Author Archives: antihero7

Highland Park 15 y.o. Review

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Highland Park 15 y.o.

43% abv

Score:  86.5/100

 

This was a pleasant surprise.  I remember being somewhat less than enthused with Highland Park’s 15 year old expression.  Not that I didn’t like it, but simply that it seemed a little lackluster in an otherwise brilliant portfolio.  To sate my curiosity, and alleviate a gnawing concern that I wasn’t giving this one its due, I nabbed a bottle a few months back and finally got around to popping the cork.

I’ll be honest here and say that I still find this the least spectacular of the range, but it sparkles in ways I don’t remember from initial impressions.  It is a mellowed version of the 12 year old, but I still find I prefer the youthful bite and malty edge of that expression to this.  Maybe that’s just me.

All personal preference aside, this is simply another solid outing from one of the best operational distilleries out there.

As mentioned, the maltiness of the 12 year old has all but disappeared by this age.  Three more years in oak have dulled that throb down to a slow heartbeat.  So what remains of the Highland Park character when you tumble the edges off?  Peat and smoke?  Check.  Honey?  Check.  Meadow flower/heather?  Check.  These three always seem to form the backbone of any HP I’ve tasted (excepting that odd…truly odd…Hudson’s Bay, bottled by the fine folk at ‘Laddich), and while they by no means define Highland Park they do sort of exemplify the distillery’s character.

I also picked up a touch of dill, some toffee (or light caramel) and a hint of chocolate.  Finally, and quite interestingly, hay and horse blanket.  Nifty.

All told…not a bad ride.  Personally though…I’d get off one stop sooner (12 year) or take this train to any of the more distant stops (18, 25, 30, 40 year).

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Ardbeg Supernova SN2010 Review

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Ardbeg Supernova SN2010035

60.1% abv

Score:  91/100

 

I know more than a few of you have been waiting for this review.  Sorry to keep you waiting, buoys and gulls.  This simply is not a whisky that can be reviewed after a single sitting.  Now…many moons later…I have cowered in the shadow of this beast on more than one occasion and feel a little more comfortable sharing my thoughts.

Conversations regarding the Supernova nearly always revolve around either the novel enormity of this phenolic explosion or the ongoing phenol war between this and Bruichladdich’s Octomore.  Either way, it is a sad discredit to the inherent quality of this young and beastly Ardbeg.

A few months back my wife and I celebrated our six year anniversary.  A great evening of getting tattooed, having dinner together and heading out of town for a night away was capped by curling up in front of the Lost with drinks in hand.  Hers…fermented grapes.  Mine…fermented barley.  Though I don’t remember hers…I’m pretty certain she’ll never forget mine.  It literally made the hair on her arms stand up and brought a tear to her eye.  This was, of course, the SN2010.

So what is it that constitutes this dram which wields such tremendous fury?

Nose:

The phenols at this level are absolutely blinding.  This is a young Ardbeg with the volume cranked up to 11.  We peat lovers have become somewhat jaded in recent years with a spate of enormously peated whiskies, but when you consciously step back and consider the contents of the green bottle in hand…well…it is hard not be bowled over.  This is almost an abomination in the whisky world through its sheer enormity.  Its sublime flavors are likely to be lost on the novice.  Heed this…take your time with the SN2010.  It will pay off.

As many of you know by now, I like to visualize these things.  Humor me if you will.  Ocean waves whipped to a frothy fury; savage and unstoppable winds tearing long coastal grass from its roots and blasting the remnants of peat embers hither and yon.  …And no shelter to be seen.

It is sharp and jagged, developing from throbbing waves to a full blown tsunami within minutes of pouring.  The peat and smoke are forefront (what else would you expect?), but fresh cracked pepper and chocolate are clear.  Equal parts dirt and grass…salt and hard lemon…and tar.  Typically Islay.  Not a lot new, but here in brilliant proportion and numbing strength.

Palate:

A mouthful of smoke and pepper.  Oily and tar-like.  Extremely salty anise and brine.  Finally there are hints of wood.  Only hints, mind.  A nifty bitterness creeps in with the oak as well.  This absolutely has to be the final drink of any evening.  You simply won’t be able to taste anything after annihilating your tastebuds with the Supernova.

I hate to blast the critics here, but anyone saying that this is simply hype and not a good whisky…well…best spend a little more time with this, folks.  Y’may not like it…but you are WRONG if you say it is not a good dram.  There are better Ardbegs out there, but that is neither here nor there and makes this one no less relevant.

I can’t be certain (at least until I kick it and have to check in myself), but I believe this peaty bastard is actually used for stoking the fires of hell.

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Yamazaki 18 y.o. Review

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Yamazaki 18 y.o.barry's place pics 008

43% abv

Score:  92.5/100

 

Damn, what a nose.  Deep and chocolaty.  Buckets of spice.  Sherry up front with the accompanying choir of raisin, deep woods and rum-like fruitcake notes.  There is the slightest hint of sulfur, which contrary to what I would expect, by no means even comes close to tarnishing this one.  Finally…soft waves of licorice and black cherry.  This is magic.

Engaging the tastebuds reveals heavy sherry and gorgeous deep ruby fruit.  Long and rich in delivery and development.  Picking up a little Kirsch in there too.

Oh, man.  I’m really not sure what to say.  It feels like some sort of transgression to share anything about this malt.  So deep and swirling in mystery is it.

This is a drink for lounging in dark jazz bars…for French burlesque music…for untold flings in foreign lands…for loosening your tie and lighting a cigar…for discussing Tom Waits…or reading ‘The Maltese Falcon’.

Exotic and arousing.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Glenfiddich 18 y.o. Review

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Glenfiddich 18 y.o.

43% abv

Score:  87/100

 

Safe as safe can be.  If you’re a malt enthusiast…you’ll probably want to steer clear.  Perhaps finding this a little…run of the mill.  Or perhaps you’re of the sort that is mature enough in your stylings to simply appreciate a really well-made whisky when you try one.  This is not bells and whistles, flash and pomp, fireworks and sex scenes.  Glenfiddich is quite simple really.  A whisky whose craft will pass into lore as the absolute template on how to not go wrong.

The only problem for this guy?  It’s life’s beautiful mistakes that give this world the character and verve that makes me want to rise every morning.  Take away those bumps in the highway and I’m liable to fall asleep at the wheel.

As a rule…keep your Glensafe.  Nine times out of ten I’ll opt for a Springbank.

Though this may sound disparaging, it’s not particularly meant so (as I hope the score attests).  Just thought you and I should be on the same page going forward.

The nose is rich in heather and gooey honey.  Big ol’ baskets of fruit and armfuls of flowers.  Creamy vanilla ice cream, drizzled in creme caramel.  Red apple.  Berries in cream.  Pancakes and syrup.  Though the oak is becoming slightly more pronounced by this milestone, I still don’t think I would peg this at a full 18 years.  Young and vibrant.

The delivery is just as decisively competent as the nose.  Smooth and unchallengingly sweet.  Creamy vanillins dance with dried fruit and crunchy apple.  Lovely really.  Almost refreshing.

How do you fault a whisky of this quality and consistency?  Simple.  You call it boring.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Bruichladdich Blacker Still Review

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Bruichladdich Blacker Still

50.7% abv

Score:  87/100

 

Normally a sulfur note this prevalent would leave me searching for a plant or some other discreet location to dump my drink.  However…and this is a big however…there is something that works here.  Somewhat of a ‘succeeds in spite of itself’ scenario.

Those in fear of bold sherry…kindly take leave.  This is monstrous.  20 years old and I imagine more than a couple of those were spent sucking up grape residue from former sherry wood.

So…the malt.

Sulfur.  Heavy and brooding.  Deeply oiled leather.  Beef in burnt teriyaki sauce (over-caramelized sugars…still carrying some salts).  Dates or figs or what have you.  Cherries in dark chocolate.  Think meaty and spicy.  Also think: “when baking your fruitcake…be sure to turn the oven off in time”.

Sulfur, meatiness and burnt notes carry through to the palate.  The sherry is as dense as a Scottish rain cloud.  Heavy toasted sugars.

I realize that some of the afore-said may not give the most favorable impression, but before forming any preconceptions, re-read the ‘however’ that introduces this review.

One final caveat:

Give this whisky a good 15-20 minutes in the glass before devoting time.  It needs to open up.  I promise you this breathing period will allow a little diffusion of the sulfur flaw, and greatly benefit your enjoyment.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Bruichladdich Golder Still Review

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Bruichladdich Golder Still

51.0% abv

Score:  87/100

 

The oldest in the ‘Still’ series at 23 years, Golder Still is somewhat of a puzzler.  Reaping the benefit of a special period of final maturation in smaller square casks (I know…what?), one would logically expect a whisky older than its years.  Not exactly the case here.  Having said that, what we do end up with is a damn fine malt.  Spectacular?  Never.  Smooth, sweet and satisfying though.  No two ways about it.

Sweet and fruity, like sugar cookies or raw pastry dough.  Notes of nice ol’ bourbon.  Apple turnover and drops of vanilla.  Very mild…entirely pleasant.

The palate…sadly, can’t hold a candle to the nose.  I don’t mean to suggest it is bad, quite the contrary actually, but there’s a wee bit of a disconnect here.  A slight tartness is met with a rather lively oak that should have been tempered by 23 years.  I can only conclude this is the influence of the final ‘square cask’ maturation.  The florals develop midway through…kind of a pleasant surprise…and leave a light and fresh linger.  Quite nice.

This one didn’t have me at hello, but it did make me want to hang around to get to know ‘er.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Amrut Two Continents Review

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Amrut Two Continents

50% abv

Score:  90.5/100

 

Amrut has set the bar so ridiculously high already that I walk into new expressions with unfairly elevated expectations.  It’s a credit to the distillery that their weakest offerings (in my opinion anyway) are still head and shoulders above many other distillery’s best.

Before taking one more step forward, let me clarify.  This is a great whisky.  It is not a weak offering.  I only suggest it may not be as stellar as the Intermediate Sherry, Portonova or Fusion.  If you’ve tried any of those expressions you’ll likely have an understanding as to what caliber we are speaking to.

Two Continents is a bit of a hybrid.  Periods of maturation in both Indian and European climes have given this malt its moniker, but is this a novelty or would the same effect have been achieved if the spirit was simply aged and bottled near the Himalaya?  Who knows.  I suppose we wouldn’t have had such a cool name (and consequently) concept to natter on about.

The whisky itself, regardless, is Amrut through and through.  Bold ribbons of orange zest and shaved milk chocolate.  A hefty shaking of exotic spices.  This has become almost a distillery profile.  Yeasty bread dough.  Perhaps the faintest whiff of peat in there.  Rich vanilla ice cream.  Lingering notes of fresh baking and home-made apple pie.

One thing I want to note here.  People tend to look for rules or generalizations in order to give some structure to their lives and make organizing thoughts easier.  This applies to whisky as well.  Islay whiskies are smoky.  Older is better.  Speysiders are fruity.  Amrut is a prime example of how misleading a generalization can be.  These spectacular malts are mere infants compared to their Scottish cousins.  The temperate Indian climate is a maturation accelerant.  What the distillery is able to turn out is product likely still not even 5 years old, which bears all the hallmarks of a malt 3 or 4 times its age.  Never let a generalization sway your opinion before your senses have had an opportunity to make up their own minds.

Nearly textbook malt from this Indian superstar.  While not my favorite Amrut, still full of sparkle and shine.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Caol Ila 25 y.o. Review

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Caol Ila 25 y.o.

58.4% abv

Score:  91/100

 

A nose to melt your heart and buckle your knees.  A palate to pucker your face and wait…what?  This is like falling asleep in the comfort of your own bed and waking up in a scuzzy brothel.  Both great, but for different reasons.  😉

I simply can’t wrap my thoughts around the unnerving disconnect between nose and palate on this one.  A truly great olfactory experience leads you to a slightly bitter and hoppy ride on the palate.  IPA meets malt whisky.  F*ck me, I’m stumped.

Ok…if you’re as unseated as I was, let me clarify.  This is a really good dram.  Well…quite good anyway.  Peat ages well.  Men bulge and women sag, but peat often mellows with grace.  One need look no further than the adoration heaped in buckets on our beloved Port Ellen (may she rest in peace).  The biting aggression and astringent notes of iodine and tar don’t necessarily shove off, but they do know when to back up a bit and allow some of the fruits to come forth again.

A couple dozen miles from the afore-mentioned Port Ellen we find Caol Ila; one of many thoroughbreds in the stables of Drinkmonster, Diageo.   In terms of pure volume, if not the number of expressions it produces, Caol Ila is Islay’s most prolific distillery.  Even so, official bottlings of Caol Ila with an age statement of anything beyond a dozen years are tough to find in these parts.

When the opportunity arose to cobble together a few OBs* of Caol Ila and assemble the troops for a range tasting, I was nearly salivating at the opportunity to taste this vintage.  Approaching a whisky with expectations this high is almost never a good idea.

The nose is smooth chocolate and vanilla, sweet melons and aged wood.  A bit of cherry, some mild pepper and very distant smoke.  In hindsight, I’m almost willing to go up a point or two based on the nose alone.  I’m a bit of a slow-go’er with whisky (well…until the alcohol sinks its teeth in and winds the gears a little tighter), so the nosing process alone can take quite some time before first sips.  This is a whisky that absolutely demands this dedicated time.

Then we get to the juice splashing across the tastebuds.  Hmm…tart and hoppy.  Not dissimilar to some of the milder India Pale Ales I’ve tried.  This is compounded by the absolutely teeth-smashing arrival (almost 60% at 25 years?!  Bloody hell!).  Skunky and weedy notes are very, very prevalent.  It is highly possible this was magnified by being tasted just behind the rather stunning 18 year old, in all it’s understated glory, but I rather think it is simply the nature of the beast.

Though far from divine, still an excellent malt.

* OB: Original Bottling

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Pat

Alberta Premium 30 y.o. Review

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Alberta Premium 30 y.o.

40% abv

Score:  93/100

 

I did an about face on this one.  Not that I didn’t initially like it,quite the contrary actually, but I was quite certain that the earlier limited release of the 25 year old was better.  Hmmm…not so sure about that one now.  As brilliant as the 25 was, I think this actually pips it.

Rumour has it that in the days following the release of the 25, the remaining old stock was recasked and left to mellow for a few more seasons.  I questioned the decision to shift mature spirit from its familiar ol’ home into casks that would likely be a lot more active.  Would this lead to too much young oak influence?

Nup.  Not a worry.  The result was quite the opposite really.  It was the fruits that were reinvigorated, like a date with a defibrillator.  What we end up with is a little more bottled magic from Alberta Distillers.

Word of the 30 year old’s pending release came to us early on when a few of The Collective were granted the opportunity to spend a few hours at the distillery.  We were asked to keep hush hush, and of course had to respect that.  Tough one though.  Following on the heels of the stellar 25, expectations were high.  Zipping the lip was a formidable obligation.

The wait was well worth it however.  Here we have the oldest 100% rye whisky I know of, and what a treat it is.

The nose manages to impress as both older and younger than the 25.  How is that possible?  Cherry and orange, maybe a whiff of ruby grapefruit are second only to the pine-fresh woodiness.  Familiar smells of a dunnage warehouse.  There are faint char notes, almost as in a recharred cask.  Pleasant…adding a degree of sophistication and hinting at the depth here.  The characteristic spice notes found in rye are warm and familiar.  Vanilla pod and clove right up front and something quite unique here as well:  there is a pancake syrup (treacle for my friends o’erseas) we buy occasionally that is cinnamon flavored.  The mix of butter, cinnamon and maple syrup is niftily captured here.  Great nose.

The palate…mature, smoky, waxy and oaky.  In essence…tasting of all those charming subtleties that only develop through the patience of letting a cask mellow in the warehouse.  A smidge of tart citrus.  And again…back to the rich cloves.  The fade is oak and grapefruit.

Man, this is a great distillery.  I only wish they had the confidence to try a little experimentation.  With a spirit this good, I can only imagine the possibilities, and dare to dream of the heights they could reach.  Imagine…this in a refill sherry butt?  At cask strength?

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Alberta Premium 25 y.o. Review

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Alberta Premium 25 y.o.

40% abv

Score:  92.5

 

There’s a hometown pride goin’ on here right now. I’ve been won over and have fallen in love again. Sort of a backdoor romance, you could say. The good news though…is that my wife knows about it.

Alberta Premium is produced right here in Calgary, and is doubtless the finest Canadian Whisky I have ever tried. Their no age statement flagship expression is a mindblowingly sexy dram, showing maturity well beyond its years (the number of which, of course, a gentlemen would never mention). So the question that logically follows is ‘how does this stack up after a few more years in wood’?

Well…through a newly-forged (though hopefully long-enduring) friendship, I was gifted a bottle of this sadly long-gone whisky. I can, without any hesitation, state on record that 25 years in oak takes this from a sterling rye whisky to something utterly beyond compare.

The nose here has all of the same notes that makes the standard bottling exceptional, but…try this…imagine a lone violin playing in a moonlit amphitheater. Now imagine that lone violin is joined by multitudes more playing the same note in ascending octaves of the most heavenly harmony until your eardrums burst in pure ecstasy. That good? Absolutely. Gorgeous sweet rye…creamy vanilla and hazy light fruits…silky smooth chocolate. At 25 years I should be worried about oak influence. Alas…nada. The woods here are absolutely distant and tastefully restrained.

The palate is alive and vibrant with all the afore-mentioned depth and creamy toffee notes to boot. The arrival is delicate and unpretentious, but develops smoothly into an unbelievably elegant and sensual mouthful. There are distant (very distant) echoes of bourbon in there somewhere as well…though they sort of dance around the tongue a little. The finish is much lengthier than the staple expression, and man…are those lingering flavors lovely. I concur with the opinion that leaving the oils in (ie. no chill-filtration) would have allowed these beautiful flavors to soar even higher. As it is though…dear gawd…my wife should be jealous.

Hard to find flaws here.  A well-deserved mark.

One final note…I mentioned in my review of the standard bottle that I was hoping to try this 25 year old. Well…you fine folk made it happen, So I will tempt fate once more by begging that anyone who finds this in the shops either nabs me a bottle (at my expense of course) or tells me where to find it. I’ll be sure to share a dram.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt