiraz, to be sure…I’m speaking more to the characteristics of tannins and spice).  Dry plum skins.  Hmmm…odd one.  When this was first given to me, I spoke with the fine chap who passed it over to me and asked if he had noticed an odd textural quality to it.  I said it seemed almost gritty, like it had a very fine particulate in it.  He said, in not so many words, that I was off my f’n rocker (he’s actually far too much of a gent to say that, but either way…did not see what I was speaking of).  I did notice though that our mate, Serge, over at Whiskyfun has referred to it as chalky.  Maybe we’re on the same page?

Anyway…neither spectacular nor one to avoid.  I kinda had fun with the Fior.  Decent entry level malt.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Ardbeg Renaissance Review

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Ardbeg Renaissance

55.9% abv

Score:  90/100

 

Fires of hell, is this hot!  Unbelievably explosive.  Ardbeg rarely fails to deliver an enormous whisky, both in terms of aloholic content and a flavor profile so defined it is nearly a caricature.  “Renaissance” is no exception.  This is the fourth installment in Ardbeg’s “young” line, which has allowed us to witness Ardbeg maturing from “Very Young” to “Still Young” to “Almost There” to this ten year old cask strength…”Renaissance”.  Brilliant little campaign that I wish we Westerners had been allowed to partake in.  Sadly none of these expressions hit Canadian shores.

Recent trips to Islay have allowed me the opportunity to try all of these young beasties however (and perhaps mule a little home for my personal stores), so why not share a few details?

The nose on this hot young cracker is peppery like a young talisker.  Freshly cracked black pepper.  The chocolate and fruit notes are reminiscent (no kidding) of a Cadbury Fruit & Nut bar.  Sharp peat, citrus and smoke are generously splashed all over a clean medicinal backdrop.  Though the nose doesn’t hold a candle to the tang of the palate on this one, I am blown away by just how razor-sharp it is.  Almost brittle.

First sips…kinda like tongue-wrestling a mouthful of porcupines.  Prickly as hell.  Hot and peppery, smoky and peaty.  Some smooth chocolate here as well, but think mole chile.  I adore the firey anesthesia that comes part and parcel with this Ardbeg.  When the heat finally wavers a touch (some time later) what remains is the typical green apple skin peatiness and a tart, drying mouthfeel.

Not my favorite Ardbeg, but still head and shoulders above 95% of its contenders.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Ardbeg Almost There Review

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Ardbeg Almost There

54.1% abv

Score:  89/100

 

So here we are rounding third.  Ardbeg’s next-to-last step along the way to reaching a standard ten year old release.  So this, rather logically, would be a nine year old.  (I say ‘rather logically’, however this four part series actually only saw releases at 6, 8, 9 and 10 year marks).

So…the name of this expression begs the question ‘almost there to what?’  Simple answer…a flagship 10 year old comprised of distillate produced entirely in the age post-restart-up.

Coming into the homestretch it must have been a hell of a pleasant run for the guys and gals at Ardbeg when they realized that there was a rather decent shot at restoring the distillery’s stocks to the quality they once were in its earlier incarnation.

The nose on the Almost There is wet rock, salt and smoke.  Lemon peel and vegetal peat notes.  Cereal notes still carry through, with the barest dash of almond paste.  Vaguest hints of some sort of white fruit.  Maybe, jus’ maybe, a bit of some sort of ‘lemon clean’-type polish.  Anise or fennel, and powdered ginger (not the fresh stuff!).

Smoke and sharp tangy citric notes hit the palate first.  A salt licorice flavor too.  And to compliment the salt?  Pepper, of course.  The grains are there with a touch of oak and vanillins at the end, meeting that familiar tartness on the finish.  At this strength you get to see all the beautiful nuances Ardbeg is now being recognized (and lauded) for.

Underdeveloped?  Sure.  Unrestrained?  Absolutely.  Rather exceptional for this age?  Hell yeah!

On to the Renaissance…!

