Monthly Archives: May 2013

BenRiach Horizons 12 y.o. Review

BenRiach Horizons 12 y.o.horizonsmood1

50% abv

Score:  89/100

 

Horizons was the counterpoint to the first edition of BenRiach’s Solstice.  Light…fruity…very vibrant.  While we loved the Solstice for its heavyhanded and brash delivery, this one is a much more restrained affair.  It allows the spirit to shine through a little more purely, and softens the edges of youth through a sweet Oloroso finish.  Being triple-distilled – in and of itself an anomaly outside of Ireland and the Lowlands (and yes, yes…Springbank’s Hazelburn) – also contributes to its exuberance.  Quite a pleasant and remarkable BenRiach well outside the standards of the range. 

This release was limited in number, much like the Solstice, but sat on shelves a wee bit longer than that one.  Not due to any sense of inferiority, I would argue, but simply because the Solstice was such a unique offering, being rather heavily peated and at least partially matured in a port pipe.  Yeah…it made for a slightly bumpy malt, but one I do cherish.

The duality of the Horizons/Solstice expressions provides a rather neat perspective on the capabilities of a distillery that is really coming into its own over the past decade or so.  The whisky is great…the marketing clever…the packaging lovely.  Did I mention the stocks of older malts that figure into the equation as special releases?

Nice young release from a rock solid distillery.

Nose:  Beautifully sweet and wine-rich.  A soft pillowy sherry note that can only be oloroso sweetness.  Bourbon-rich, big Maker’s Mark synthetic cherry notes.  Sour ju-jubes.  Cinnamon buns.  Nice spices and fruits coming together here.  I really like the nose on this one. 

Palate:  Sweet fruit candy.  Delicious deep spice.  Cadbury’s Galaxy bar on arrival brings an element of creaminess and smooth drinkability even at 50%.

I remember being kinda underwhelmed with this one first time ’round.  Liked it a bit more second time around (which was a hefty sampling session).  And still a little more this time.  I know where there are a couple more bottles of this one.  Think I’ll scoop one up before it’s too late.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  www.whiskyintelligence.com

Bowmore Laimrig 15 y.o. Review

Bowmore Laimrig 15 y.o.015

54.4% abv

Score:  91.5/100

 

In late 2012, a few mates and I spent about a week or so on the Hebridean Isle of Islay, non-soberly carousing our way through the distilleries, whisky bars and restaurants.  And…uh…pretty much anywhere else we could drink (legally or otherwise).

Late one eve, just before last call in Bowmore’s legendary whisky bar, Duffies, the manager, David, bought me a dram of something special.  Very special.  So special, in fact, that it ended up being my favorite dram of the trip.  And trust me…there were a lot of good drams on that journey.

The malt David picked for me was a Bowmore Feis Ile 2011 limited release of the Laimrig 15 y.o.  Now…just to clarify…this was not the regular release of Laimrig, but one specific to the annual whisky and music festival on Islay, Feis Ile.  Sadly…for all my begging, pleading, cajoling and threatening (well…not really the latter), I was unable to procure a bottle of this.  It apparently sold out within hours of release, so my chances of scoring one weren’t good, but you can’t blame me for trying.  I’ll now shamelessly use this forum to ask again…if anyone has a bottle they’ll part with, please drop me a line.

The release we’re reviewing here is not that particular one, but is still a helluva dram.  Big and rich fruits meet machinery-esque flinty and industrial notes meet the smoke and brine we’d expect from Bowmore.  This is a return to old school Bowmore.  We’re veering away from the florals of recent years and moving back into the fruit-rich sherries that made for magical releases from this distillery through the 60s and 70s.  Yum.

There’s a lot going on with this whisky…and that’s a good thing.  I love it when I can sink into a dram for an hour or so and just…escape.  I think I could pick flavor threads out of this for hours.

Nose:  Chocolate covered cherries.  Nice jammy fruits.  Tobacco, leather and shoe polish.  Lightly smoked pork.  Flinty and oily.  Some coal and peat smoke.  Smells like evening walks on chilly nights on Islay…smoke lingering in the oceanic air.  Some rubber.  Raisin and eucalyptus.

Palate:  Plum and grape juice.  Again…rubber.  Smoke.  Slightly tarry.  Salty.  A little bit of pomegranate.  Cough drops/throat lozenges.  Slightly pithy.  Very, very drinkable.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Caol Ila 22 y.o. A.D. Rattray Review

Caol Ila 22 y.o. A.D. Rattray

57.7% abv

Score:  92.5/100

 

Caol Ila, by nature, is a fairly delicate spirit.  To those that have been around the block a time or two, this may seem almost counterintuitive.  To those that have been around the block more than just a couple of times, you likely know exactly what I mean by ‘delicate’.

So how does a whisky that peats its malt to about 30ppm (maybe a little higher?), much like its sister distillery Lagavulin, retain a ‘delicate’ character?  Really not sure, to be honest, but it is true that despite all of the billows of smoke and peaty underpinnings, the whisky somehow manages to exhibit a rather surprisingly light and brittle citrus character.

Again somewhat contrary to what most might expect in a ‘delicate’ malt, Caol Ila is one of the more oily-bodied drams you’re likely to encounter.  I think it is this latter characteristic that allows the spirit to be so malleable in its various releases.  Independent bottlings, in particular, are very subject to enormous variation.  Most, of course, also boast high enough alcohol content to not require chill-filtration, allowing the fats and oils to remain.  Flavor coagulates, then clings to all nooks, crooks and crannies of the mouth.  When you have a spirit that retains viscous pockets of flavor in this manner, you’re bound to have an end product that can adapt to many a nuance and deliver it in strength and confidence.

This 22 year old Caol Ila is from a barrel that was selected and bottled exclusively for Calgary’s Willow Park Wines And Spirits.  Great cask selection, I should add, as this is one of the best Caol Ila’s I’ve yet tasted.  The flavors herein are absolutely not typical of Caol Ila OBs (original bottlings from the distillery), but are bold, balanced and beautiful.  I love this whisky.

Nose:  Wow what a nose.  Lovely tightrope walk between white fruits and aged mellow peat.  Some eucalyptus and a little pepper.  Smoke and nice rich chocolate.  Some nice baking spices too.  Somehow still mellow and showing very restrained peat.

Palate:  Love the way the sweet and tangy notes arrive and spread across the tongue.  Smooth and a little waxy.  Chocolatey and fruity.  Some orange-y notes.  Sweettarts candies.  Oak at just the right age.  Delicious and holding the perfect linger.  Typical Islay green apple ebb and fruit skins on the back end of this one.

Go see Dave Michiels down at Calgary’s Willow Park Wines And Spirits for this one before it’s gone.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Pat

All Things Whisky Downtime

Greetings, friends.

Apologies for yesterday’s (and maybe, depending on where you live, this morning’s) downtime.  Some sort of server issues.  I think we’re back up and running just fine now.

Coming days will have many, many more reviews.

Just a little teaser of some of those to come: 

  • The new Macallan 1824 Series
  • Some older Glenglassaugh
  • A few from the Dalmore range (including the 40 y.o.)
  • A few from Glengoyne
  • Some lovely, lovely whiskies from Asia
  • A couple more Port Ellen and Brora releases
  • …and don’t worry…there’s plenty more than just those ones in the wings.

Until next dram…

Slainte!

 

Isle Of Jura Boutique Barrels 1999 Review

Isle Of Jura Boutique Barrels 1999009

55% abv

Score:  87/100

 

Mmmm.  Jura takes on Islay.  Not in terms of heft, but profile.  This is a malt that bears all the hallmarks of the peated beasts from Islay, but also doesn’t quite wedge itself into any one particular distillery’s mold.  It has a hint of that tangy Ardbeg citric note…a fair lot of the farminess so redolent in many of the Bruichladdich peat monsters…an elegance typified by the slightly more advanced aging Lagavulin uses to great effect…and the iodine medicinal edge of a Laphroaig.  Neato.  We like.

Having said all of that…this most closely reminds me of some sherried Caol Ila indies I’ve tried.  All of which would have likley been peated to Diageo’s usual Lag/CI specs of 30-35 ppm, I believe.  According to the bottle, this sits squarely in that phenolic range.

This is a young whisky, for all intents and purposes (11 years, I believe?), but that’s a good thing.  When you want to taste the true might of peat smoke, you want it young.  Peat is exceedingly sexy as it ages, but loses its pungency.  For those with a nose for the billows of hellfire and ash…this will be a malt you want to get your paws on sooner than later.  It fires on all cylinders in these regards.

Though it says ‘Bourbon XU Cask Finish’ I would not be at all surprised to find out there are some sherried casks in here before it gets that ‘finish’ they refer to.  There is a sweetness here that is not completely defined by the vanilla-heavy and spicy bourbon influence.  It’s more of a deep rich dried fruit sweetness.

An extra point or two for uniqueness.  One or two off for a slight topheavyness.  Should be a wash, but ultimately leaves us with a fairly high scoring Jura release.  I like this one.  Quite a lot.  Strong competing notes…but it works.  Harmony through dissonance.

Nose:  Peat and smoke.  A little cola.  Lemon and orange juices.  Some dark figgy fruits and a lot of hefty spice, pepper especially.  Kinda cheese-y (sharp cheddar and Parmesan Regiano).  Mild burnt notes…maybe rubber.  Tarry and iodine-rich.  Very barnyard and farmy.

Palate:  Of course the peat and smoke are first.  Sharp cheeses again.  Smoke.  Weedy and floral.  Nice finish.  Long and very vibrant.  Shines all the way through.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Isle Of Jura Boutique Barrels 1993 Review

Isle Of Jura Boutique Barrels 1993014

54% abv

Score:  89/100

 

Jura Vintage ’93.  Bottle says Sherry JI Cask Finish.  If anyone can share what the JI means…please do.

I have to confess right up front here.  I did read Serge’s of this whisky over at his site Whisky Fun.  Occasionally the power of suggestion can be overwhelming, and we find ourselves being subconsciously led without even really knowing what we’re following, let alone why.

Where I’m going with this one is…

Serge mentions raspberries, and I simply can’t wrap my head (or nose) around this one without being drawn back to that note.  It’s a very unique nuance, and incredibly defining in this whisky.  Not only that…it’s really quite lovely.  Kinda makes me marvel this isn’t a Speyside malt from one of the sherry heavyhitters.  Either way…I could drink this frequently.  Very frequently.

Big, big, big sweet Oloroso is stamped all over this one.  The effects of this sort of maturation or finishing on malts are often irresistable to me.  From the nose to the palate, these whiskies leave me salivating.  Other sherries work, of course, but Oloroso and single malt were meant to be together.  Bonnie and Clyde…Mickey and Mallory…Sid and Nancy.  That sort of story.  Each walked their own path through this world, but when they finally came together…nothing was the same afterwards.

Nose:   Sweet honeyed florals and a touch of dunnage.  Jammy notes.  Raspberry, by the buckets.  Quite some fresh fruit here.  Freshly ground dark roast.  Hay…like following the swather on the farm.  Match (but not sulphur), and maybe even a faint waft of smoke.

Palate:  Juicy, but slowly dries along the back sides of the tongue, like arid ground swallowing rain.  A lot of honey, and quite some spicy bourbon-ish notes.  Oak and barley follows all in a rather dry finale.  A little too hard a thump on the landing here.  Takes us into a dry herbal territory, not far off the finish of somethign like an anCnoc.  Would prefer a more refined ebb and fade, but beggars can’t be chosers.  This is a really good dram.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Isle Of Jura Mountain Of The Sound Review

Isle Of Jura Mountain Of The Sound085 (2)

46% abv

Score:  84/100

 

Hmmm…Cabernet Sauvignon wine finished single malts.  Not sure how to weigh in here in a politically correct manner, so let’s not even try.  These two libations, while often delicious in their own rights, are not good bedfellows.  There may be a correct balance to be struck between them, but in the few instances I’ve tried whiskies finished (matured?) in this manner the distillers have missed the mark.  Hate to generalize, but at this point I’m gonna go on record and say it really doesn’t work.

Having said that…I went into this whisky rather blindly.  Hadn’t read a label…seen a proper picture…or heard anything about the age/finish/strength/what have you.  I knew it was Jura, and one of three releases in the ‘Paps’ collection.  That’s really about it.

The paps, if you’re not fully aware, are the three peeks on Jura right near the Sound of Islay.  You can stare down their rather imposing physiques from the Northeast side of Islay, preferably with a dram of Caol Ila or Bunnahabhain in hand.  Trust me…I’ve done so a couple of times now.  ‘Paps’ is quite literally a reference to what you’d think it is.  Boobies.  Yep.  You’re smiling now, ain’tcha?

So…to recap:  limited release Jura…15 years old…finished in ex-Cabernet Sauvignon barrels.  I have to admit that what we ultimately end up with is not a bad whisky, it is simply outside my favored profiles (of which I have many).  Pick this one up (and the other two) for the story…for a neat range tasting…for a quirky offshoot from the Jura range, but do come in with eyes open that this is not typical of the distillery.

By the way…full disclosure:  I have not tried the other two in the series.  I’ve tasted this against other Juras, but not the Mountain Of Gold or The Sacred Mountain.

Found this on the Jura Info site:  “There has been many a dram fuelled discussion about the witch of Jura causing the deep glacial scar that runs down one fell.  And many debate whether it’s true that the Paps are the burial chambers of giant Norse warriors.”

Cool shit, huh?

Nose:  Oddly enough…buttery.  Fruity (yes…quite some grapes…and pepper!).  Salty tang.  Very vaguely, distantly, minutely, just hintingly lightly sweaty (but NOT in a bad way!).  More pepper and a bit of very fresh black tea.  Vanilla.  Gingerbread.

Palate:  Wine-ish.  Maybe some peat.  Can’t quite put my finger on it, but reminds me of another whisky I’ve tasted in the last couple of years.  Most probably a Bruichladdich of some sort.  Quite drying.  Puckers me a fair bit.  Also somewhat bitter, but mellows after some time.  In all honesty, that mellowing takes a fair bit of time.  Denouement into sugar cookies and fruit.  Very nice back end.  Again…salty, then into plum skins.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Isle Of Jura Superstition Review

Isle Of Jura Superstitiontoday 024

43% abv

Score:  83.5/100

 

This is sort of the ‘moderately peated’ Jura in the range.  The packaging says ‘lightly peated’, but I can’t help but wonder…is that simply based on acknowledging some of the ridiculous acrobatics of a few of the Islay heavyweights in recent years?  Not sure, but I believe this whisky has a legitimate claim to step up and declare itself a wee bit beefier than it’s letting on.  Hey…let’s face it…peat sells.  Ask Ardbeg.

Superstition is apparently a vatting of fiery young peated malt and some slightly older (though I’d be surprised if older than 12 or so) standard Jura.  Could be.  If so, it certainly integrates the two styles well.  I had assumed it was just a lid-level peating of the everyday Jura malt.

I’ve said it before, and will do so here again….these sort of entry level positioned Jura releases would benefit from bottling at a slightly higher abv.  Just seems a tad weak-ish when it comes to delivery.  Jura is still a wild, rugged and untamed island.  Let’s see some of that primeval might bottled in these releases, with which the distillery likes to play to some of the island’s lore.  (Do some research on Jura.  Neat stuff there and around).

If you dig this whisky, I would suggest taking the leap of faith and grabbing a bottle of Jura’s ‘profoundly peated’ Prophecy (their marketing, not my adjective prowess).  It’s most definitely a phenolic heavyweight, but not only the next logical step in the range, but also a damn fine dram in it’s own right.

Nose:  Malt-heavy and quite organic.  Some feinty new make notes still detectable, but that’s just the whisky showing its scrappiness, and shouldn’t much detract.  A mate said this was a peated version of the Origin (well…my words, his sentiments).  I see where he’s coming from, as some of the fruit melange and honey come through here, with a bit of a spicy and nutty character.  It does have a slightly old school vibe too.  I’d almost (I say ‘almost’…don’t crucify me) peg this as a w&M blend.

Palate:  Slightly off-kilter (but no more so than many of the rather charming oddballs that come out of Bruichladdich), though fruity and pleasant.  Somewhat slightly grassy.  Some of those young feisty feint notes here as well.  Not quite as good as the nose, but quite drinkable with a lot of individual character.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Isle Of Jura Boutique Barrels 1996 Review

Isle Of Jura Boutique Barrels 1996086

56.5% abv

Score:  90/100

 

Yes!  Here we go.  A Jura to seriously build a long-lasting relationship to the distillery with.

Jura and I never really cozied up together at first.  I found ‘er to be a little snarky and unpleasant.  She probably found me somewhat aloof and stand-offish…maybe even snobby.

We’re working on it though, and day by day (ahem…dram by dram) putting our differences behind us.  Let’s not call it love yet, but we’re certainly ‘in like’.  A very pleasant experience with a 25 year old Jura while touring Islay a few months back helped.  A recent bout of make-up sex with the 10 y.o. Origin moved us closer still.  And finally…a revisiting of the heavily peated Prophecy (of which I am a fan) brought me to the point of being ready to sit down and work things out.

This 1996 Boutique Barrels expression was one eighth of a recent Jura tasting I and a mate did.  It was a top three finisher of the eve.  Being as I believe this one is still relatively accessible on the open market, it seemed a great time to share a few thoughts on what is a rather impressive outing from Jura.

This range of Jura releases is exciting in that it is taking the distillery away from the generally low strength standard releases they are more famously known for, and throwing them up against the heavyweights out there already acquiescing to discerning consumer demand for stronger, better and craft presentation.  Not only are they now playing along…they’re viable and earning accolades.  Rightfully so.

Good whisky.  Good presentation.

Nose:  Slightly synthetic sweetness, but very pleasant.  VERY pleasant.  Some peach and other fruits.  York mint patties.  Nice spices…cinnamon, nutmeg.  Not far off some of those Amrut profile zestynotes.  Some rising bread dough.  Glue/putty/fluor paste.  Stewed tomato.  Very cool…very singular nose.

Palate:  Quite some peach again.  Pepper.  A lot of sweet and spicy vanilla notes.  Fresh vanilla pod.  Stays juicy through full development.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Isle Of Jura 10 y.o. Origin Review

Isle Of Jura 10 y.o. Origin

40% abv

Score:  84.5/100

 

Oh my.  What the heck has Jura done?  A few years back I scored Jura 10 in the low 70s.  Fast forward a year or two, and a revisit showed some marked improvement.  Less heavy-handed on the nutty, malty, oakiness.  A little bigger on sweetness and balance.  Think I had it up around 79 points.  Now…yet another couple years on…here I sit, enjoying a nice dish of crow.  After all the less than stellar things I’ve said about this dram in the past, I have to switch allegiances and admit that it is now at a standard where I would unequivocably recommend on to others.

Yes, of course it is still an entry level malt, but it really is a tasty one.  From failing grades to flying colors, in other words.  Not sure what they’ve done, but my immediate thoughts are a tweak to the spirit cut itself and better wood management.

Much like some of the other malts from the Whyte and Mackay portfolio, this one suffers from too little horsepower.  In this day and age of fierce competition and a seemingly never ending whisky boom, 40% seems like an archaic stance.  Other distilleries have taken note.  Time for Jura to embrace the new minimum standard; 46%…NCF…nae color.  I’m not a stickler over color, but the first two…yes, please.

Either way…we like.  We are now fans.

To me, in earlier incarnations, this malt always seemed over-oaked, yet not mature.  Almost counter-intuitive.  Nice to see the wood being held in check and a nice balance found.  Well done, Diurachs.  A ‘most improved’, for sure.

Nose:  Malty and salty.  Caramel and toffee notes.  Something akin to a young-ish Bunnahabhain.  Honey and orange.  Still some rather youthful (and kinda feinty) notes, but this is, relatively speaking, a young malt.  Candy fruitiness.  Thick veins of vanilla.  Home made playdough (think salty dough).

Palate:  Nutty.  Plastic and waxy.  Slightly drying with a peppery nip.  Some fruitiness, but indistinguishable really.  Imagine a fruit cocktail in syrup thrown in the blender to become a homogenous…BUT NICE…fruit puree.  What’s in it?  Dunno.  Do I like?  You bet.  Grapefruit pith at the end.  Very slightly drying.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt