Author Archives: antihero7

Compass Box Spice Tree Review

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Compass Box Spice Tree

46% abv

Score:  91/100

 

An interesting tale, this one.  Compass Box originally released “The Spice Tree” back in 2005, to what I understand was considerable critical acclaim.  A messy little ado rose with the SWA (Scotch Whisky Association) over the method of maturation, and in turn ended in “The Spice Tree” being deemed ‘illegal’ by SWA standards.  Fast forward a couple of years, technical snafu worked out satisfactorily to all parties, and voila…the re-emergence of a truly enjoyable vatted malt.

Damn.  What a neat little product Compass Box has put together.  A celebration of true whisky production evident in the lack of chill-filtration or artificial coloring.  Brilliantly bottled at a healthy 46% as well.  The whisky itself is a lovely rich golden amber color with thick legs if you give it a gentle swirl in the glass.  Oily and rich to the eye as well as the palate.

First thing to hit the nose is a big spicy sweetness.  Something sort of zesty…perhaps orange rind…a little more tart than the fruit itself.  This is tempered by a bit of vanilla and smoke.  A swish over the palate brings that sweetness right up front and compliments it with some spice and malt.  You’ll find a big oak nuttiness to it, soft vanilla edges and a charred roasted marshmallow flavor.  A little peat smoke rounds out the back.  The finish is long and warming.  “The Spice Tree” is a bit heavier than the other Compass Box products I’ve tried thus far.  This is a good thing.

This whisky, like most in the Compass Box line, sports such a unique profile that it is quite difficult to predict the extent of its appeal, as it is somewhat challenging to draw parallels to other whiskies.  If the opportunity presents itself, do try, and let me know what you think.

Though “The Spice Tree” likely won’t hit the Canadian market for several months, we were fortunate enough to sample it at a recent tasting hosted by Compass Box’s John Glaser.  I fear the price point on this one will put it out of reach for many (just a speculation), but I personally will anxiously be awaiting word on a Canadian release date.

Nice work, Compass Box.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Pat at www.standstillphotography.ca

Port Ellen 1979 (OMC) Cask # 3081 Review

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Port Ellen 1979 (OMC) Cask # 3081

50% abv

Score:  83/100

 

Hm.  What to make of this one.

First things first…I want to know who the hell thought it was a good idea to put Port Ellen in a rum cask.  Seriously.  One of my favorite distilleries (albeit no longer with us) meets one of my least favorites spirits.  As a relative scotch purist, this is one of the most overt blasphemies and bastardizations of a damn near sainted malt I have ever encountered.

Thankfully the rum notes that dominate the nose are nearly invisible across the palate.  (Remember…as we’ve said before…the nose picks up much more than the taste buds ever will).  So, the question is…does the odd nose profile, courtesy of the rum influence, manage to kill this whisky?  Fortunately…no.  I think though, it may have been a battle to the death, with the Islay contender eking a victory out at heavy cost to personal well-being.

What this Old Malt Cask offering gives us is a nose full of wet rubber bands and glue.  Characteristics I find in most aged rums I’ve tried.  The slightly uncorfortable icing on this sweet desert is a fishy and oily tinged layer of briny Islay familiarity.  The smoke and peat has mellowed gracefully by this age, but the fruits that would normally start to assert themselves are being held back by the other, odder notes.  To be honest, this borders on unpleasant, but there are some pleasant notes that work as a saving grace.

As mentioned a couple paragraphs back, the palate is surprisingly bereft of this synthetic olfactory experience.  Here we can see the Port Ellen we love.  It is tarry and rubbery.  Salted cooked greens and lemon pepper at the fore.  A lovely lingering affair that shows little to non of the rum influence.

The maltmonster hooked me up with this one (though he hates these mentions…there is a reason here).  Being as averse to the cane juice as I am, he actually apologized for passing this over.  Though half in jest, I couldn’t help but think he feels as I do.  Keep that sugary distillate away from the nectar of Islay.

Interestingly enough…a while back I tasted a rum that had been matured (or at least finished) in a former Laphroaig cask.  The results were an abomination.  Here we see the effects of reversing the process, and maturing a whisky in a rum cask.  While not an offence to the senses as the rum was, this is not quite the success that may have been hoped for.  Neat to note that both developed a somewhat artificial note to them.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Pat

Port Charlotte PC6 Review

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Port Charlotte PC6

61.6% abv

Score:  93/100

Bruichladdich’s rebirth under the guiding hands of Jim McEwan has been the thing of whisky legend.  This renaissance will be looked back on in years to come as a thing of magnificence.  The old Bruichladdich distillery, originally founded in 1881 and oft moth-balled, was reopened under the watchful gaze of Murray McDavid in 2000.  After a lengthy career at neighboring Bowmore, Jim McEwan was hired on as Master Distiller, and has taken this distillery to new heights.

Port Charlotte PC6 is a heavily-peated whisky at 40ppm (most reliable number I have read), though it seems even bigger.  At one of our unofficial ‘tastings’, three Bruichladdich bottles were lined up in a vertical tasting.  These three were PC6, Brunello Cask and the second edition of Octomore.  The Brunello, though a respectable 49%, couldn’t hold a candle to the other two, of course.  Though the Octomore is the world’s most heavily-peated whisky at 140ppm, the PC6 was not overwhelmed at all.  Impressive in and of itself.

PC6 is another of Bruichladdich’s young gems.  Matured in American bourbon and French Madeira casks it has been bottled at a mere 6 years old.  As I have mentioned before, I believe the big peats benefit from younger bottling.  The peat is still raw and edgy and has not had time to mellow in the cask.  Those of us who like to punish our tastebuds (why not?  We’re already kicking the hell out of our livers) with huge flavors should love this.

On top of the bog influence, I must note that this is an absolute monster at 61.1%.  You will be more than safe adding water if that is your preference.  I would suggest, as with all whiskies, pour a glass and let it rest.  This one needs time to open up.  The delivery is well worth it.

Wave after wave of peat and smoke assail the senses.  Surprisingly, these are equally met with that typical Bruichladdich buttery character.  Rich and caramel sweet married to a huge blast of Islay magic.  This is mind-blowingly unique and wonderful.  Salty and medicinal, it has that tangy citric note that accompanies most of the peated whiskies as well.  There is a deep dark éclair flavor to it.  Also hints of bacon and maple.

A whisky this massive can be nothing less than a monster in the mouth as well.  It ladles out all of the notes above, with emphasis on butterscotch, citrus and smoke, in a thick mouth coating heat.  The burn is welcomed with open arms, and the finish is a smoldering hug that never lets go.  You will be tasting this for hours.

I can not wait to sample the PC7 and PC8 now.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Ardbeg Uigeadail Review

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Ardbeg UigeadailMar102012 070

54.2% abv

Score:  92.5/100

 

Can you hear the distant rumblings?  Imagine the sky turning the color of bruises and black eyes?

This…this is the fearsome dark storm of Islay.  Its enormity is almost intimidating.  Its might and majesty so beyond the scope we’re used to seeing in such a young and core range bottling.  This is like standing on the shores of Islay while the skies tear open above.  Like being lambasted by gusts of rain and hurricane winds.  And also like feeling grateful simply for having stood so close to the vortex and lived to tell.  This is nature’s fiercest, distilled and decanted.  This is one of the most blindingly original whiskies I have ever tried.

At once sweet, salty and smoky.  A deep sherry influence, while not overburdening, is held in check by dense layers of smoke.  There are notes of chocolate and warm leather carried, no doubt, by the sherried casks.  Tendrils of salted meat and roasting…well…just roasting something.

The smoke, brine and seasoned meat carry to the palate as well, here gaining a sharp little prickle from a thread of anise.  The chariot that delivers this complex amalgamation of all that is Islay (and so much more) is the perfect vehicle at a respectable 54.2% (When will all of the others learn?).

This is a sublimely heavy and brooding dram.  A ‘noir’ whisky, if ever one was made.  Deeper and darker than a Lynch movie, this is a whisky for the most introspective and dark-hearted to mull over in the most forbidding depths of the darkest lounge.

There is simply no doubt about it…this is one of the best whiskies I’ve yet to find.  Spectacular.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist (2008) Review

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Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist (2008)019

46% abv

Score:  93/100

 

Airigh Nam Beist, the ‘shelter of the beast’. Named for a legend that suggests something primeval and threatening lies in wait in this dark place (Loch Airigh) high above Ardbeg. This is a whisky that, while still 100% Ardbeg, is miles away from any of the other core expressions. Its delicate creamy complexity has made it the subject of adoration for many. This is closer to the ‘17’ (sadly gone now), though with a wee bit more heft in ABV.

Typical of this distillery’s philosophy, we’re given a whisky in its natural and beautiful naked state. Un-chill-filtered and bottled at a respectable 46% (though I ache inside to think what this could have been if left at cask strength). I suppose however, stocks would have been even more limited in such a case. Sigh.

The Airigh Nam Beist is a delicate and complex Ardbeg. Soft and creamy and rich in fruit. Grapefruit…pear…a touch of orange…keylime pie and firm fresh lemon. Smoke and creamy vanilla dance perfectly in step. A sprinkling of salt and maybe the finest dusting of dill. A drop or two of sherry as well. Restrained for an Ardbeg though of course peat and smoke, no matter how subtly woven throughout, are omnipresent.

Creamy, malty delivery. Smoke and toasted marshmallow. Unassuming brine and the barest hint of chocolate.

Three mentions of the word ‘creamy’ in one review…and an Ardbeg at that…what gives? Utterly true and completely at odds with what logic tells me to expect on this one. A perfect analogy I read (can’t remember where, and certainly can’t take credit) was eating ice cream on the beach. Exactly so!

Sadly, one more for the vaults. This is the latest Ardbeg expression to have its jersey hoisted to the rafters in retirement when it was succeeded (though not replaced) by the Corryvreckan. Though I realize stocks only stretch so far, the irrational sentimentalist in me mourns the loss of this one. The cautions were given early on to stock up, and I, like many others, neglected to heed the word. For the last two years I’ve been on the hunt. Fortunately a couple have fallen into my eager palms (but, man…I’ve paid dearly).

 

A couple of important notes:

First…this is the only Ardbeg expression to boast an age statement of greater than ten years in the recent range.

And second…distilled in 1990, and bottled from 2006 through 2008, you may run into 16, 17 or 18 year old vintages.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Ardbeg Blasda Review

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Ardbeg Blasda056

40% abv

Score:  88/100

 

It’s hard to imagine that anything made by Ardbeg could be considered an underdog.  Interestingly enough however, that is precisely the case with Blasda.  Aggressively marketed as an unpeated Ardbeg (in hopes of broadening the appeal of Islay’s smokiest malt, I imagine), Blasda is Gaelic for ‘sweet and delicious’, so they say.   Okay…can’t disagree so far.  And what do I say?  Well…I think launching a whisky like this took balls (with all due respect Ms. Barrie, I use this term metaphorically).  Legions of adoring peatheads look to Ardbeg as the pinnacle of Islay malts, and rightfully so.  The distillery rarely missteps.

So what happens when a distillery lauded for its bruising heavyweights (often at cask-strength, rarely below 46% abv and never chill-filtered) elects to release a 40%’er?  And…uh…chill-filtered to boot?

Well…backlash.  Lots of it.  Derogatory names such as ‘Ardbeg Light’ were tossed around in the forums and unfair comparisons were made against its elder siblings.  Of course when held up against the others in the core range this one comes up a little short in some of the categories you’d expect an Ardbeg to dominate.  However…stop and listen please…however…this is a damn good whisky.  Make no mistake about it.

The nose…

Unpeated Ardbeg, huh?  Not likely.  Lighter peating…sure…that I’ll buy.  Apparently this is still peated to about 8ppm (higher than Bunna and some ‘Laddie).  First thing to hit the beak is a waft of peat and smoke.  Fairly typical of an Islay dram.  This is much more like a spritely young Caol Ila though, than an Ardbeg.  The citrus here is more lime than lemon.  Keylime pie…crust and all.  This ‘lime-iness’ brings a little extra tartness and some rich green sweet notes.  It is salty (of course) and its youthful ebullience carries a gentle prickle amid creamy waves.  Neat.  Refreshing.

Touches of oak sally forth on the delivery.  I didn’t pick this up on the nose, but it is certainly a prevalent characteristic on the palate.  In logical succession the oak brings some mild vanillins.  Ebbing notes are soft fruit and wood.  The finish is short, but not abrupt.  Pleasant and charming.

I really like this whisky.

Now…I refuse to keep mum on this one…

Dear Ardbeg,

As you know (or should by now) I am adoring fan.  I count myself among the legions hopelessly devoted to you and yours.  As such I feel I am in a position to say this (cause we only hurt the ones we love)…

I will accept an Ardbeg at 40%.  I will also accept an Ardbeg which has been (shudder) chill-filtered.  I will further accept that I have to pay handsomely for that green bottle I so adore.

…but…

I do NOT accept that the price point of a whisky such as this has to be as high as it is.  Sadly I admit…it said Ardbeg on the bottle and I had to have it.

In the future please take this to heart.

Yours forever…

One last thing…regarding that ‘underdog status…never forget…

“Little Davids strike hard and deep.”

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Compass Box Peat Monster Review

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46% abv

Score:  90/100

 

Hmmm.  Wow.  Something seems a little odd here.  I first had a go at Compass Box’s The Peat Monster last year at an event hosted by John Glaser (the man behind the curtain).  I remember thinking that this was a delicious dram, if somewhat…misleading.  I expected a solid kick in the stuff with this one, a la Octomore or Supernova.  C’mon…with a name like ‘The Peat Monster’, wouldn’t you expect the same?

From what I can gather (and I hope to clarify in the near future…hang tight for updates), this was originally composed primarily of Caol Ila and Ardmore.  This would explain my initial reaction.  HOWEVER…scuttlebutt says, there is now Laphroaig in the mix.  Aha…it all comes clear.  Indeed this is much beefier than I recall (and my old notes attest).  The nose is all Caol Ila.  The palate is all Laphroaig.  Simply astounding.

Basically…the delicate intensity that so characterizes and defines Caol Ila is given a souped up engine under the hood.  Peat, smoke and brine meet citrus zest, ash and pepper.  Lovely.  This gets a hefty boost across the tastebuds if you can imagine the aforesaid complimented by that raw Laphroaig earthiness.  Sharp apple skins at the tale end of the finish.

Now this is certainly deserving of the title Peat Monster.  A very sexy whisky.

For those unfamiliar with John Glaser’s Compass Box enterprise, do yourself a favor…nab a bottle of this, The Spice Tree, Hedonism or Asyla.  The more time I spend with this lineup, the more I dig ‘em.  Mr. Glaser is an alchemist.  His approach is unique and uncompromising.  I like that.   I can hardly wait to see what else he has up his sleeve.

Non-chill-filtered, non-colored and 46% abv.  Solid.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Pat at www.standstillphotography.ca

Glenmorangie Original Review

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Glenmorangie Original

40% abv

Score:  87/100

 

Glenmorangie is a Highland distillery situated in Tain.  For some interesting reading, do some research on the 16 men of Tain.  I can’t do all of your homework here, so go have some fun.  Think Highlander.  Anyway…the distillery boasts the tallest stills in Scotland.  If you are not too familiar with stills (either having read the articles here on Liquorature or elsewhere), let me explain what this means.  As the spirit condenses in the stills it travels up and out the lyne arm.  The extra height in Glenmorangie’s stills ensures that much of the distillate runs back down before exiting the lyne arm.  This is known as reflux, and means that said spirit will benefit from longer distillation, giving us a more pure spirit.

Generally this means that the end product will be lighter and smoother.  This is most certainly the case with Glenmorangie.

Historically this whisky has often been considered as an entry level malt.  Though I understand why it is a great gateway, the negative connotations associated with this are unfair and unwarranted.  The Glenmorangie Original is my ’house’ bottle at the moment.  One I find myself going back to often, and consequently have just opened my second bottle of the year.

This is truly an easy drinking whisky.  It is a beautifully balanced dram that is complimentary to any situation and any drinker.  Great for breaking in the novice or for those with a somewhat more refined palate.  I find I most enjoy this early in the evening or before dinner.  There is no specific note that leaps out as a dominant flavor, but hints of fruit, oak and mild spice vie for the senses, both nose and taste.  It is creamy and syrupy across the tongue, with a thin to medium body.  It is full of sweetness and warmth which make up for any lack of density.

There is a subtleness here that belies the depth of this whisky.  Spend some time with it.  I find dissection of this one to be a little difficult to be honest.  Enjoy it as the sum of its parts.  We don’t always need to know how the motor works to enjoy the ride.

My harshest criticism would be that the finish here doesn’t linger as long as I would hope for, but I suppose that means one need sip a little more frequently .  There is a bit of heat that comes along towards the latter part of development, but when it fades…it’s gone.

I should note that this is the 10 y.o.  It has since been re-branded as ‘Original’.

 

A final note from the reviewer:

Please, folks…if you take anything form this site, these whisky reviews or any of my thoughts or opinions here…let it be this:

Let your nose and palate guide you.  Do not be fooled by packaging, marketing, age, abv, or anything other than what your senses tell you.

I have conceded many time that I have a preference for cask strength whiskies which are neither colored nor chill-filtered.  These are personal preferences, but in no way stop me from enjoying a great whisky that doesn’t fit this profile.

There are countless whiskies on the market that fit into the branded mold.  They are bottled around 40-43%, tend to have E150a coloring added, and are chill-filtered to ensure clarity and consistency.  This allows for simplicity in marketing and a level of consistency otherwise lacking.

Do not EVER discount these whiskies without trying them.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Pat at www.standstillphotography.ca

Caol Ila 12 y.o. Review

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Caol Ila 12 y.o.

Caol Ila 12 y.o.

43% abv

Score:  88/100

 

This whisky is a showstopper.  It has truly left me struggling for a proper review.  In some senses it is a typical Islay whisky…big, bold, peaty and full of that big seaside salt and brine we’re used to.  In other ways it is much different.  It comes across almost like a well-behaved, slightly mellowed, older brother to the more obnoxious big three Islay siblings (Ardbeg, Lagavulin, Laphroaig).

The more I look into blended whiskies, attend tastings and read reviews, the more I’m noticing the Caol Ila name cropping up.  It seems to be a blender’s staple in providing a little peat to many bottlings.  Caol Ila is apparently the single largest distillery on Islay, and with its whiskies having a certain softness lacking in some of the other big peats, it is simple logic as to why it would be a blender’s choice.  …Of course the absolute top notch quality may have something to do with that as well, no?

On the nose…certainly peat…smoke…sea side salt and freshness…some fruit…a little spice.  It reminds me of campfires by the water’s edge.  Like most ‘peatheads’, I find myself sticking my nose in the glass between sips.  It is actually quite a light and fresh smell.

The arrival doesn’t overpower with smoke.  Instead it envelops you and then develops into a nice marriage of flavors.  The smokiness is almost like a hazy curtain, slightly masking the other notes.  Occasionally you’ll be able to pick out something through it, such as hints of grass or sea salt.  It also reminds me of a sauvignon blanc, as it has all of the same light herbal, grassy notes and refreshing character.  The finish is long and leaves you with a bit of oak and peat as final flavors.

This 12 y.o. has a rather nice mouthfeel.  A little thin for my liking  perhaps, but pleasant nonetheless.  Our favorite liquor store (Willow Park) has the cask strength version available as well for an additional $30 or so.  I will certainly try that, as I anticipate a little more viscosity and that wonderful ‘coat-your-mouth’ feel.  I also imagine (or hope) it will have a bit more of that raw edge often found in the higher abv whiskies, which is a characteristic I also look for.

In trying to not re-invent the wheel here, I will close with the words of our good friend, and all ‘round whisky aficionado, Ralfy, who described it as having a “delicate intensity”.  I couldn’t have possibly said it better.

Absolutely stunning.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Image:  Pat at www.standstillphotography.ca

Changing The Face Of All Things Whisky

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Greetings, friends! 

Just a quick note.

ATW will be going through a bit of a facelift in the coming weeks.  We (hopefully) learn from our mistakes, and boy, did I make a few in the setup of this site.  Time to right the ship a bit.

Chances are good there will be a bit of trial and error along the way, so patience is appreciated.  Any comments are not only welcome, but sincerely hoped for.  This site serves two purposes.  1)  To allow me an outlet for some of my whisky nerdery, and 2)  To share what knowledge I (and some great friends) have.  In effect…this site ain’t just for me.  If there’s something you’d like to see on ATW…drop a line.

Thanks, all.