Author Archives: antihero7

A Macallan Duo

It’s always with a bit of trepidation we approach these Macallans. Like many of you, I’ve had oodles of great old Macallans through the years and still hope for some sort of ‘spiritual renaissance’. The clock keeps ticking, however, and those beautiful old sherry casks seem to be a thing of memory and rue at this point. I’m not sure what that situation looks like from the inner circle at Mac HQ, but from an outside point-of-view, it hasn’t really seemed to knock the lustre off Macallan’s luxury status. They’re a brand more than a whisky these days anyway, aye? And if we’re being entirely honest, it’s hard not to feel like they’re coasting on a reputation more than a product. Anyway… Macallan:

Macallan Sherry Oak 12 yo
2022
43% abv
Nose: No doubting the lineage here; super goopy; the lovechild of a chocolate menage a trois between Milk Duds, Whoppers, and Cherry Cordials; Licorice All Sorts; Lamp oil; some sort of spiced rum raisin dessert; a whiff of sour milk. Palate: Chocolate and jam; raisins in trifle; Sugar Crisp meets Coffee Crisp; weighty Macallan stylings played through a child’s stereo. Finish: A lingering mingling of cinnamon; vanilla; cherry cough syrup; copper; dandelion greens in fudge. Thoughts: Quite good; can’t lie. 85/100

Macallan Sherry Oak 18 yo
2023 Edition
43% abv
Nose: Neat, kinda a mashup of old and new school (30/70 ratio, maybe?); gingerbread; mulling spices; candied orange peel; marzipan; licorice; coriander. Palate: Sharp and modern now, with just a wee bit of that echoing old school charm; cinnamon; Cognac; a hint of rose; macarons; burnt jam; again…definitely Macallan DNA, so it’s a ‘true’ one; too much wood, though, makes it kinda top-heavy; feels very ‘wet fill’-esque. Finish: cinnamon; marzipan; orange; then the tannins sink their fangs in. Thoughts: I get the sneaking feeling that a mediocre (sub-par, even, perhaps) cask or two got stirred into the mix. I can’t help but wonder what anyone is thinking when they lay down $850ca for this one. I also don’t understand how something can seem both slathered in goopy caramel and at the same time, wafer-thin. Nae bad, nae great. 83.5/100

(CR)

Decadent Dirtiness

Decadent Drams ‘Old Style Sherrywood Malt Whisky’ Blended Malt 23 yo
‘Guaranteed 23 Years Old’ (Filled 2001 – bottled 2024)
Sherrywood
587 bottles
45.1% abv

Damn. Old school. Like… ‘one-room schoolhouse’ old school. This is cherry brandy run through a coal miner’s work shirt; a 1930s train engine mechanic’s Pall Mall extinguished in a wedge of black forest cake; a back alley Turkish coffee to wash down a fistful of black cherries and pomegranate seeds; scorched licorice root dipped in engine oil and Buckleys elixir, used to muddle mixed berries. Very cool. Very challenging. Very much my style. More of these please.

From the back of the bottle: “This Decadent Drams bottling is a single sherry butt of Blended Malt ‘2001’. As we understand it, this blended malt stock was actually ‘filled’ in 2001 using a mix of component malts, most of whish were considerably older at the time, which probably explains its rather old school, classical sherry profile.” And just to up the intrigue, this was then re-racked into an ex-Ardbeg sherry butt for about a year. That 45.1% is cask strength, by the way.

Nose: weighty; Sunrype fruit bars; coffee grounds and potting soil; jams or maybe jammy dodgers; campfire pies; flaming brand new woolen socks; tea; menth.ol; soft licorice; blueberry. Palate: chewy but dry (like ground up Oreo wafers); vaguely medicinal; dirty dulce de lecce; more Oreo wafers smeared or stuffed with jams; a slight soapy undertone; some slightly over-oxidized notes that remind of old sherries (and maybe last-gasp, dump-the-remains port wines, too). Finish: long and muddy, but the fruits remain with a dry cocoa ashy-ness. Thoughts: a heavier, more primordial style; the Ardbeg influence is really only present on the palate, I find (altogether more Ardmore-ish than Ardbeggian; one to drink late at night in a remote Scottish bothy with a rough fire smoldering away to fight off the chill; balanced… so oddly, seemingly incongruously, balanced. 89.5/100

(CR)

“Islands in the Sound, that is what we are…”

Or something along those lines anyway. Sorry, Kenny and Dolly. Anyway… let’s dig into a neat little duo from Whisky Sponge.

There was a vision here: release a single cask bottling from both beloved Hebridean islands, Islay and Jura. A bottling that was naked in spirit and cask dressing, matured entirely on its respective island, and offered at natural cask strength. In one hand, we have a Jura from the early years of Whyte & MacKay ownership, and in the other, a Bruichladdich from the early years of the distillery’s renaissance. This would have been distilled after W&M finally relinquished the dormant distillery (and existing stock) from their portfolio to Mark Reynier, Jim McEwan, and the rest of the merry pranksters (so many beautiful souls). I have to commend Sir Sponge for sourcing these casks and knowing just when to bottle them. Plucked from wood at a seemingly perfect time in both cases.

Whisky Sponge Edition No. 96 Bruichladdich 19 y.o.
2005 – 2024
1st Fill bourbon barrel
206 bottles
55.8% abv

Everything I want in a Bruichladdich. We’re finally now seeing what one of the most interesting makes in all of ScotchLand turns into when it grows into adulthood. There’s a spellbinding audacity to a distillery making such a standout spirit. I have a feeling that Bruichladdich’s day is still to come.
Says Angus: “…tastes like Leviathan wrestling and Dolphin husbandry.”
Nose: Nutty; milky; sour and butyric (as expected in such an ‘exposed’ outing); lactic baby vomit; minerally; sour orange and gentle mandarin; medical tape; chlorine/pool water; white chocolate; vanilla candle; Scottish tablet. Palate: putty and chalk and clay (and any sort of organic, malleable, minerally kinda thing you can think of); a few drops of olive oil spilled into vegetable oil; smoke; toasted croissants; pears soaked in brine; blood orange. Finish: a lot of phunky notes going on here, but the phinish is very clean and cohesive. Thoughts: unexpectedly smoky on the palate; this one polarized at a recent tasting; I was one of the small handful that adored it. Unapologetically, a 90/100

Whisky Sponge Edition No. 97 Jura 30 y.o.
1994-2024
Refill hogshead
203 bottles
46.0% abv

Thirty years in a refill hoggy; utterly brilliant to leave it alone. Thank you for that. Refill wood with deep years is the recipe for most of my favorite drams, so I concede a bit of ‘excitement bias’ coming into this Jura. There’s also the fact that there simply are not enough ‘Paterson-influence-free’ Juras out there (or Dalmores or Fettercairns, for that matter). Any opportunity to engage with an indie Jura is fun.
Says Angus: “…tastes like cosplaying as a pirate while being lured into a whirlpool by a devious Mermaid.”
Nose: Bird’s brand custard; melty brie cheese; loads of soft tangled fruit notes (candy-like); beach bare feet; salty bread dough; yeasty and fermenty, leading into…; guava; tangerine; very faint mango; Juicy Fruit gum; very fishing village-esque. Palate: incredibly soft landing; salted, spiced custard or heavy cream; purple wine gums; yellow grapefruit pith; burnt pineapple; vaguely medicinal; sourdough crust; insect repellent; olive oil. Finish: very clean and elegant; minerally and almost herbaceous, or maybe that’s just the grains and oak. Thoughts: Either way, a very vulnerable nakedness that I adore 90/100 (+/- a point)

I was going to post this one separately, but it just seemed to fit here, so…

Islay Sponge Part IV Port Charlotte 20 y.o.
20 yo (2003 – 2023)
Refill hogshead
241 bottles
56.5% abv

Undoubtedly, one of my most adored recent releases. Port Charlotte is a top tenner for me (maybe top five) in terms of profile, and I can’t even begin to tell you how excited I am for a future full of well-matured PCs. I feel that Port Charlotte is aging like the finest of wines. It’s neat to see this coming-of-age, especially when we look back at those early PC number releases (PC5, PC6, PC7, etc)
*Special thanks to a mate of mine out west who was doubly kind with this one. I’ll spare you all the story, but to my generous benefactor: suffice to say, I have a wee package of reciprocity coming together oh-so-slowly (no excuses for my delinquency).
Nose: Warm suede; the collective smells of the farmyard (windswept fields, cow sh*t, and horse stables); mandarins, peach and, tangerine, and nectarine; Spanish cedar; sour yeasty notes, leaning into butyric acids; lime; tobacco/snuff; brine and a touch of ammonia; coal smoke. Palate: orange creamsicle; cinnamon and nutmeg sprinkled over peaches and cream; a soft but weighty smoke (like a moist ‘medium’ cigar. Yeah… I said moist. Twice); lots of citrus; lots of creamy, buttery notes; oily and heavy; I feel like I just kissed someone wearing shea butter lotion. Finish: archaic and absolutely bonkers in an ‘echoes of Brora’ sort of way; loooooooong, but never long enough. Thoughts: Ruben at Whiskynotes nailed it: Brora meets old Ardbeg, but there is an unmistakable McEwan era Laddie-ness, too. Let’s say, divide those three profiles into thirds? I think that’s getting to this one. I have to echo Ruben’s sentiments: “this is a future classic.” What a bottling. Smoky tropical baby puke at the ranch? 92/100 (maybe even 93)

(CR)

The king is dead, long live the king!

Ardbeg 17 Committee Exclusive (2024)
Bottled 2023 (Released 2024)
40% abv

We screamed for years for Ardbeg to give us back the 17 instead of another cleverly concocted (and marketed) limited release*. It seems our pleas have not fallen on deaf ears or, more likely, the good people at Ardbeg were already miles ahead of us. I’d almost given up hope of seeing this ever come to fruition. Needless to say, this is a warmly welcomed return, 20 years after the original 17 was retired. In my humble opinion, anyway. Unquestionably, the best modern 40%er I’ve tried in recent memory. Well done, Ardbeg. Now, this homage was cool, but how about a 46% version?
Nose: lime margarita, or rather, mezcal-rita, but with very retrained agave notes; melon; tangerine; starfruit; starfruit; brioche; white pepper; mineral notes, slightly slate-like; potter’s clay; and a wee bit of vanilla wafer cookie doused in pool water. Palate: more tangerine; cantaloupe; shellfish; brine; salt licorice; a decent smokiness; clean malty notes; sadly, very thin. Finish: I love the way the melons linger with that ashy smokiness; a bit of sharp greens married to mint; and then those mezcal-ritas again. Thoughts: Elegant. Somewhere between the new and old schools. The old 17 meets Airigh Nam Beist meets a touch of the Lumsden era distillate. Others haven’t been quite so generous, I hear, but despite the baseline abv… 89/100

*We’ve also been clamoring for a Ten Cask Strength. Y’know… essentially ‘Renaissance Redux.’ (a not so subtle hint, hopefully – CR)

(CR)

A Few Cambus to Get Us Started

First session back in the saddle: Cambus. One of the lost grain distilleries, of course. Cambus gave up the ghost in 1993 as Diageo continued streamlining operations in a more challenging time (as regards whisky, anyway), so there are a fair few well-aged examples out there by this point. In particular, plenty of 1991s. While I haven’t confirmed that the MacBeth bottling from Elixir Distillers was a ’91, the math seems to work. And…I honestly don’t recall ever seeing a 1992, so I think we can say these four are almost certainly all ‘91s.

Grains remain a legit option for those romanced by high age statements over high price tags. There’s a sacrifice of complexity and a narrowing of the flavour spectrum, but there are some great finds out there for the discerning. Anyway, let’s get grainy. First up… a couple ex-bourbon examples:

Cooper’s Choice Cambus 1991
32 yo (1991 – 2024)
Bourbon Cask No. 79880
264 bottles
47.5% abv

Nose: lemon; Pine and sandalwood; shortbread; lemon cookies; underripe pear and green banana; cheap white table wine; canned fruit syrup; ginger; confectioners’ sugar. Palate: Sweet and fruity arrival that sharpens up a bit in the midpalate; jicama; ribbon candy; vanilla and lemon; white Freezies; tinned peach Finish: Clean. Very pleasant white bread dough flavours. The fading notes scream white Freezies at me. Thoughts: I think this one was done a bit of a disservice by dilution. I could see an extra mark or two if this sat around the 52-54% mark. Still quite ok. 82/100

Cambus 31 yo
Elixir Distillers
MacBeth: Act One – The Ghosts
Bottled 2023
650 bottles
46.2% abv

Nose: Lemon meringue pie; French vanilla ice cream; creamy orange sherbet; some sort of kitchen hand soap; shea butter; cold cream; homemade white buns, slightly Maillard Reaction-y; Melon and banana cream. Palate: white chocolate (both the good kind and the cheap sugared mess); Hemp Body Butter from The Body Shop; Vanilla Stoli with ginger; lemon squares, liberally covered in confectioners’ sugar. Finish: Dry and quite woody. After about 30 seconds…bone dry Thoughts: Very safe. No romance. A ‘friend zone’ whisky, to be sure. 80.5/100

…and now, Cambus in ex-Sherry:

Signatory Vintage Cambus 1991 31 yo
31 yo (1991 -2023)
Refill Oloroso Butt
Cask No: 104229
330 bottles
50.5% abv

Nose: dark vanilla cream; crème brulée; milky earl grey tea; grape and eucalyptus; ginger; toasted marshmallow; freshly washed wooden chopping block; soft lemon tones; pie crust; very roasty, toasty. Palate: very silky; well-made aquavit stirred into vanilla; over-chewed Juicy Fruit gum (and maybe a tick of Bazooka Joe); lemon soap. Finish: Rich and textural, but gets a bit tannic in short order. Thoughts: a little too simple for my tastes, but the sherry brings a neat heft. I find grains and sherry can often be a bit uncomfortable with each other. Not my favorite style, but not inelegant in its own way, either. 84/100

Cambus 1991
Càrn Mòr Celebration of the Cask
27 yo (1991 – 2019)
Sherry Butt Number 61976
515 bottles
60.6% abv

Nose: Rather savoury; faint notes of marmite and mince on rye (or pumpernickel?); mushroomy umami notes; tarragon; old rosemary; potpourri (without rose petals); a tick of grease; and some black olive focaccia bread Palate: Ok… slightly less ‘soupy’ than the nose hinted at; dark jams on deeply toasted dark breads; pea shells; musty old sherry; ‘Smores with a smear of jam, just after having eaten a grilled burger; Finish: Long and rich. Makes me think of a bit of grilled beef with a dab of some sort of pomegranate reduction. Thoughts: The palate saves this one. Barely. Not much in the way of balance here, though. 77/10

(CR)

Psssst…

Heya. Been a bit. There’s been a lot going on here. Lots of moving parts in our lives. Lots of things that have kept me from having the time and desire for this little vanity journal we started all those years back. Most, I will keep to myself, but I’ll be honest: one of the biggest deterrents has been the fact that I work in the world of whisky. I spend 40 hours a week talking whisky. And that’s before time dedicated to the clubs. And the events. And the random conversations with people. And all of that comes before the simpler pleasures like sharing a few drams with friends. That’s a lot of time spent talking about whisky, if you get me.

I’ve also spent the better part of the last couple years in school because I decided one day that I wanted to be a paramedic. As you can imagine, these career choices are somewhat incongruous. Well, they at least require a degree of separation. ‘Malt Medic’ isn’t really a profession, is it? We’ve likely all heard the apocryphal tales of Laphroaig evading the full brunt of prohibition as it was supposedly considered to have ‘medicinal’ properties, however I’ve yet to encounter a protocol that suggests Laphroaig as a treatment option. (Insert tagline: ‘Laphroaig… at least it’s not ivermectin’)

So, for a while, I’ll be splitting my time between proselytizing about ‘The Great Drink’ and sticking needles in people. Both are rad careers in their own right. I’m a lucky guy – and beyond grateful – to be able to voluntarily make a life decision like this so late the game. I love being on ambulance more than you can possibly imagine. And I love the idea of whisky being a part time gig, instead of so all encompassing. Win, win.

But no matter anyway, neither of those things should come between us and our time together now, friends. And to ensure it stays that way, I’ve pulled the ace (or Joker?) from my sleeve and am now laying it on the table. I figured every Batman needs his Robin; every Thelma, her Louise; and every Shrek, his Fiona. Me? I have an Aaron. Cue the A-A-ron references for that generation who prefer their ‘memes’ in the more old school verbal tradition. And why not? We do ‘round here. A-A-ron is coming aboard to share some local perspective (and inimitable flavour with oh-so-many pieces of flair, I’d imagine. There’s a bit of a quirk or two there, as you’ll see).

There won’t be social media updates from me, cause… well… social media. It’s a rather toxic cage we put ourselves in of late, and I don’t like to feed the beast. Aaron may have different intentions. That’s his prerogative and I’m a-ok with it. With the exception of maybe a quick Instagram message to say we’re opening shop again, you won’t hear much from me anywhere but here.

So, in this age of rather shortened attention spans and preference for video as the medium of public discourse, why are we trying to turn over the engine on this snarly old machine? Well, firstly, I firmly believe whisky is in an absolutely unprecedented historical time right now. There are things going on that should be acknowledged, analyzed, and discussed. Much in the world of whisky is very positive right now – in some ways it’s a golden age – but there is a lot going on that is not so great, too. In fact, it seems we’re watching the early stages of some sort of implosion, or at least indrawing. I am keen to engage with an audience on some of these things.

Secondly, I think that some things stand the test of time better than others. The written word remains. Will short internet clips? Maybe. Tough to say. But I’ve always been an old schooler. Not in the ‘afraid of change; we fear technology’ kind of way, but more just someone who has an appreciation for something more rooted in tradition and less… ephemeral, maybe? Fortunately, I know many of you feel the same. Hence the profound global appreciation for all things Springbank (and soon, Kythe).  So, we’re priming the engine and filling the tank to start back down Distillery Road with you all. I don’t know where we’re going to end up, but the road is wide open in front of us, and I’m excited for the trip.

I (we) hope to see you girls and boys in the comments. I’d love to see some of our old commenters extraordinaire come back into the fold, but time is a cruel mistress, and I get they’ve likely largely moved on. That’s ok. This is, after all, just a collection of jottings that serves as my (now our) malt diary.

Fair warning: the site may be a bit chameleonic for a while as we find the new format and esthetic. Feel free to get comfy, but you can leave your shoes on through the construction phase. And finally, sincere apologies for the ads and garbage that permeated the site while I was ‘away.’ Should be fixed now.

With that behind us, please join me in welcoming Aaron, my Boy Wonder and the ogre that completes me, the man in the mad tangled locks and Dali ‘stache, into the fam. We’re gonna have a time, as they say out east.

Next post…  a quick review of a Cambus or two. Then I think Aaron should take center stage and say hi in his first post.

Stay tuned. Thanks for spending time with us.

–  ATW (Curt & Aaron)

Lagavulin 25 y.o. (2016) Review

Dear Lord, I miss the days of distillery visits and scooping up distillery exclusive releases. Lagavulin, in particular, has always had cool bottlings only available to those folks who make the journey to Islay. Or, y’know, those savvy enough to watch the auctions and swallow the inflated prices. That’s not my scene, though; I’d rather just make the jaunt when opportunity affords. Fingers and toes crossed for brighter days ahead and open travel.

This limited edition Lagavulin 25 was bottled for the distillery’s bicentenary celebrations in 2016. Unfortunately, I only had a wee sample to work off here. And it was a one-off taste at that, which means little to no opportunity to revisit. For science, I mean, not gluttony. So…my caveat, for the sake of integrity and keeping things on the up and up: the score could maybe shift a point or so in either direction, but I’m pretty comfortable with how I’ve scored it. Make no mistake, this was a brilliant dram.

I imagine most of you are aware that well-aged Lagavulin doesn’t often hit the market. When it does you better be quick and you better have deep pockets. Sadly, I didn’t manage to nab one of these myself, but if an opportunity arises to trade for one, you can bet I will.

So, needless to say, my jet-setting friends, if anyone is making a wee pilgrimage to the land of peat and smoke – and has an extra slot or two in their luggage – please keep me in mind for Lag ‘distillery only’ bottlings.

200th Anniversary release. Sherry casks. 8,000 bottles. 51.7%

Thanks to Danny Fach for the photo.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Oh, so Lagavulin-esque. Coastal and rocking that band-aid-iness to the nines. Ashy and a little boggy. Quintessential Islay saline sea breeze meets beachside bonfire. Orange, leaning more into mandarins. Lemon seared fish skin. And still on the protein, grilled ham. Antiseptic (again, with those hints of bandaids I always pick up on Lagavulin). Cantaloupe (just past ripe) and grilled pineapple. Citrus flavoured Fisherman’s Friend lozenges. Palate: Ashy…sooooo ashy. Dry cacao, just to accentuate (or exacerbate?) that ashy dryness. The heft of peat is actually surprising given the age. A very mild olive oil. Over-toasted coconut. Lime and orange, tangerine and grapefruit (mid-palate to back end). Finish: Malt steps up a bit. Plum. Maybe some apple skins. 92/100

Macallan The Harmony Collection: Rich Cacao Review

Ah, Macallan. I just want to ask…why?

Oh, yeah. The money.

How ’bout we just move on to some notes. This feels lazy, but it’s just really unremarkable (though, not, to be clear, flawed) whisky.

Sherry-seasoned European and American Oak. 44% abv.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Very clean, actually. Some typical (and kinda boring, I realize) fruitcake. The kind with the marzipan toupee. Gramma’s raisin butter tarts. Some sort of reduced cherry, stripped of the zip, and a bit muddled. A touch of potting soil. A little orange and vanilla too. Cacao? Hmmm…you sure? Palate: Like sucking on a dead cinnamon stick. Somewhat vinous. A pronounced lack of texture (can something be pronounced and lacking?). Very spice forward. Rum raisin. maybe a bit of marmalade. Brown butter and spiced honey. Kinda boozy. Finish: A fairly dead, innocuous finish. 79/100