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Ardbeg Still Young Review

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Ardbeg Still Young

56.2% abv

Overall:  88.5/100

 

Well now…this is a zippy little lad.  If you’ve read many of these short reviews on ATW, I would imagine you know by now that I have a soft spot for young peaty whiskies, and a less than clandestine appreciation for most things Ardbeg.  So here’s the deal…most Ardbeg is produced in the same manner.  The differences in expressions tend to be from different bottling ages, or possibly different woods.  When the root of the spirit (or ‘new-make’) remains constant, and is exceptional, the derivatives are bound to be of a fairly uniform high quality as well.

Sigh.  Unfortunately I occasionally feel like I have to justify my Ardbeg adoration.  This will be the last time.  Hey…they make bloody good whisky.  Why shouldn’t I say so?

So, where does that leave us in terms of the Ardbeg Still Young?  This is the second bottle (of four) in the ‘Path To Peaty Maturity’ series, so what can logically be expected is an abrasive young whisky which has not had all of its sharp corners knocked off yet by mellowing in wood.  It is a cheeky young barroom brawler, flipping its kilt up, and rolling with the punches.  At 56.2% abv, it is Ardbeg as Ardbeg is meant to be seen.

The nose is enormously Islay.  Buckets of sea water, iodine and smoke.  Extremely medicinal.  It is fruity, with the grains hidden deep…very deep…in the background, and wave after wave of smoke blocking most individual notes anyway.  You truly don’t think that’s a bad thing, do you?

The palate delivers some mouthwatering fruit, primarily green apple and lemon rind.  More salt and…have I mentioned smoke?  The sheer blunt force delivery of heat and alcohol carry the finish on for infinite amounts of time.  In all honesty I’m not sure what could possibly wipe these flavors off the tongue.  Still Young loses a mark or two for overall balance though, as there’s something slightly ‘off’ in the latter stages of development.  Can’t quite put my finger on what note it is I’m having trouble with here.

Strong showing for a young Ardbeg nevertheless.  If you can find it…grab one.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Ardbeg Very Young Review

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Ardbeg Very Young

58.3% abv

89.5/100

 

When our saviour, Glenmorangie PLC, came to the aid of malt lovers ’round the world, purchasing the defunct remains (and priceless old stocks) of Ardbeg, little could they have foreseen the coming renaissance that they would be responsible for.  This event, in the year of our lord, nineteen and ninety-seven, marked the birth of a movement.

Daily…globally…legions of Ardbegians swoon and hang on every word uttered about Ardbeg like the second coming of this Islay distillery is no less relevant than the…

Wait…’saviour’…’renaissance’…’second coming’…

Before I finally cross the line into explicit blasphemy (which I do frequently, but not often in the greater blogosphere if I can help myself), let’s settle down and focus on the malt at hand.  Ardbeg Very Young.

After a significant amount of investment on the part of Glenmorangie (pounds, time and labour), the copper stills bubbled, the new spirit flowed and whisky met wood.  Six years later, in 2004, Ardbeg had in hand the first in their ‘Path To Peaty Maturity’ series.  Though old Ardbeg is the stuff of legend, and well nigh worthy of killing your first-born for (sorry…couldn’t help myself), how would this new Ardbeg distillate hold up?  Exceptionally well, it would turn out.

Nose:  Fiery, fiery pepper and dry smoke.  Young chilis and spiced greens.  Lemon and peat, freshly grated citrus zest and newly cut hay.  Grassy with subtle splashes of milk chocolate.  Ripe and sweet…just emerging.

Palate:  Spritely and alive.  A coarse pepper bite meets brine and seaweed (nori).  Smoky bonfire and a sweetness reminiscent of chewing the soft centers out of grains right off the stalk.

This really is a great young Ardbeg.  I’ve seen some rather unforgiving notes on this one, but I don’t buy into that line of thinking.  Score well-deserved and rather indicative of the possibilities open to a distillery with a spirit this clean.  No…this is not over-rating it.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Port Ellen 6th Release Review

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Port Ellen 6th Release043

54.2% abv

Score:  92/100

 

An absolutely stunning example of how a peated malt can mellow into one of the most breathtaking spirits on the planet.  This is whisky pulled from the cask at its apex and bottled to be held in a perfect state of suspended animation.

You may not be able to get behind all that Diageo does, but it’s hard not to give credit where credit is due.  Case in point; these natural releases of Port Ellen.  Some better than others, of course, but man…they really are in a league of their own.

Now before I start fending off the ‘Islay fanboy’ accusations, just keep in mind that this is a 27 year malt.  27 years to age and soften, develop and ‘become’.

The nose…coastal and oh soooo sexy.  That beautiful mature peaty profile plays well against a backdrop of fruit cocktail and Lemon Pledge.  Notes of salted greens and melon.  Phenols are rather tame and old wood brings that vaguely dusty latex scent.  Creamier than I would have expected in all honesty, but still manages to hit some of the more jagged tors that cask strength Islay whiskies often boast.  And finally…notes of seaside familiarity.  At this age…rather delicate (even at 54.2%) and Caol Ila-ish.

Large and in charge delivery.  Oily and bold.  Love the smoky seaweedy notes and coastal profile.  Dusty cask, licorice, tar and iodine.  Green apple skins on the finish.

A great dram.  In short supply, but long in our hearts.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Caol Ila 18 y.o. Review

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Caol Ila 18 y.o.

43% abv

Score:  90/100

 

Long days I’ve waited for this one.  I held off and held off.  Some reviews spoke of mediocrity and of this malt not adding much to the range that can’t be pipped with the flagship 12 y.o.  Hmmmm.  What the f*ck were they drinking?

Sadly, this expression is few and far between in Canadian stores.  In fact, I believe that what is still around today is simply the dusty ol’ dregs of previous allocations that for whatever reason never sold.  In one l’il neighborhood ma and pa shop I managed to find this one.

Caol Ila, by nature, is a fairly delicate spirit from Islay.  It may seem counter to intuition to refer to a heavily peated Islay malt as ‘delicate’, but think of it as a ‘Notre Dame’.  Beautiful and seemingly fragile, all buttressed and decked out in ornate gothic accoutrements…but still made of stone.  Not much different here.

I gotta say too…18 is a damn sexy age for Caol Ila.  There is a beautiful balance between vibrancy and maturity.

The nose boasts notes of something slightly ‘green’ (but frustratingly intangible and metaphorically elusive).  Some aloe and honeydew melon are well met by mild citrus and a brininess typical of Islay.  Fruits start to emerge at this age and the mild feintiness that accompanies the 12 y.o. has faded by this point.  Of course the smoke has also done the slow fade as well (though not a full retreat).

Delivery is great green fruit with a hint of smoke that wasn’t so prevalent on the nose.  Veers into green apple and peat from here before a vanilla oaky finale.  Light and satisfying.

As to those other reviews…

All I can say is…what were they thinking?  18 is a great age for Caol Ila.  Do not turn your back on this one if you can find it.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Pat

Macallan 18 y.o. Review

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Macallan 18 y.o.

43% abv

Score:  91/100

 

Macallan 18.  As revered and maligned as the monarchy.  Weighing in on this one is a somewhat tricky affair that relies on suspending preconceptions and allowing the senses to decide.

The contentious point with Macallan is always price.  Sherry casks are, of course, much more expensive than bourbon casks, but still many question whether what they get in their glass with Macallan is worth so much more than, say Glenfarclas or GlenDronach.

I have my own opinions here, somewhat tempered from what they initially were, but I’ll keep those cards close to my chest and again…allow the drink to work its charm on the nose and palate, bias aside (as much as anyone can).

In all honesty though, this is as near to faultless on the nose as you can get.  Beautifully rich and elegant.  The sherry is vibrant and warm, chewy and very, very soft.  A little bit of chocolate and grape meet fresh cherry and orange.  There’s a dusting of nutmeg and wood spice over creamy toffee.  A hint of heather.  This is a malt to savour over refined vices, like good old novels and great cigars.

The palate brings the mildest of dried fruit flavors, but mouthwatering sweetness as well.  Sweet caramel and warm melted chocolate follow, bringing notes of quality oak.  The finish lasts none too long, but boasts a beautiful top note and denouement.  Exceptional.

It took me a while to fully come ’round to this one, but I’m won over.  Great dram from the royalty of Scotch whisky.

An older edition I’ve tried (1981) is even better than this.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Bowmore 15 y.o. Darkest Review

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Bowmore 15 y.o. Darkest

43% abv

Score:  84/100

 

Years back, Bowmore was one of the old vanguard producing malts that carried a gorgeous fruit profile, often tropical and exotic, moreso than the slightly one-dimensional releases of late.  Trust me…I’ve tried them.  These malts, primarily from the 60s, 70s and 80s are really something to behold if you can get your paws on ’em.

Many an eve has been spent on quiet ponderence (errr…sometimes rather boisterous) with members of The Collective as to just what happened to change things, and what it would take to get back on track.  A few distilleries, we’ve noted, actually seem to be moving in the right direction of late.  Won’t mention them here, but the next decade or so should be rather interesting.

Anyway…

I’m not the biggest fan of the new stable of Bowmore. Let’s get that out front first thing. I have tried several of them and to date, still reach for the 12 year old more often the others. Even that is only slightly better than middle of the road malt to me. Bowmore is held in such esteem that I immediately expect more from them. Perhaps this is unfair. Perhaps not. With well over 200 years of history and more awards than any other Scotch single malt, expectations are bound to be high.

But having said that…refer back to first paragraph.  Bowmore has produced some of the greatest whiskies I have ever tasted.  Where I used to be rather lukewarm to the distillery, I have more than come round.

Let’s move on to the Darkest itself…

There seems to be more smoke here than the 12 y.o., but a tad less peat. The peaty edge logically fading a bit with a few extra years in wood. I would sort of expect the smoke to peter out a bit too, but…doesn’t seem to have. The nose is smoky chocolate, treacle, sherry and bacon. Fairly fruity (but dark dried fruits) and a little grassy. There is something dark and menacing in the back fire and brimstone?  Not entirely pleasant. Funnily enough…one of the eves I tried this, I did so with a group of others. One of them (Scott) said it “has a darker side to it”. True…very true.

The palate is slightly bitter but fairly mellow overall. The smoke and chocolate are primary here with the sweetness tagging along like a perky little brother. Tangy peat and fruit skin are there too. It is the smoke that lingers though, with a tart finale that trumpets its last fading call long after your final sip.

This is another malt that absolutely benefits from some oxidation.  I can almost guarantee you’ll enjoy this bottle more after it has been open and sat for a couple of months (if you’re the sort who doesn’t drain them in days, that is).

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Grants Family Reserve Review

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Grants Family Reserve

40% abv

Score:  70/100

 

A review a couple of years in the offing.  For no other reason than a slightly traumatizing first meet and compromised first impression (if ever we raise a glass together I’ll fill you in).  I like to think that by this point I am coming in with no bias, but who knows what residual shudders are still going on up in that mass of gray matter.  The subconscious is a tricky beast.

So…from what I understand (unsubstantiated rumor, at best, but seems plausible)…dash of ‘Fiddich…splash of Balvenie…couple others in smaller proportion…and a heaping helping o’ grains to prop it up.  Correct me if I am hearing wrong.

What we end up with is…(drum roll)…a blend.  No more.  No less.  Certainly not great, but neither is it offensive.

The nose is malty and grain-rich.  Slightly feinty and just barely staying afoot under the weight of caramel, mashy notes and a dense cloudy homogeneity.  A wee lot of peat as well.  If I’m to be truly honest…this is why blends get a bad rep.  This is simply boring and lifeless.  Hunting for individual fruit notes and such is nearly a lost cause.  I know they must be there.  Water would normally open a whisky up and allow some of those lighter notes to blossom, but as this is only at 40% out of the bottle…if you have to add water…what’s the point?

A mouthful yields more of that weighty maltiness.  Sweet barley and dull caramel.  Only here do we begin to get hints of what may be dried fruits.  The finish…meh.

 

Comment:  Yet another one where JM is off his f’n rocker

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt