Monthly Archives: March 2012

Compass Box Peat Monster Review

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46% abv

Score:  90/100

 

Hmmm.  Wow.  Something seems a little odd here.  I first had a go at Compass Box’s The Peat Monster last year at an event hosted by John Glaser (the man behind the curtain).  I remember thinking that this was a delicious dram, if somewhat…misleading.  I expected a solid kick in the stuff with this one, a la Octomore or Supernova.  C’mon…with a name like ‘The Peat Monster’, wouldn’t you expect the same?

From what I can gather (and I hope to clarify in the near future…hang tight for updates), this was originally composed primarily of Caol Ila and Ardmore.  This would explain my initial reaction.  HOWEVER…scuttlebutt says, there is now Laphroaig in the mix.  Aha…it all comes clear.  Indeed this is much beefier than I recall (and my old notes attest).  The nose is all Caol Ila.  The palate is all Laphroaig.  Simply astounding.

Basically…the delicate intensity that so characterizes and defines Caol Ila is given a souped up engine under the hood.  Peat, smoke and brine meet citrus zest, ash and pepper.  Lovely.  This gets a hefty boost across the tastebuds if you can imagine the aforesaid complimented by that raw Laphroaig earthiness.  Sharp apple skins at the tale end of the finish.

Now this is certainly deserving of the title Peat Monster.  A very sexy whisky.

For those unfamiliar with John Glaser’s Compass Box enterprise, do yourself a favor…nab a bottle of this, The Spice Tree, Hedonism or Asyla.  The more time I spend with this lineup, the more I dig ‘em.  Mr. Glaser is an alchemist.  His approach is unique and uncompromising.  I like that.   I can hardly wait to see what else he has up his sleeve.

Non-chill-filtered, non-colored and 46% abv.  Solid.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Pat at www.standstillphotography.ca

Glenmorangie Original Review

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Glenmorangie Original

40% abv

Score:  87/100

 

Glenmorangie is a Highland distillery situated in Tain.  For some interesting reading, do some research on the 16 men of Tain.  I can’t do all of your homework here, so go have some fun.  Think Highlander.  Anyway…the distillery boasts the tallest stills in Scotland.  If you are not too familiar with stills (either having read the articles here on Liquorature or elsewhere), let me explain what this means.  As the spirit condenses in the stills it travels up and out the lyne arm.  The extra height in Glenmorangie’s stills ensures that much of the distillate runs back down before exiting the lyne arm.  This is known as reflux, and means that said spirit will benefit from longer distillation, giving us a more pure spirit.

Generally this means that the end product will be lighter and smoother.  This is most certainly the case with Glenmorangie.

Historically this whisky has often been considered as an entry level malt.  Though I understand why it is a great gateway, the negative connotations associated with this are unfair and unwarranted.  The Glenmorangie Original is my ’house’ bottle at the moment.  One I find myself going back to often, and consequently have just opened my second bottle of the year.

This is truly an easy drinking whisky.  It is a beautifully balanced dram that is complimentary to any situation and any drinker.  Great for breaking in the novice or for those with a somewhat more refined palate.  I find I most enjoy this early in the evening or before dinner.  There is no specific note that leaps out as a dominant flavor, but hints of fruit, oak and mild spice vie for the senses, both nose and taste.  It is creamy and syrupy across the tongue, with a thin to medium body.  It is full of sweetness and warmth which make up for any lack of density.

There is a subtleness here that belies the depth of this whisky.  Spend some time with it.  I find dissection of this one to be a little difficult to be honest.  Enjoy it as the sum of its parts.  We don’t always need to know how the motor works to enjoy the ride.

My harshest criticism would be that the finish here doesn’t linger as long as I would hope for, but I suppose that means one need sip a little more frequently .  There is a bit of heat that comes along towards the latter part of development, but when it fades…it’s gone.

I should note that this is the 10 y.o.  It has since been re-branded as ‘Original’.

 

A final note from the reviewer:

Please, folks…if you take anything form this site, these whisky reviews or any of my thoughts or opinions here…let it be this:

Let your nose and palate guide you.  Do not be fooled by packaging, marketing, age, abv, or anything other than what your senses tell you.

I have conceded many time that I have a preference for cask strength whiskies which are neither colored nor chill-filtered.  These are personal preferences, but in no way stop me from enjoying a great whisky that doesn’t fit this profile.

There are countless whiskies on the market that fit into the branded mold.  They are bottled around 40-43%, tend to have E150a coloring added, and are chill-filtered to ensure clarity and consistency.  This allows for simplicity in marketing and a level of consistency otherwise lacking.

Do not EVER discount these whiskies without trying them.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Pat at www.standstillphotography.ca

Caol Ila 12 y.o. Review

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Caol Ila 12 y.o.

Caol Ila 12 y.o.

43% abv

Score:  88/100

 

This whisky is a showstopper.  It has truly left me struggling for a proper review.  In some senses it is a typical Islay whisky…big, bold, peaty and full of that big seaside salt and brine we’re used to.  In other ways it is much different.  It comes across almost like a well-behaved, slightly mellowed, older brother to the more obnoxious big three Islay siblings (Ardbeg, Lagavulin, Laphroaig).

The more I look into blended whiskies, attend tastings and read reviews, the more I’m noticing the Caol Ila name cropping up.  It seems to be a blender’s staple in providing a little peat to many bottlings.  Caol Ila is apparently the single largest distillery on Islay, and with its whiskies having a certain softness lacking in some of the other big peats, it is simple logic as to why it would be a blender’s choice.  …Of course the absolute top notch quality may have something to do with that as well, no?

On the nose…certainly peat…smoke…sea side salt and freshness…some fruit…a little spice.  It reminds me of campfires by the water’s edge.  Like most ‘peatheads’, I find myself sticking my nose in the glass between sips.  It is actually quite a light and fresh smell.

The arrival doesn’t overpower with smoke.  Instead it envelops you and then develops into a nice marriage of flavors.  The smokiness is almost like a hazy curtain, slightly masking the other notes.  Occasionally you’ll be able to pick out something through it, such as hints of grass or sea salt.  It also reminds me of a sauvignon blanc, as it has all of the same light herbal, grassy notes and refreshing character.  The finish is long and leaves you with a bit of oak and peat as final flavors.

This 12 y.o. has a rather nice mouthfeel.  A little thin for my liking  perhaps, but pleasant nonetheless.  Our favorite liquor store (Willow Park) has the cask strength version available as well for an additional $30 or so.  I will certainly try that, as I anticipate a little more viscosity and that wonderful ‘coat-your-mouth’ feel.  I also imagine (or hope) it will have a bit more of that raw edge often found in the higher abv whiskies, which is a characteristic I also look for.

In trying to not re-invent the wheel here, I will close with the words of our good friend, and all ‘round whisky aficionado, Ralfy, who described it as having a “delicate intensity”.  I couldn’t have possibly said it better.

Absolutely stunning.

         

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Image:  Pat at www.standstillphotography.ca

Changing The Face Of All Things Whisky

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Greetings, friends! 

Just a quick note.

ATW will be going through a bit of a facelift in the coming weeks.  We (hopefully) learn from our mistakes, and boy, did I make a few in the setup of this site.  Time to right the ship a bit.

Chances are good there will be a bit of trial and error along the way, so patience is appreciated.  Any comments are not only welcome, but sincerely hoped for.  This site serves two purposes.  1)  To allow me an outlet for some of my whisky nerdery, and 2)  To share what knowledge I (and some great friends) have.  In effect…this site ain’t just for me.  If there’s something you’d like to see on ATW…drop a line.

Thanks, all.

Maker’s Mark 46 Review

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Maker’s Mark 46 

47% abv

Score:  87.5/100

 

The standard Maker’s Mark charmed the pants off me. That is saying something, as for the most part, I am not the biggest fan of bourbon. I likes it just fine, but am led far more often to Scottish fare. Something about this Kentucky staple struck just the right chord in my heart however. Having said that…you can imagine how the announcement of Maker’s 46 had me chomping at the bit in anticipation.

Taking a page from the playbook of John Glaser, the folks at Maker’s decided a little fresh wood added at the right stage of maturation would be just the ticket to open the floodgates of innovative enlightenment. Bourbon regulation, though tightly controlled, is obviously not quite as bound by the fiercely conservative traditions that govern Scotch production, as I have heard nothing about MM having the fights that Glaser did when he released the Spice Tree. All the better for those of us salivating in anticipation.

After the standard period of maturation (6-7 ½ years for MM) 10 seared wooden staves of French oak are inserted into barrels of Maker’s and the spirit is re-racked to allow the new wood and spirit to get to know one another for a few months. These oak staves are there to add a caramelized sugar depth.

Though this was obviously a labor of trial and error (the ‘46’ refers to the batch experiment that was finally deemed a success), the efforts paid dividends.

The nose now is much mellowed and less fruit heavy than the standard Maker’s. And yes…those rich caramel flavors do rest heavily atop the sweet spicy nose that normally characterizes this bourbon. Slightly waxy and heavy on the vanillins, this one sorta surprises with a healthy dollop of maple. Fruity, but less cherry than I can normally pick up from this distillery. Dusty corn, of course, the hallmark of bourbon and mild nutmeg fill in the gaps.

Spiced corn and youthful fruit are the first to cling to a taste bud on tasting. The 46 fades into a throbbing popcorn and fruit-tinged finish, but the oak holds on a little too long.

Quite a snazzy little variant on the Maker’s Mark standard. Better? Not certain. Perhaps a touch. More mature and mellow anyway. Even a few more months in wood in the Kentucky clime allows for a more mature spirit.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Pat at www.standstillphotography.ca

Ardbeg Corryvreckan Review

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Ardbeg Corryvreckan084

57.1% abv

Score:  92.5/100

 

In a little over two months I’ll be wending my way through the rocky coastlines and esteemed distilleries of Islay.  Like any traveler, I have preconceived notions in my head as to what I’ll see and what I’ll experience.  Also, like any traveler, I know I shouldn’t let my mind do this.  There is no better way to spoil a beautiful trip than with preconceived notions not met.  One of the things I most want to do while on this tiny island is spend my evenings walking the oceanside…bottle in hand…and set down on the rocks or shore to sip whisky and meet the ocean head on.

I can’t imagine a better way to realize this than with a bottle of Ardbeg in hand.  The sun sets over our lone gunslinger (or keyboard jockey) as he forlornly stares the sky down and greets the evening.  Or…y’know…something like that.

I have actually spent a considerable amount of time debating which whisky would most capture the essence of Islay for me.  That is the bottle I want to buy on night one.  Something to nurse through the week.  A big bottle of smoke and peat, briny and massive.  Something as big and bold as the ocean itself.  I think I’ve finally figured it out.

Ardbeg Corryvreckan.

There is something about Ardbeg that resonates with me.  Something deep and dark and mysterious.  The packaging hints at it.  The whisky delivers it.

Corryvreckan is named after the famous whirlpool in Scotland, and the legend that accompanies it.  It is a tale of a brave Scandinavian prince named Breacan, who seeks the hand of a Princess of Jura, the daughter of the Lord of the Isles.  The Lord consents but challenges him, saying that Breacan must show his courage and skill by anchoring his ship for three days and nights in the whirlpool of Corryvreckan.  Breacan, after consulting with the locals, chooses his three ropes.  One rope of wool, one rope of hemp and one rope made from hair of maidens of ‘spotless fame’.  On the first night the woolen rope breaks.  On the second night it is the rope of hemp that gives way.  Finally on the third night the last rope breaks as well.  The story goes that perhaps one of the maidens, whose hair was used to make the rope, was not quite as ‘spotless’ as made out to be.  Alas poor Breacan paid the price for this maiden’s lack of chastity.  I have heard two tales of Breacan’s final resting place.  In one Breacan is said to now lie in the lair of the hag goddess of winter, Cailleach Bheur, beneath Corryvreckan.  In the other Breacan was said to have been dragged ashore by his faithful hound and carried to a cave.  This cave, known fittingly as Breacan’s cave, was excavated years ago, and interestingly…a stone coffin was found.

You pick the ending you like best.

Enough of the background.  Hope I’ve painted enough of a picture for you.  On to the whisky…

Corryvreckan, quite simply, is another Ardbeg masterpiece.  Can this distillery do no wrong?   Big notes of smoke and peat are complimented with citrus zest and salt.  The briny edge is almost burn-your-nose sharp…but in a good way.  I dare you to not be swept away with images of the windswept Scottish coast.  There is a hint of smoked fish and oak.  Black pepper and a burnt coffee and sugar edge.  Spicy…you bet.  You’ll get a bit of fruit too.  Mostly in the finish that lingers with that dry tangy green bite that seems to follow most peated whiskies.

It is oily and thick.  Beautifully so, and deliciously mouth-coating.  The finish echoes on into infinity.  Let this be the whisky that closes your night of dramming.  No other whisky out there could possibly follow this.  Well…maybe the Uigeadail.

         

Reviewed by:  Curt

Photo:  Curt

Black Bowmore Review

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Black Bowmorebarry's place pics 129

1964       42 y.o.

40.5% abv

827 bottles

Score:  97/100

 

Oh boy.  One of the worst whisky reviews I have ever encountered read like an orgasm.  There was simply nothing to it but some oohs and ahhhs and a half dozen scattered words referring to peat.  I can understand being rendered speechless by nearing perfection, but c’mon.  The sentiment…certainly.  In a published review?  Bah!  The Black Bowmore was one of the few times where I have had to sit back and simply be wow’d.

This is as near to a flawless whisky as I have ever encountered.  Not only so, but it is also the most spectacularly unique one as well.  This edition (yes…there were three others) was a marriage of 5 casks, matured in Oloroso sherry wood, matured for 42 years and bottled just before the breaking point.  (Anything less than 40% is no longer eligible to be bottled as Scotch whisky).

What sits in my glass would not be possible without a little magic.

There is a place in Bowmore referred to as Vault Number 1.  It sits below sea level, where the wash of the loch and the moods of the ocean play out against its hallowed walls.  It is a Mecca where whisky lovers dream of venturing, though only a favored few ever truly experience the reality of what exists down here.  This warehouse is indeed a place of magic.  A place where something inexplicable happens to the silent casks slumbering within.  These barrels take on flavor nuances not found elsewhere.

Enough waxing poetic.  This is whisky, after all.

Black Bowmore is probably the greatest whisky nose I have ever encountered.  It is deeper than deep and richer than rich.  With enough time and dedication I can’t imagine a fruit you couldn’t sniff out of this one.  As expected, there is a wellspring of sherried fruitcake notes (think figs and spice, burnt toffee and cocoa bean), but it is not in these notes that the whisky is defined; it is in the absolutely overwhelming array of exotic and tropical  fruits on display.  Peach and orange and grapefruit.  Pineapple and a hint of coconut.  Black cherry in syrup.  Hints of mildest anise and gingerbread…salt and smoke…oily leather.  Veins of oak throughout and a dark and earthy mystique.  Stunning.  Incomparable.

The palate is creamy and comfortable.  Layer upon layer of tropical fruits sit right up front.  First thoughts are of Five Alive.  Maybe grapefruit…mango…apricot.  As it develops, spiced apple and cigar tobacco (or walk-in humidor).  And as it fades…a very pleasant bitter fruitiness.  The finish is shimmeringly beautiful all the way through.  Can’t help but wish it would never end.  Kind of like watching Cinderella run away as the clock strikes midnight…and knowing that you are already in love with her.

To put it succinctly, this is quite simply the greatest whisky I have ever tasted.  And quite rightly…has earned the highest mark I have ever awarded.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt

Ardbeg Alligator – Review

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Ardbeg Alligator 048

51.2% abv

Score:  91/100

 

Ok.  To those who have been waiting…apologies.  About time I finally got ’round to this one.

I’m making a concerted effort of late to make these reviews a wee bit more concise.  I’m not out to write the great American (Canadian?) novel, but simply to share some whisky thoughts with you.  A little concision may be appreciated by those out there simply looking to decide to whom they should devote their loyalties (and dollars).

The answer once again (and no surprise to constant readers) is, of course, Ardbeg.

The folks at Ardbeg have such a strong spirit (I speak in terms of quality here) to start with that it seems it would be difficult for them not to release a great whisky.  I simply can’t even pretend to hide my bias.  Ardbeg are consistently making the best malt on the market.

I’m gonna dive in to tasting notes in a moment, avoiding all terrible puns related to the naming of this expression (which I wish some other reviewers had done as well), but I would like to add a quick note.  If you’re looking for something light years away from recent Ardbeg offerings…you’re liable to be disappointed.  If on the other hand you just want another great dram from the green bottle…well…right place, right time.

The nose on the Alligator is bold.  Not heavy-handed, but strong and assured.  Soot and ash.  Salty with a refined peppery character (think aged Talisker).  Licorice.  Chilis and vinegary BBQ sauce.  Orange and cherry bring the fruit component.  Finally, a hint of spearmint and a heaping helping of vanilla.

The palate delivers orange and chocolate.  Ever had chocolate cake with rock salt sprinkled on it?  Delicious (and thanks to the Miss who made this for me), but also a very fitting comparison.  Peaty finish and rich in campfire essence.  Loooooooong and chewy.  You’ll be flicking a tongue at your teeth like you just finished your BBQ.

A few members of the Collective recently sat down to a great Ardbeg vertical tasting (feature to come in the near days).  Out of 8 or 10 expressions sampled, this came in third.  The first was a 1977. The second a Corryvreckan.  Good company, methinks, though the points awarded are a little lower simply because it didn’t have the surprise and ‘wow factor’ that the Corry and Uigeadail did.

This sold out fast locally, and is said to be limited.  If you can find it…don’t hesitate.

 

– Reviewed by:  Curt

– Photo:  Curt